Pilgrims' Way

November 2023 - May 2024
The start of a very long pilgrimage in both time and distance! Starting with the Pilgrims' Way from Winchester to Canterbury and continuing on to RomeπŸ˜±πŸ˜‚. Should take us about 10 years! Read more
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  • Day 1

    Winchester to Alresford

    November 20, 2023 in England β‹… ☁️ 12 Β°C

    The beginning of a long, long journey - The Pilgrims' Way followed by the Via Francigena (God willing!) 😊. Having walked a few caminos in Spain and Portugal, we thought it was time for a change. And so begins a journey of about 2000 kilometres (1242.742 miles to be exact) that's likely to take us to 2035 or so if we're lucky enough to live that long!
    Every journey starts with a single step, so they say, and ours started at the shrine of St Swithun in Winchester Cathedral. It'll eventually, over 9 sections, take us 141 miles to the tomb of St Thomas Becket in Canterbury. Then the rest of the journey will take us to Rome. That's the plan, anyway!πŸ˜‚
    And so the adventure began...
    Monday started with rain, but by the time Julie and I stepped out of Winchester Cathedral it had stopped, and we even had some sunshine! Over the past few years we've walked the vast majority of today's route from Winchester to Alresford many times so it was very familiar. From Alresford onwards, it's not so.
    It was fabulous to be back on pilgrimage and have a final destination, however long it may take us to reach both Canterbury (2024) and Rome (who knows?). On today's bimble we passed a few churches where we were able to stamp our Pilgrims' Passports (I thought one stamp was rubbish until Julie pointed out I hadn't opened the ink padπŸ™„πŸ€”πŸ˜„), meandered with the River Itchen, climbed a few very gentle slopes and had to skim a rather large bull who was standing right on our path and refused to move, but the countryside was delightful and it was a perfect walking day, albeit a tad damp underfoot.
    We were met in Itchen Abbas by Emily and Nelson, and stopped for lunch at Ovington - we'd bought lunch in Winchester (days are short and we weren't sure how long a pub lunch would take!) and it was good fun to sit in a field and dodge Nelson as he desperately tried to eat our sandwiches, despite having his own snacksπŸ˜„.
    Just another 6km or so took us into Alresford and, having parked one car in Alresford and one in Winchester, we were mobile. We didn't have to rely on public transport this time round, but that'll be impossible as we walk on, which promises to be fun!
    Day 2, Alresford to Alton, soon!πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘
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  • Day 57

    Alresford to Almost Alton!

    January 15 in England β‹… β˜€οΈ 2 Β°C

    At last πŸ€—. Day 2 of our Pilgrims' Way, walking from Winchester to Canterbury, with today's intended hike being from Alresford to Alton.
    Despite the really low temperature (soooo cold, it was a thermal vest, hat and gloves day!), it was a fantastic day to enjoy a long walk. The sun shone on us and the scenery was just beautiful and, as we neared Chawton, it was most definitely Jane Austin country!
    The route took us through some beautiful villages and farmland, but thank goodness Julie had our route on her phone, the description in the Cicerone book was pretty poor πŸ˜‚ so, fortunately, we were still able to find our way with ease.
    We lunched at the church in Ropley which, according to the guide, was a shell due to a devastating fire in 2014. However, it had been rebuilt and reopened in 2022 and is an amazing mix of ancient and modern architecture. It's just gorgeous! We sat outside in the sun to eat rather than inside, but it was a very quick lunch break because of the cold πŸ˜‚, our hands were frozen! A quick visit to the very modern loos saw us on our way in no time at all.
    A walk past Charlie Chaplin (what a shock that wasπŸ˜‚), through fields and over bridges, took us to Four Marks and past the garden centre where, next time, we'll stop for cake πŸŽ‚. But we were on a mission to walk in daylight and there was no time.
    There followed a rather muddy trudge along paths and through a wooded area which led us to Emily and Nelson πŸ€— who had joined us from Chawton, and from there Nelson led us all the way back to Chawton - he really did know the way!
    We sat for a well-earned break at Jane Austin's house and enjoyed Christmas cake (thank you Julie and Mary Berry!) and a drink πŸ‘ before the final 3km bimble to Alton. Well, our intention was to walk on to Alton, but the offer of a lift back to the car in Alresford was too good to refuse. So that's what we did!
    We'd walked about 20km and will start our next leg (to Farnham) in Chawton so we don't cheat. Hopefully, it won't be too long before we're out and about again!
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  • Day 120

    Chawton to Farnham

    March 18 in England β‹… ☁️ 13 Β°C

    At last! Day 3 of our Pilgrims Way, Chawton to Farnham, which saw us walking 23km, lots of it through mud, making the going rather tough at times!
    We started the day in rain, the stuff that gets you wet, but once it stopped we were able to pack our wet gear away and trudge onwards and (sometimes) upwards. It was definitely a good workout for the legs, and carrying around the extra weight on our walking boots meant we got an even better workout πŸ˜‚.
    Beginning in Chawton, we visited the church for our Pilgrim stamp. As we walked to the church we noticed a lady cold water swimming in the local stream - there'd been so much rain it had swollen and become deep enough for a good swim! Rather her than us πŸ˜²πŸ˜‚!
    We headed off to Jane Austin's house and onwards to Alton. The properties in the village were all very 'Jane Austinesque' and it was easy to imagine her wandering around, just like Emma Thompson in Sense and Sensibility. In Alton, we loved the blue plaque informing us that she definitely hadn't lived in that house πŸ˜‚ - very amusing.
    We gathered a few stamps today as we walked (and trudged) through the towns and villages - Chawton, Alton, Holybourne (very posh and where Alan Titchmarsh lives), Froyle, Bentley and finally Farnham. At one of the churches we found some very interesting brick gravestones.
    A very welcome lunch was enjoyed in Lower Froyle before heading off to Farnham. My idea of avoiding yet more muddy fields by walking along the road was dismissed as I hadn't realised 'the road' was the A31πŸ™„πŸ˜‚. So more mud it was, but the sun shone occasionally, and many of the fantastic yew trees in Bentley churchyard were over 350 years old and absolutely beautiful.
    When we reached Farnham we'd missed the bus back to Alton and it was about a 40 minute wait for the next one, plus another bus back to the car in Chawton 😳 so a quick taxi ride it was! The driver took one look at our boots... but we were prepared with large plastic bags and were able to keep his taxi cleanπŸ˜€ for which he was extremely grateful.
    It was a lovely day for a walk despite the mud. Good company, good food and a good workout!
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  • Day 148

    Just missing the snow!

    April 15 in England β‹… 🌬 11 Β°C

    Farnham to Guildford (23km) through rain, hail and shine, but mostly wind πŸ˜‚
    What a fabulous (but very weather-changeable) day to complete our final solo day of the Pilgrim's Way (we'll walk the rest of the way in groups of 2 or 3 days). The journey began with a drive to Farnham through the most torrential, almost equatorial, rain! The windscreen wipers were on max and we wondered whether we'd actually get to walk anywhere! By the time we reached Farnham, however, it'd stopped and we were able to park and do some lunch shopping as the kitchen at the pub we'd planned to stop at was closed on Mondays πŸ™„.
    We'd missed the church in Farnham where we could get our passports stamped so wandered into the local council offices thinking they might have one (as well as an all important loo stop before we began walking). A very nice lady (who'd never heard of the Pilgrim's Way and was astounded that we were walking to Canterbury, but not in one go!) managed to locate a very nice man who told us, no, they didn't have a stamp, but they could frank our passports. So we ended up with probably the nicest stamp of all 😊! A quick loo visit and a drive to the railway station, and we were off on the start of our North Downs section of the way. I think it was something like 1100 before we finally began the day's bimble so lunchtime arrived pretty quickly, not at the pub we'd thought we'd stop at, but at the church lych-gate in Seale, a welcome shelter from the cold wind! Each of the churches we've stopped at has had a stamp for Pilgrim Passports so we have a lovely visual reminder of each section. By this time, we'd experienced torrential rain, drizzle and hailstones, as well as some very welcome sunshine, but the wind hardly ever left us. Often, though, we were fortunate to be walking between banks of trees that afforded us some shelter. For some of the way, we followed the path of the Hogs Back so (if you know this area) there were quite a few hills to climb, but it really was a fabulous day and we kept warm with all the effort we put in to walking!
    We finally stopped for a long drink and a packet of crisps (Pam, chorizo flavour, Julie sweet chilli) at the pub in Puttenham where we'd have liked to have eaten lunch (I'm not sure I'd have lasted that long though!) then it was the final 12kms into Guildford.
    Today's walk was very green, through woods and past farms and golf greens, benches dedicated to past walkers, and little hobbit-like doors 😊. We saw a few buildings and walked through a couple of villages, but it was mainly agricultural land with sheep and lots of horses and, as we got closer to Puttenham, hops country (see pic).
    We finally reached Guildford station gone 1700 but we couldn't find anywhere for a stamp. Next time - maybe Guildford Cathedral! It's a good job Julie knew the area πŸ˜‚ and the route along part of the River Wey, which led us past a gorgeous little stone bridge and a delightful bronze of Alice in Wonderland and straight into M&S for some well-deserved chocolate and alcohol 🍸 for the train journey. The train back to Farnham meant we got back to the car at about 1800 and I finally got home at 1930. Hence our next few sections will be walked over 2 or 3 days - we'll have a little holiday each time 😊😊😊 and won't have to take the train each day! And, hopefully, the sun will be shining ✨️ πŸ™ 😎
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