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Simpson Desert
  • Anthony Walsh
  • Jane Walsh

Simpson Desert

A 25-day adventure by Anthony Walsh & Jane Walsh Read more
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  • Trip start
    July 19, 2024
    Simpson Desert
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    Moonie 443km

    July 19, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We are on our way to the Simpson Desert. Fully packed car and first night at Moonie Crossroads Hotel. Typical Aussie pub hotel. Moonie is the self proclaimed Pig hunting capital of Australia

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    Charlotte Plains 451 km / 894 km

    July 20, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    2nd Breakfast at St George and lovely, peaceful afternoon and evening at Charlotte Plains, alongside hot springs. We were last here 4 years ago with Shannon and Theresa

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    11Moonrise1SunriseMoonset

    The Lake (Quilpie) 273km / 1167 km

    July 21, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Continued heading West deeper into the Outback with narrower roads and flat, arid landscape. Still green after the recent rains. Thankfully all roads are open. We found an awesome camp site at the Lake on a working Merino sheep station. We were blessed with the full moon rise and gorgeous sunset on a crystal clear evening and not too cold at 5 degrees. Sunset photo alert aheadRead more

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    Betoota Hotel 481 km / 1648km

    July 22, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    A long driving day deeper into the Outback and through the Channel Country. Travelling on dirt roads, single central centre bitumen road with gravel on either side which needs to be used when two cars pass. Recent rains have made the landscape beautifully green with wild flowers and some roadside puddles still around. Not expected for the harsh outback landscape. We passed through Windorah (population 80), a typical, tidy outback town. We had a quick lunch at the local general store. And then onto Betoota for the night. Betoota hotel is literally Betoota, so population 3. Free camping alongside the hotel (pay for a hot shower). Robbo, the owner, is a mechanic and is kept busy during the outback tourist season (Winter). Drinks around a huge campfire, overlooking the incredible outback sunset. Dinner is whatever the cook decides to cook. Plenty of chatter continued around the fire amongst fellow travellers and locals. Good to meet up with Charlotte and Gilbert who we will now travel with for the next leg.Read more

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    2Into the Simpson Desert1Sundowners!11

    Birdsville (169 km / 1784 km)

    July 23, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Off again on our way to Birdsville. The green desert, wild flowers, patches of water which brings incredible birdlife. We even spotted pelicans (in the desert!) was just incredible. We arrived at Birdsville (population 180) at lunch time. We had a lovely lunch at the iconic Birdsville hotel. Birdsville gets incredibly busy during the winter months (summer temps of upto 50 degrees keeps people away then). Birdsville have the very popular Big Red Bash in early July, which brings thousands for the popular music event and the Birdsville Races in early September, which has been described as Schoolies for over 50s. We planned our trip in the winter months between these two events. We checked in at the hotel for two nights. And then set off to the Big Red (one of the biggest dunes we will be crossing during our Simpson Desert crossing - one of over 1000 we will be traversing). What an incredible spot for sundowners - I will let the photos tell the story. We have now met up with Charlotte, Gilbert, Ric and Debbie who we will be travelling with for the next leg.Read more

  • Simpson Desert
    Coffee before departureLetting tyre pressure down before entering the desert1Wildflowers in abundance1Our spot for the night12Crossing Eyre Creek

    QAA line (111 km / 1895 km)

    July 25, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    A nervous start into the unknown became a wonderful experience driving across the dunes and Eyre creek crossing (see video) and experiencing an unusually green desert with magnificent wild flowers after recent rains. Driving was slow, averaging 18 km / hour. We could choose anywhere along the track to camp so found a sheltered spot behind a dune, on top of which we watched sunset before a delicious fire cooked meal.Read more

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    Sunrise
    Typical large dune with choices from adventurous to chicken runLake PoeppelPoeppel Corner

    Knolls Track (114 km / 225 km / 2009 km)

    July 26, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    After packing up watching a glorious desert sunrise we had another surreal day crossing the dunes a salt pan surrounded by more spectacular wild flowers. The day included a stop at Poeppel corner which is the corner point of QLD, SA and NT. The pace remained slow and we arrived at our camp site on Knolls Track in the late afternoon. So a quick camp setup before dinner prep as threatening clouds were building. While there was some rain, which forced us to bed early, the rain was not heavy.Read more

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    Early morning tracks
    Choices!Dingo

    WAA line (100 km / 325 km / 2109 km)

    July 27, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    A messy start to the morning with mud from last nights rain. It made the pack up longer and less fun. The highlight of the day was the magnificent salt pan crossings with the contrast of white to the red desert sand. The flowers did not disappoint. There were less steep dunes today as they flatten out further South on the WAA line. We decided on an early camp set up to soak up the desert afternoon experience. The flies decided to join us. A lovely evening around the campfire with our fellow travellers enjoying a drink or two and another lovely meal.Read more

  • Simpson Desert
    Spring at Purni Bore1

    Dalhousie Springs (145 km / 470 / 2254

    July 28, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Jane, Charlotte and Debbie drove this morning along the Rig Road. We exited the desert along the French line at Purni Bore where there are hot springs. We continued through the Witjira National Park at a much faster speed than the previous 3 days ending at our camp for the next two nights at Dalhousie Springs. We loved soaking in the hot spring water as the outside temperature got to 2 or 3 degrees. The desert crossing was an amazing experience with a combination of the natural beauty of the dunes, wild flowers, stark landscapes, sunrises, sunsets and incredible Outback stars and the unnerving reality of being totally isolated in the remotest of places with no food, fuel, water or telecommunication for nearly 500 kms.Read more

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    2Gibble plains1

    Mount Dare 72km / 542 / 2326

    July 29, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We got out of our tent in the dark and freezing cold so we could watch the sunrise while soaking in the hot spring. Moving from the freezing cold into the hot water was sooooo incredible. The steam rising from the hot water made for an extra special sunrise, making a tree look like it was on fire. We drove to Mount Dare, the official end of the desert crossing and first fuel stop since Birdsville. Along the way we saw the baron, stoney gibble plains. Mount Dare is the most remote pub in Oz, so they say. Some facts and figures: total distance from Birdsville was 542 km, 5 days driving, fuel used 83L (15L per 100 km). The first two days fuel consumption around 18L per 100 km. We celebrated our achievement with a hot shower, kangaroo burger and a beer (while a load of washing was drying), before heading back to Dalhousie Springs to repeat our soakings.Read more

  • Simpson Desert
    Dalhousie Ruins
    Fettler cottage ruinsAngle pole - memorial of first telegraph lineOodnadatta!

    Algebuckina Bridge 306km / 2632 km

    July 30, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Leaving the desert behind us after one more soaking in the hot spring. We started the 2nd part of our trip, outback touring, towards Lake Eyre on the Oodnadatta Track, where we will see many ruins of railway sidings, bridges of the Historic Old Ghan railway and pioneering cattle and sheep stations dating back to late 1800s. Our first stop was at Dalhousie Ruins where we saw great examples of old station buildings. We stopped for lunch at the quirky pink roadhouse in Oodnadatta. Oodnadatta is a typical remote outback settlement. We then made our way to the famous Algebuckina bridge where we set up camp. The bridge was built in the 1890s and made for an impressive sunset spot. Another glorious campfire meal with good company impressive clear night stars on another cold night.Read more

  • Simpson Desert
    Sunrise
    Water tank and softener ruinWilliam Creek Hotel pub

    Halligan Bay, Lake Eyre (212 km / 2844 k

    July 31, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    After a breathtaking sunrise over the bridge, a hot cup of coffee, we continued down the Oodnadatta track, seeing more siding ruins which include fettler (railway maintenance worker) cottages, water tanks and softeners (for the steam trains) and some rail tracks as evidence of the old Ghan railway. We filled up and had a light lunch at the William Creek hotel. William Creek is a more substantial town owned entirely by the Williams family, with a hotel, medical facility, camping grounds and the base for Wright air who do scenic flights in the area. We will return for our flights. After lunch we set off for the camping on the banks of lake Eyre at Halligan Bay to start our Lake Eyre experience. We walked on the dry part of the lake and had stunning sundowners. It was a bitterly cold night with more wind than usual and no camp fires allowed!Read more

  • Simpson Desert
    Lake EyreBird tracks in lake bed

    Lake Eyre experience from the ground

    July 31, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    This was a once in a life time experience. Although we did not see water today. Watch this space …..

    Here’s a few quick facts about Kati Thanda/Lake Eyre:
    ● Kati Thanda/Lake Eyre is Australia’s largest salt lake
    ● It’s located 647 km north of Adelaide
    ● The Lake comprises 2 lakes: Lake Eyre North and Lake Eyre South
    ● The lakes are connected by the Goyder Channel, which is 15 km long
    ● Together, both lakes are 144km long and 77km wide
    ● Kati Thanda/Lake Eyre is the lowest point below sea level on the Australian mainland
    (15.2m below sea level)
    ● Kati Thanda/Lake Eyre is the focal point of Australia’s second largest drainage system,
    the Lake Eyre Basin.
    Contrary to popular belief, Kati Thanda/Lake Eyre floods every three or four years and fills to
    80% capacity every ten years. On average, it fills to 100% roughly four times every 100 years.    Read more

  • Simpson Desert
    Sunrise over Lake Eyre
    Highway of visitorsStrangeways ruinsSunset over Willam Creek

    William Creek (153 km / 2998 km)

    August 1, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We were rewarded for getting up on a bitterly cold and windy morning with a stunning sunrise over Lake Eyre, a treasured moment in this remote idyllic setting. Before heading to our destination of the day, William Creek, we took a diversion to some must see nearby large ruins. Strangeways was first a pastoral settlement due to the many mound springs and later became a repeater telegraph station (on the telegraph line between Adelaide and Darwin and was the first means of communication to the rest of the world). We also visited the Beresford siding ruins where we had a picnic lunch on the side of the dam. We returned to our “hotel” in William Creek. Anthony was chuffed to stay in an Ausco donga. It was good to have a hot shower and catch up on our washing. It was our final night together and we celebrated in style at the pub and ate a delicious local favourite, a goat curry, washed down with some good red wine. Thanks to Charlotte, Gilbert, Ric and Debbie for sharing this incredible experience with us.

    On a side note, after having travelled through outback Australia, the importance and awesome service provided by the Royal Flying doctor can’t be overstated. Many of these smaller towns and stations have no medical facilities or staff. The Royal Flying doctor is on standby for all medical emergencies and a phone call away for telephone advice at any time.    Read more

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    William Creek

    Lake Eyre from the air

    August 2, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    A flight booked many months ago before we knew we would be blessed with water after the recent months of rain. It takes 3 months or more for rain to reach the Lake. Most people are not lucky enough to see water in the lake so we felt very privileged. The flight gave yet another dimension to this incredible place. I thought we would have seen more birds but with the amount of water in the lake it is apparently 13 times more saline than the sea at the moment so not friendly to fish and therefore the birds are not attracted. The fish are further North where the lake is deeper. An interesting fact is apparently the pelicans usually arrive two weeks before the water! The aeroplane was a very comfortable 8 seater Cessna. The station seen below is Anna Creek - the world’s biggest farming station at about 25000 square kms with about 18000 head of cattle.Read more

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    Lake Eyre from the road

    Muloorina Station (255/ 3253)

    August 2, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We left William Creek on a high after our Lake Eyre flight and made our way to Coward Springs for a lovely cup of coffee, date scones and a date and coffee ice cream. We said our good-byes and all set off on our own. We stopped at the best preserved Old Ghan siding, Curdimurka and stunning bridge. On the road again, we had a lovely surprise view of water in Lake Eyre so stopped and marvelled for a bit. We passed a sculpture park utilising scrap and junk to create some innovative works of art. We went through the dog fence which is the largest man made structure in the world at over 5000 kms of fence to keep dingos from farming stations. A loud screech can be heard when passing through. We took a short detour for our days destination at Muloorina station, a working merino farm. The natural spring made for yet another glorious sunset and campsite setting.Read more

  • Simpson Desert
    Lake Eyre Yacht Club!
    At Farina RuinsShowing the lighting of our awning

    Flinders Ranges (317 km / 3570 km)

    August 3, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We had planned to head home via the Strzelecki Track and Cameron Corner (border of QLD, NSW and SA), but with the forecast rain there was a high chance of road closures. So we decided to head through the Flinders Ranges and onto Broken Hill (the Hill). We popped in briefly to Marree, the last town on the Oodnadatta track and home of what must be the driest sailing club around, the Lake Eyre Sailing Club. On leaving Morree we were greeted with smooth Bitumen roads 😮. We stopped at Farina Ruins - a town of ruins from the old railways days. We made our way towards the Flinders Ranges. We had a beautiful drive through one of the gorges and then onto Willow Springs station, our camping destination for the night. This station is the home of Skytrec, a 7 hour 4x4 adventure track that they have built in their property - apparently the best of the Flinders Ranges. We did not have time for this, but will be back. We had a lovely private campsite for yet another fireside meal.Read more

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    Broken Hill (494 km / 4064 km)

    August 4, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We were up and packed early as we had a long travel day ahead of us. Starting with Mass at Hawker, with a Priest we had met at Straddie a few years ago. The drive reminded us a lot of travelling through the South African Karoo. We even drove through Cradock! We arrived in Broken Hill late and spoilt ourselves staying at the Royal Exchange Hotel. The Hill is the home of the massive global mining company, BHP and the City reflects the wealthy mining heritage with wide streets and beautiful buildings. The hotel is one of the original, old buildings.Read more

  • Simpson Desert
    Tilpa pub

    Tilpa (340km / 4404km)

    August 5, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Leaving Broken Hill, by far the largest place we have seen for nearly 3 weeks, we set off towards Bourke, not sure where we would spend the night. We drove to Wilcannia, where we decided to head along the Darling River run, a small dirt road, through many small towns, that used to be river port towns when the river was the main transport system. We phone the Tilpa pub to check in road conditions after the rain and they said to be cautious but ok to drive. We had a beautiful but eventful drive as the rain made for very slippery and muddy conditions with mud almost completely covering the wheel arches. We were definitely not camping in the muddy conditions tonight and got very modest pub accommodation for the night with shared outdoor bathroom. Tilpa was the 2nd smallest place we stayed at after Betoota and half the town (2) were in the pub that night. The pub was quite busy with fellow travellers, escaping the weather. Tilpa was one of the stranger places we have stayed at after all the warm, friendly places we have been. We were hoping that we would not be isolated in Tilpa with roads closing if the rain was to continue.Read more

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    Mt Oxley (235km / 4639km)

    August 6, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Thankfully the roads out of Tilpa opened at 11am and we could escape. We continued on the river run, passed through Louthabd then into Bourke. The roads were surprisingly good and we made good time. We decided to camp on another station, on a hill on their property. We had the whole area on top of the mountain completely to ourselves. We had the sunset at one side and were woken to the sunrise in the other with beautiful stars in between. The camping facilities were excellent and we had one of our best fires and outdoor shower. This turned out to be our final campfire meal and tented accommodation. What a great way to end.Read more

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    Cleaning the mud off the tyres in a small creek crossing

    Lightening Ridge (358km / 4997km)

    August 7, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Lightening Ridge gets the prize for the quirkiest place of our trip. Arriving there after a beautiful drive with lovely wild yellow flowers and an interesting town where we picnicked for lunch. Brewarrina had an incredible fish trap system in the Barwon River which had been built by aboriginals 4000 years ago. We marvelled at the system, and the pelicans who were also visiting while we ate our lunch. Lightening Ridge is an opal mining and fossicking town where the mining leases (50m x 50m) are all owned by individuals seeking their fortune, living in small tin houses reminiscent of old movies. It is home to the well renowned outback artist, John Murray, whose artwork we saw everywhere on our trip. We visited a small underground mine and learnt about opal mining.Read more

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    Armidale via Moree (588km / 5585km)

    August 9, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We spent the previous night in Moree, famous for its many warm artesian swimming pools. It is a lovely country town. After a coffee we departed for Armidale. We drove through lovely countryside with many bush camping sights that we plan to visit again. We passed through Warialda, Bingara and Bundarra along the Gwydir river and reached the final stop of our trip where we will be spending 3 nights and will be joined by Theresa to visit Shannon. Shannon entered as a postulant with the Sisters of the Immaculata in February this year. We have only spoken to her on the phone twice since so we’re really excited to see her again. We had an afternoon with her to ourselves and the jam donuts. And then joined the community for dinner. A very special evening shared by all and lovely to spend more time with the other Sisters. We ended the day with a communal rosary prayed in their beautiful chapel. Such a blessing to spend time with both our girls.Read more

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    Brisbane (514 km / 6099 km)

    August 12, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    After en epic trip with wonderful memories we arrived back in Brisbane 🤩

    Trip end
    August 12, 2024
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