• Kadi Kaljuste
  • Brad Ciccarelli

Around the World in 180 Days

January 14 to July 13, 2023 from San Francisco to San Francisco aboard Oceania Insignia Les mer
  • Mayotte, Cormoros Islands

    14. april 2023, Mayotte ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    The island of Mayotte is one of four Comoros islands. The Comoros became territories of France in the late 1800s even though it was and remains a predominantly Muslim country. Three of the four islands became independent of France in 1975 while Mayotte continues to be administered by France. It’s a lush island with beautiful waters.

    It’s a small place so we were tendered and went ashore with our friends Thomas and Geraldine to explore. Our favourite experience was peering into a nursery school’s dance class and being invited inside. Melted our hearts.
    Les mer

  • Halfway

    15. april 2023, Mozambique Channel ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    Hard to believe but we’re now at the halfway point of our adventure! Brad and I have done a great deal of reflecting on our experiences so far. We thought we’d share some of our thoughts (not in any particular order).

    Appreciate and absorb every moment: We are incredibly privileged to be able to have the time, resources and health to undertake a trip like this. We make it a habit to remind each other how fortunate we are. Every day.

    Respect and learn from cultural differences: It’s easy to impose first world/western values and standards in other countries. There’s a saying Oceania has that we think is apt - Be an explorer not a tourist.

    Stuff happens: There’s no predicting whether the itinerary laid out will actually get executed. Political situations and weather can mean changes mid trip. For example, we weren’t able to visit Peru because of political unrest there and it’s now pretty certain we won’t be going to Myanmar. You just need to roll with it.

    Find your tribe: There are about 400 Around the World people on this ship with diverse backgrounds and beliefs. It’s okay not to click with everyone you meet. The ship is more than big enough to be able to avoid people who you find irritating. (I’m sure we’re on some “avoid “ lists. 😉) We’ve made friends with dozens of wonderful people who will remain our friends long after this trip is over.

    Living in a small space is easy peasy: Our cabin is around 275 square feet plus a balcony. If you’re organized, keep tidy and have storage, it’s ample space. We’ve been surprised by how quickly it became “home” simply by adding a few tchotchkes and a pot of flowers.

    Retain routines from home: It’s tempting to eat and drink as though you’re on vacation. When you’re onboard for months you just can’t. We’ve retained our eating, drinking and exercise routines from home and haven’t gained weight.

    To celebrate the halfway milestone, we went to the evening dance party with our friends Geraldine and Thomas tonight.

    Now, on to the next 90 days!
    Les mer

  • Nosy Be, Madagascar

    16. april 2023, Indian Ocean ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    Today, we spent the day in Madagascar on one of its islands called Nosy Be. It has a French colonial past and its capital, Hell-Ville is named after a French admiral de Hell. We’ve never been here before so took an excursion to the market in the city and to The Sacred Tree, a banyan tree planted by the Queen of the Sakalava tribe in 1836. It’s believed her spirit is in the tree.

    When we reached the market, it wasn’t surprising that vendors were shouting out “vanilla vanilla vanilla” at us given Madagascar vanilla is among the world’s best. (Yes, I bought some.) The streets around the market are bustling with merchants as well as tuktuks and ox carts. Quite the sight. We then headed to the sacred tree and stopped along the way to see chameleons and see and smell the the flowers of the ylang-ylang tree which are made into perfume, one of the country’s exports.

    Once we arrived at the Sacred Tree, we had to take our shoes off as well as put on a sarong-style wrap to cover our legs because I had on a short dress and Brad was wearing shorts. Once we were outfitted, we were able to walk the paths through the 5,000 metre area of the Banyan tree. (I’d hoped we’d spot some lemurs there but no such luck.) Still today, locals come to the site to make offerings there. Fascinating.
    Les mer

  • Mahe, Seychelles

    17. april 2023, Seychellene ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    We’ve never been to the Seychelles before. Arrived in Mahe, the largest of the 115 Seychelles Islands, after lunch and headed to join an excursion that would take us to the Botanical Gardens, the Market and a beach.

    As soon as we started driving around, it was obvious we were in a more prosperous African country. The buildings and public spaces were in good condition and well maintained. In fact, it’s the only African country classified as a high-income economy by the World Bank.

    First stop: The Seychelles National Botanical Gardens which was were established in 1901 and features giant land tortoises. The gardens were simply gorgeous and the tortoises were amazing. Well worth visiting. Next, we headed to the downtown area of Victoria and visited the market. Pretty typical but I did buy a bouquet of flowers for our cabin for only $4 US. We then travelled to Beau Vallon Beach, one of the island’s most popular beaches. Some people went swimming; we chose to walk the beach. Lovely.

    We aren’t leaving here until 4 am so there was a deck party tonight with the band playing and lots of dancing. Brad was too tired to go but I went for a bit.
    Les mer

  • La Digue, Seychelles

    18. april 2023, Indian Ocean ⋅ 🌙 30 °C

    Another glorious day in Seychelles, this time on the fourth largest island called La Digue. It’s a beach/resort island so we decided we’d freestyle and head ashore on the tender boat with our friends Geraldine and Thomas. So glad we did!

    We had a fabulous day walking around on the streets and on the beachfront. It’s one of the most charming and beautiful islands we’ve ever been to. Transportation is dominated by bicycles and golf carts. There are few cars and trucks. The scenery is lush as well as dramatic with giant granite boulders dotting the landscape. The beach sand is white and fine and the water is warm and clear. Paradise.

    We chose to visit a site called L’Union Estate, a historic vanilla and coconut plantation that includes Anse Source D’Argent beach as well as a colonial era cemetery and an area for giant tortoises. We managed to do it all as well as have a casual fish and chips lunch before hopping on the tender back to the ship.

    A most perfect end to the African leg of our journey.
    Les mer

  • At sea

    19. april 2023, Indian Ocean

    Our usual at sea routine was disrupted by the long-anticipated official announcement that we’ll no longer be going to Myanmar. Not at all surprising. Given the unrest there, it’s a good call. Instead, we’ll be going to Port Blair, India; Sabang, Indonesia,; Langkaw, Malaysia; and spending an additional day in Phuket, Thailand.Les mer

  • At sea

    20. april 2023, Indian Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    There was a special brunch today for Around the World passengers: bottomless mimosas and Bloody Marys and a broad-ranging buffet of cold, hot, savoury and sweet.

  • Salalah, Oman

    22. april 2023, Oman ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    We’re in Asia now! We arrived in Salalah, Oman this morning. We’ve never been to Oman but decided not to take an excursion because it’s Eid and most everything is closed. We took the shuttle bus to the port gates where taxis were lined up and hired a driver to show us around along with another couple from the ship who we didn’t know. It worked out well.

    Oman is a Sultantate and the oldest independent state in the Arab world. It’s at the mouth of the Gulf of the Arabian Sea and has a population of about 4.5 million. It’s known as the land of frankincense. Salalah is the third largest city and has a population of about 200,000.

    Our driver was quite fluent in English and was happy to be spontaneous if we saw something of interest and wanted him to pull over. He took us to a Sultan Qaboos mosque (there are a number), the gates of two of the Sultan’s palaces (you can’t go in), the beach, a market, a man-made saltwater lake, a camel farm and a mall. We got a good sense of the city despite it being a holiday.
    Les mer

  • At sea

    23. april 2023, Arabian Sea ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Meet Chris. She’s an Around the World passenger and she’ll be turning 84 on board next month. Chris isn’t any ordinary passenger; she’s Oceania’s first resident passenger. That’s right. She’s booked on three years of back-to-back cruises.

    Why live onboard? She told us she transferred her condo to her son to avoid inheritance taxes, then her doctor retired so she decided it was the ideal time to make a change. She gave away everything but 20 boxes and a recliner and an ottoman which she put in storage and moved into an Airbnb until she decided on what was next. She visited three seniors’ living homes which she said were all lovely but the residents weren’t as active and spry as she is so she didn’t think she was quite ready for that.

    A retired teacher and school administrator, she’d been on Oceania’s inaugural 2015 Around the World cruise and loved it because she’d met such interesting people. That’s when she asked her financial advisor/nephew whether it was feasible for her to live on board. He looked at the numbers and said she certainly could - for up to 18 years!🤣

    She’s now taken up residence in a cabin on deck 7 and loving every minute.
    Les mer

  • Muscat, Oman

    24. april 2023, Oman ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Our second port in Oman is the country’s capital city, Muscat, population about 1.4 million. We’d never been here so, given the heat (daytime high of 32 Celsius) we felt it was wise to take a morning ship excursion before it got too hot. The tour took us to Grand Sultan Qaboos Mosque (the only one allowing entry to non-muslims in the Middle East), Bait Al Zubair Museum, Muttrah Souq, and the Sultan’s Palace.

    The city’s buildings are overwhelmingly white and sprawling with few skyscrapers. The tallest building in Muscat is the largest minaret of the Grand Mosque. There are gorgeous landscaped gardens throughout the city. Our guide was able to not only provide historical information but also insights into life in a Sultanate.
    Les mer

  • Dubai, United Arab Emirates - Day 1 of 2

    25. april 2023, De forente arabiske emirater ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

    Arrived in Dubai in the afternoon and we didn’t rush out because we’ve been here before and we were attending a special Around the World (ATW) event and would be heading out around 4 pm for an evening in the dunes. The invitation had included details about the event including notice that we’d be sitting on cushions on carpets in the desert in traditional Arabian style. Needless to say, not an evening for me to wear a dress. 😉

    We gathered in the Insignia Lounge just after 4pm and awaited instructions regarding our transportation to the the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve for sundowners and a falcon show. We were surprised and delighted to see a parking lot full of numbered four wheel drive vehicles awaiting. I believe there were 95?!? The convoy headed to the desert.

    Once we arrived, there was bubbly, wine and beer flowing freely and middle eastern nibbles like dates and apricots being passed around as we watched the sun set. Idyllic. Once the sun fell below the horizon we were treated to a mesmerizing falcon show. When the show ended, we had the opportunity to hold and pet the falcon, an opportunity I simply couldn’t miss! Such a cool experience.

    We then got back in the vehicles and set off for a camp site for a traditional Arabic dinner including mezze appetizers, middle eastern salads, lamb kofta, kebabs, beef tagine and various sides and desserts. Dinner entertainment included oud and tabla music as well as Tanoura dancing, (a whirling dance performed by men) and belly dancing. You could also have your hand henna-ed.

    Once again, Oceania provided us with an experience we’ll never forget.
    Les mer

  • Dubai, United Arab Emirates - Day 2 of 2

    26. april 2023, De forente arabiske emirater ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    When we were in Dubai in 2008 with our son Dylan and our friend Shelley, there was a tower being built called Burj Dubai. When it was officially opened in 2010 it was called Burj Khalifa and it had supplanted Toronto’s CN Tower as the world’s tallest free-standing structure. 🥲 It’s right next to the Dubai Mall which, with more than 1,200 stores, is the world’s largest mall.

    We decided we’d go up to the top of Burj Khalifa in the morning - up 155 floors - and then spend the afternoon in the air conditioned comfort of the mall.

    Our tickets to the Burj included a visit to the Sky Lounge which was quite posh. We enjoyed the views while sipping wine and nibbling treats. Quite civilized. We then wandered over to the mall and went our separate ways to meet up later. The mall is HUGE and its design features are breathtaking.

    While Dubai has changed significantly since we were here 15 years ago, its audacity remains. Sometimes big is just big. Not a lot of substance here; it felt as soulless as it did when we were last here.
    Les mer

  • Fujairah, United Arab Emirates

    27. april 2023, De forente arabiske emirater ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Arrived in Fujairah this morning. It’s a new port for us so we’d booked an excursion to take us to Fujairah Fort/Castle, the museum, an oasis, the Friday Market (that’s open every day 🤣) and the Bidiya mosque, the oldest mosque in the UAE.

    It was quickly apparent that Fujairah is quite different than Dubai - not flashy at all but still new looking. It’s evident the government is investing significantly in infrastructure and housing. We learned that citizens can be granted the use of government land to build a house which remains theirs in perpetuity. They can’t sell it. We saw many such houses under construction.

    The sites we visited were what you’d expect. When we visited the Friday Market, we spotted a bakery on a side street and walked over to see two men making fresh roti. When we asked to buy just one, they simply gave it to us, no charge. It was a sweet moment. And yummy.

    When we reached the mosque, I was surprised to learn we’d be able to go inside. The tour description had said we wouldn’t be so II hadn’t worn my “modest clothing.” Fortunately, Brad noticed an office on the property that was loaning women the necessary coverings so I was able to enter. It was built in 1446 and is made of clay. Glad I got to see it.
    Les mer

  • Mumbai, India (Day 1 of 2, daytime)

    30. april 2023, India ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    Arrived in Mumbai this morning. Brad and I have been to Northern India (which we loved) and were really excited to be visiting the south. We booked an excursion to take us to Elephanta Island and the Elephanta Caves located about an hour’s boat ride from the Gateway of India on the waterfront.

    The Caves are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Created between AD 450 and 750, the labyrinth of cave temples dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva have been carved into a mountain of stone.

    We boarded a bus at the port and disembarked at the Gateway to India monument. We had time to explore the area before we boarded the boat to Elephanta Island. Once on the Island we walked about a kilometre and climbed 125 stairs to reach the Caves. In the heat. We were rewarded with an extraordinary experience. The temples and carvings are enormous. How they managed to carve them into the mountain is incredible.

    Because it’s the start of summer vacation as well as a state holiday tomorrow, the sites were crowded with Indians from other parts of India. And there was a cricket match on that evening bringing people into the city. Pure chaos. We loved it.
    Les mer

  • Mumbai, India (Day 1 of 2, evening)

    30. april 2023, India ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    After a rest and dinner, we headed out for an evening excursion to experience Mumbai at night. As I said in my previous post, it’s vacation time for Indians, it’s a state holiday tomorrow and there was a cricket match on at the stadium. And if that wasn’t enough, it’s Sunday. That means women don’t cook and families go out to eat at restaurants or to the beach area for street food. Cars, motorcycles, pedestrians, honking. Sheer bedlam. The pictures I took from the bus can’t capture the beauty of the buildings and the energy of the city.Les mer

  • Mumbai, India (Day 2 of 2)

    1. mai 2023, Arabian Sea ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    Took an excursion this morning to see some key sights: the Taj Mahal Hotel, the Victoria Train Station, a Krishna Temple, the Ghandi Museum and Dhobi Ghat, a 140-year-old, open-air laundromat.

    Why visit a hotel? Because its story is legendary. The Taj Mahal Hotel was commissioned by Jamsetji Tata (yes, that Tata) and opened in 1903. The story concerning the reasoning behind the construction of the hotel was Tata being refused entry into Mumbai’s Watson's Hotel because it allowed Europeans only. It’s a stunning five-star hotel well worth visiting.

    The Krishna Temple and Ghandi Museum were interesting but what amazed us was Dhobi Ghat, the open air laundromat. Mind blowing. There are about 200 families who live there and 1,200 people who work there. The concept is simple. Customers bundle up their laundry for washing and ironing or just ironing and it’s picked up and then delivered when it’s done. Our guide explained that having a washing machine is not a given in India and that even those with washers and dryers send their items for ironing. This type of service is not unique to Mumbai but this site is the biggest.
    Les mer

  • Goa, India

    2. mai 2023, Laccadive Sea ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Arrived in Goa this morning pumped to explore this region of India we’d heard such great things about. We’d booked a highlights tour to take us to the historic Old Goa area as well as to a market and a visit to a multigenerational historic home.

    One of the common misconceptions - including ours before researching Goa - is that it’s a city. Wrong. It’s the smallest Indian state and was a Portuguese territory until it was annexed by India in 1961. It’s known for its world heritage architecture and white sand beaches and active nightlife.

    Frankly, it’s the first of our ports that left us disappointed relative to the expectations we had based on what we’d heard about Goa. In fairness, we didn’t go to the beach and we didn’t stay for the nightlife. That said, we felt it needed buffing and polishing and lacked a real energy. Maybe it comes alive at night? In any case, the individual sites we saw were lovely.

    The highlight for us was visiting the Fernandes home. They’re the sixth generation to live there and decided to open their home to tourists in order to be able to keep it in good condition. It’s a listed heritage home, 200 plus years old, and they receive no government support to maintain it. I spoke to Mrs. Fernandes and she was pleased to say their son is already taking on looking after it. Six of them live on the property - the mom, dad, their son, his wife and their two children, as well as two Malabar squirrels the patriarch rescued from a roadside zoo, five dogs and numerous ducks, chickens, a swan and a turkey. The visit was delightful.
    Les mer

  • Mangalore, India

    3. mai 2023, Laccadive Sea ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Arrived in Mangalore this morning to greeters and a red carpet at the pier. We were booked on a tour to take us to a Hindu temple, a historic family home a Catholic chapel and a cashew factory. It was going to be a scorcher - 34 Celsius - so we were grateful to have an air conditioned coach to retreat to between sites.

    We started at a gorgeous gold Hindu temple. We were fortunate to be there on a day during which there were weddings scheduled and saw guests arrive in their festive best. There’s nothing like the colourful attire at an Indian wedding!

    From there, we visited a 205-year-old family home. The owner, a widow, lives there alone and moved there in 1956 when she married at 17. It was her husband’s family’s home. Like many Indians with heritage properties, they’ve opened them to tourists in order to be able to afford to maintain them. It was lovely. Next up was a Catholic chapel.

    Our last stop was the most interesting as well as disturbing. We toured a cashew processing plant that demonstrated how complicated it is as well as how had Indians work for paltry wages. To produce an edible cashew it takes about a week of drying, washing, roasting, shelling, roasting again, removing the skin, roasting again. And much of this work is done by women by hand for $1 US an hour. What’s so incredible about this is the fact that all the cashews they’re processing are imported from Brazil and west Africa. It’s cheaper to ship them to India for processing because the wages are so low. Our guide explained that for people who lack education, these are considered good jobs because they include health benefits and a pension and that they can live on that wage. Mind boggling.
    Les mer

  • Kochi, India

    4. mai 2023, India ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    New city for us so we booked an Oceania excursion to take us to St. Francis Church, Chinese fishing nets, the Indo-Portuguese Museum, Mattancherry Palace and “Jew Town.” As we drove off from the port it was soon evident that between the bus’s squeaky suspension and malfunctioning microphone it was going to be an interesting tour. Our guide did his best to ensure we heard his commentary.

    Kochi is yet another place that was first colonized by the Portuguese and then the British. Most of the remaining historical sites are British, including an Anglican Church called St. Francis that dates back to 1779 and the palace that the British built as a gift for the region’s king.

    Interestingly, there was a Jewish community in Kochi and though the community has pretty much evaporated, its legacy in Kochi is distinct. You can read more here: https://www.vice.com/en/article/k7apxn/how-one-…

    Our skepticism about the condition of our bus ended up having merit when we returned from seeing the Chinese fishing nets to find our driver trying to start the bus with no success. The battery had died. 😂. Brad chuckled because he had seen three buses parked where we’d boarded in the port with signs in their windows reading “spare buses.” We’re guessing this wasn’t an unusual occurrence. A new bus with no squeaks and a better PA system was there in 15 minutes and we were back on our way.
    Les mer

  • Colombo, Sri Lanka (Day 1 of 2)

    5. mai 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Sri Lanka is a new country for us. We didn’t arrive here until 2 p.m. but it’s an overnight so we’ve got the full day tomorrow here too. We opted to take a two-and-a-half hour panoramic tour of the city this afternoon to give us a good overview of the city which it did. What we saw so far was lovely.

    We’re here during an important Buddhist holiday called Vesak and the city is buzzing. The festival commemorates Buddha’s birth, enlightenment and death. One of the features of the holiday are colourful lanterns called "Vesak kuudu" hung along streets and in front of homes. Food stalls set up by Buddhist devotees called "dansälas" provide free food, ice-cream and drinks to passersby. We saw crowds starting to assemble and hundreds of lanterns decorating the streets.

    Following the tour we went out to dinner with our friends Tom and Diane and were able to see the celebrations in full swing.

    Looking forward to exploring further tomorrow.
    Les mer