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Croatia, Greece & Italy
  • Debi Shaw
  • Debi Shaw

Croatia, Greece & Italy

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  • Debi ShawCroatia, Greece & ItalyPengembara

    Last Supper with the Secret Six, Split

    20 September 2024, Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    After our morning white water rafting adventure we took some timeout to relax before heading into Split for dinner. This is our last stop on our eight day cruise and thankfully we have a couple more days to explore after we disembark.

    Split is such a nice town and after Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, it is the second largest city. The city was founded as a Greek colony in the 3rd or 2nd century BCE and in 305 CE, it became the site of the Palace of the Roman emperor Diocletian. While very little remains from the Palace, old town Split is situated within the old palace walls.

    Ross and Wendy managed to find and secure an amazing restaurant for our last night together as the “Secret Six” called Grego Levante. Named after the wind that blows from the Greek coast towards to Adriatic, this fabulous restaurant is located within the western walls of Diocletian’s palace, and it has such an amazing feel. Food was delicious and cocktails were a great price. Followed by a gelato from one of our new favourite gelato shops, it was a great way to end our cruising experience with our new friends.    Baca lagi

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    Split, Croatia

    21 September 2024, Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    After cruising the Dalmatian Coast for the past eight days, our cruise has come to an end. While the cruise experience could have done with some small improvements, overall it has been a great experience, made even better by the people we met and bonded with on our first day onboard. After an early breakfast we disembarked, farewelling many of our fellow travellers. With time to kill we spent the morning with Gill and Steph while they also waited for ferries and planes to catch. We just weren’t ready to say goodbye.

    Finally with our sad goodbyes said we made our way to our accommodation to drop off our luggage, put on some washing and then headed back out to see Split in the daylight. Being a Saturday when cruises were ending and starting there were a lot of people in town. We managed to make our way to the fresh fruit and veggie markets to buy some juicy peaches, wandered through the gates to Old Town and marvelled once again at the history of this place. It certainly is a bustling town.

    We settled on a restaurant on the Riva promenade for a lunch of pizza and a local beer and wine and it was a pleasant stop. After a bit more exploring and admiring the town we opted for a night in so I could rest my bruise covered legs, the result from the cliff jumping incident, with plans to head out early the next day before the town fills with tourists again.    Baca lagi

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    Morning Walk in Split, Croatia

    22 September 2024, Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We woke early this morning to wander the streets of Split before it filled with crowds. With over 900 000 tourists visiting a year, we have found that Split is very, very busy. On our walk this morning we discovered there was a huge triathlon on today so that would make it even busier and we were happy with our decision to venture out before breakfast.

    The first square that captured our eye as we walked to the Old Town gates was Prokurativa Square. Said to have begun sometime in the mid-19th century, the mayor's intentions were to showcase the fact that the city of Split had a culture deep seeded and rich in Italian tradition and that it supported Italian tradition whole heartedly. This is the reason why the architecture of the square was very similar to Italian buildings from the same era. It is certainly eye-catching with its bright colours compared to many of the stone buildings in town.

    The next square we entered was the
    People's Square or Narodni Trg, a popular, attractive piazza just outside the Iron Gate. The buildings here are softly coloured and very interesting and is home to many restaurants and bars and dotted by beautiful stone buildings. Since the 14th century the square has been a central meeting area overlooked by an impressive Renaissance clock with a medieval sundial and belfry. It is a very inviting and pretty square.

    One of the major attractions in the city of Split, is Diocletian's Palace, an imposing Roman ruin built in 305 AD. The ruins of the palace are among the most valuable buildings on the Adriatic coast from the Roman era. Even though the palace remained vacant for several centuries many residents took refuge at the palace in an attempt to escape a Croat invasion in the 7th century.

    Nowadays for the most part, the Palace isn’t really a palace anymore but its complex and winding streets are packed with shops, restaurants, and bars, and it is buzzing with people throughout the day and night. Nevertheless, there are still many buildings that remain that give Split its unique feel.

    Peristyle Square is the central square and heart of Diocletian's Palace and is now a meeting place that is overlooked by a 3500 year old sphinx and imposing columns that were shipped from Egypt. It is believed that Emperor Diocletian would appear at the square and have his subjects approach him. It is one of the popular tourist attractions although it is well frequented by the locals as well and we were lucky to finally see it fairly empty. Early morning outings do have their benefits.

    There are so many more historic sites through the old town of Split and we managed to admire as many as possible before the crowds hit. Feeling quite bruised and battered still we chose to return to our apartment to rest a bit before heading out again.    Baca lagi

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    Dinner & Drinks with Old Friends, Split

    22 September 2024, Croatia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    To end our time in Split we once again met up with Wendy and Ross who now feel like old friends and had a lovely dinner at Skalonada, a seafood and steak restaurant with a lovely feel. It is funny how you can just meet some people and click. We shared yet another lovely night with them

    We ended the night trying to find the perfect location for our last cocktails in Split and made our way to a rooftop bar only to discover the drinks was beyond overpriced. After a few photos of the fabulous view we opted out of cocktails there and managed to grab a table at Picasso Pizza & Bar, a bright and colourful bar. A couple of cocktails later and we once again bid goodbye to our new friends. A lovely way to farewell Split as well.    Baca lagi

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    Trogir, Croatia

    23 September 2024, Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We farewelled Split this morning and made our way to Trogir, a short distance from Split. We immediately loved this town as it has the small town vibe we love to experience. Split just seemed to be missing that for us and Trogir has it all.

    According to the UNESCO World Heritage Sites profile on Trogir, the remarkable orthogonal street plan of The island of Trogir, the old town, dates back to the ancient times
    when the Greeks found it in the
    3rd century BC. Often cited as "Little Venice", it is gorgeous from all angles and it topped National Geographic's list of best Island Cities in 2015.

    Trogir is known for having a historic centre which is considered the most preserved medieval town in Central Europe and is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Centre. Europe's first pharmacy is believed to have opened in Trogir in the year 1271.

    This town is one picturesque laneway after another and we quickly dropped off our bags to explore more. Not only is the town centre lovely, the promenade is a wonderful wide inviting space lined with restaurants and cocktail bathes overlooking the clear blue waters. We decided to sit and enjoy some lunch at one of the restaurants and just as we were about to order we spotted Wendy and Ross walking past. They had decided to stop and explore the town on their way to their next stop. So our farewell dinner from the previous night ended up being a farewell lunch in another town. It was a lovely surprise to see them again and enjoy one more meal together.

    Once lunch was over we parted ways (again) and continued exploring all that Trogir had to offer.    Baca lagi

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    Kamerlengo Fortress, Trogir, Croatia

    23 September 2024, Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    At the end of the Trogir waterfront sits the 15th-century Kamerlengo Castle or Kamerlengo Fortress. Kamerlengo Castle and the former medieval city walls (destroyed to facilitate the growth of the town), once formed a strong defence for Trogir, especially during the period of Venetian rule (15th to 18th century).

    While the castle is quite shabby, the views from the top tower of the town and the Adriatic Coast were worth the visit.    Baca lagi

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    Cathedral of St Lawrence, Trogir

    23 September 2024, Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Next was a visit to the Cathedral of Saint Lawrence, also known as Trogir Cathedral. There are a large number of churches in Trogir but this was the only one open to visit. Many are now homes and businesses.

    Construction on the Cathedral began in the 13th century, however it took several centuries to complete it resulting in it’s mixed architectural style which includes Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque.

    I especially loved the sculpted entrance, commonly referred to as Radovan's Portal (named after its sculptor, 13th-century Croatian Master Radovan). It is so detailed and intricate and it is mind blowing to imagine how they mastered such fine details in stone and marble. Truely impressive.

    The interior of the chapel was also impressive with its beautiful chapels and the collection of valuable religious art and artefacts.    Baca lagi

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    Afternoon Exploration of Trogir

    23 September 2024, Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    The cathedral forms part of Trogir's central square which is the heart of Trogir. Filled with lovely cafes and bars it is quite small, but it is surrounded by historic buildings and landmarks including the 14th century Town Hall and the 15th century Town Loggia.

    Trogir Town Loggia's origins date back to the 15th century when it served as the hub for political and social life in the town. Decorated with stone carvings, arches and columns and an interesting and rustic wooden ceiling, it is the back drop to the square. It once served as a courtroom and the judge’s desk is still located there.

    Next to the Loggia is what remains of Saint Sebastian church, now known as the City Clock Tower. With its pale blue clock face and gold hands it is a striking structure in the square.

    After exploring the historic buildings surrounding the square we continued exploring until our feet were sore and it was “gelato time”. After such a big day we opted for a night in to refresh and relax in preparation for the next day. Trogir was truely won us over and we are looking forward to enjoying more.    Baca lagi

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    Terrific Trogir, Croatia

    24 September 2024, Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    After an early morning storm, which meant a lie in for us, we headed out to enjoy some more time in Trogir. Being that it is such a small town and we had seen the main sites yesterday, today was all about enjoying the food and cocktails and just exploring the laneways and promenade.

    We had a late breakfast/early lunch at Calebotta, a cafe in the square right out our front door. Delicious and fresh with some well made cocktails, it was a nice way to start our day. Followed up with another cocktail on the promenade it was a cocktail kind of day.

    We ended our day with dinner at Capo Restaurant where we enjoyed some more traditional style meals, and you guessed it, a couple more cocktails. A few night time snaps and we called it a night. It was the perfect day relaxing in this best little town.    Baca lagi

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    Long Day Waiting… Finally Athens

    25 September 2024, Greece ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    Today we farewelled beautiful Trogir with brunch on the promenade before making our way to the airport for our quick flight to Athens. If only we knew we would be spending the next five plus hours waiting for our plane that was delayed numerous times. Eventually at the end of a long day waiting we finally made it to Athens, our base for the next five nights.

    Eager to see if Athens had changed much since we were last here in 2018 and feeling a bit hungry we dropped off our bags and hit the streets. At 9.30 at night we did not expect to see so many people just heading out for dinner. Athens is bustling, more than last time, but it is also grittier and sadly graffiti now covers most buildings. There also appears to be a real issue with drugs and alcohol wi the lots of people loitering in the streets and this is the first time I have felt a bit unsafe.

    Eager for my first gyros we found a place in the main square to have a quick bite before calling it a night. I don’t think we have ever had dinner at 10.30pm. It was worth it though. Only the Greek know how to make a good gyros.    Baca lagi

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    Church of the Holy Apostle Philip, Athen

    26 September 2024, Greece ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    After a well deserved lie in we started reacquainting ourselves with Athens. While the Monastiraki and Plaka districts are still relatively the same, other parts have grown making the area quite expansive. In our wanderings we came across a church we hadn’t visited on our previous visit and of course we had to check it out.

    We love the Italian churches for their architecture and art and the Greek churches are so different but just as impressive. They are beautifully covered with colourful frescos, walls and ceilings, not a surface not covered. They are also dark and solemn which disappointing makes them hard to photograph, but perfect for worship.

    The Church of the Holy Apostle Philip was built in 1866 on the remains of an older church which had undergone a massive attack during the siege of the city of Athens (1826-1827) and had dated back to the 9th century. The writings and drawings of various travelers give information about the original church. The church suffered from several damages through the years and in the year 1961 a major restoration of the church building took place. This restoration included the removal of all modern interventions of the past years and the return of the building to its original basilica shape. While very simple in the outside the interior was such a pleasant surprise.    Baca lagi

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    Little Kook, Athens

    26 September 2024, Greece ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Next stop was back to the quirky cafe we visited on our first trip and boy has it grown. What was once a small cafe at the end of a lane is now a laneway with the buildings on each side all part of the business. Little Kook is a cafe specialising in very delicious sweets and desserts operating since 2015. It does spectacular seasonal displays and being well are here so close to Halloween and Autumn, that is the theme. We last visited at the same time so were expecting the same display as last time but amazingly that was not the case. We thought the decorations last time were over the top. It this year is even more so.

    Every window front up the laneway is so elaborately decorated and what was once the cafe is now just a display room filled with even more decor. Over the top and fabulous and even the staff dressed the part.

    And the food is amazing with a menu to suit the season and names to suit the theme. For example there were cocktails called Dark Blood and White Skull. While it wasn’t as cheap as some of the sidewalk cafes we have visited, it was worth the few extra Euros to enjoy the atmosphere and the food and we had a lovely morning there.    Baca lagi

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    Exploring Athens

    26 September 2024, Greece ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    After our sweet treat at Little Kook we needed to walk it off so spent the next couple of hours walking and exploring. As we had visited the ancient Acropolis on our last visit we opted not to walk up there this time as the time was a bit warmer than expected. We were happy to admire from afar. We passed so many ancient ruins, popped into another church or two and wandered through the crowds at the Plaka and Monastiraki flea markets and shops. It is basically just long stretch of tourist shops now with the odd gem of a shop tucked away in the middle. I have no idea how they all stay in business selling basically the same trinkets.

    Feeling quite hot we stopped for a lovely light lunch of a Greek salad and grilled halloumi and a couple of refreshing cocktails before succumbing to the Greek way of an afternoon siesta. Time to cool down and rest our weary feet.

    Once it has cooled down we headed back out for another stroll around town before sharing a delicious Greek pizza for dinner followed with a refreshing pineapple and coconut ice block. Not our usual gelatos and just perfect on a warm night. Full and tired we headed to bed as we have an early start tomorrow with a tour booked to see the Meteora Monasteries.    Baca lagi

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    “Art” in Athens

    26 September 2024, Greece ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Our last time in Athens it was a “gritty” place but it featured lots of amazing street art. This time is feels just grimy in places with graffiti covered everything it can. There is very little street art left which was disappointing. Athens certainly has lost a lot of its “gritty” vibe.

    The other touches of art were shown in the shop displays and some of the items being sold, some of which were quite interesting.    Baca lagi

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    Churches in Athens

    26 September 2024, Greece ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Of course we popped into every church we came across, even those we visited last time. It is amazing how different the churches are in different countries. It Italy it seems to be more about the art that is added whereas in Greece the art is the walls and ceiling as every space is painted and frescoed. They are also a lot darker than the many we have visited in Italy but still totally amazing.

    The church that always draws me in is the Church of Panagia Kapnikarea, one of the oldest churches in Athens. Believed to have been built around 1050, it was built over an Ancient Greek temple dedicated to the worship of a goddess. Thankfully it was saved from demolition and sits in the centre of the modern day Athens, right in the middle of a high-traffic shopping area at the edge of the Plaka.

    The next church we came across was tucked away in a quiet side street and we almost missed it. Devoted to the archangels, the Church of Panagia Grigoroussa stands on the site of a former Byzantine chapel. Built between the 11th and 12th century it was almost entirely destroyed during the 1822 revolution. It was rebuilt using materials from the first church as well as materials from other destroyed churches. Adorned with beautiful frescoes we were glad we came across it.

    I know we go on about the churches we see on our travels but are so interesting and amazing. The art that is on display always blows me away and the history of the buildings and awe inspiring architecture always amazes us.    Baca lagi

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    Kalabaka, Greece

    27 September 2024, Greece ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Today we left Athens for an overnight tour to the Meteora monasteries, a few kilometres from the town of Kalabaka. The impressive rocks of Meteora rise from the plains of Thessaly and are the location of the hilltop monasteries I have been wanting to visit for some time. Our plan in 2018 was to drive to the Meteora but Brad got a pretty bad case of vertigo and it wasn’t safe for him to drive so we had to give it a miss.

    While it wasn’t on our original agenda to return to Athens, upon realising we were that close being in Croatia, I just had to add it to our travel itinerary this year. Only difference was that we decided to book a two day tour and leave the driving to someone else. A lot less street and more enjoyable for both of us.

    While I haven’t really enjoyed being back on Athens it has all been worth it as the Meteora and it’s famous monasteries have been amazing. After a five hour bus ride from Athens to Kalabaka, a town at the base of the Meteora, we had some free time to settle into our accommodation before being picked up for our sunset tour. What I did not expect was to see the monolithic rocks towering over the town.

    Kalabaka dates back to the 10th century and was an Ancient Greek settlement originally called Stagoi. With a battered history it was eventually named Kalabaka six or seven centuries ago. It is of Turkish origin and means "powerful fortress". It is a small town with a lot of history and it was nice being back in a less touristy location. We had a quick walk through town before having some lunch before we started our sunset tour.    Baca lagi

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    Magnificent Meteora, Greece

    27 September 2024, Greece ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Our tour guide, Jim, picked us up to start our tour and as soon as we boarded the bus we knew we were in for a fun afternoon. Jim was just brilliant, entertaining, interesting, engaging and informative. One of the best tour guides we have ever had. He told us the history of the area as we started our drive up the mountainous roads, making sure we got to stop at many great photo locations. Just seeing the monasteries perched on top of the Meteora rocks was mind blowing to say the least. Our first photo stop just showed us a glimpse of the vastness and height of this place.

    Many centuries ago, on these gigantic rocks with the breathtaking landscape reaching heights of more than 600 metres, monk originally came to the area seeking solitude and lived in caves naturally formed on the side the mammoth sandstone pillars. Accessible only by ropes and hand made ladders, the monks formed one of the most important monastic communities of Greece.

    The Greek word Meteora means “suspended in the air” and this phrase aptly describes these remarkable Greek Orthodox monasteries perched on top of the steep rocks.

    Today only six monasteries are active with a small number of monks or nuns who reside on Meteora. In 1988, the Meteora monasteries have been included in the UNESCO World Heritage List

    Thankfully Jim stopped at many stops along the away allowing us to photograph and try and capture the grandeur and beauty of this place. Sadly photos just can’t convey the feelings of being here.    Baca lagi

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    Saint Stephen Monastry, Meteora, Greece

    27 September 2024, Greece ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Today’s tour included a visit to one of the six remaining monasteries, the Monastery of Agios Stefania, Saint Stephen. Athens a height of 528 metres this is the monastery of the first-Martyr and Archdeacon Stephan. The origins of the monastery date to the twelfth century and according to an inscription of 1191/2 AD, the ascetic Jeremi-as lived on this rock.

    The first church of St Stephan was erected around 1350 and rebuilt in 1545 by St Philotheos. In 1798 a magnificent new church was erected in honour of St Charalambos and this is now the katholikon, the monastery's main church. It features a remarkable wood-carved altar screen dating from 1814, and equally intricate wood-carved icon stands dating from 1836. And the frescoes are just stunning. I don’t have the adequate words to describe how awe inspiring they are. Sadly we were not permitted to take photos in this stunningly decorated church, however we only found out after we had already taken a couple of snaps so have a few to show some of the amazing walls and ceilings. I could have sat in here for hours just admiring it all.

    It was such a great first stop on what promised to be a great tour and Jon gave us so much history about this place. It is fascinating.    Baca lagi

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    Ascetic Cell of St. Gregory, Meteora

    27 September 2024, Greece ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    On our way to our next stop we took a slight detour and short walk to get a great view of the ascetic cell of Saint Gregory.

    The first ascrics began to come to Metcora as early as the 11th century and at first they created small places of prayer and ascetic cells inside the caves that served as their hermitages. As a result of the awe-inspiring self-denial of these long-suffering ascetics who established the solitary, ascetic way of life on these rocks, Meteora was henceforth regarded as a holy place.

    The first monastic community to be formed in the twelfth century was the Skete of Doupiani with the kyriakon (central church) of Panagia, the Mother of God. The pious cave-dwelling ascetics would gather on Sundays and on important feasts in the kyriakon of Panagia Doupiani on the southwest part of the rock forest above Kastraki.

    During the 14th and 15th centuries the ascetics attempted to ascend to higher rock pillars, with the help of stakes and ropes. Over the centuries a total of forty-one monasteries and hermitages were established.

    It is fascinating seeing the caves that remain, with the ascetic cell of Saint Gregory still displaying the way wood and rope was used to create ladders and platforms.

    We also got to see the Presentation of Christ in the Temple Monastery which is just a facade built into the side of a mountain with the original cave behind.    Baca lagi

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    Kalabaka Byzantine Church, Greece

    27 September 2024, Greece ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Next stop was at the Kalabaka Byzantine Church situated in the old district of Kalabaka. This is an early Christian church built around the 4th or 5th centuries and today it is dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin Mary. It is considered to probably be the most important in the whole region of Meteora mainly due to the many different historical periods incorporated in its architectural features as it underwent numerous restorations over the 17 centuries that it has stood beneath the huge cliffs of Meteora. It is the only church in the world today with an early Christian ambo or pulpit preserved in the center of the nave.

    Jim was so informative about this church, its history and its frescoes, and he even gave us a peek at places not usually accessible to tourists. Once again photos were not permitted but as we originally missed the signs we managed to take a couple. Once again the frescoes were so detailed and amazing.    Baca lagi

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    Dinner in Kalabaka, Greece

    27 September 2024, Greece ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    After an absolutely fabulous but long day we opted for a quick dinner at a restaurant just up from where we were staying. I had the most delicious chicken souvlaki and Brad enjoyed the biggest fried calami we have ever seen. Thankfully it was amazing. The waiter even took Brad in to see where they grill all the meat.

    We also managed to feed a couple of stray dogs and cats, which made my heart sore. I just wanted to take them home and love them. That is one of the hard things to see in Athens. There was even a cat on the rocks with us up at the Meteroa watching the sun set. Who knew where its home was.

    We had an early night as we have another tour in the morning to see more monasteries.    Baca lagi

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    A Lazy Day in Athens

    29 September 2024, Greece ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    After a very tiring two day tour of the Meteora Monasteries and returning to Athens very late last night, we were hoping for a sleep in but with jack hammering starting at 7.30 we were awaken with a start. Not the slow start we wanted but thankfully it didn’t last long. We spent the morning washing and relaxing before deciding to head out for a stroll around town.

    What we did not realise was today was the Run/Walk for Breast Cancer and the streets and cafes were filled with competitors. And being Sunday the one church we stepped into was filled with church goers watching a Christening. Sunday is not a quiet day in Athens.

    To avoid the crowds we decided to return to Taverna Karyatis, Thankfully it wasn’t as busy as the main streets and we were able to get a table in the shade to sit and enjoy yet another delicious lunch and a beer for Brad and a cocktails for me. The perfect way to avoid the crowds and hustle and bustle.    Baca lagi

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    Last Lunch in Athens

    30 September 2024, Greece ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Next on the agenda was lunch and we returned to our favourite spot next to the site of Hadrian’s library, under the trees and vines. We tried a different restaurant today, Ydria Greek bistro, with Brad enjoying a very delicious lunch of Greek lamb chops and I had one of the best burgers I have ever eaten. Coupled with some refreshing cocktails we enjoyed a couple of hours relaxing and enjoying the cooler weather. It was a nice way to end our time in Athens.

    We haven’t been overly impressed with Athens on this trip. It seems to have deteriorated since last time we were here and has been jammed packed with people. Today seemed to have less people about and with the cooling breeze it was nice to enjoy our last day in Athens. Of course we ended our day with a delicious gelato while we counted down the hours until we make our way “home” - Italy that is.    Baca lagi

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