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Croatia, Greece & Italy
  • Debi Shaw
  • Debi Shaw

Croatia, Greece & Italy

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  • Het begin van de reis
    5 september 2024
  • Debi ShawCroatia, Greece & ItalyReiziger

    Our Zagreb Home

    6 september 2024, Kroatië ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We finally arrived in Zagreb and managed to easily find our apartment for the next five days. Located on one of the main tourist streets, it was a fabulous location and a beautiful apartment. Our street is so pretty with and without the crowds and it gave us easy access to everywhere we wanted to visit. We are looking forward to our stay here.Meer informatie

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  • Debi ShawCroatia, Greece & ItalyReiziger
    Entrance to our apartment2

    Hello Zagreb

    7 september 2024, Kroatië ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    After an epic travel fail where we decided to have a nap before planning on heading out to explore, we instead continued to sleep, only to wake up at 2am. Certainly not how we usually start our overseas travels. Thankfully we managed to fall back to sleep and hopefully we are now in the correct time zone.

    We were so exhausted from our flight that we didn’t take much in on our way to our accommodation, so walking out into our street was a pleasant surprise. Zagreb is the underrated capital of Croatia and it is beautiful. It has such a relaxing and welcoming vibe. We know we will enjoy our time here.

    We did a quick stroll up and down our street before finding somewhere to eat so we would be ready to start our first day in Zagreb.    Meer informatie

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    Otto & Frank, Zagreb

    7 september 2024, Kroatië ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    First stop for the day was finding somewhere to eat as we had slept through a few meal times.

    On recommendation from our host, we started the day with a delicious breakfast at Otto & Frank. I had Domaci Brioche which was coconut crusted homemade brioche French toast with honey, vanilla baked peaches, blueberries and Greek yoghurt. It was sublime! Brad had banana bread with Greek yoghurt, nuts, dark chocolate, raspberry coulis, fresh raspberries and mascarpone cream. Very decadent.

    It was a lovely way to start our day and after filling our bellies we were ready to embrace this beautiful town.    Meer informatie

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    The Shrines of Stone Gate, Zagreb

    7 september 2024, Kroatië ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    First stop of the day was the Stone Gate. Dating back to 1242 and revamped in the 18th century, it is more of a passageway than an open gate and it has a small interior area. This is lit by candlelight and shrines line the walls. There are even some pews for people to go and pray.

    It is believed that a painting of Mary and baby Jesus has special powers as it survived a huge fire in 1731. Stone slabs engraved with praise and messages line the walls.

    Just below the Stone Gate sits a large statue of Saint George and the Dragon. Saint George is one of the first knights to rescue a princess and slay a dragon from his white horse.

    In the story a dragon has made a nest for himself next to a spring that provided water to the city of Silene. In order to get the water the people of the city lured the dragon away from the spring with sheep. When they run out of sheep, maidens would be used. They were picked by drawing lots. So it came one day that the king’s daughter was to be offered to the dragon. As the princess was being offered to the dragon, George stumbled into the city, found out what was going on and rushed to slay the monster wearing the sign of the Cross. After he defeated the dragon, the king and all his peoples turned to Christianity.

    I love these stories that add interest to the town’s many historic sites.    Meer informatie

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    The Iconic St Mark’s Church, Zagreb

    7 september 2024, Kroatië ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Next stop was the icon of Zagreb, St Mark’s Church with its stunning rooftop. Photos just don’t do the roof of this 13th century church justice. The bright red and blue tiles glisten against the white church and brilliant blue sky and is unlike any church we have seen before (and we have seen many). The tiles feature the medieval coat of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia alongside the emblem of Zagreb. It is one of the oldest architectural monuments in Zagreb and it is stunning.

    Due the devastating earthquake of 2020 access is now limited so we could only admire the exterior this beautiful building.    Meer informatie

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    Funicular Fun, Zet Uspinjaca, Zagreb

    7 september 2024, Kroatië ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Zagreb is home to the world’s shortest funicular. At only 66 metres long and with the ride lasting just over 30 seconds, it is obviously a bit of fun and maybe mildly pointless. However in the heat of the day it was the easiest way to get from the lower town (Donji grad) to the upper town (Gornji grad). Built in the 1890’s it was the first public transport in the city and not surprisingly, given its size, has never had an accident.

    It certainly was a great way to avoid the stairs.    Meer informatie

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    Noon Boom at Lotrscak Tower, Zagreb

    7 september 2024, Kroatië ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    I had planned our daily itinerary to ensure we arrived at the Lotrscak Tower so we could experience the daily firing of Zagreb’s famous Gric cannon.

    Dating back to the 13th century the tower was built to guard the southern gate of the Gradec town wall. In the 19th century a fourth floor was added to the tower and the Gric cannon was placed on top. Since January 1877, the cannon is fired from the tower at midday, to give the sign for exact noon for the bell-ringers of the city’s churches. It has only ever paused twice - once after the First World War and again recently after the 2020 earthquake.

    One of the legends surrounding the cannon is that a shot from the cannon went right over the river and into the camp of the enemy at that time. It landed smack bang on the leader’s dinner and he was so freaked out by the accuracy of the shot that he was too scared to invade. So the cannon saved Zagreb.

    Even though we were prepared for the bang we still jumped as it was very loud. Once the cannon has been fired the man who fires it waves out the tower window afterwards. What a hard job.

    After the firing of the cannon it was lovely to hear the church bells ringing across the city.    Meer informatie

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    Traditional Food at La Struk, Zagreb

    7 september 2024, Kroatië ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    After the morning spent walking we decided to try another of our host’s suggestions and stop for lunch and a well deserved drink at La Struk. This typical Croatian restaurant only offers one dish, strukli, a Zagreb speciality prepared in a whole host of different variations.

    Zagorski Strukli is a popular traditional Croatian dish served in Zagreb regions in the north of the country. Made from a pastry rolled out flat and very thin, it is layered with cottage cheese and eggs, sour cream and salt and then various fillings. Once it is baked it is served sizzling hot, ready to eat.

    Brad tried Sir Slani (salted cheese) and I tried Bucine Kostice (pumpkin seeds). Both were very different to anything we had tried before and quite delicious. We paired these with a local wine and beer and spent a lovely afternoon relaxing in the restaurant’s outdoor terrace. It was nice to finally sit, cool down and relax.    Meer informatie

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  • Debi ShawCroatia, Greece & ItalyReiziger

    Zagreb Cathedral

    7 september 2024, Kroatië ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Next on the plan was a visit to the Zagreb Cathedral. Those of you that have followed our previous travels would be aware that we love a good church and while doing the research this cathedral was added to our “must see” list. Sadly what my research did not mention was that the cathedral was badly damaged in the 2020 earthquake when one of its two spires was damaged. The cathedral is still under repair so we could only admire the exterior, the parts not covered in scaffolding.

    Zagreb Cathedral is a Roman Catholic cathedral and is dedicated to the Assumption of Mary and to kings Saint Stephen and Saint Ladislaus. It is the second tallest building in Croatia and its prominent spires are considered to be landmarks as they are visible from most parts of the city. The cathedral is 108.4 meters high, making it one of the tallest churches in the world.

    Across from the Cathedral is the Monument of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. At the foot of the pillar are figures of the four apostles - members of the New Testament. Miriam is considered a symbol of renewal and victory and the history of Zagreb is related to King Ladislav - the founder of the monastery on arrival Kaptol and in fact so, the founder of the city.

    The glistening golden statues on the white marble against the brilliant blue sky were very striking. Even though a lot of Zagreb is still under repair, it is great to see that it is happening and progress is being made.    Meer informatie

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    Ban Jelacic Square, Zagreb

    7 september 2024, Kroatië ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    The central square of Zagreb, Ban Jelacic Square, is one we walked through regularly, going from site to site. Named after Ban Josip Jelacic, a Croatian lieutenant field marshal in the Imperial Austrian army and politician, its history began in 1641 as a marketplace. Now surrounded by beautiful historic buildings it is easy to see why it is the place to hold events, markets and of course, the site for the city’s Christmas tree.

    In the centre is an impressive equestrian statue of Ban Josip Jelacic, installed in the square in 1866, it represents one of the best known statues in the county.

    With the sun shining against the buildings or the rain cleaning the cobblestones, this square was impressive in all weather. And it certainly helped us with our bearings every time we ventured out.    Meer informatie

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    Rastoke, Croatia

    8 september 2024, Kroatië ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    What an exhausting but amazing day. We did a 10 hour tour to the village of Rastoke and then onto the UNESCO listed national park, Plitvice Lakes.

    After an informative and entertaining 1 1/2 mini bus ride with our guide Renato we arrived at Rastoke. Located in the town of Slunj, it is known for the Slunjcica River which flows into the Korana River at Rastoke.

    At Rastoke, similar natural phenomena are occurring as at the Plitvice Lakes and Rastoke is sometimes known as "the Small Lakes of Plitvice", and is connected to the Plitvice Lakes by the Korana River.

    During the Homeland War on November 1991, Rastoke was completely destroyed and devastated. They were renewed with the help of the Ministry of Reconstruction and Development. Today, all the households have returned to Rastoke and 30 residents live there now.

    We had time to stroll through the small village, admiring the many waterfalls and waterways. And even though it wasn’t yet 11am, we did enjoy a local wine and beer before making our way to the Plitvice Lakes.    Meer informatie

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    Plitvice Lakes, Croatia

    8 september 2024, Kroatië ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    A short drive later we arrived at the Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia's largest national park covering almost 30,000 hectares.
    The waters flowing over the limestone and chalk have, over thousands of years, deposited travertine barriers, creating natural dams which in turn have created a series of beautiful lakes, caves and waterfalls. These geological processes continue today. The forests in the park are home to brown bears, grey wolves, lynxes and many rare bird species. Thankfully we didn’t see any of the former.

    The magnificent Plitvice lake system is interconnected by many waterfalls and watercourses above and below ground, the lakes are grouped into the upper and lower lakes. We spent the next four hours exploring these. The National Park is amazing and so well set out with natural walkways, wooden paths over the endless waterways, mini bus options to ensure we can see as much as possible and boat rides across the lakes. 12km of walking later, up and down many steps and steep paths, we are exhausted but it was worth it. The amazing turquoise colours of the waters, the crystal clear lakes and the many many flowing waterfalls, it is a very special place to visit. One we would strongly recommend to anyone visiting Croatia.    Meer informatie

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    Otto & Frank… again, Zabreb

    9 september 2024, Kroatië ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    We woke to pouring rain but did not let that deter us from venturing out. I’m not sure if it was due to the weather, or being a Monday or the “early” hour but there wasn’t much open when we hit the streets. So it was an easy decision to return to Otto & Frank for another delicious breakfast.

    This time I ordered the Zagreb Breakfast which is a modern version of traditional Zagreb Breakfast with two crispy baked, crumb covered poached eggs served with cottage cheese, sour cream, horseradish, grilled ham, spinach and spring onions on toasted bread. It was delicious!!!

    Brad chose Sunny Side Up which was fried eggs with bacon and tomato served on grilled white bread with whipped feta and peppers. It was also a delicious meal.

    While we know we should try different places it is hard to pass up a place we know we will get a good meal at.    Meer informatie

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    Cathedral of the Transfiguration, Zagreb

    9 september 2024, Kroatië ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    After breakfast we made our way to the Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Lord, a church we visited the other day but were unable to fully admire as there was a blessing going on. It was a lovely experience listening to the priest chant and sing but I did want to return to admire the fresco covered walls.

    The Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Lord is a Serbian Orthodox cathedral built in 1865–66 according to designs of architect Franjo Klein. While the exterior is quite simple, the interior is covered in wall to wall paintings of Christian saints and the life of Jesus. Most of the paintings are brightly coloured compared to other churches we have visited and are very eye-catching. The iconostasis comprises a total of 34 icons and 4 free-standing walnut pillars, with the Annunciation and the Last Supper placed in the central positions.

    Sadly, the church was badly affected by the 2020 earthquake and is under repair. The interior is filled with scaffolding to provide support and some of the wall paintings do show signs of cracks, but paintings are still visible. Even with the red scaffolding framing the interior of the cathedral, it was still worth a second visit to admire the artistry.    Meer informatie

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    Museum of the Lost Tales, Zagreb

    9 september 2024, Kroatië ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    In my research to find something to do on a rainy day, many of the museums and art galleries were closed, either because it was Monday or due the still being under repair from the 2020 earthquakes. One museum that came up in my search was The Museum of Lost Tales – a House of Wonders from Croatian Folktales, and it looked right up my alley. Those who know me know that I do enjoy and admire art that is abstract and obscure and this museum definitely offered that.

    The Museum of Lost Tales is a unique place where the rich oral heritage of Croatia is presented through the art concept of a transmedia artist – Zdenko Bašić.

    In this place, which spreads over two hundred square metres, we got to experience six different rooms, each presenting a different theme. The entire rooms are artworks themselves, with amazing prints lining the walls, stunning “stain glass” windows and many sculpted scenes, puppet miniatures, hidden hidey holes for fairies and interesting miniature scenes. While a touch on the macabre side with many skeletons and dark mythical creatures, the artistry is simply amazing. I loved every inch of it and the experience was designed to allow visitors to become explorers of seen and unseen creatures, becoming a part of the forgotten tales of Croatia.

    As their website states:
    Sometimes we forget about our ancestors and the wonderful world of oral tales which they spoke of on warm summer nights. The wondrous collection of over hundreds of magical creatures and beings which inhabited their imagination in a time when the world was shared by men and elves.”

    Contemporary artist, Zdenko Bašić, designed this exhibition on his illustrations, then designed sets with puppets and miniatures forming a unique art whole which presentes the tales of old by enveloping all senses. 

    “We invite you to become part of the live art, experience the senses and adventures. Look for the traces of fairies, footsteps of witches, scales of dragons and smells of bogarts; the pit where water men hide, where Moguts fly and many other creatures reside…”

    I thoroughly enjoyed this museum and explored every inch of it, and the fact it had only been open a month, I feel lucky I got to experience it. Thankfully Brad knows me well and was happy to tag along. It was a great way to spend a rainy morning.    Meer informatie

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    Traditional Pastries from Vincek, Zagreb

    9 september 2024, Kroatië ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    Whenever we visit a new town or country we do make an effort to try their local foods and luckily for us Zagreb has quite a few cakes and pastries listed on their traditional food list. A sign we had to try some sweet treats. We made our way to Vince’s, a family owned cake and pastry shop that has been operating for over forty years. With so much on offer it was hard to decide what to try but we made sure to order a kremšnita, one of the most typical Croatian sweets. While there are many variations the Samobor people believe there is only one original - a cube of airy custard cream sandwiched between puff pastry layers. This is how pastry chef Đuro Lukačić imagined it in his recipe from the 1920s.Meer informatie

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    Tunnel Gric, Zagreb

    9 september 2024, Kroatië ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    To return home we made our way to the Art Park (although there was not much art there) to the entrance of the Grič Tunnel. The Grič Tunnel is a pedestrian tunnel located in the centre of the city and consists of a central hall, which is connected by two passageways to the west and the east, and four passageways extending to the south. It was built during World War II to serve both as a bomb shelter and a promenade but following the war it quickly fell into disrepair and disuse. The tunnel saw renewed use only in the 1990s, hosting one of the first raves in Croatia, and functioning as a shelter during the Croatian War of Independence. In 2016, the tunnel was remodeled and opened to the public, serving as a tourist attraction and hosting cultural events. Planned expansions include a museum and a lift but as yet nothing has progressed. While it is just a tunnel, it was a handy shortcut and the lighting and curves made it interesting to photograph.Meer informatie

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    Statues of Zagreb

    9 september 2024, Kroatië ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Zagreb is chock full of statues. There's one or more on nearly every street in the centre and many you can sit and “have a chat” as well as take a photo with. Each has its own story and adds to the interest of Zabreb.

    One on our street is a statue of Croatia’s first female journalist and feminist, although when we first saw it we thought it was Mary Poppins and did wonder why. Now we are informed and know better.    Meer informatie

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    Dolac Markets, Zagreb

    10 september 2024, Kroatië ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Like the majority of European towns we have visited, Zagreb has a large open-air farmers’ market called the Dolac Market. All the stalls have bright cherry red covers on them and it's a colourful, bustling atmosphere as locals mingle, chat and do their food shopping. Running for over 80 years it was the place to buy local produce. Although we haven’t yet cooked on this trip we did purchase some delicious peaches.

    Adjoining the food stalls was the gorgeous flower market, filled with beautiful blooms and unique flower arrangements. As I wanted to be a florist when I was younger, I loved the displays, the flowers and the smells. We did get scolded by one stall holder when I went to take a photo of her stand.    Meer informatie

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    Lovely Ljubljana, Slovenia

    10 september 2024, Slovenië ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Today we did another full day tour starting off with a visit to Ljubljana, the capital and largest city of Slovenia, inhabited since prehistoric times. The old town of Ljubljana is just beautiful with its decorative and lovely coloured historic buildings.

    After a brief tour of the town we were given free time to explore on our own. With the cathedral being closed, there weren’t many building we could enter as such so we just made with wandering the streets, admiring the architecture and enjoying the relaxing vibe of the town.    Meer informatie

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    Ljubljana Cathedral

    10 september 2024, Slovenië ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Our first stop in our wandering was the Ljubljana Cathedral, officially named Saint Nicholas’s Church. We love checking out churches and cathedrals as the history, the architecture and the artistry is always amazing. Unfortunately the cathedral was closed so we had to make do with admiring the exterior with its sculptured bronze doors.

    Originally, Ljubljana Cathedral was built in the early 18th century, and it is an easily recognizable landmark of the city with its green dome and twin towers.

    The entrances have bronze sculptured doors from 1996, created at the 1250s anniversary of Christianity in the Slovenian territory and the visit of Pope John Paul II. The front door, now named the Slovene Door is a depiction of Slovene history to commemorate the 1250th anniversary of Christianity in Slovenia. The side door, now named the Ljubljana Door, is decorated with portraits of the 20th-century bishops of Ljubljana.

    There’s a spot on the front door (bottom right) that’s bright and shiny from everyone rubbing it for good luck! There are also carved statues in the external wall, as well as a colorful religious mural. It was disappointing that we could not experience the interior as I had read good things about it.    Meer informatie

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    Lunch the Ljubljanian Way

    10 september 2024, Slovenië ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    After our stroll around town we stopped to indulge in some traditional Slovenian food for lunch. I am certainly getting a lot better at trying different foods. For lunch I had home-made ragout (ragu) with "Idrijski zlikrofi", traditional Slovenian dumplings. The dumplings were soft and fluffy and the ragout was very tender.

    Brad had the Game Plate which consisted of deer medallions with sour cherry sauce, stag stake with porcini mushroom sauce, wild boar with green pepper sauce, home-made cheese rolls, roasted potatoes and bread dumplings. The deer was very tender and tasty but the wild boar was a bit tough. I know we wouldn’t order either dish again but at least we tried some local foods. It definitely wasn’t worth what we paid for our meals.

    I also tried the local oranzna vina, orange wine, which I wouldn’t order again either. The Slovenian dishes weren’t a hit with us today.

    We followed this with a coffee and home-made lemon drink at another cafe. Another fail as Brad ordered the wrong coffee and his cup was the size of a doll’s cup. It gave us a giggle for sure.    Meer informatie

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    The Dragons of Ljubljana

    10 september 2024, Slovenië ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The city's symbol is the Ljubljana Dragon. It is depicted on the top of the tower of Ljubljana Castle in the Ljubljana coat of arms and on the Ljubljanica-crossing Dragon Bridge. It represents power, courage, and greatness. With several explanations around the origin of Ljubljana, according to Greek legend, the Argonauts on their return home after having taken the Golden Fleece found a large lake surrounded by a marsh between the present-day towns of Vrhnika and Ljubljana. There Jason struck down a monster which evolved into the dragon that today is present in the city coat of arms and flag.

    There are dragons everywhere in Ljubljana, on bridges and buildings, on spires and castles. There are shops that just sell dragon products and drinks called dragon’s blood. The town has definitely embraced its dragon icon.

    The town is also home to some odd looking statues that certainly catch the eye. With the other lovely shop displays, statues and buildings, it is an interesting town to explore.

    The other thing that caught my eye was the vending machines. The shops do not open in town on Sundays but if you need eggs, milk, bread or pharmaceutical items there were vending machines for all of these products. You can bring your own bottle to fill with milk or purchase a bottle from the vending machine as well. Quite amusing.    Meer informatie

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