Stunning Coastlines and a Family Welcome

Brighton to Eastbourne.

What a difference a day makes! Yesterday‘s blustery Brighton had transformed into a picture postcard scene. We awoke to glorious sunshine and the kind of flat calm waters in the marina that make a sailor’s heart sing. Even Pepper seemed to sense the change in mood, happily joining Tracey for an early morning stroll around the harbour wall at 7 am. The fishing fleet, which had lined the back wall yesterday, had already slipped out to sea, leaving that corner of the marina peacefully empty. Beyond the harbour entrance, the sea sparkled with gentle wavelets, stirred by a playful breeze.

But there’s always a catch isn’t there? The wind, though gentle, was stubbornly set against us. We knew this was a likely scenario for the initial leg of our anticlockwise adventure, and we accepted it with a shrug and a smile. A light breakfast fuelled us as we prepared Halcyon Sea for her next journey, carefully stowing anything that might take a tumble in the anticipated headwind.

As we motored out of the harbour entrance, the morning sun painted our passage in brilliant light. Pepper, nestled snuggly in her blankets, seemed far less apprehensive than she had on Saturday, perhaps sensing our calm and the gentle motion of the boat.

The coastline unfolding before us was nothing short of breathtaking, a tapestry woven with centuries of history. We passed the intriguing diagonal Friars Bay cliff steps, carved into the cliff face in the 1920s, a testament to the early days of Peacehaven. It’s fascinating to think that Peacehaven itself is a relatively young town, established in 1916 by the visionary Charles Neville.

As we approached Newhaven, a momentary pause in our course allowed a ferry to exit the Ouse River and glide safely ahead. Then the Vista truly opened up, revealing the majestic Seven Sisters cliffs, the chalk white peaks marching towards the sea, beginning at the “Curly river”as Nick affectionally calls the Cuckmere.

Billing Gap was next, the dramatic point where the rolling green of the south Downs meets the crashing waves. It’s poignant to know that of the original eight Coastguard cottages built here, only three remain, a stark reminder of the relentless power of coastal erosion. Just this week, we learned, the National Trust has even had to restrict coach access due to the increasingly unstable cliff face.

Rising above the landscape at Beachy head, the Belle Tout Lighthouse stood proud. Built in 1832 and decommissioned in 1902, its history as colourful as its white washed walls. From tea shop to wartime casualty to 1950s rebuild and even a stint under BBC ownership, this resilient landmark has been moved 17 meters inland to escape the eroding cliffs. Now beautifully restored it welcomes guests as a unique hotel and B&B. Adding a touch of recent drama, news broke just last month of a significant crack appearing in the cliff edge nearby.

The iconic Beachy head Lighthouse came into view perched below the towering white cliffs. Operational since 1902, this 33 meter tower was the last traditional-style ‘rock tower’ built by Trinity house.

And then, as we finally rounded Beachy Head itself, the first glorious panorama of Eastbourne Seafront unfolded! A 5 mile stretch of beautiful beaches, a classic three tier promenade, the elegant Victorian pier, the vibrant band stand - a feast for the eyes. A little further along a new addition to the landscape caught our attention: a towering big wheel offering breathtaking views.

Our approach to Eastbourne Harbour took us past the historic Martello Tower, a reminder of days gone by. Navigating the scattered lobster pots required careful attention before we joined the queue to enter the inner harbour. Access to our berth for the next week involved going through a lock. A quick call on channel 17 alerted the marina staff to our arrival. The wait was a little longer than anticipated as the locks were temporarily out of service while they topped up the marina with seawater. Then came the delicate dance of waiting for outgoing boats to clear the lock gates before our turn.

Trying to hold our position against an onshore wind, without the aid of a bow thruster, was a challenge that Nick expertly navigated. We were finally directed to our berth, were a wonderful surprise awaited us Val and Sophie, Nick‘s mum and niece, had come down to welcome us– they’re smiling faces a heartwarming sight.

After a much needed cup of tea and a quick lunch, we raised a glass of wine to celebrate our arrival. And the family welcome continued! Nick‘s brother, Andy, also popped by to say hello. For Nick, it truly felt like coming home, albeit to a temporary haven. Eastbourne, with a sunny welcome and the embrace of family, felt like the perfect place to drop anchor for awhile.Meer informatie