Day 12: Belorado - San Juan de Ortega

Our coldest morning yet, and my one and only outer layer, a lightweight but super warm fleece, was really put to the test. My decathlon gloves worked a treat but it might be getting near beanie territory for the ears.

It was nice to have a change of terrain today, a climb into some mountains and blessed shade! Ruben and Brook, seeing me yesterday with my notepad in the square studying Spanish, very kindly offered some lessons on the go. We got stuck into verb conjugations, and it was great to have the balance of a local (Ruben being Galician) and Brook being a Spanish teacher (from USA). Super nice of them to take the time for meand walking and learning felt super productive.

Partly because of the great views, but also because it's hard to change plan when you're mentally prepping for that final break, I stopped at San Juan de Ortega in a brand new albergue. It was so nice I kind of felt bad, lovely wooden bunks, new bathrooms and even sheets! Actual sheets. A real treat.

Most of the my 'Camino family' are in different towns for the first time in a while, but we'll all meet up in Burgos. A beer in the main (and only) street of town was a nice way to spend the afternoon.

Ezter and Zira also dropped by for a drink which was nice. She is desperate to get to Australia and see all the animals so had many questions, and Zira was even more demanding for scratches.

I also formally met Ines and Anne-Cecile, who I have seen on the trail and in Mass before. Anne-Cecile has done 5 Caminos already, and I believe is either a volunteer social worker for an association that takes girls from tough situations and takes them on the Camino. I think sometimes in juveniles offence situations the judge allows this supervised journey instead of a different punishment because of how great a reductiok in repest offenders the program generates..

While I am doing this for my own benefit, will walk for 3 months as a full time carer for Ines, giving some lessons along the way as well. Pretty inspirational stuff. 6 of us had dinner at the Albergue together so it was nice to get to know them a little more.

For dinner as well I finally got my Basque cheesecake! A three course meal and (of course) wine, I really feel I've lived it up tonight.Read more