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Cress on the Camino Francés 24

maggio 2024 - luglio 2025
  • Cressida Borrett
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I'm taking time out to do something I have always wanted to do as part of celebrating turning 60. Leggi altro
  • Cressida Borrett
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  • Cressida BorrettViaggiatoreCress on the Camino Francés 24

    Four weeks and still going

    20 giugno 2024, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    A short walk today, only 19km, which is just s well as my foot hurts a lot so I was walking very slowly. Fiona took the high route across the top of the mountain, I decided to be sensible and walked in the valley which was pretty, vineyards to begin with and then a river and woods, mostly of chestnut trees.
    I managed to pick cherries and lots of wild strawberries to suplement the huge hunk of cake I had for breakfast.
    Tonight we are staying in a nice hostel with 10 beds, where there's a meal included. Everyone seems friendly.
    Tommorow we have a 32km uphill walk, so early start.    Leggi altro

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  • Cressida BorrettViaggiatoreCress on the Camino Francés 24
    1
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    El Bierzo

    19 giugno 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Today we decended one lot of mountains, walked through Ponferada, nice breakfast with some Americans and across the Bierzo basin towards the next lot of mountains. This area is probably no more than 50 miles across, but has its own microclimate. I'm currently sitting in a cafe with a glass of the local wine, in the sun. The mountains are all around, and covered in thick black storm clouds. You can hear thunder and I am on alert to run up to our room and bring the laundry in from the balcony.
    We are staying in a place called Cacabelos, and just had a swim, very quick in my case, in a freezing river. There are small bits of snow up against the shadier buildings, so it is definitely a microclimate. It's famous for wines, cherries which I was picking earlier, and chestnuts. We walked past loads of meat procesors too, so also cecina, hams, chorizos and other dried meats. They also sellfridge magnets in the shape of serrano hams and chorizos. Fiona not impressed!    Leggi altro

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  • Cressida BorrettViaggiatoreCress on the Camino Francés 24
    22

    Molinaseca

    18 giugno 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Today has been one of my favourite days so far. We woke up to cloud and rain. The room, and bed, were so cosy I didn't want to leave. However, with full waterproofs and poncho we were on the way by 6.30.
    Up 2km to the iron cross that marks the highest spot on the camino frances. Then a really enjoyable stomp along the road in pouring rain stopping at a food truck with a lovely fire and in a pretty village for first and second breakfasts. I was wearing so much waterproof clothing the climb was hot and sweaty but felt really good.
    After a few hours the rain stopped, I went back on the rocky path and long decent in to Molinaseca. It was a normal mountain track the sort that have had me in tears with knee pain over the last decade. So it was a joy that my knees didn't hurt or do anything they usually do going downhill. I didn't fall over either. That and the amazing smell from all the wild herbs and roses when the sun finally got to them made it a lovely walk.
    The village of Molinaseca is very pretty, timber houses, many falling down and some promising food options which we are off to explore.
    Pity it was too wet for my phone (most of these pictures are Fiona's) as there was the best mistranslation on an official road sign yet. (Thought of Par, Portia)    Leggi altro

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  • Cressida BorrettViaggiatoreCress on the Camino Francés 24
    1
    1

    Mountains again

    17 giugno 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    After a better than expected sleep in the dorm at last night's hostel the path set off from a few meters away, long and straight until coffee about 4km in. Then another coffee after a few more small villages in increasingly beautiful countryside. Scrubby spanish oak woodlands that as we went gently up became gallician pines (tall ones like in England) and then the little oaks again. My foot was hurting a bit so I distra ted myself by counting 31 different wildflowers over less than 1km. These included everything from thistles to heather, clover, thyme,broom, daisies, lavender and wild dog roses to things I don't know the names of. If you were here Panda, you would be walkin g v ery slowly collecting seeds and photos
    After Rabanal, a lovely village which survives on the camino, the hill became steeper and I enjoyed a 6km uphill walk through stunning woods. We are now in our hotel for today, looking over the moun tains and thinking about a shower. There's a very black cloud overhead so we might finally get wet tomorrow.
    Apologies for typos and any out of focus photos. I didn't bring the right glasses, nd am usually too tired tocheck on what I'm posting properly.    Leggi altro

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  • Cressida BorrettViaggiatoreCress on the Camino Francés 24
    2

    Astorga

    16 giugno 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    The veggie hostel last night provided a really nice vegetable cous cous, and space to give my foot some tlc, which seems to have helped. Today started sunny with a lovely walk through beautiful countryside, where I walked for a while with a Hungarian spanish professor, and talked in Spanish which is unusual, English being the international language.
    Half way along we came to the famous donativo Fiona has been talking about. There is every snack you could ever want, drinks and stuff and you just make a donation. I talked to an argentinian cyclist who has been camped out there for 10 days.
    After a rest we came down in to Astorga, a town that exists because of the pilgrimage route in the middle ages but doesn't do much to welcome pilgrims. The crazy multistorey green iron bridge across a railway line that probably has 10 trains a day is just what you need after walking 15 miles.
    The town seemed nice though and Gaudís episcopal palace was stunning. I was enjoying wandering around looking at the ceramics, when I suddenly realized they had chucked everyone else out and closed for lunch. My backpack was locked in the reception building and we had to ask to get a very grumpy person to let us back in to get it.
    We are now 4km further on in a village albergue (hostel) which seems nice and a lot busier than last night.    Leggi altro

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  • Cressida BorrettViaggiatoreCress on the Camino Francés 24
    11

    Back walking

    15 giugno 2024, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    I did the sensible thing today, taking the traditional route along the road just incase I needed a bus or taxi. Fiona took the longer prettier route and we met up at Albergue Verde her favourite hostel. With the help of painkillers I managed the 25km but my foot and ankle still hurt. Dr Google thinks its extensor tendonitis, so I willjust have to take each day as it comes. There are people walking with far worse Injuries, some have had to give up.
    This hostel is lovely, €16 a night, vegetarian and very relaxed. Only 3 of us staying at the moment so I'm not sure how they make a living. The town is like something out of a kids book about the middle ages. Long cobbled bridge which you can just imagine a knight in armour galloping across. I could do with a bit of food so will probably go and investigate. It was so cold this morning all the bars along the way stayed shut, so no coffee or breakfast until quite late. The sky is bright blue but the wind is icy and my hands went numb.    Leggi altro

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  • Cressida BorrettViaggiatoreCress on the Camino Francés 24
    1

    Resting in Leon

    14 giugno 2024, Spagna ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    Day off and a lie in. What a luxury. We visited Gaudís dragon building this morning. It's really beautifully designed down to every last detail and would be an achievement even today. The dragon in the photo is a replica of the original which had a tube containing documents and the plans, hidden by Gaudí.
    Other than that we just wandered around, ate random not memorable food and am now resting and looking out of the window at the lovely derelict patio.    Leggi altro

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  • Cressida BorrettViaggiatoreCress on the Camino Francés 24

    Made it to Leon

    13 giugno 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    I decided to walk today, although most people take the bus to avoid walking through the outskirts of Leon. It was only 18km, which is just as well as my latest ailment (pain in right foot) has got worse. The other ones have all gone away. I self diagnose tendon damage through overuse but will consult a chemist tomorrow. We followed Fiona's policy of always stopping in the second bar for breakfast. On the basis that being second, they try harder, and the coffee is better. This one in the third of several villages beginning with V had a coffee accompanied by 2 free cakes, which if you spoke Spanish you got to choose, for €1.50 . Free food with all drinks is a thing in the province of Leon so we haven't had to buy much. They don't cater for vegetarian s mind.
    Leon city is lovely, and I have no idea why it has taken me 60 years to visit. We are staying in a very nice room in the historic city centre in a building that looks semi derelict from the outside. The cathedral is stunning, one of the few that will stand out in my memory. Gothic at its best with lovely stained glass windows., and possibly an influence on Gaudí s Sagrada Familia, as he was here. More about that tomorrow.
    There is also an art materials shop next door to the hotel, so after looking for one for 10 days, I was finally able to replace the pen I need for drawing.
    This evening we had a drink with David, who lives in Malaga, and who we have been bumping in to and having meals with for 2 weeks now, in one of the hundreds of bars, all heaving. Even the pigeons are enjoying tapas, which come free when you buy a drink. Apparently, today is university day, when the students finish, so having asked for a quiet room at the back of the hotel, there is still a buzz of noise in the background which will go on all night. It won't stop me sleeping though.    Leggi altro

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  • Cressida BorrettViaggiatoreCress on the Camino Francés 24

    More roman road stomping

    12 giugno 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Dawn saw us back on the Roman Road, in my case with sore feet from early on, and a puffy ankle. It was very much a one foot in front of the other whilst po during whether the roman armies, traders, Charlemegne and pilgrims before us walked as slow as me, or as fast as Fiona. The highlight was a stork taking off from a few feet away. And arriving. Mansilla is a lovely town, with a lovely river which we had hoped to swim in but the weather was too cold. We did have a really nice meal though, best yet probably, and I met a ceramics professor so had a nice time talking about clay.Leggi altro

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  • Cressida BorrettViaggiatoreCress on the Camino Francés 24
    11

    Roman road

    11 giugno 2024, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Today we walked about 32km. Fiona's app said it would be 29, and my feet are not impressed. Knowing it was going to be a long one we were out on the road by 6am when it was a mere 3 degrees C. Good for fast walking. We were rewarded with a beautiful sunrise and wholemeal croissants after 14Km, in Sahagún. That's the midway point on our walk, 385km or thereabouts, and you can pay 2 euros and get a halfway certificate from the museum,which we did. It is very pretty and all that but says nothing about halfway so another pilgrim myth. The church museum was good though, even has a mummy.
    After heading out of Sahagún the path splits and we chose the roman road for the next two days. Another myth is that you shouldn't walk it as there are cobblestones, but actually it has a sandy top. We were the only people on it, and as F was half a mile ahead as usual I had it to myself. Beautiful big skies, scrub and wild flowers including French lavender on both sides. Even aching feet didn't spoil it.
    We are now in a small village in a nice hostel with only 5 guests all of whom we have met before. We had a reasonably edible (by my fussy standards) meal after spending the afternoon drawing in the garden again.    Leggi altro

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