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Silk Road + F1
  • Kadi Kaljuste
  • Brad Ciccarelli
  • Kadi Kaljuste
  • Brad Ciccarelli

Silk Road + F1

Exploring Georgia, Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and Uzbekistan. Weiterlesen
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  • Silk Road + F1
    Statue of the wise fool, a character in Uzbekistan folklore
    At the market3The bathhouse1Photos of what Brad was about to be in forOne of the biennial installationsThis installation was made from sugarThis installation was made from hundreds of scarves collected from Bukhara women2This is a mosque covered in fabricPomegranatesAt lunch at Ayvan, part of the Lyabi Hotel1The hotel was built in 1886 by the same architect who built the summer palace we saw yesterdayAt the Bukhara train stationNot a very scenic train rideHello SamarkandPlov is a stew of mainly meat and carrots served on rice1Tada!The mother's wedding outfit was there and one of our travel companions modelled it

    Bye Bukhara, hello Samarkand

    29. September 2025 in Usbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We had most of the day free to spend in Bukhara before grabbing a train to Samarkand. It was nice to have a leisurely breakfast. Brad had scheduled a hammom bath for 11 a.m. at a traditional bath house which is Turkish style. I wasn’t interested in joining but I walked over with him.

    While he was getting pulled and scraped, I walked around the market area and met him afterwards. We were fortunate that the Bukhara Biennial was on and went to look at some of the public art. We really enjoyed that.

    For lunch, I had read about a restaurant that had been designed by the same architect that had designed the summer palace that we had visited yesterday. We had lunch there and it was lovely. By then, it was time to get to the train station. The group reassembled and we hopped on our bus to the train station. The train ride from Bukhara to Samarkand is only about 90 minutes.

    Once we arrived in Samarkand, there was a new bus and driver waiting for us to take us to a family home to watch the national dish plov being made. The parents did not speak English, but the daughters did so we were entertained by their 21-year-old who told us a great deal about Uzbekistan customs. It was enlightening as well as entertaining.

    We’ve now checked into our guest house and will start exploring Samarkand tomorrow with a guided tour.    Weiterlesen

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  • Silk Road + F1
    Timur’s tomb, Gur-e Amir
    Timur's tombEach tile spells Mohamed. There are 3,000 of them in the mausoleumWalking to Registan SquareRegistan SquareRegistan SquareMosque2Bibi-Khanym MosqueThis part of the mosque hasn't been restoredBazaar time

    Exploring Samarkand

    30. September 2025 in Usbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We had a guided walking tour of Samarkand this morning. Samarkand means rich city and it lives up to its name. It was a key stop along the Silk Road for about 1,500 years. You can read more about it here:

    https://education.nationalgeographic.org/resour…

    One of the most famous/infamous figures in the region was Amir Timur who ruled for 35 years and created a huge empire, his possessions stretching from the Volga to the Caucasus, from Central Asia to India. He died of an illness in 1405 during a campaign to China. While historians report his cruelties, they also applaud his contributions to architecture and city planning.

    One of the most famous buildings in this part of the world is the mausoleum that holds Timur’s tomb, Gur-e Amir. Interestingly, he had the mausoleum built for his beloved grandson who had died unexpectedly at the age of 29. He himself had wanted to be buried where he was born, but that mausoleum was not completed when he died. It was decided to inter him in the grandson‘s mausoleum in Samarkand.

    Timur had hired a Persian designer for the mausoleum. The beloved grandson he had it built for was named Muhammad. Hence, the patterns within the mausoleum are actually the name. Muhammad repeated 3,000 times in the tiles. Fascinating.

    Next we visited Registan Square, built around 1420, with three Madrasas (schools). Each madrasa had 55 classrooms, one to three students per class. Students stayed here up to 15 years. Admission was through an exam and was age neutral.

    From there we visited Bibi-Khanym Mosque, built between 1399 and 1404. Legend has it that Bibi-Khanym, Timur’s Chinese wife who was a descendant of Genghis Khan, ordered the mosque built as a surprise while he was away. The architect fell madly in love with her and refused to finish the job unless he could give her a kiss. The smooch left a mark and Timur, on seeing it, executed the architect and decreed that women should henceforth wear veils so as not to tempt other men. True? Who knows.

    The final stop on the tour was Siyob Bazaar where we left the group and poked around on our own before having lunch at a cafe.

    We decided to get back to the hotel for a rest before dinner and a light show tonight. .    Weiterlesen

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  • Silk Road + F1
    Stunning
    The 3D showStopped into a pub on the way back to the hotelThe mausoleum at night❤️

    Samarkand Registan Square at night

    30. September 2025 in Usbekistan ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    The group went for dinner tonight, followed by a light and 3D show at Registan Square. The show involves a laser and light spectacle that brings the historic madrasah buildings to life as well as a 3D show about Samarkand’s history. It was incredible.Weiterlesen

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  • Silk Road + F1
    Bibi Kahnym Mausoleum
    Inside the mausoleumTombs are three metres downMulberry used to make paperThe pulpSheets dryingSmoothing and polishing the dry sheetsWeaving a carpet"I'm bored mom..."Entrance to the necropolisStairs up1Wow.1Note the trace of blue tile. It would have been covered in blue1Qusam ibn-Abbas, a cousin of the Prophet Mohammed's tomb1Tashkent bound

    More Samarkand and train to Tashkent

    1. Oktober 2025 in Usbekistan ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We had time to walk over to the Bibi Kahnym Mausoleum after breakfast and stop at a cafe for a coffee before rejoining our group for more sightseeing in Samarkand. We started at Konigil Village where we learned about traditional Samarkand paper. The paper dates back to the 8th century and is made from mulberry. Reminded us of papyrus paper.

    Next up was a carpet workshop where we watched how both wool and silk carpets are made. It’s a time intensive craft that requires patience. We were also taught how to distinguish a handmade carpet from a machine made.

    Our final site in Samarkand was Shakhi-Zinda, a necropolis dating from the 14h century and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is spectacular. While there are currently 20 mausoleums here, there were originally 40, all covered in blue and turquoise tiles. It would have been magnificent.

    One of the most celebrated mausoleums here is a shrine to Qusam ibn-Abbas, a cousin of the Prophet Mohammed, who is said to have brought Islam to this area in the 7th century.

     We then had a late lunch and headed to the train station to catch a train to Tashkent. We arrived mid evening and will discover the city tomorrow.    Weiterlesen

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  • Silk Road + F1
    Sharof Rashidov, who was 1st Secretary of the Soviet Republic of Uzbekistan from 1957 to 1983
    Timur statue at Amir Timur SquareTimur and storks in the backgroundOne of two popular hotels during the Soviet eraBrad and our Australian travel companion Anita in the hotel lobbyEntering the subwayMuch fancier than Toronto's TTC, that's for sureSparkling cleanSubway platformDown to the platformOn the platformAt the bazaar/marketThe Dome building of the marketCows feet anyone?1Bread in Uzbekistan is a stapleA walk-in oven😲2The food alley is like a giant food courtThese are dumplings in a tomato sauceLunchBrad had his belt fixedThe fruits here are enormousSophie era architecture2Had an afternoon café break and ate this little guy

    Exploring Tashkent

    2. Oktober 2025 in Usbekistan ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    After breakfast, we had a guided walking tour of Tashkent, the largest city in Uzbekistan and its capital. It feels totally different than the previous Uzbekistan cities we’ve been to which are so much smaller and focussed or centred on historic monuments. Tashkent feels modern but quite Soviet.

    The reason it feels so Soviet is there was a massive earthquake in 1966 pretty much levelling the city, and the Soviets decided to rebuild it as a model city. Large avenues and boulevards were built along with enormous government buildings, an opera house, theaters, as well as a subway system.

    While Amir Timur is the hero of Uzbekistan, Tashkent’s hero is Sharof Rashidov, who was 1st Secretary of the Soviet Republic of Uzbekistan from 1957 to 1983 and rebuilt Tashkent following the earthquake. He also began Uzbekistan’s gold mining industry.

    We visited a few subway stations as well. Built in 1977 by the Soviets, they are grand. A must see.

    We ended our tour at Chorsu Bazaar, the most spectacular bazaar/market we’ve ever seen. It is HUGE. Centred by a large dome building, the market sprawls into the neighbouring streets. The highlight was the food alley where you could have a variety of Uzbek delicacies.

    Some of us chose to stay at the market and eat at the food alley, and then walk the almost five kilometres back to our hotel.    Weiterlesen

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  • Silk Road + F1
    The benefit concert
    Tashkent Broadway was a disappointmentIt was desertedOur restaurant welcome

    “Tashkent Broadway”

    2. Oktober 2025 in Usbekistan ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    This evening we decided to visit Sayilgoh Street, known as Tashkent Broadway. It’s described as “a lively pedestrian promenade in the heart of Tashkent, a popular public space for locals and tourists featuring street artists, musicians, food stalls, cafes, souvenir shops, and green spaces with trees and fountains.”

    It was about a 15 minute walk from our hotel but we made a detour when we heard music and saw lights flashing. We’d lucked in to an outdoor fundraising gala concert in front of the Opera House. Bonus! While we couldn’t watch from the ticketed area, they had big screens and a great sound system so it was a lot of fun. We stayed for about 20 minutes and realized that two of our travel companions were also on site and met up with them to go explore Tashkent Broadway and get something to eat.

    Well, Tashkent Broadway was a flop. It was deserted and had little more than fast food vendors and kiddie rides. We did spot a beckoning inflatable and decided to check him out. Turned out to be a Georgian restaurant which was fine with us.    Weiterlesen

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  • Silk Road + F1
    Khujand market area
    The mosqueInteriorThe marketBread sellerScooters ride around in the market3Picked saladBreadMuseumOur guideThe president1SunsetOur hotelPark gate at nightView from balcony

    Hello, Tajikistan!

    3. Oktober 2025 in Tadschikistan ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We drove from Tashkent, Uzbekistan to cross the border into Tajikistan. The border process was pretty straightforward but did include walking with our luggage for almost a kilometre. It wasn’t raining so no problem.

    Tajikistan is the smallest and poorest of The Stans. About 93 per cent of the country is covered by mountains and there are about 2,000 lakes. In a year, Tajikistan has about 300 days of sunshine.

    The first city we’re visiting is Khujand, population about 200,000 and the second largest city in Tajikistan. It was founded by Alexander The Great about 2,500 years ago.

    It was mid afternoon when we got there and we started with a visit to a new mosque built in 2000 and then a visit to a museum. From there we went to the market/bazaar.

    We checked in to our Soviet era hotel, relaxed a bit and went out for dinner.    Weiterlesen

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  • Silk Road + F1
    Views along the way
    Iskanderkul Lake in the distance, named after Alexander the greatHike to a waterfallThe lookout at the waterfallIskanderkul Lake1Our groupIn the villageGoatsThe general storeMooooooCattle stallChildren hanging outWe bought them some chocolate 😋Laundry dayCow coming homePlov dinner

    Into the mountains of Tajikistan

    4. Oktober 2025 in Tadschikistan ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    We took a road trip to the Iskanderkul Lake, often called the “jewel of Tajikistan.” It’s a glacier-fed lake at about 2,100 metres surrounded by the Fann Mountains. The aqua coloured lake is so beautiful that the President of Tajikistan has not one, but two retreats (called Dachas) along the lake’s shore.

    The drive there took around six hours, but we made several photo stops as well as a casual lunch break. We explored the lake and took a three- kilometre hike to a panoramic lookout and waterfall. It was a refreshing change from the city sightseeing we’ve been doing.

    We then drove for about 40 minutes to Sarytag village. It was 5 p.m. when we arrived at our guesthouse and dinner wasn’t until 7 so we had a chance to explore the village as the cows came home.

    Dinner was plov again as well as a vegetable soup and cucumber and tomato salad. One of our travellers was celebrating a birthday so we had cake as well.    Weiterlesen

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  • Silk Road + F1
    Navruz Palace
    Navruz PalaceWedding banquetWedding hallOutdoor wedding gazeboThe couple2This is the meeting room that will host the meeting starting October 8This is the room where they host state dinnersMosaic of the president and his motherThe room for state dinners2Our group1The "waiting room" which we would equate with a green roomThis building is known as the Soviet Mosaic buildingSoviet Mosaic buildingThe president's photo is plastered on buildings all over townThe new parliament building, built with the help of ChinaThe old parliament building sits across the streetFriendship Square with a guard🤔Guarding when he's not on his cell phoneOne of two independence monuments. We will visit another tomorrow.1The president's offices. I got this photo before I was whistled away by a guard.Our tribe: Jordan from the US, Anita from Australia and Carolyn from ScotlandRudaki Park2Massive floral displays have been installed in front of buildings

    Dushanbe, capital of Tajikistan

    5. Oktober 2025 in Tadschikistan ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We left the mountains this morning for a four-hour drive to the capital city of Tajikistan, Dushanbe. Dushanbe means Monday, harkening back to its days as a market town. Today, it’s a city of about 1.5 million.

    We happen to be here as preparations are underway for a major meeting starting here on October 8. It’s a meeting of the Shanghai Cooperation Organisation’s (SCO) ten member states: China, India, Russia, Iran, Pakistan, Belarus, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, and Uzbekistan. Not sure exactly what the meeting is, but they sure are primping the city in preparation. We heard Putin may be here. Maybe Modi as well.

    As a result, our itinerary was shifted to allow us to visit a complex called the Navruz Palace. It’s a new property that was completed in 2014 and was paid for by a group of business people from Tajikistan. If we hadn’t gone today, we wouldn’t have been able to go at all since the SCO meeting is taking place there.

    We were glad to visit because this building is completely over the top! It is so extravagant, and there is no estimate of how much was spent on building it. The property includes a giant man-made lake, billiards hall, cinema, several restaurants, bowling alley, ornate gardens and four rooms designated as a dining and conference centre. The pictures simply can’t capture how ornate this place is.

    We were greeted by our guide, who was also the manager of the palace, and she quickly ushered us into a banquet hall to see the set up for a wedding in the one room that is available to the public. A band struck up some tunes and we were encouraged to dance! Hilarious!

    Once we finished the tour, we checked into our hotel and then met the group for lunch. Meals in The Stans for groups are always challenging because service is very unreliable. In this case, people at one end of the table were finished their meals while others hadn’t received any food yet. Very frustrating.

    Brad and I decided to freestyle and go wandering in the hotel neighbourhood using Google map’s “attractions” feature. Three of our travel companions decided to tag along and we had a wonderful afternoon. We discovered the president’s palace, which is actually his offices and I went onto the driveway to capture a photo and was quickly whistled down by a guard and shooed away.

    We decided to have a low-key evening and and simply went for a walk in the hotel neighbourhood.    Weiterlesen

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  • Silk Road + F1
    The Museum of Antiquities
    Our museum guide2Sleeping BuddhaZzzzzzzzzOur walking tour guide was the best dressed everWashing the monumentThe national library is designed to look like an open bookThe gigantic flag poleOne of the four entry gates to Independent SquareThe tower at independence Square was closed and wouldn't reopen until 4 PMOur groupSee you tonight Independence SquareHello againView from the towerLighting is serious hereOne of the gates to the squareThe exhibitions at the base of the towerA book about the president and his sonAn oil painting of the president1Traditional dressBack again1Bye...1CCCP ice cream!?!

    Exploring Dushanbe

    6. Oktober 2025 in Tadschikistan ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We had a walking tour this morning and the highlight was visiting the Museum of Antiquities. It’s home to the famous 13-metre, five tonne Sleeping Buddha/Buddha in Nirvana from the 7th century. It did not disappoint.

    From there we carried on to Ismail Somoni Square and Rudaki Park where we’d wandered on our own yesterday. Next we saw the National Library which is designed in shape of an open book. Then, on to Flag Park, home to one of the tallest flags in the world (165 m).

    Once the tour was over, we were free to go off and explore on our own. Brad and I and four of our travel companions decided to stay in the area and walk further to Independence Square. Completed in 2022, the square’s tower stands 121 metres tall with an enormous crown capping the top. It’s said to be a gift from the Chinese commemorating 31 years of friendship with Tajikistan and honouring the 30th anniversary (in 2021) of Tajikistan’s independence from the Soviet Union in 1991.

    It was a huge disappointment to arrive there and be told that the tower is currently closed and wouldn’t reopen until later today. Probably has something to do with the meetings taking place in the city.

    The six of us had lunch and strolled back to our hotel for a rest before heading out in the evening for dinner and returning to Independence Square. A short cab ride and we were back at the Square which was beautifully lit. We went to the top of the tower for a wonderful 360 view of the city and its array of lit buildings. Lighting is a serious business here.

    Once we’d had enough of the chilly tower we went back down to the lower floors where there were artifacts as well as art. Not surprisingly, the president featured prominently. As did his son who happens to be the mayor of Dushanbe. 🤦‍♀️    Weiterlesen

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  • Silk Road + F1
    Hissor Fort pictured on the bank note
    2The actual fortReproduction of a wedding suite2The doors❤️2They offer horseback riding on the siteWeaving demonstration2Brad climbed to the lookoutAnd took some great photos2Luggage weight allowance was 20kg🤣Hello, KazakhstanHello, AlmatySuper moon in Almaty

    Hissor Fort and flight to Kazakhstan

    7. Oktober 2025 in Tadschikistan ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We had a leisurely start to the day and drove out to Hissor Fort mid morning. It’s an ancient fortress and was once one of the main gateways to old Samarkand. The twin-towered gate is pictured on the 20 Somoni Tajikistan bank note. It’s in the process of being declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Our guide was especially skilled in bringing the stories of the fort to life.

    We returned to the hotel area by early afternoon for lunch, then set off to the airport for a 7 p.m. flight to Almaty, the largest city in Kazakhstan and its former capital. The flight was about 90 minutes and on schedule. By the time we got into our room it was 10 p.m.

    We’ll explore Almaty tomorrow.    Weiterlesen

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  • Silk Road + F1
    Bus ride
    Soviet era Rasan Wellness CentreSoviet eraSoviet eraZenkov CathedralBeautifulInteriorInteriorBellsWar memorial squareMuseum of Folk Musical InstrumentsInstrumentsAccordionsThe marketSampling horse meatKazakhstan snacksMeat selectionHorse section on the right, pork on the leftMuralMuralThe Stalin-era building with an apartment that's a cafeOne room of the cafeBusking1Perfect medium steak

    Exploring Almaty, Kazakhstan

    8. Oktober 2025 in Kasachstan ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    We arrived in Almaty, Kazakhstan late last night so we went on a walking tour this morning. Kazakhstan is the 9th largest country by area in the world with a population of about 20 million people. Almaty was the capital until 1997 when it was moved to Astana. Almaty was planned for 600,000 residents but the population is now about three million.

    Our tour leader, Xenia, is actually from Almaty so she was our guide today. We started with taking a city bus to the old town and walked around Soviet era buildings including the
    Rasan wellness centre/public sauna which was built in 1982. It’s still well used.

    From there we visited Zenkov Cathedral. Completed in 1907, the cathedral is made out of wood but without nails. It stands 56 metres tall, and is claimed to be the second tallest wooden church in the world.

    We also visited the Museum of Folk Musical Instruments – a fascinating collection of Kazakh instruments like dombra and kobyz. From there we went to the Green Bazaar, the city’s market, and walked along Arbat Street, the lively pedestrian area.

    The afternoon was free time and Brad and I chose to go to a coffee shop our tour leader recommended. Called Tereze, it’s a unique located in a historic Stalin era apartment from 1950. So cool.

    We were back at our hotel by late afternoon to have a rest before going out for dinner. Food in The Stans is quite “meat and potatoes” but we found the meat to be universally overcooked. Our leader assured us that in Kazakhstan, we had a chance of having beef cooked medium rare. She was right! She recommended a restaurant and it was fabulous.    Weiterlesen

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  • Silk Road + F1
    Arriving at Charyn National Park
    Into the canyon1The trail ends at a riverThe formations look like castles2Driving to Black CanyonThe Black CanyonWild horses2On to the lake2Kolsay LakeSerene

    Kazakhstan canyons and lake

    9. Oktober 2025 in Kasachstan ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Road trip! We left Almaty this morning and drove 230 kilometres to Charyn Canyon, often called the “little brother of the Grand Canyon.” It’s over 12 million years old, carved by the Charyn River and famous for the Valley of Castles, where rock formations look like towers and fortresses. The weather is cooler now, about 14 degrees Celsius in the day so we’ve pulled out our sweaters and jackets.

    The canyon is within a national park and quite popular. We walked inside the canyon, about 2.5 kilometres each way. Once we returned, we had packed lunches at the canyon site. Lovely.

    We continued our journey another 80 kilometres to Kolsay Lake – a stunning mountain lake 1,800 metres above sea level, surrounded by spruce forests. Given we were up in the mountains the temperature was significantly cooler, dropping to about 6 degrees Celsius by sundown.

    We’re now about 40 to 50 kilometres from the Chinese border. We’re spending the night in a family guesthouse in a mountain village called Saty, a chance to experience traditional Kazakh hospitality.    Weiterlesen

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  • Silk Road + F1
    Russian 4x4
    1Function over formAt the park3The group21211Back to the guest houseThe horses that delayed our border crossingHello, Kyrgyzstan1Cows coming home

    Kaindy Lake + crossing to Kyrgyzstan

    10. Oktober 2025 in Kasachstan ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    We had an adventurous morning travelling from Saty Village to Kolsai Lakes in a Buhanka. Buhanka is a Russian nickname for the UAZ-452 series of Soviet/Russian 4x4 vans, named for their resemblance to a loaf of bread. Produced by UAZ , it’s a rugged, simple vehicle thats been in continuous production since the 1960s. It was functional but not much more.

    The highlight of our hike was reaching Kaindy Lake, a turquoise lake with a striking submerged forest protruding from the water. Amazingly, the lake was created by an earthquake in 1911 which caused a limestone landslide creating a dam in the forest. So surreal. And beautiful.

    Following our outing we returned to the guesthouse for lunch and then loaded onto our bus to travel two-and-a-half hours to the Kyrgyzstan border. When we arrived at the border, we unloaded all of our luggage and were told that we needed to wait. There were horses that needed to clear the border before us. Sure enough, there were 30 or 40 horses that had wandered across the border and their rancher was bringing them back. That was a first! We’ve never had to wait behind horses.🤣

    Our first city in Kyrgyzstan is Karakol. It was about an hour-and-a-half drive from the border so we didn’t reach our hotel until dinner time. We’ll explore the city tomorrow.    Weiterlesen

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  • Silk Road + F1
    Holy Trinity Orthodox Cathedral
    A wooden cathedralThe marketKarakol cafeWe found Canadian $Hot chocolate for Brad, latte for meThe Chinese style mosque2We weren't allowed inBroken Heart RockSeven Bulls Rocks2Such a rugged landscape1Lunch viewFairytale Canyon12Welcome to Yurt Camp2Our yurt

    Our final Stan, Kyrgyzstan

    11. Oktober 2025 in Kirgisien ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Visiting Kyrgyzstan is the final Stan in our tour. It’s a land-locked, mountainous country with a population of around seven million people and about 64 per cent mountains. It’s become a popular adventure travel destination for hikers.

    The first city we’re visiting is Karakol which was founded in 1870 as a Russian military outpost. It’s the fourth largest city in Kyrgyzstan with a population of 85,000.

    Our first stop was at Holy Trinity Orthodox Cathedral. An earthquake in 1889 destroyed the original stone church. In 1895, community donations funded rebuilding it. When the
    Soviets arrived they closed the church. It was reopened after Independence. We then walked over to the Market and stopped into a cafe.

    Next we visited the Dungan Mosque. It was built in 1910 in Chinese style and was transported from China. It was created without the use of a single nail using special tongue and groove techniques. Original Lego!😉

    We reboarded our mini bus and set off to Broken Heart Rock. Legend has it that this is the heart of a beautiful woman who died of a broken heart after two suitors killed each other fighting over her.

    On to another rock formation: Jeti Oguz or Seven Bulls. It’s a sandstone formation where the rocks look like seven bulls. It was a spectacular setting for our lunch.

    Back on our bus and onto Fairytale Canyon. After a walk around we got back on the bus and drove to our Yurt Camp where we’ll stay for the next two nights. Think glamping.    Weiterlesen

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  • Silk Road + F1
    The eagle hunter
    With his apprentice. His son is only five years old and too young to start training.The hunters are female golden eagleThey live till about 60 yearsThe apprentice on the mountain released the golden eagleCalling the Golden Eagle to comeThey hunt with their claws, not their beaksBrad, trying on the glove that is made from cow skin2Brad gives it a try2I did too, but on the ground, not on the horse1Learning how to make a yurtThey use elm wood1The Elm rods are painted with a substance that repels bugs and miceBrad helping with the assemblyPutting in one of the roof support rodsStrapping in the rodsTada!1The interiorOur group feeling smug that we assembled itLunch at their home

    Golden eagles and yurt building

    12. Oktober 2025 in Kirgisien ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    This morning’s outing from our yurt camp on Issyk-Kul Lake was extraordinary. We went to an eagle hunting demonstration. Kyrgyzstan is one of a few countries where the nomads historically trained golden eagles to hunt for them. You can read more about it here:
    https://central-asia.guide/eagle-hunting/

    It’s a generational skill passed on from father to son (though there are girls and women now participating) and the eagles and trainers build phenomenal relationships. Brad and I experienced a similar falcon hunting demonstration a couple of years ago in Dubai but this felt far more authentic.

    Next, we visited a yurt builder. This is also a generational skill, but involves the whole family. The males build the structure and the women create the furnishings and decorations. This particular family builds about 15 yurts a year that they sell for about $4,000 US each.

    The frame is made from elm, the ties are made from cow hide and wool, and the walls and roofs are made of thick batted wool. In nomad times, a fully outfitted yurt weighed about 500 kilograms and was transported on horseback. It was fascinating to learn how they’re made and help put one up.

    We then had lunch at the family’s home.    Weiterlesen

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  • Silk Road + F1
    Our friend Carolyn rolling out the door
    Our tour leader cuts the dough as Ann looks onBrad deep frying2They're done so fastLearning about felting. Everything starts with the balls of wool.Cleaning the wool and bringing out the lanolinShredding the wall to create a layerEach of us made something to put into the feltSmoothing itBoiling water gets poured over itIt's rolled upAnd bundledAnd then you stomp on it to get the water out1Which turns into a fun dance2Further pressing and flatteningAnother variety of felt artThe finished felt art the next morning

    Borsook and felt at the yurt camp

    12. Oktober 2025 in Kirgisien ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    In the afternoon we had two workshops. The first was learning to make traditional Borsook bread. It’s made with flour, yeast, salt and water, rolled out, cut into pieces and deep fried. Brad mastered deep frying them. They taste like donuts and are eaten plain or with jam.

    Next, we learned to make felt. What a complicated process! Kyrgyzstan nomads used felt for their yurts as well as for yurt decorations. Today, this type of felt craft is having a revival.

    Following our workshops we had a bit of free time before dinner. It’s our final night at the camp.    Weiterlesen

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  • Silk Road + F1
    2Beautiful scenery on our drive to Bishkek
    Gates to Burana TowerThe tower is a UNESCO world heritage siteView from the towerThe tower groundsLunch at a family home

    On to our last stop: Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan

    13. Oktober 2025 in Kirgisien ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We left the yurt camp in the morning for the six-hour drive to Bishkek, the final city in our tour. On the way, we stopped at the Burana Tower, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It dates from the 11th century. You can read more about it here:

    https://www.lonelyplanet.com/kyrgyzstan/tokmok/…

    From there we had lunch at a family home. It was a feast! Then, a two -hour drive back on the bus to check into our hotel in Bishkek.

    Bishkek is the capital of Kyrgyzstan with a population of about 1.5 million. Given we arrived late afternoon, we had free time for the remainder of the day. Brad and I and three fellow travellers decided we wanted a bit of pampering and found a nail salon for manicures and pedicures and then went out for dinner.

    We’ll reconnect with the whole group for a tour of the city tomorrow morning.    Weiterlesen

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    Philharmonia building
    Statue of Manas, a Kyrgyz epic character.MuralMuralThe statue base used to have a statue of Lenin1The Lenin statue was moved to the backRabbit or squirrel?Parliament buildingKurmanjan Datka was a women hero of Central Asia.National Opera and Ballet TheatreRoof of the National Opera and Ballet TheatreYurt-shaped Victory MemorialSoviets loved grand squares and monumentsOsh BazaarI love a man in uniform 😉Trim timeCost? About $10Saddles for sale🤦‍♀️Camouflage section

    Exploring Bishkek and bye to the group

    14. Oktober 2025 in Kirgisien ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    It’s the final day of our Intrepid group tour and we spent the morning together exploring Bishkek. It’s a very young Russian/Soviet designed city with the majority of buildings built in the 1900s. We saw the Philharmonia of Bishkek building built in the 1960s alongside the statue of Manas, a Kyrgyz epic character.

    From there we walked to Ala-Too Square, the
    National Opera and Ballet Theatre, the yurt-shaped Victory Memorial and ending at
    Osh Bazaar. Brad and I chose to stay at the bazaar, get Brad a hair and beard trim and wander around before walking back to the hotel and checking out the nearby mall.

    The group met for a farewell dinner and reminisced about the three weeks we’ve been together. Many of the group fly off tomorrow morning and tomorrow afternoon. Brad and me and three others are here until the 16th.

    There are a few in the group that we hope to see again. Our parting words to them were not good bye but see you soon.    Weiterlesen

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    The pavilion that sold lemonade and has a bomb shelter underneath it
    The forest built with beer moneyThere are so many statues in this cityHappy bride and groomThe mallAnother monumentThe ballet and opera theatre is a mini BolshoiJordan at the back, Carolyn, me and Brad at the theatreProgram cover via Google translate 😁Young sailorsCurtain call

    A walking tour, shopping and the ballet

    15. Oktober 2025 in Kirgisien ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    There are only four of us left from the original group of 11 now and we decided to take a walking tour this morning. We were fortunate that this route didn’t really repeat the things we did yesterday. We were also surprised and delighted that this guide was willing to talk about ex-Soviet life as well as the current situation with Russia. It was probably the most candid conversation we’ve had with a local during our time in the region over the last three weeks.

    One of the highlights of the walk was an old pavilion in the park that’s being restored. It was a lemonade stand and used to have 16 lemonade machines as well as a government bomb shelter underneath it.

    We also learned that the city’s oldest park is thanks to a guy from Ukraine who moved here and wanted to plant trees but had no money. He started brewing and selling beer and with that beer money, ordered trees from Europe. Those trees are now well over a hundred years old.

    Following the tour, we left our travel companions Jordan and Carolyn and set off to do a bit of shopping. By late afternoon, we got back to the hotel to have a bit of a rest before heading to the ballet with them. The ballet and opera theatre here is a miniature version of the Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow. The performance this evening was a gala of the Academy, the preeminent dance school here. It was wonderful to see such amazing young talent and attend something that was not intended for tourists.

    We had dinner after the show and said our see-you-soons. When we go to breakfast tomorrow, Brad and I will be the last ones here. Our flight isn’t until early evening.    Weiterlesen

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    Bishkek Central Mosque
    Mosque mannersMinaretInterior1Most Soviet era cities have a circus buildingA "wedding palace"More Soviet era architectureWalking in one of the many parksPatio lunchNo clue what was going on here but their outfits are incredibleRoses are still blooming hereAnother monument

    Bye, Bishkek

    16. Oktober 2025 in Kirgisien ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    It’s our final day in The Stans and we decided to have a lazy morning. Brad and I are the last two here. We thought it fitting to visit the Bishkek Central Mosque given mosques have been central to most of the places we’ve visited over the course of the tour.

    This one is one of largest in Central Asia, with an area of more than 4,000 square metres, 38 metres high and with 70-metre-tall minarets. It cost $25 million funded by Turkey and was opened in 2018. It’s a copy of the Kocatepe Mosque in Ankara.

    Once we’d finished our visit we took a leisurely walk to a café we visited a couple of days ago that’s in the middle of a park. We figured we’d enjoy sitting on a patio before we get back to chilly Toronto. It was a wonderful decision.

    We meandered back to our hotel. We were fortunate that late checkout was available to us so we were able to go back to the room and relax and do final packing before our pick up to the airport.

    We now begin the looong process of getting home. First leg - a flight from Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan to Almaty, Kazakhstan.    Weiterlesen

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    At the Almaty airport

    Bishkek to Almaty flight ✅

    16. Oktober 2025 in Kasachstan ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We’re now taking the long journey home. We’ve completed the first of three flights. It was a short, under one hour, flight from Bishkek to Almaty, Kazakhstan. We now have a few hours wait before we start the next leg to Frankfurt.Weiterlesen

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  • Ende der Reise
    17. Oktober 2025
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