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Lake Eyre
  • LinY
julho 2025

Lake Eyre

6 day trip with Australian Iconic Tours to Leigh Creek, William Creek, Birdsville, Coober Pedy and Port Augusta and a flight over Lake Eyre Leia mais
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  • Inicio da viagem
    8 de julho de 2025
    LinYLake EyreViajante
    Rain - welcomed by the farmers
    Lake Hamilton - lots of Coots and MoorhensEdenhopeEdenhopeBordertown 105 on the Park MotelBordertownBordertownBordertownBordertownBordertown1The motel

    First night - Bordertown

    8 de julho, Austrália ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    And we’re off - driving to Adelaide then joining a tour to Lake Eyre. Our first night is in Bordertown on the way to Adelaide. There were interesting things to see in most of the towns we went through on the Hamilton Highway. We didn’t have time to stop though ☹️ and it rained for most of the way. We did stop to swap drivers at Darlington.

    And we did stop for lunch in Hamilton and ate by the lake. And we swapped drivers again in Edenhope. John drove the last stint into Bordertown where we were staying at Bordertown 105 on the Park Motel. We arrived just before 4pm and went to a supermarket to buy some supplies for dinner and then checked in to the motel.

    We went for a walk into town because it had stopped raining, but still cold. Dinner was a chicken dish from home served with rice and quinoa.    Leia mais

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    Coonalpyn silos
    Coonalpyn

    To Adelaide via Monarto Wildlife Park

    9 de julho, Austrália ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Very cold today and windy and heavy rain from Monarto into Adelaide. 1st stop Coonalpyn silo art for coffee for John (breakfast) and swap drivers. Then we stopped at the Monarto Wildlife Park, and it worked out ok because they take you in a big bus around the huge park with the idea of getting on and off where you want. I was hoping to walk some but weather too risky. We had lunch in the cafe and then got on the bus. It was a full-sized bus so no chance of good photos through the windows. We got off at the second stop because of the promise of a bird walk only to be told there's not much going on. John had coffee and I did the walk in the rain. Didn't see any birds but nice walk anyway.

    The park was a good introduction to our birding trip to South Africa, in a couple of weeks, where we expect to see many of the birds and mammals we see here.

    After arriving at The Terrace Hotel, Adelaide, we went to Amy's place after picking up takeaway from Pasta Go Go (Tinglish was closed) to have dinner with Amy, Matt (her new boyfriend from Queensland) and Sadie (her 15 week old Border Collie puppy). Matt was doing all the right things when meeting his potential in-laws for the first time. Sadie was doing what puppies do - only in overdrive all night. We left relatively early. Amy drove us back to the hotel in our VW Golf, which she took back to her place as free parking while we were on our tour.    Leia mais

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    1Our bus
    1Monster at Lake Bumbunga!Hall at Lochiel near Lake BumbungaOn the side of the Lochiel Hall

    Our tour begins

    10 de julho, Austrália ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Our alarm went at 6am. We discovered our milk and yoghurt were frozen so we run them under hot water to get enough for John's coffee and my breakfast. (small packets of Weetbix and Cornflakes bought from home and a banana).

    We packed and got down to the lobby by 6:40. Our guide/driver Rita picked us up at 6:50am. We were first on the bus. Then she drove to 4 more motels picking up a further 16 people and then we headed off.

    Rita pointed out points of interest along the way - greenhouses providing much of Adelaide with food, a new suburb with lots of date palms planted at $20000 each! Which are now dying! And Adelaide’s gas power plant.

    First stop was morning tea at Lake Bumbunga in Lochiel where we sighted a monster in the lake! The lake is known to change color from pink, to white, to blue, depending on the salinity of the water throughout the year. This time it was nothing special.

    Morning tea was tea or coffee (or water) and a small piece of pear and cinnamon slice.

    We gradually got to know the names of our companions. There was Don (NSW), Karen (Adelaide), Carol and Tony, Wendy (Sydney), Tina (QLD), Peter and Sandi, Barry and Ann-Louise (Sydney), Anna (Albany), and Christine and Dan (QLD)

    Then onward toward Quorn. Along the way we had to choose our meal for Friday night in William Creek - I chose steak and John chose goat curry.    Leia mais

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    Quorn Post OfficeQuorn - statue made from chicken wireChicken wire figuresQuorn - statues made from chicken wireQuorn toilet blockQuornMovies made in and around QuornAlong the road to ParachilnaParachilnaParachilna

    Lunch in Quorn

    10 de julho, Austrália ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    We had a group lunch in a little cafe in the main street in Quorn - soup and bread roll and salad roll. Then we walked around the main street and bought a postcard, some Quandong Jam and some stamps.

    Then the tourist Pichi Richi steam train arrived and many people disembarked. It's school holidays in SA and Quorn is very popular. There were some lovely statues made with chicken wire near the Railway Station.
    A few movies have been made in Quorn - Walkabout 1952, Robbery Under Arms 1956, Sunday Too Far Away 1975, Gallipoli 1980 plus many more.

    We had about 45 mins to look around then set off for Beltana. We called in at Parachilna and along the way we saw emus, kangaroos, wild goats, old homestead ruins, small cemeteries, long goods trains and the Flinders Ranges in the distance to the right.    Leia mais

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    The Royal Victoria Hotel in Beltana
    Outback Resort in Leigh Creek

    Beltana to Leigh Creek

    10 de julho, Austrália ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We went off the main road to visit Beltana which they are making into a tourist attraction. The town is state heritage listed and has a population of around 35 permanent residents. Aboriginal, Afghan and Europeans cultures alike regard Beltana as a significant part in their history. The town is rich in historic buildings. When Amy heard we were calling in there she told us she had been there several times to help get the hotel ready because it belongs to the family of one of her friends! So, we introduced ourselves and had a chat then walked around part of the old township. They have a Border Collie that came from the same kennels that Sadie came from. Amy said their dog inspired her to get Sadie - for their loyalty. Unfortunately John was playing with the dog and it was so excited it accidentally bit John on the hand and broke the skin. Rita patched him up with Betadine and Bandaids.

    Then we drove the last 12Kms into Leigh Creek keeping watch for kangaroos (saw a few) and emus (saw a couple close to the road, one with a chick).

    We were staying at the Outback Resort. Room 14. Had choice of chicken Kiev or roast beef for dinner.    Leia mais

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  • LinYLake EyreViajante
    View from Leigh Creek
    John with Talc AlfTalc Alf's place1Scotch Oven FarinaPreserving (not restoring)MarreeTom KruseMarree Pub

    Talc Alf, Farina and Marree

    11 de julho, Austrália ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Set off from Leigh Creek after breakfast and a proper coffee from a coffee shop a couple of chaps have set up recently.

    Then stopped at Talc Alfs. Alf is a bit of a character who carves in sandstone. Alf's designs are mostly modern, impressionist and with a realist touch, reflecting both his individual outlook on life and his keen perceptions of his environment. Alf is a great admirer of Henry Lawson, Banjo Paterson and naturally Australia's National Song,

    Next we drove off the main road to Farina for morning tea at the bakery. It was a thriving town when this was the railway terminus. As the rail line was extended the town lost all importance so withered and was abandoned.
    The town has not been inhabited since 1967 but there is a keen band of volunteers who come for 2 or 3 months every year in 2-week blocks to preserve the remains of the buildings left and the underground bakery operates for only those 3 months. Their dedication is amazing. One of the volunteers explained about the underground kiln, the train and preservation of the buildings. They are not restoring, just preserving. John had coffee and an apple turnover, I had a hot chocolate and a date scone.

    Then 30 minutes up the main road we had a quick stop at Marree where the pub had a room dedicated to Tom Kruse, a postman who delivered the mail along the Birdsville track for many, many years. There was also one of his old trucks across the road from the pub. We walked to the Post Office and posted some postcards.

    Then we set off along the Oodnadatta Track toward William Creek.    Leia mais

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    Lake Eyre South, William Creek

    11 de julho, Austrália ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We had sandwiches for lunch at the Lake Eyre south lookout. There was lots of water, but it was quite a fair way out, or is it a mirage?

    We then continued to William Creek down the Oodnadata track which was corrugated for some parts but pretty good otherwise.

    William Creek consists of the pub, an airstrip and a camping ground. Oh, and you can learn to drive, maybe, see photo.

    After the others had returned from the Painted Hills (see next entry) we dined in the Hotel. John had goat curry and I had steak, We shared an apple crumble. Then we had to get organised for tomorrow's flight to Birdsville. We were just to take on overnight bag which was provided by Aust Iconic Tours. We put the rest of our luggage into Rita's trailer.    Leia mais

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    The Painted Hills

    11 de julho, Austrália ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    As soon as we arrived in William Creek it was time for those who were flying to see the Painted Hills to take off. John had elected to do the optional tour so will add his notes. The runway crosses the road! I watched them take off and then walked around the town area.

    John - The peak of these hills is the bed of the inland sea, with the sea surface 10m above that. The sediment laid down slowly and composed of different layers of quartz tainted by various mineral deposits. It is all really fragile and mostly being eroded by the wind. It is so fragile that if there was significant rainfall all this would be washed into a new homogeneous layer. When we go to Coober Pedy, we will see that other side of this erosion pattern - the Breakaways.    Leia mais

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  • LinYLake EyreViajante
    The contrast between water and desert.
    The contrast between water and desert.Eastern edge of Lake Eyre - with water.Eastern edge of Lake Eyre - with water.Desert before rain or flood.Cooper Creek as it begins to flow - and flood!Flooding around the Cooper Creek.The causeway at Coopers Creek. The Birdsville track is 2/3 up the photo.

    Flight over Lake Eyre

    12 de julho, Austrália ⋅ 🌙 8 °C

    Set off at 7am and, after the safety talk from our pilot Alex, given outside the plane (a Cessna Caravan) we climbed into our seats. We were allocated the 1st set of seats with good views - yay. John’s seat belt was different to the rest so was a little tricky.

    It wasn’t long before we were over the lake, and it stretched for miles and miles. It took about half an hour to fly over it from west to east. All this water came from the Warburton Creek. Then we followed the dry Cooper Creek bed for 9 miles before seeing the start of that flood. The Birdsville Track at various locations was blocked off by water.

    The water had spread all through the areas nearby in the Sturt Stony Desert on the way to Innamincka. We could see that the flood had abated as there was greenery well beyond the flood. John could not comprehend how the pilots could explain a flood to passengers when it was all dry.    Leia mais

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    Innamincka from the air
    Flooded causeway weeks after the initial floodThe corrugations show where the water reachedThis homestead is 2 hours by road south of Innaminka

    Innamincka

    12 de julho, Austrália ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    After about 2 and a half hours flying we touched down at Innamincka for morning tea.

    There is only a Police Station, a Parks Office, a Flying Doctor centre, and some accommodation. We had morning tea at the dining room of the accommodation. After some sandwiches, drinks and slice Rita took us for a walk down to the causeway to show us how high the water reached when the water rose in the area. The causeway was damaged, and water was still pouring over it. They had made some levies, but the water stopped rising at 11.5 metres, just lower than the lowest building in town (Flying Doctor facility). The previous record flood was 9.4m.Leia mais

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    Birdsville

    12 de julho, Austrália ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    The next leg of the flight took us to Birdsville. This flight crossed from the Cooper Creek catchment to the Warburton River catchment and we could see much more greenery as the flood had already subsided.

    Birdsville is a much bigger town than I realised. It has a bakery (lunch), an Information place, big primary school (for 4 students!), a hospital, the pub of course, a post office and more.

    There are some cairns to commemorate some important events. One was for the first European to cross the Simpson desert from west to east. His name was Ted Colson, and he is my Great Uncle! He crossed the desert in 1936 with a few camels and an indigenous companion.

    After lunch at the bakery, we had a look in the information place and walked down to the river where we saw about 9 Whistling Kites flying above us and one pelican in the water. Some others suggested the bridge for birds watching.    Leia mais

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    Steaming bore water powering the town.
    The turnstiles at the Birdsville Race Club. On race days there can be 4,000 people through here!!On race days nearly 15,000 cases of beer are consumed.Celebrating the Birdsville races.One of Tom Cruze's mail trucks. Birdsville.Big Red - from on top. The largest and last sand dune on the east of the Simpson desert.1Big Red - from below. The largest and last sand dune on the east of the Simpson desert.Big Red - from on top. The largest and last sand dune on the east of the Simpson desert.Big Red - from on top. More like Big Green after this weather.Big Red - from on top. More like Big Green after this weather.Big Red - from on top. More like Big Green after this weather.We can almost do a decent selfie - almost.Pre-dinner drinks and nibbles while watching the sunset.Sunset atop Big Red.

    Big Red sunset drinks and nibbles

    12 de julho, Austrália ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    At 4pm we set off with Mark from the Birdsville Hotel in a minibus for a town tour and Mark showed us the Artesian Bore that supplies their hot water, the school, various old buildings, one of Tom Kruse’s old trucks, and the famous Birdsville horse racing track. The bore is so hot that it provides Birdsville's power by geothermal means. Then we set off for the Big Red sand dune at the start of the Simpson Desert.

    It was about a 30min drive. Mark drove us to the top of the dune and provided chairs, drinks and nibbles while we watched the sun set. He told us that prior to the flood there had been a lot of rain over this area. It accelerated the flood flow as the ground was already saturated. That is why the Warburton Creek got to Lake Eyre so much quicker than the Cooper Creek. It also explains why Big Red is now Big Green.

    Back to town and straight to dinner in the Hotel. John had slow-cooked beef cheeks and I had steak and salad. We shared a white brownie and icecream. It was too dry!    Leia mais

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    Fairy MartinsWhite-browed WoodswallowBlack KitesApproaching Big Red, as you can see - more like Big Green!Big Red, as you can see - more like Big Green!Pelicans

    Flight back to William Creek

    13 de julho, Austrália ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    After breakfast John and I had time to walk out of town a bit to check out a waterhole, by the bridge. Saw some Masked Woodswallows, Fairy Martins, a Blackfaced Cuckoo shrike and Black Kites. There and back, we saw galahs, magpie larks, crows and eastern rosellas.

    A group photo outside the Hotel then it was back into the plane. The flight back went over the Big Red sand dune then followed the Diamantina River and took us over the Channel Country, the Simpson Desert and then followed the Warburton River until it reached Lake Eyre.

    We arrived back at William Creek for an early lunch.    Leia mais

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    Underground motel
    Our room. No mobile reception here. I had to go into the hall to get recption.The view of Coober Pedy from our motel.Underground Serbian churchRita said: "Coober Pedy has lots of artwork - some call it rubbish."The BreakawaysThe Breakaways.The Breakaways.The Breakaways.Linden and John Young at The Breakaways.The Dingo-proof fence. 5,614 km from Jimbour (on the Darling Downs) to the Great Australian Bight.The Big Winch

    Coober Pedy

    13 de julho, Austrália ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    After lunch at the William Creek Hotel we headed further along the Oodnadatta track for a little way before turning left to Coober Pedy. This road was hours of very corrugated dirt track.

    After arriving in Coober Pedy and dropping off our luggage in our underground motel rooms we went for a tour with Rita of the area. First to the Golf Club, then the main street then the underground Serbian Church and finally out of town a bit to see the Breakaways and then a quick stop to see part of the dog fence.

    We finished the day at the Big Winch for a meal while watching the sun go down.    Leia mais

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    Linden at the Coober Pedy golf course. Only glub with resiprocal rights with St Andrews.
    Underground mine, museum and gift shop.Underground mine, museum and gift shop.Woomera museum.Woomera museum.Woomera landscape.Woomera landscape.The Standpipe Inn, Port Augusta, menu.The Standpipe Inn, Port Augusta, food.The Standpipe Inn, Port Augusta, room.

    Coober Pedy to Port Augusta

    14 de julho, Austrália ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    There was no breakfast provided at the Motel so Rita had given us each a packeted breakfast which had muesli, a tub of fruit, and a fruit juice plus some yoghurt and a banana each.

    We had a few activities to do before leaving Coober Pedy:-
    * A quick hit of golf from the first tee.
    * A visit to the Umoona OpalMine and Museum experience which included a demonstration of opal cutting, a tour through a private underground home, a museum and, of course, a chance to buy opals!
    * A bit of free time in which we walked to a local artist's shop to see the indigenous artist at work.
    * Pizza lunch

    Then while Rita drove to Woomera where we visited the information centre, Rita played a CD of Len Beadell telling how he got involved with Woomera. Len was a surveyor, road builder, bushman, artist and author, responsible for constructing over 6,000 km of roads and opening up isolated desert areas – some 2.5 million square kilometres – of central Australia from 1947 to 1963.
    His story telling was very funny and entertaining.

    After we'd had a look at the Woomera museum Rita then drove us in the dark and heavy rain to Port Augusta.    Leia mais

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    Port Augusta Arid GardensPort Augusta Arid Gardenswet birds at Port Augusta Arid Gardens.Walks at Port Augusta Arid GardensPort Augusta Arid GardensPort PiriePort PirieSnowtown

    Port Augusta to Adelaide

    15 de julho, Austrália ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    First stop today was the Arid Botanic Gardens but it was raining lightly so most just got coffee with a quick look around on the way in and out. We bought things - natural insect repellent, a book and some cards. We left them on the bus when we were dropped off and they sent them on after Linden contacted them.

    Next stop was Port Pirie for lunch.

    We were driven through Snowtown where the infamous old bank vault has been converted into a gift shop! There was also a painted silo. We didn't stop.

    After a quick stop in Port Waikerie for fuel and rest rooms we continued to Adelaide arriving at about 4pm.    Leia mais

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    Back to Geelong

    16 de julho, Austrália ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    After arriving back in Adelaide we had a quick tour of Amy's garden then we headed to Murray Bridge where we stayed the night in the Adelaide Road Motor Lodge. Dinner was leftover snacks as we really didn't need anymore food!

    Set off at about 8:30 the next morning, swapping drivers every 90 minutes or so. We visited the Christmas Shop in Beaufort. I always like to have a wander around the shop and they have coffee (and cake for John). We reached Geelong at about 5:30. Passed lots of windfarms along the road from Skipton to Shelford.    Leia mais

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    Final da viagem
    16 de julho de 2025