Reset search
Cress on the Camino PrimitivoCress on the Camino Primitivo
Edit route

Cress on the Camino Primitivo

May – July 2025
  • Cressida Borrett
Current
I am back walking. The Primitivo is allegedly the original route, hence the name. It's also supposed to be the toughest route. We start tomorrow from Villaviciosa walking to Oviedo and then southwest over the mountains to Galicia and Santiago. Read more
  • Cressida Borrett
Currently traveling

List of countries

  • Spain Spain
Categories
None
  • 271kilometers traveled
Means of transport
  • Flight-kilometers
  • Walking-kilometers
  • Hiking-kilometers
  • Bicycle-kilometers
  • Motorbike-kilometers
  • Tuk Tuk-kilometers
  • Car-kilometers
  • Train-kilometers
  • Bus-kilometers
  • Camper-kilometers
  • Caravan-kilometers
  • 4x4-kilometers
  • Swimming-kilometers
  • Paddling/Rowing-kilometers
  • Motorboat-kilometers
  • Sailing-kilometers
  • Houseboat-kilometers
  • Ferry-kilometers
  • Cruise ship-kilometers
  • Horse-kilometers
  • Skiing-kilometers
  • Hitchhiking-kilometers
  • Cable car-kilometers
  • Helicopter-kilometers
  • Barefoot-kilometers
  • 19footprints
  • 74days
  • 204photos
  • 45likes
FollowCalendarShareBucket list
Oldest first
  • Cressida BorrettTravelerCress on the Camino Primitivo
    1

    The end, for now

    June 6 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We arrived in Santiago yesterday in the rain, said goodbye to the last of our camino friends and met up with Caroline and Catherine who were on the camino portugués.
    Over so quickly, but a lovely walk.Read more

  • Cressida BorrettTravelerCress on the Camino Primitivo

    That went quickly

    June 4 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Last full day of walking before reaching Santiago so I am feeling sad. But also happy as unlike last year I know there will be many more caminos and my relationship with this beautiful part of Spain will continue. There is lots more Godello and Albarin̈o to drink and tortilla and flan to eat.
    Not many photos today as it was drizzling when we left so I wore my rain poncho for the first 3 hours. It makes reaching for my phone a pain.
    I was surprised by how little I remembered of the route from last year, so it wasn't boring and the 31km went by faster than expected. Some beautiful woods.    Read more

  • Cressida BorrettTravelerCress on the Camino Primitivo
    1

    Ribadiso

    June 3 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We were up and out before 7 this morning after being tortured by a couple of mosquitoes all night. And another foam mattress that roasts you from below.
    The day started overcast and cool, more farmland and an uphill section that looked a bit like Scotland, complete with heather. Then down through eucalyptus plantations into some sort of area of interest where there were petroglyphs in the shape of a foot. From the bronze age. Then Melide appeared in the distance and we were soon back in civilization. Hojaldre de manzana for breakfast, possibly more than one.
    Then on to the path again where it combines with the French route we walked last time. It seemed quieter but soon stalls selling things along the way soon appeared and we met a couple of texan girls and a couple from Long Ditton.
    My favourite hut selling coffee liqueur and tarta de Santiago is still here, so we had a chat with the owner, bought more, and continued to Ribadiso where Fiona stayed two years ago. Nice hotel in a cute hamlet, swimming pool and a restaurant across the road. I'm starting to feel sad now we are getting so close to Santiago but the tendonitis from last year has started to swell a bit so it might be just as well.    Read more

  • Cressida BorrettTravelerCress on the Camino Primitivo
    111

    Short day to As Seixas

    June 2 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    After a swim and a nice meal last night, we went to bed really early, expecting a nice long sleep in our peaceful hamlet. The only noisy resident being a donkey called Onion. No chance. At midnight I was woken rudely by three galician peasants advertising something on the huge much-too-big-for- the- room tv at the end of the bed. I couldn't find the remote, but when I did, it was obvious someone had programmed it to come on. After that, the wooden ceiling creaked loudly at regular intervals, so it was a good thing we had a slow start this morning. With only 10km to walk, we had a leisurely coffee and toast in the bar attached to the hotel before leaving. The walk was through more rolling countryside, mint, foxgloves, and nettles growing along the side of the road. Tiny hamlets with no services, few people and lots of cows, chickens,and a peacock.
    Fiona finally confirmed my suspicions that she is mad by walking in a zig zag along the road a few hundred meters in front of me. 10km is a worryingly short distance for her, even though we have two long days coming up, so the zigzags have added a few meters....
    Talking about mad, we did make a short detour to see a leather workshop run by a very excentric guy from Alicante who is living in one of the abandoned farms. Long grey hair and hippy clothes. Didn't seem to have heard of trump but thought world peace could be achieved by anarchy or communism. We didn't stay to find out which.
    We are now at a tiny hostel with only 9 beds and a communal supper. Our room is sort of suspended above the living area and has a nice hot shower, which I'm about to warm up in as it's only 14c today.    Read more

  • Cressida BorrettTravelerCress on the Camino Primitivo

    Part 2

    June 1 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    After our day exploring Lugo and managing at least 12km on our "rest day", we were back walking again today. Out of the city along the miño river and up past large houses and holiday homes into farmland that looked a lot like Devon. A boring road walk for over 5km which Fiona really didn't like, but the hedgerow was pretty and I saw 3 storks. I think we have been spoilt by the stunning scenery in Asturias last week. It looked a bit like England probably looked before everything was gentrified in the last 50 years. Cute cottages but no manicured laws or bmw's, mercs and audis.
    There were very few signs of life until we came to a little building with a nice big disabled loo and some tables to eat, a microwave and some vending machines. We had brought food with us, so ate it there surrounded by people we don't know. What a difference staying behind for a day makes.
    The second part of the 24km walk took us off into woodland and on proper paths. Sweet chestnuts with 5 trunks, ancient oaks, pine and eucalyptus getting hillier as the day went on. The only other place to stop was 4km short of here, a nice bar with another huge disabled loo, even though there didn't seem to be wheelchair access to the bar. I am guessing they were giving out grants a couple of years ago.
    The hotel we are staying in is new, very nice, swimming pool in a glass box which we are sitting by now. It is overcast, thick grey cloud, which is a relief after all that road walking. My feet feel pounded and tired.    Read more

  • Cressida BorrettTravelerCress on the Camino Primitivo

    Day off in Lugo

    May 31 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    After saying goodbye to our camino family over a meal last night, we were looking forward to a good long sleep. No chance. The apartment was still like a furnace so all the windows were open to let in cool air and street noise. At about 2 the municipal rubbish guys decided to empty the recycling bins in our road. Those partially underground ones. It was so loud! Grating squeaking metal for a long time. We had a lie in though and spent the morning walking the roman walls and exploring Lugo. In the basement of the market there was a lace fair with people making lace and selling the stuff needed to do it. A group of gallegos in their regional outfits was singing and playing tambourines and the bag pipes which are the local instrument. They sound nicer than scotish ones, less jarring.Read more

  • Cressida BorrettTravelerCress on the Camino Primitivo
    1

    Lugo

    May 30 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We arrived in Lugo, just 99km from the end, after a short 12km walk in building muggy heat. We rented a lovely apartment for 2 nights, bought a watermelon and collapsed in the heat. It is too hot to do anything until later this afternoon when it cools down.
    There was a thunderstorm in the night but it hasn't made any difference so I am very glad that tomorrow is a rest day.
    Nothing spectacular in the scenery today. Gentle rolling farmland practically to the walls of the city, which on first impression is worth a visit. On arrival we had breakfast with most of the people we have got to like on this journey, and who we will not see after tonight as they will be walking on tomorrow. That is one of the strange things about the people side of this walking. Sometimes you meet someone for a couple of hours, other times you feel like you are getting to know them and then we all go our seperate ways and never meet again. Also met a gorgeous salamander on the way in.    Read more

  • Cressida BorrettTravelerCress on the Camino Primitivo
    11

    Perfect afternoon

    May 29 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    We have arrived in a remote hostal and are sitting in the garden under a tree with other people we met along the way and a pet duck who cuddles up to your feet. It's about 32C today and the perfect place to be, if only there was something to swim in.
    Today's walk was easier, mostly through woods, and past a gorgeous church.
    Breakfast in Castroverde and water melon in Gondar. Then a walk through a,wood on my own which was,a bit spoiky to this hamlet which is off the route. The hostel is in an ancient farmhouse with antique furniture and we are all struggling to stay awake    Read more

  • Cressida BorrettTravelerCress on the Camino Primitivo
    1

    The toughest of walks

    May 28 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    If yesterday's brutal ascent to A Fonsagrada was tough, it had nothing on today. We knew it was going to be very hot, so reluctantly put the alarm on for 6 and were on the road 40 mins later. The pattern of a big ascent continued, followed by a very long decent into a valley, repeat several times over 7 hours and you have the idea. We didn't really see any signs of habitation for most of the morning and only one bar, where an Ecuadorian was selling very good tortilla. Fiona's phone says we ascended 840m which is nearly Snowdon, and we have done that for 9 out of the last 10 days which is why I'm so tired. The walking was mostly through forest, rolling green mountains all around and everyone seemed to be overtaking me. I arrived about an hour after Fiona and co.
    We had a menu lunch at the only place here, 14 euros for a big salad, chicken and chips and flan (of couse) and a whole bottle of white wine which Dave and Alex helped with.
    It's still roasting hot so I'm relaxing in the room until it cools. Fiona could probably walk the same again so is wandering around.    Read more

  • Cressida BorrettTravelerCress on the Camino Primitivo

    A Fonsagrada, Galicia

    May 27 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Last night's hostel meal was huge and homemade. Very cold in the dinning room and I got chilled and shivery so couldn't get to sleep. This morning we were soon back walking uphill, 400m to the top wondering if I had dreamt about about being cold as the sweat splashed into my eyes. It was a lovely walk above the clouds with a coffee stop where we caught up with everyone including the Fuengirola contingent. 21km later and crossed into Galicia, A Fonsagrada sat on a hill ahead. 1 last km of vertical gravelly hell in hot sun. However the hostel is gorgeous, and we had the best lunch in a restaurant with Gustavo and Fina. Fiona's spanish is really good now and it was really enjoyable. We are probably going back for supper with the "giris" group (non spanish) I am enjoying being able to speak to nearly everyone rather than being trapped by lack of language. Had a sign language conversation with some slovakians earlier. They must feel very isolated.Read more

  • 2025© FindPenguins
  • Home
  • About us
  • Group Tracking
  • Press
  • Terms
  • Privacy Policy & Cookies
  • Help Center
  • Legal notice