Hawaii

October 2018
Won accommodation deals for a family trip to Hawaii - my first time to the states Read more
  • 3footprints
  • 1countries
  • 13days
  • 13photos
  • 0videos
  • 155kilometers
  • Day 2

    Arriving America, Aloha Waikiki

    October 9, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    After winning accommodation and tours to Hawaii at our jtb Christmas party last year, me and the family are finally starting our kitch American holiday to the 50th state of sun and sand.

    In the race to hit 30 countries by 30 years old, I was very keen to go on this holiday as I've never been to America, and Hawaii seems like a good soft introduction. As we also won this holiday, it's been odd travelling and having little initial interest in the destination and no real plans or expectations on what to see. The first plan was to just relax by the beach and do some shopping. Now I want to see lava and eat a heap of American and Hawaiian food. We have had one full day in Hawaii and it has been a wonderful, extremely cliche but also very surprising experience.

    I've got a little older and have let the theories on cultural studies and anthropology settle from uni, and now have a string of countries travelled to under my belt along with time 'selling' countries in the travel industry. Experiencing a new culture can be compared more to my own and others I've experienced. Like when reading academic texts on cultural studies, the first lesson is to find out where the author is from, because we only ever experience a culture through the lens of our own upbringing. So reader, remember that I am a millennial Aussie of communist roots.

    Japan is always called the 'land of contradictions' or the 'country of old and new'. You can understand why, with their clash of ancient culture which is still so entrenched in their temples, tatami rooms and honorific language. It juxtaposes their hyper modern cities, high tech toilets, bullet trains and vending machines. Most cultures are a juxtaposition in themselves though, it's because cultures are made up of individuals and not everyone follows the same 'rules' as a culture should. A culture can also be very old, so has many different conflicting influences. The only culture that wasn't a contradiction was probably England, which was 100% what I expected it to be like, as grey and grumpy but delightful as you'd expect. Also a contradiction perhaps, but one that I was expecting.

    America is a contradiction. The contradiction of America is what's messing up the world. A country of people whos president has unfathomable power, who's pop culture is insidious, it's weapons kill so many but perhaps it's lie of an achievable 'American dream' kills more, and kills its own people. America has more debt (credit card debt, loan repayments, university costs, ect) than all of the African countries combined, apparently. It has less movement between its socio-economic classes than any other first world country, and yet its people still believe that if you work hard, you can be rich. Their society is a perfect example of how that isn't the case. And yet American culture is exported to the rest of the western world. Would it be a shock to visit the country itself? How much is Australia like America?

    Before coming I was so nervous I would insult someone because I don't naturally think of tipping on a bill. I read articles and have downloaded apps to help. I also assumed that since a waiter has to work so hard for a tip, or in some cases are only paid in tips then the customer service here would be contrived. Their customer service has been impeccable. But not only for people serving you, also for local Americans on the street, they seem so genuinely friendly. When we arrived at the airport we were trying to figure out the best way to get to our hotel. I asked a man near the info booth if there was a shuttle or if taxi was best, and he went on about how wonderful it is that we were in Hawaii and how he hoped we have a good time and we have to see the sunsets. He seemed so genuine I was grinning ear to ear by the end of the conversation. You'd never get a conversation like that with an Aussie. Australia's contradiction is that we are told culturally that we are laid back and are brimming with 'mateship', but in reality we are weary of strangers and quite cold. The Americans I've met in Hawaii have been so happy and friendly they almost seem infantile in it, but you can't help but grin along with them.

    Waikiki is very touristy that there are a few times when the niceness of the Americans and their customer service can lure you into a false sense of security and suddenly you are knee deep into a scam or time-share promo. Like travelling anywhere, you need to keep your wits about you a bit. I had been told that Waikiki was a bit tacky since it's so filled with tourists, but I've found it really beautiful and fun. As an Australian who has visited the Gold Coast, this is nowhere near as tacky as that. The streets are so clean, the shops are high end, the beach is beautiful. No meter maids or puking drunks at night.

    The way money works here is quite confusing and has been one of the biggest adjustments. It really is a 'user pays' society. There is no tax on the items in a shop, so when you get to the front counter you pay more than you calculated in the aisles. This annoys me because I like to count up my change first so I can unload some of my coins, but so far I've been paying in notes and have a small fortune in dimes now. You also tip 15% or tip on the first drink so you get good service for the next one. I've been tipping more than I should so am also going through my dollars a little quicker than expected. There are also parts of the hotel that you pay for additionally. By the pool there are cabana sitting areas. When I went down there with mum most of them were free which seemed strange as they were obviously the best place to sit. I asked at the front counter and they cost you $175usd for 5 hours. There was no sign or anything and for something that cost so much, we are nervous to sit anywhere in case we have just waltzed into a paid area. Also for some bars you have to pay to get in, then have to buy a certain amount once you are in the bar to earn your keep. And you tip on top of that. It really is a money society.

    This is disgustingly apparent in their TV ads. Did you know America has multiple cures for cancer? Seems a bit unfair that these cures haven't spread across the world. What I think they are is an alternative to chemo, which is such a strain on your body and probably costs more than the majority of Americans here can afford with their lack of healthcare that there are these snake oil companies that advertise their alternatives. It makes my heart ache. The ad for the alternative to late stage lung cancer breaks my heart as it's selling point is that you can 'extend your time with your family without feeling sick from chemo'. Yet across the puddle between north America and Central America is Cuba, who has discovered a preventative medicine for lung cancer. Their fear of government, tax run healthcare is killing them in the most devistating way. It isn't choice, it's crooks making money off poor people at the hardest time of their life.

    These ads were broken up by short bursts of fox news (the ad breaks are so often in American TV). I was excited to see the infamous fox news. I didn't think it would anger - or perhaps scare? - me as much as it did. I watched a show called 'the revolution' which is hosted by an English man who has recently moved to this beautiful country America - which is something he continually tells you - and talks about American politics from a slight outsider perspective. He was questioning this democrat Jewish man who was commenting on the supreme court system. Or more, he was trying to comment, because the scum English man kept cutting him off, scoffing at him and yelling over him that he was pushing his 'liberal agenda'. The democrat couldn't have been left wing at all. There is no way anyone liberal would go on this show, he must've been a plant to use as a punching bag to show what the republican ultra conservatives could do to a democrat's opinion. I watched fox news for maybe 20 minutes and it made me feel dirty, scared and I had to push myself to go outside into the Hawaiian night life, scared that there could've been people out there that believe so wholly that Trump and Kavanaugh could be a good choice in leaders.

    I've seen very little pro-Trump propaganda on the street. It took us a full day to find a newspaper, and though this newspaper was only 6 pages long (the rest was sport), the handful of articles were suggestive of being against Trump, in a newspaper 'unbiased' way. We saw a 'dump trump' poster hanging from someone's window. They have joke Trump souvenirs that make fun of his small hands and angry orange face. Besides fox news, the rest of America seem to be riding his presidency as the rest of us are: hesitantly, but with a big box of popcorn, awaiting his impeachment.

    Having said that, I did see a big American truck Ute thing with a bald eagle sticker covering their rear window with 'God bless America' plastered across the back. I guess you don't need to look in your rear view mirror when you have such trust in 'murica!

    Walking down Kuhio Avenue main strip, we passed multiple picket line protests from hotel staff. They were protesting their low wage and how they need a second job to supliment their income, protesting their employer healthcare insurance, and protesting the use of robots, taking over the jobs of the hotel staff. We went and chatted to the protesters, and they were protesting all through the hot day and into the night. Note that striking and picket lines are near impossible in Australia. People working in hospo also can barely get by on a single job, particularly now they don't get the same penalty rates on weekends. Let's not get to the same state as America, this land of the free but off track and impoverished. Though we could learn a lot from their friendliness and openness to talk to strangers.
    Read more

  • Day 2

    Shopping & War - Excess & Extravagence

    October 9, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    What a wonderful mix of gaudiness America is. It's also very genuine, which is the part I'm most drawn to and is it's saving grace.

    Our first day out in Waikiki we got on a shuttle bus, coupons in hand, and went off to Waikele Outlets for some shopping. A couple of years ago I made a new year's resolution that I would not buy anything new that whole year. It was actually remarkably easy, despite the fact I was starting a new career from hospitality to corporate/admin so needed a whole new work wardrobe. I still only shop in op shops and even then have to be in the mood for it. I would be able to count the items I've bought new on one hand, and so pat myself on the back for not feeding into the fashion industry (the 3rd most pollutant industry after coal energy and food), I'm not buying into slave labour, and am not taken too heavily by trends.

    Shopping in Waikele was a treat, and so much fun. Like I said in my last two blogs, the American customer service is so good that it makes shopping so positive. Waikele also offers a coupon book if you sign up before shopping, which gives you a further discount on the already discounted prices. I bought two pairs of Levis and a lined denim jacket, dresses, Adidas runners, and sketchers shoes, all for a tiny cost. I definitely made up for the couple of years not buying new clothes, I'll have to do an op shop dump of my old clothes when I get home!

    To add to the excessiveness of the day we had dinner at Crackin Kitchen, where we ordered three flavours of sauteed seafood and the waiter proceeded to dump the food on a paper-clothed table, and we ate our prawns, crab, mussels and the rest with gloves and a bib. Forget the starving kids in Africa, there are plenty of starving children in the States who have little prospect of ever eating a meal like that, but we were living it up and gorged ourselves in the excess.

    The next day I'd booked us a tour of Pearl Harbor. I was interested it visit, as I've been to war memorials/peace museums in Hiroshima, Nagasaki, Tokyo's Yasukuni shrine and war museum which arguably honours war criminals, and Changi where my great grandfather was held captive by the Japanese until he died on the Thai Burma Railway. I didn't know much about the history of why America entered the second world war, but I believe that them dropping the bombs on Japan was a means of testing their weapons on human bodies, and gave way to the cold war, as Russia was set to 'win' the war. Japan's defeat was days away despite the bombs, but America would have none of that. Of anyone, I think I needed to hear the American side of the story, at the one event besides 9/11 where they were attacked on their own soil despite having such power and causing such destruction across the globe.

    Unfortunately the USS Arizona memorial was closed due to repair work, which was the main section I wanted to see. The museum itself was OK, though it took a little while to get to the point as to why Japan attacked America - due to US sanctions on Japanese oil, and Japan wanting control over the American owned Philippines. I had been told that the museum was very pro-American but very touching, I'm guessing the Arizona would be the most emotional part, and next time I visit Hawaii I'll try to see it and the other sections the tour missed. Otherwise I felt Pearl Harbor was quite an average museum.

    There were a few aspects that struck me in my visit. The fact that the museum cost so much, and you have to pay for each individual section. If you want to go to the Arizona, you need a separate ticket. If you want on the submarine, that's another ticket. For all the attractions and general entry, it will set you back $72usd for an adult. That's an insane amount of money. All the other war memorial museums I've visited have been either free or heavily funded by the government, so you pay a small, couple of dollar fee to get in. It would cost a lot to maintain an area like Pearl Harbor, but given its importance to American history and the tourism it beings in, it feels very wrong to be profiting off that - surely the government could flip the bill for maintenance and staff costs.

    Another thing that I could not get used to was the nationalism there. On our tour was a middle aged American couple wearing red shirts with star spangled accents - the woman a scarf and the man had American flag socks. As we were lining up for our boat trip around the Arizona we had a talk from a war veteran. When he said he had been stationed in Afghanistan, about a third of the audience, in a religious unison, responded with 'thank you for your service'. There is so much to unpack in this. I dont know if I'm particularly thankful for Australian soldiers, which probably reflects more on me than on my country. I feel we are not at a threat from attack from any other country, and if we are it is purely because of our alliance with America. I don't think I'd answer with 'thank you for your service' but with more 'how was your time at war?' 'is the situation getting better?' 'do you agree with this war?'. I feel in America they don't question war at all, and it's like a kudos system depending on where you are stationed - the more dangerous the more respect, but America has bases all across the globe. Everything to do with war in America is glorified, and this is very disturbing. Even in a war museum, this should not be glorified as it was.

    The museum was also not about peace. Peace was mentioned - as it absolutely should be - but the museum was more a mourning of the soldiers who died on the ships and as a 'hoorah' to America. I dont know if I've ever heard the term 'valor' used before, but Pearl Harbor is dripping with that word, along with 'honor'. Hiroshima, where hundreds of thousands of people died in the most horrific way, ends not with a 'good on Japan for overcoming this' but with a picture of a flower growing through the fallout rubble. It ends with a message of peace and rebirth. Nagasaki does an even better job, where it honestly reflects allied soldiers who were in WW2 and who are given video time to justify why the bombing of Hiroshima and Nagasaki was necessary to end the war. Nagasaki's message is 'no more Hiroshima, no more Nagasaki - let Nagasaki be the last city to feel the effects of a nuclear war' . Pearl Harbor ends with a message of nationalism, which will only fuel future wars, as it has done. Changi was surprisingly nationalistic for the ANZACS, but was more a story of the harsh Japanese Imperialism. Singapore was stuck in the middle, and the Anzac were ultimately fighting for their freedom from Japan. Pearl Harbor was far closer to Yadukuni than it was to Changi or the nuclear weapon museums. And Yasukuni is connected to a Shinto shrine that honours war criminals. The thing with Yadukuni is that it remembers every battle the Japanese have fought in - from the domestic warring states period in ancient Japan, to the world wars. The shrine remembers all those who died for Japan, including the soldiers who were later found to be war criminals (I actually took part in a ceremony and was blessed by the shinto monk at this shrine, which was a very mind boggling experience). Yasukuni is a completely one sided museum, and is and should be known as being very nationalistic and an area of contention. There was no chapel that I saw to pray in for the dead at Pearl Harbor, but the place was run by the navy which also leaves a slightly sour taste in its own way. Pearl Harbor should be remembered but should not become a mantra.

    In the gift shop you could buy Pearl Harbor memorial tishirts that had been warn by a soldier in the navy. You could buy flags that had the specific time and year they were flown for Independence Day. At the very back of the shop I found a section of tshirts and tote bags that had paper cranes on them - the Japanese symbol for peace. I bought a tote bag that explained the thousand paper crane folklaw, that if you origami fold one thousand cranes you will have your wish granted. Sadako was a young girl at ground zero when the bomb was dropped on Hiroshima and later contracted leukaemia and died before she completed her thousand cranes. She is the symbol for peace and I suppose of Japanese nationalism in Hiroshima Peace Park. I was not expecting to see it in Pearl Harbor. The main reason I bought it was for the added 'Valor in the Pacific' written underneath.

    America - the land of excesses and extravagance.
    Read more

  • Day 6

    For A Buck

    October 13, 2018 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    Money makes the world go around, but it works a little differently in America. It's a country that has had gold rushes, and that moved away from the gold standard - partially because gold was discovered in Soviet Russia and there was a danger that the Soviets could control the value of the US dollar by controlling the trade of gold from their country. From the point of dropping the gold standard, money became metaphoric, and capitalism went a little rampant with concepts of instrumental value, credit, debt, and the rest of the messy business.

    The first thing you notice about the physical American money is that the dollars are in notes rather than coins as they are in Australia, and also that they have one cent coins. Nothing is rounded up, you pay for every cent that is on the bill. Every cent has value. The coins in Australian and American money does not feel not as metaphorically "valuable" as the notes. I'd very easily put $5 in coins in a homeless man's cup but a note would feel like too much (poor guy). It's strange how the paper the $5 note is written on isn't worth intrinsically as much as what a $1 coin is worth if I melted down the coin, but the $5 has more symbolic value. The same is true in America, but the value is for a $1 note rather than a coin as it is in Australia. A dollar seems more valuable in America than it does in Australia, purely because it's a note.

    A buck is fought over in America. A dollar coin in Australia would almost be handballed around the table; "no, you keep the change, I don't want to fill my wallet with shrapnel". In America, a dollar is the difference between politeness and an insult. If you are ordering a drink from a waiter, you should pay $2 on the first drink then tip $1 for each drink after that. This is to ensure that the waiter knows that your business is worth their while and to ensure they come back to fill up your glass. The tip jars are full of notes, but I want to unload my coins into a tip jar, like at home. Although four quarters have the same value as a dollar note, I feel it's slightly rude to put coins in the tip jar. Maybe that's just me though. If you need to break a note, they will pay you back in a lot of $1 notes, probably in the hope you'd leave some as a tip? It's hard to know, but the amount of $1 notes they give you back as change seems to be trying to make a point.

    I expected American prices to be cheaper than Australia, but when you tip 15-20% off the low bill to get a total it would be about even with Australia. They don't mention that in America the tax on the quoted menu or listed price isn't included, but added to the final bill or at the cashier. So you are meant to tip 15% off an amount you aren't sure off until you receive the final bill. It's left me in a haze, no idea what I'm spending or what to expect when I get to the counter. Japan also doesn't list its tax cost on items until you are at the front counter, but adding a massive tip (massive when compared to Australia or Japan, where tipping is not expected and can be insulting), I feel very poor and quite cheated. After the meal has been paid for, I've probably paid the same as in a fancier Melbourne restaurant, but eaten just a burger handed to me by an ultra-friendly waitress. "I'll be your waitress and will take good care of you today ok?". Their customer service is often impeccable, but is for a tip and if you have stopped eating and drinking it's probably time for you to move on. Money makes the world go around, like they say.

    This leads to my last query of America and its money matters - if the menu and the hotels and the tours and the rest cost the same as Australia, but the minimum wage in America is around $10 lower than in Australia, who the hell is getting that extra money? My office aims to have no more than 53% of our money on wages. If the menu in a restaurant costs around the same as Australia, why are the people here working multiple jobs? What bonuses are the big bosses taking home? How much of the bill goes to the staff wages, and how does a wage work when the waitstaff are getting tips but the dish-pig at the back is getting nothing additional? A day tour today cost $140usd, and we were expected to tip the guide (who wasnt anything special) an additional 15%, so an additional $20pp US. If I'm paying $140, I expect service and would expect the guide to be paid for his job. Why not just absorb the 15% 'tip fee' and if the guide does and exceptional job, chuck him a couple of dollars extra? It's like you are judging everyone on how they serve you (which does make American service exceptional), but it would be quite a slap if you tipped nothing, so the service would have to be something abysmal to not warrant a tip. A tip is expected, it's listed at the bottom of your bill - different rates depending on the quality of the service.

    People have good and bad days, but I believe they should still be paid a living wage for their work and time away from their family. Particularly if they are working in tourist traps with Aussies and Japanese customers who are not all together clear on the tipping protocol.

    This is a real user pays society. The expensive hotels do not offer free water and you have to pay for areas of the hotel - such as the slightly fancier deckchairs or the cabanas. A cabana in our last hotel in Waikiki cost $175usd for 5 hours, that's on top of the near $500 a night the room usually costs. This has also made us nervous to assume anything here, as everything has a price. The bell staff will ask you if they can take your bags to your room while you check in, but if you agree you have to pay a tip. I've found it all a bit exhausting.

    The very fabric of American society lends itself to a society of working poor, and 1% billionaire CEOs. This must be where my money is going, if it's not going on wages, besides the tips. The receipt costs the same as it does in Australia where we pay our staff a living wage and also have a high standard of living, then the difference in cost between Australia and America must be going as bonuses or some kind of tax. Perhaps it's going to the staff in healthcare costs the employer pays instead of a government funded system? I really have no idea how America does America, but it's capitalism in all its grand and gritty finest.
    Read more