Bayonne Has Charmed Me

I am sitting on a ruined wall overlooking morning traffic and the River Adour, church bells are marking the hour, a boat swings gently on the current of the river.

My 1st night in a Hostel de Pelegrinos (Refuge Saint Jacques, Rue Grosse, €12 bed + breakfast + Carnet de Pelegrino) was easy and pleasant. The other pilgrims are from France and Spain: I could speak with some and muddle through broken conversation with the others. The hostelero (volunteer inn keeper) is a wonderful gentleman whose name I have not yet learned.

I did have a brief moment of concern (ok, almost panic) when I could not find the passport/money that I somehow stuffed into my rainjacket inside a stuff sack inside a daypack inside my backpack..... Packing inception! Juuust before panic set in I sorted it out. The upside is that now my pack is much more organized/ arranged! Yay!

It has been a long time since I've found myself in a place where I cannot communicate both clearly and easily, I love it! Perhaps it is time I learn French?

Taking the Flexibus from Bilbao was 'easy' but for the sake of reminding myself or others (should I flatter myself that someone may read this for travel info): the bus arrived 4 minutes before scheduled departure and only then did it appear on the departure screens. The bus left 6 minutes later. I'm glad I was attentive! Also, the QR code ticket did not work at the turnstiles, but a friendly worker was happy to let me through.... You gotta ask!
The bus does specifically say that they have restrooms. They do not. Which proved uncomfortable but not terrible for a few hours.

Getting a front-row seat was very worth it! The landscape is beautiful.

In Bayonne...
I arrived and found the hostel (Merci, google maps!) Then took a welcomed hot shower and washed some clothes.... Note to self: 3 days in a merino shirt is amazingly only a little stinky but 2 would be better. Then I set out to look around at about 7pm.... In full daylight. The sun sets near 9.

This town is enchanting. Narrow pedestrian streets wind through tall walls of shuttered windows... Red and blue accents seem to predominate, with tiny balconies. I do not know how many are residential vs. commercial and I'd love to get into some of the buildings to look around; perhaps next visit.

I sat on a terrace near the river for dinner and splurged on a variety platter with a very nice glass of local white wine- dry and crisp with flavors of stone fruits, melon, and fresh grass. Reminds me of a pinot gris/Sauvignon blanc mix and paired very well with the ambiance.

My waitress very patiently endured my painfully bad French, despite the fact her English is near-perfect, for which I am grateful.

The total cost of the meal was less than €30 and would have cost at least 50% more in California.

Fairly-priced, delicious food has been a constant so far.

I am happy, content, and full of wonder at how fortunate I am to be able to travel safely this way. What a privilege!Read more