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Claire DaviesClaire Davies
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  • Morvenna 2023
    Day 444–445

    St peters canal and bra dor Lakes

    June 19, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Not too much of a lay in today, a fair few miles to do to get across to Cape Breton and the Bra D’or lakes, first we have to navigate the exit through the narrow entrance of the cove down wind through the lobster pots and miles of rope through the next narrow and more pots and head out. Luckily no fog today so we can see the pots and ropes clearly. Once out all the sails up and a fair down wind sail all the way solid 20kt breeze just what the old girl likes. (Morvenna that is). A few gybes and a few fishing boat encounters later we are heading into the Narrowing entrance to St Peter’s lock, our gateway to the inland water of Bra Dor. The lakes are in fact the sea although a bit brackish so the fish within them are quite varied from sea fish to fresh water. After having been through the Crinan and the Caledonian Canal systems this trip the lock in was a bit underwhelming although super nice lock keeper as always, Again we are the only boat. And the 148 foot lock does not noticeably move up or down. Before the other gate is opened and we are ready to move on. ( about 600mm on the day) they ask us to wait while they get in the gator and go 400yds down the canal and open the swing road bridge, 600 metres later we are in the lake and puttering north looking for somewhere to anchor for the night. We see our first boat in a week and we stare at it as if he must be lost. This means we are now in Nova Scotia sailing hot spot. After a bit of wiggling through some channels we pick out a likely spot on the chart secluded and very lake like after our week out in the very exposed east coast. Our an hour buries itself safely in the mud and we look at google earth to see if there is any walking opportunities. There is a natural harbour in the inlet and we dinghy ashore to search out a long circular walk around the headland which will include paddling and scrambling. 2 hour later back at the dinghy ready to head back to the boat for tea. on our walk we saw. Sea eagle, Otter, sandpipers, yellow legs. And many others.
    While sitting with a beer another otter and another sea eagle. Filled by crying coyotes and loons to go fall asleep to. All in all another good day.    Read more

  • Morvenna 2023
    Day 444–445

    Seal Cove

    June 19, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    This is our last anchorage before we enter Bra dor Lakes and enormous inland sea on the next big Canadian Island. We thought we would go super isolated and the guid book suggested this one would fit that bill. If not a bit sketchy to get. In to. A 30 mile sail in good vis 20 plus knots down wind so progress was quick. But that did mean the turn into the nook was going to be 20 plus knots upwind in a tight rocky channel. Which as it turned out had another million lobster pots all over the entrance. As we approached and curved upwind we reduced sail and started weaving through the gauntlet of ropes in the shallows. Putting the engine on was a risk of fowling the prop so we sailed in as far as we could. In between rocks and ropes and strange shallow areas. Sails down and motor the last 400 metres barely making progress against the 25kt breeze. It all goes very quiet as we get under the trees in the entrance to this beutiful cove. No one has been here in a very longtime. We anchor in 3.5 metres and have a cup of tea and pecan pie now the tricky bit is done. Of for an explore after that. More eagles, ospreys, seals etc.
    Very very isolated and very well protected in here . Feeling snug    Read more

  • Morvenna 2023
    Day 443–444

    Port Bickerton

    June 18, 2024 in Canada ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Leaving St Marys River late on the tide meant we had only a few hours before dark and Port Bickerton looked like the most handy hide hole. And a great opportunity to add to my light house photo collection😃. Fog all the way 10 million lobster pots and surprising shallow banks on the entrance to keep us on our toes. The evening stroll before tea and bed was 3km each way to the light house. Where we saw noisy frogs and more of those feeling common Ospreys. We still haven’t seen a pleasure boat in more than 5 days. Even the guide book descriptions are 20 years out of date. My kind of placeRead more

  • Morvenna 2023
    Day 441–443

    Sherbrooke Village

    June 16, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    For no apperent reason were in Sherbrooke. We saw it on the chart, it had appeared to be a good safe anchorage and secondly there was a town for food and re stocking and there was a tourist attraction of a historic village. Nice trip up the river. When we woke in the morning it was quite early for a Sunday and we dinghies ashore and walked in towards town, to do so we had to walk through the historic village. Wow this is a fully functioning frontier town with residents in period costume. When we were there, there were no visitors, so it felt very wierd. I’m guessing the site is about 10 to 15 acres of restored shops and house. And everything works from the waterwheel saw mill to the chair makers and onto glass photographer, Potter and all the things made keep the place running. Totally amazing. Our little foray ashore turns into a full day visit without a dull moment. I thought Clovelly was the most authentic place but this is right there too.
    We have missed the tide to leave and go on a trip up the river in the dinghy.    Read more

  • Morvenna 2023
    Day 441

    St Marys River

    June 16, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    I thought st Mary River deserved a mention its own right. It was 8 miles of river that we needed to be negotiate on the way to Sherborne, which was our planned destination for the night. It is one of Nova Scotia longest navigable rivers, it has a frontier and industrial history. I am sure its qualities are ignored by the local in habitants. It reminds me of the river Tamar that is right on my doorstep. I had no idea how pretty the Tamar was and how full of wildlife it was until I canoed it. The first time I canoed the Tamar I saw Kingfishers, Otters and salmon Dippers and was amazed by the varied and remote country side it led us through. The St Marys river gave the the same surprise and pleasure. As we approached the mouth from the sea it was dense, dense fog. We bouy hopped our way into the river. A local small pot boat followed us in from the murk and as he overtook us they had a squadron of birds in tow. The first clue to the diversity of the river was in the squadron were 3 Ospreys, ducking and clawing for the scraps. By the time we had done 1 mile of the 8 any sign of the fishing community had gone and we were into pristine river. About 1/3 of a mile wide. Not that deep. The for was left at see and the we had blue sky. The bank was mostly dense impenetrable forest with the odd meadow area. Our path through the deep water made us meander from bank to bank as the river narrowed some parts of the river went to less than 2 metres deep.. Bald eagles, Osprey, Merlin all types of waders and Loons even the hint of an otter (not confirmed) really nice few hours. Next job find a spot to and how in the river near Sherborne which had now narrowed and shallowed quite a bit.Read more

  • Morvenna 2023
    Day 440–441

    Gregogan Harbour

    June 15, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today was forecast sunny all day, with friendly winds. We thought we take on some tricky nav through the islands and channels. 30 nmiles of rock hopping and Pot dodging. But what a view. Nobody here, every island and piece of land empty and protected. One fisherman came over for a chat and wonder why and how we got here and gave us some Lobster for getting here and managing to dodge all the pots. Really Friday again.
    Burnt my head and my nose, on the way to the most beautiful wild and empty beach. Anchoring was in a notch just out of the wind in among the rocks. We had to put out a kedge an hour to control our swing as the wind was due to drop. And current pick up.
    Dinghy out and we are off site seeing, not disappointed. We have taken to using Merlin App for bird identification. It doesn’t need the internet. It’s like Shazam for birds but better. As soon as we landed we switched it on and it helped us identify and ultimately spot the birds.
    Banded kingfisher first
    Yellow leg
    Loon
    And many many others
    The area is wild and un touched.    Read more

  • Morvenna 2023
    Day 439–440

    Horse head Cove

    June 14, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We were a bit more ambitious with this trip, it was only forecast 50% fog today. So we went through a few narrow channels although when the fog came and you were in them it, was intimidating. This harbour is naturally formed and the entrance is only 2.5M deep. The guide book describes it as somewhere you could ride out any storm. After a slow a deliberate feel of our way in, edging left and right to find the deep water. The truth is it is like anchoring in a pond. Perfect for a good nights sleep. As always it’s time for a walk and as we are leaving the cabin we spot an osprey entering his/Her next right above us. We went ashore and walked down the highway (not so Wilderness) and then followed a dirt track for a mile or so. As always the locals were chatty and keen to be helpful.
    When we returned we followed an American black duck and 4 chicks settle down for the night hopefully out of sight of the Black backs (they weren’t) 2 otters were also chased off by the Black backs)    Read more

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