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Cress on the Camino Francés 24
  • Cressida Borrett
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toukok. 2024 – syysk. 2025

Cress on the Camino Francés 24

I'm taking time out to do something I have always wanted to do as part of celebrating turning 60. Lue lisää
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    Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino Francés 24Matkaaja

    Tough day is a understatement

    19. toukokuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    There aren't many photos today as it rained so I was encased in waterproof jacket, trousers and poncho thing. The phone was somewhere inside it all, but I sweated so much everything got wet on the inside too. Backpack was ok though.
    We left at about 6.30 just as it was getting light, and starting to rain more heavily. 33.4 km later I am finally sitting on my bed in a nice hotel room, no mud, and feet which were soggy all day drying out nicely.
    Highlights of the day, as I'm too tired to write properly:
    1.Discovering that walking in soggy trainers in merino socks is refreshing and pleasant, although maybe not for 9 hours
    2. Asturias is so beautiful, green, hilly and like Devon meets Germany, Slovakia amd Poland.
    3. Walking 20km without food is not a good idea
    4. A really sad looking tatty bar can be the best thing all day if it serves good tortilla and coffee
    5. Don't try to get dinner on a Monday, all the kitchens are closed, even in our apparently 4 star hotel. Opposite a sawmill.
    6. A tractor in a made to size layby, shrink wrapped
    7. Lots of baby animals    Lue lisää

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino Francés 24Matkaaja
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    Camino Primitivo 25

    18. toukokuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Back again for another camino. Allegedly the original route, hence the name. From Villaviciosa in Asturias on the north coast, across the mountains and down to Santiago.
    Today was spent relaxing in Avilés where we spent the night, getting a bus to Gijon, exploring a bit and then another bus to Villaviciosa from where we start walking tommorow very early. It's a 30km day nearly, very hilly, so we are going to get started at dawn. Any walking before about 11 is never as tiring as after that for some reason. And walking before 8 doesn't feel like effort, as I should be in bed or just getting up.
    Gijon is a lovely city. Lots of 1930s architecture as shown in the photos. It has lovely golden beaches and a port. There's a pretty old town with nice beer and kikos in a warm square full of bar tables. Sunny with a cold edge, so perfect walking weather. Rain forecast though    Lue lisää

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino Francés 24Matkaaja

    Santiago

    27. kesäkuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    I now have a piece of paper saying I walked 500 miles, which is unreal. We found ourselves,walking a bit slower today and talking to more people, but the last 19km still seemed long. We met our friend David who has been ahead of us for a couple of weeks at a cafe and walked in to Santiago together. Other people we knew were in the square, and the whole thing was sureal. The others took more pictures so I will post those when they send them.Lue lisää

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino Francés 24Matkaaja

    Last night on the camino

    27. kesäkuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    After walking 29km yesterday I was too hot and tired to write this. We spent the afternoon at a pool in another hostel, ate a lot of ice-cream, Fiona finally found banana flavour, and had some food. The walk in to O Pedrouzo was hilly, more woods than anything else and the town itself as ordinary as I remembered it from staying here once before. Most natable were the hydrangeas and a strange American priest called Luke who Fiona made friends with.Lue lisää

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino Francés 24Matkaaja
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    28.6km in 7 hours

    25. kesäkuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    And I wonder why I'm so tired I fell asleep at 8pm last night.
    Today started so humid and misty the trees were dripping on us. We left at 6.30 again and had breakfast in the town where the large groups were staying but managed to get ahead of them.
    The rest of the morning was just woodland, small villages and landscapes that could have been the North Downs Way in places. There were still plenty of people walking including a guy with a huge boom box blaring music. I instantly wanted to kill him until I realised he was pushing a giant buggy with 3 children in, and there were other hospital stretcher things in the group carried by two men each and with sick kids in. Every few meters they were stopping to dance and jump around. It is hard enough to carry a backpack and walk, let alone that so the noise pollution is forgiven.
    In other strange sights, we came across an American author selling copies of her book from a table outside her house.    Lue lisää

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino Francés 24Matkaaja

    Tetleys or Yorkshire?

    24. kesäkuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    After a really tasty meal last night with "Berni from Austria " on the beers and weed as usual, a lovely french girl and a dutch cheese trader who we didn't like, the day started at 6. We couldn't get out of the hostel so we climbed over a dry stone wall in the dark, on to a dark foggy camino. The idea was to walk the first 6km to Portomarin for breakfast and get ahead of the crowds. However, as we were eating breakfast they all started pouring off their buses so that was the end of the peace and quiet.
    The day started foggy and then cloudy, walking downhill through woodland and many abandoned or semi abandoned villages. In one hamlet there was a table set out by o e Richard and Evelyn, with Tetleys,Yorkshire tea, milk etc. And a sign saying pay for it if you can. Really not what you expect.
    The second half of the walk was through countryside that looked like England, in bright sunshine that got steadily hotter. I somehow managed to overtake Fiona, and arrived at another very nice hostal, this one with our first pool in weeks. Only us and a couple of german girls here so a nice relaxing afternoon.    Lue lisää

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino Francés 24Matkaaja

    Last 100km

    23. kesäkuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We got up early, after a better sleep and had a quiet Sunday morning wander into Sarria, the first proper town in several days, and a good place for breakfast. The town is the starting point for most people as it lies 113km away from Santiago which is enough to qualify for the pilgrim certificate at the end. As we sat drinking coffee groups started emerging from the many hotels and hostels, shiny new trainers and very excited and loud for 9am on a Sunday. They included the bus load of mexicans we encountered yesterday and what seemed like about 100 people in bright pink charity t shirts from Málaga. I felt like it was a completely different walk. The Málaga lot are raising money for bone marrow donation and a few of the families had large cart things to push sick or tired kids in. It is hard enough walking, let alone pushing a heavy buggy. I talked to a couple who turned out to be ex fencing champion of Ukraine and her disciples, current spanish kid champions. Also a large American called Mike,from Illinois who was clearly not fit. He is training to walk up to Everest base camp. Good luck with that as he thinks 10 miles is really far.
    We stopped at an overcrowded cafe for 2nd coffee with Ryan and Kyle the father and son from New Jersey we met the other day, and then struggled up the last hill to Pena where we are staying in a very new and squeaky clean hostel. It's on the 100km marker, so not far to go.    Lue lisää

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino Francés 24Matkaaja
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    Tough day

    22. kesäkuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    So what goes up must come down. Today I had no energy, and it was all down folkowed by another up to Pintin where we are staying tonight. Fiona had already had lunch by the time I got here and was sitting with some people we made friends with last night. The walk was pretty, and went through many farms and hamlets, lots of which are abandoned. We we t past an 800 year old chestnut tree, and a hippy place where I got fruit and a snack in return for a donation.Lue lisää

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino Francés 24Matkaaja

    32km day

    22. kesäkuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Yesterday was a really lovely walk. 32km though and I was too tired to write.
    We crept out of the hostel at 6 and walked up through a damp mostly morning, stopping for breakfast in a small village. Gradually the mist started to burn off and it turned into the most beautiful day. We climbed up steeply through the most beautiful temperate rain forest, eventually reaching O Cebreiro, which is the start of the more touristy bit of the camino. It's a tiny medieval looking hamlet wthe ith the most beautiful church. We had lunch there and then continued up to the hostel, arriving after 10 hours. Nice hostel, nice people and fun evening.Lue lisää

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino Francés 24Matkaaja
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    Not often...

    21. kesäkuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Can you take a photo of montains and have walked from the horizon to where you are taking the photo. These are the mountains we have crossed in the last few days

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino Francés 24Matkaaja

    Four weeks and still going

    20. kesäkuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    A short walk today, only 19km, which is just s well as my foot hurts a lot so I was walking very slowly. Fiona took the high route across the top of the mountain, I decided to be sensible and walked in the valley which was pretty, vineyards to begin with and then a river and woods, mostly of chestnut trees.
    I managed to pick cherries and lots of wild strawberries to suplement the huge hunk of cake I had for breakfast.
    Tonight we are staying in a nice hostel with 10 beds, where there's a meal included. Everyone seems friendly.
    Tommorow we have a 32km uphill walk, so early start.    Lue lisää

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino Francés 24Matkaaja
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    El Bierzo

    19. kesäkuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Today we decended one lot of mountains, walked through Ponferada, nice breakfast with some Americans and across the Bierzo basin towards the next lot of mountains. This area is probably no more than 50 miles across, but has its own microclimate. I'm currently sitting in a cafe with a glass of the local wine, in the sun. The mountains are all around, and covered in thick black storm clouds. You can hear thunder and I am on alert to run up to our room and bring the laundry in from the balcony.
    We are staying in a place called Cacabelos, and just had a swim, very quick in my case, in a freezing river. There are small bits of snow up against the shadier buildings, so it is definitely a microclimate. It's famous for wines, cherries which I was picking earlier, and chestnuts. We walked past loads of meat procesors too, so also cecina, hams, chorizos and other dried meats. They also sellfridge magnets in the shape of serrano hams and chorizos. Fiona not impressed!    Lue lisää

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino Francés 24Matkaaja
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    Molinaseca

    18. kesäkuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Today has been one of my favourite days so far. We woke up to cloud and rain. The room, and bed, were so cosy I didn't want to leave. However, with full waterproofs and poncho we were on the way by 6.30.
    Up 2km to the iron cross that marks the highest spot on the camino frances. Then a really enjoyable stomp along the road in pouring rain stopping at a food truck with a lovely fire and in a pretty village for first and second breakfasts. I was wearing so much waterproof clothing the climb was hot and sweaty but felt really good.
    After a few hours the rain stopped, I went back on the rocky path and long decent in to Molinaseca. It was a normal mountain track the sort that have had me in tears with knee pain over the last decade. So it was a joy that my knees didn't hurt or do anything they usually do going downhill. I didn't fall over either. That and the amazing smell from all the wild herbs and roses when the sun finally got to them made it a lovely walk.
    The village of Molinaseca is very pretty, timber houses, many falling down and some promising food options which we are off to explore.
    Pity it was too wet for my phone (most of these pictures are Fiona's) as there was the best mistranslation on an official road sign yet. (Thought of Par, Portia)    Lue lisää

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino Francés 24Matkaaja
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    Mountains again

    17. kesäkuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    After a better than expected sleep in the dorm at last night's hostel the path set off from a few meters away, long and straight until coffee about 4km in. Then another coffee after a few more small villages in increasingly beautiful countryside. Scrubby spanish oak woodlands that as we went gently up became gallician pines (tall ones like in England) and then the little oaks again. My foot was hurting a bit so I distra ted myself by counting 31 different wildflowers over less than 1km. These included everything from thistles to heather, clover, thyme,broom, daisies, lavender and wild dog roses to things I don't know the names of. If you were here Panda, you would be walkin g v ery slowly collecting seeds and photos
    After Rabanal, a lovely village which survives on the camino, the hill became steeper and I enjoyed a 6km uphill walk through stunning woods. We are now in our hotel for today, looking over the moun tains and thinking about a shower. There's a very black cloud overhead so we might finally get wet tomorrow.
    Apologies for typos and any out of focus photos. I didn't bring the right glasses, nd am usually too tired tocheck on what I'm posting properly.    Lue lisää

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino Francés 24Matkaaja
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    Astorga

    16. kesäkuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    The veggie hostel last night provided a really nice vegetable cous cous, and space to give my foot some tlc, which seems to have helped. Today started sunny with a lovely walk through beautiful countryside, where I walked for a while with a Hungarian spanish professor, and talked in Spanish which is unusual, English being the international language.
    Half way along we came to the famous donativo Fiona has been talking about. There is every snack you could ever want, drinks and stuff and you just make a donation. I talked to an argentinian cyclist who has been camped out there for 10 days.
    After a rest we came down in to Astorga, a town that exists because of the pilgrimage route in the middle ages but doesn't do much to welcome pilgrims. The crazy multistorey green iron bridge across a railway line that probably has 10 trains a day is just what you need after walking 15 miles.
    The town seemed nice though and Gaudís episcopal palace was stunning. I was enjoying wandering around looking at the ceramics, when I suddenly realized they had chucked everyone else out and closed for lunch. My backpack was locked in the reception building and we had to ask to get a very grumpy person to let us back in to get it.
    We are now 4km further on in a village albergue (hostel) which seems nice and a lot busier than last night.    Lue lisää

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino Francés 24Matkaaja
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    Back walking

    15. kesäkuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    I did the sensible thing today, taking the traditional route along the road just incase I needed a bus or taxi. Fiona took the longer prettier route and we met up at Albergue Verde her favourite hostel. With the help of painkillers I managed the 25km but my foot and ankle still hurt. Dr Google thinks its extensor tendonitis, so I willjust have to take each day as it comes. There are people walking with far worse Injuries, some have had to give up.
    This hostel is lovely, €16 a night, vegetarian and very relaxed. Only 3 of us staying at the moment so I'm not sure how they make a living. The town is like something out of a kids book about the middle ages. Long cobbled bridge which you can just imagine a knight in armour galloping across. I could do with a bit of food so will probably go and investigate. It was so cold this morning all the bars along the way stayed shut, so no coffee or breakfast until quite late. The sky is bright blue but the wind is icy and my hands went numb.    Lue lisää

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino Francés 24Matkaaja
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    Resting in Leon

    14. kesäkuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    Day off and a lie in. What a luxury. We visited Gaudís dragon building this morning. It's really beautifully designed down to every last detail and would be an achievement even today. The dragon in the photo is a replica of the original which had a tube containing documents and the plans, hidden by Gaudí.
    Other than that we just wandered around, ate random not memorable food and am now resting and looking out of the window at the lovely derelict patio.    Lue lisää

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino Francés 24Matkaaja

    Made it to Leon

    13. kesäkuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    I decided to walk today, although most people take the bus to avoid walking through the outskirts of Leon. It was only 18km, which is just as well as my latest ailment (pain in right foot) has got worse. The other ones have all gone away. I self diagnose tendon damage through overuse but will consult a chemist tomorrow. We followed Fiona's policy of always stopping in the second bar for breakfast. On the basis that being second, they try harder, and the coffee is better. This one in the third of several villages beginning with V had a coffee accompanied by 2 free cakes, which if you spoke Spanish you got to choose, for €1.50 . Free food with all drinks is a thing in the province of Leon so we haven't had to buy much. They don't cater for vegetarian s mind.
    Leon city is lovely, and I have no idea why it has taken me 60 years to visit. We are staying in a very nice room in the historic city centre in a building that looks semi derelict from the outside. The cathedral is stunning, one of the few that will stand out in my memory. Gothic at its best with lovely stained glass windows., and possibly an influence on Gaudí s Sagrada Familia, as he was here. More about that tomorrow.
    There is also an art materials shop next door to the hotel, so after looking for one for 10 days, I was finally able to replace the pen I need for drawing.
    This evening we had a drink with David, who lives in Malaga, and who we have been bumping in to and having meals with for 2 weeks now, in one of the hundreds of bars, all heaving. Even the pigeons are enjoying tapas, which come free when you buy a drink. Apparently, today is university day, when the students finish, so having asked for a quiet room at the back of the hotel, there is still a buzz of noise in the background which will go on all night. It won't stop me sleeping though.    Lue lisää

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino Francés 24Matkaaja

    More roman road stomping

    12. kesäkuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Dawn saw us back on the Roman Road, in my case with sore feet from early on, and a puffy ankle. It was very much a one foot in front of the other whilst po during whether the roman armies, traders, Charlemegne and pilgrims before us walked as slow as me, or as fast as Fiona. The highlight was a stork taking off from a few feet away. And arriving. Mansilla is a lovely town, with a lovely river which we had hoped to swim in but the weather was too cold. We did have a really nice meal though, best yet probably, and I met a ceramics professor so had a nice time talking about clay.Lue lisää

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino Francés 24Matkaaja
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    Roman road

    11. kesäkuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Today we walked about 32km. Fiona's app said it would be 29, and my feet are not impressed. Knowing it was going to be a long one we were out on the road by 6am when it was a mere 3 degrees C. Good for fast walking. We were rewarded with a beautiful sunrise and wholemeal croissants after 14Km, in Sahagún. That's the midway point on our walk, 385km or thereabouts, and you can pay 2 euros and get a halfway certificate from the museum,which we did. It is very pretty and all that but says nothing about halfway so another pilgrim myth. The church museum was good though, even has a mummy.
    After heading out of Sahagún the path splits and we chose the roman road for the next two days. Another myth is that you shouldn't walk it as there are cobblestones, but actually it has a sandy top. We were the only people on it, and as F was half a mile ahead as usual I had it to myself. Beautiful big skies, scrub and wild flowers including French lavender on both sides. Even aching feet didn't spoil it.
    We are now in a small village in a nice hostel with only 5 guests all of whom we have met before. We had a reasonably edible (by my fussy standards) meal after spending the afternoon drawing in the garden again.    Lue lisää

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino Francés 24Matkaaja
    4

    Long straight path

    10. kesäkuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We woke up today to 12c and a biting cold wind. Just as well as the sun was out again and most of the 23km was in full sun along a very straight roman road, raised up between crops of mostly wheat.
    The highlight of the morning was the food truck after 2 hours walking, where we had a really ni e breakfast. Nowhere to pee for the next 7km though as there were lots of walkers and no way of getting
    down from the roman road! I distracted myself taking g photos of fennel and the Picos de Europa mountains in the distance.
    The last section was a bit less flat, we saw a linet and a cat marched past carrying a dead mouse and looking very pleased with itself.
    It was a relief to arrive as .y feet are feeling very pounded, for want of a better word, after about 15km each day.
    The hostel is in the second semi abandoned village of the day, and is very nice. I spent the afternoon drawing.
    Early start for a long day tomorrow so early night, as I didn't sleep well last night.    Lue lisää

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    Carrion de los condes

    9. kesäkuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We started later (7am) today as it was grey skies and about 10c cooler which suits me fine. Fiona's hands turned white though and she has spent most of the day cold.
    The walk was flat and took us along an ancient canal with lots of birdsong, which you can identify with an app called Merlin. Then across more wheat fields through a couple of dead villages, one with an amazing church with knights templar tombs and 15th century carvings.
    My feet and knees decided that today they would ache and the last few kilometers were hard. The changing insole trick didn't fool them. However, most people are far worse off and a couple of our camino 'friends' are giving up or taking rest days because of blisters. Thank you Hoka trainers, and Michael my nhs podiatrist!
    Carrion is a nice town and we have a private room tonight which means sheets, towels and a bathroom instead of a hostel bed. We had a nice lunch in the busiest restaurant, and then at 6 went to see the singing nuns. A thing where people share where they are from, why they are walking and sing non religious songs with nuns. It reminded me of school in Cádiz, as the nuns were just as lovely. Anyway, a bit special and hard to explain. I went for a walk afterwards on my own and ended up having beers with a bunch of people we have met over the last few days.
    The photo of the man on the bike with an umbrella is my picture for my drawing project today. Day 370 of daily drawing.    Lue lisää

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino Francés 24Matkaaja
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    5 Goat Town

    8. kesäkuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Last night was very different. Only three of us staying, us and a guy from Barcelona. The host, a very intense alternative-lifestyle-with-money woman had done amazing things with the derelict house. It was very peaceful and relaxing, and the dinner was really good. Lentil and tomato salad with dill, and veggie couscous. I managed to sleep through a big thunderstorm. Today started with a hill, and then more rolling countryside for 20km to Bobadilla, a mostly abandoned town where the most interesting thing is a lovely church, with a bad smell of pee, and 6 storks nests on top. There are 5 goats grazing and 2 hostels, one of which we are staying in. The people who run it are Dutch, and serve pancakes and Thai curry among other things. Very quiet and about to rain by the look of the skyLue lisää

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    Yet more poppies and big skies

    7. kesäkuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    After the heat yesterday we got up really early and walked 19km to the first cup of coffee through beautiful fields of wheat and poppies. We found a place with carrot cake for breakfast and kept on walking down to a ruined abbey that Fiona wanted to stay the night in. Except that we saw a sign in the middle of nowhere for a veggie, alternative lifestyle place in Castrojeriz so here I am sitting in a beautiful peaceful garden under a tree. There are only four beds, which are in a huge yoga studio, and only three of us staying so far. It's a very lovely place which promises some variation on the pilgrim diet, which being meat heavy is not really my thing.
    Walked past a poppy and purple flower field. The attached photo doesn't do it justice.    Lue lisää

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    First day on the meseta

    6. kesäkuuta 2024, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Which for those of you who don't know, is the enormous plateau that covers most of central Spain, from La Mancha south of Madrid to the mountains just north of us here. In my experience it is either baking hot like today or very cold in Winter.
    As there has been so much rain the poppies, thistles and other wild flowers are stunning.
    We are staying in a hostel Fiona knows from last year in a sleepy village that has the good fortune to sit on the path to Santiago, and is making the most of it by catering to pilgrims. There's a man in a small shop across the road selling tiny shampoos, suncreams, blister stuff, and food in small packets as well as making nice sandwiches.    Lue lisää

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