UK Circumnavigation 2025

Arbroath to Stonehaven: Tracey Meets Her Nemesis

The cill lock at Arbroath was scheduled to open at 7:54 am on Friday, June 20th, remaining accessible for four hours. This offered ample time to prepare for our departure to Stonehaven. We woke, and Tracey was already fractious, her movements around the boat unusually forceful – a clear sign she was not pleased, and not necessarily with Nick! Having missed out on the famous Arbroath Smokies the previous night, Tracey decided a shopping trip was in order. With a couple of "bags for life" in hand, she set off, determined to gather provisions. Meanwhile, Nick diligently performed his engine checks and stowed everything, readying Halcyon Sea for our journey.

Tracey, however, had dramatically underestimated her shopping haul. Without the trusty shopping trolley, she returned to the boat, her arms nearly dragging on the pontoon, laden with groceries. Her mood was not improved by the sight of Nick sitting comfortably on the boat, engrossed in conversation, and seemingly oblivious to her struggle. The man, it transpired, was Charlie, an ex-submariner. Nick had spotted Charlie's distinctive dolphin decal on his Merry Fisher, and they had struck up a conversation. While they didn't know each other or share common acquaintances, they instantly connected, laughing, joking, and reminiscing about the boats they had served on. There's an unspoken familiarity and camaraderie among those who have served in the military, a bond forged in shared experiences.

Tracey busied herself putting the shopping away, and then it was time to start the engines. Stonehaven was approximately six hours away, and we aimed to arrive at least an hour after low water, meaning anytime after 3:30 pm would be suitable for entry. We slipped from our berth and over the cill, executing a sharp right turn towards the fuel point. We wanted to top up our tank, unsure of the next reliable fuel stop. This marked the first of our day's significant challenges: both the fuel point and our allocated berth in Stonehaven required tying alongside a wall. Neither of us had ever performed this manoeuvre, and Tracey's apprehension was visibly mounting.

Wall-Side Woes: A Practice Run and Mounting Fear

Nick calmly explained the process: Tracey simply needed to pass a line around a rung on the ladder and secure it back on the boat to our midship cleat. Nick would then manage the rest. The fuel point’s location, tucked into a corner, meant a challenging right-angle approach. This manoeuvre would typically be straightforward with a bow thruster, a luxury Halcyon Sea did not possess. As Nick brought the boat in slowly, Tracey reached over the guard rail, snatched a rung before we moved past it, and swiftly managed to wrap the line around it, securing it back on the boat. Nick then climbed the ladder (fortunately, we were at high tide, so only two rungs to climb) and managed to throw down a bow and stern line, which we secured. We had done it! Nick optimistically declared this our "practice run," attempting to reassure Tracey that our main event at Stonehaven would be fine. Tracey, however, was having none of it; the experience had only intensified her fear of coming alongside the wall in Stonehaven. Having successfully refuelled, Tracey chose to climb the couple of rungs to pay for the fuel and berthing rather than remain on the boat watching the lines – clearly, the lesser of two evils.

We then slipped our lines for the second time that morning, completing the necessary dog-leg manoeuvre to exit the harbour, ensuring we stayed mid-channel to avoid any unsuspecting rocks.

A Fishing Buoy Battlefield and a Castle's Glimpse

As soon as we cleared the harbour wall, we went on high alert, scanning for the hundreds of fishing buoys that littered the sea. Nick aptly described it as "Selsey Bill on steroids." Knowing that two other boats had also left Arbroath that morning and were heading to Stonehaven, we called ahead to confirm our berth. We were informed ours would be the first ladder inside the outer harbour wall.

The fishing buoys relentlessly continued to appear until we reached Montrose, offering a brief respite before they resumed. The sun was shining, but the sea breeze was cold, and a one-meter swell generated long, rolling waves. We pulled up the sails to try and create some stability, but the wind was constantly shifting, making it a battle to maintain a steady course without constantly changing direction or drifting too far off our track.

In the distance, the dramatic silhouette of Dunnottar Castle perched high on its craggy rock, a welcome sign that we were nearing our destination. The wind had picked up, and huge gusts began to play with Halcyon Sea. This was not what we needed. The shore was littered with rocks, and Tracey's anxiety began to escalate, doing everything she could to prevent hyperventilating. We still had to drop the sails, a task that required both of us in these challenging conditions. Nick maintained a calm composure, reassuring Tracey that this was normal, and that we had done it many times before – all very true, but nerves had clearly gotten the better of Tracey, who was now tearful and felt as though she had forgotten everything she knew.

A Hard-Won Berth and a Vertical Climb

We managed to turn the boat head to wind so that we could drop the sails. Then, Nick hung the fenders and fender boards in readiness for our arrival. As we rounded the corner of the harbour wall, it appeared a small RIB was occupying our spot. We had failed to spot the first ladder, which was cunningly hidden in an alcove in the harbour wall. This necessitated a 360-degree turn to position ourselves for a second attempt. We had arrived after low water, but still only had a mere 30cm under the keel as Nick swung Halcyon Sea around to try again. To compound the pressure, an audience had, as usual, gathered atop the harbour wall. Nick brought the boat in slowly, as close to the wall as possible. Tracey, with a surge of determination, grabbed a rung, managed to fix the line around it, and secured it back on the boat. Nick then had to ascend the vertical ladder so he could secure the bow and stern lines, dropping each one down to Tracey for her to secure on the boat.

We were in! The first thing we noticed as we rounded the harbour wall was the immediate increase in temperature. At sea, we'd both been layered in sweatshirts and jackets, but stepping into the harbour felt like entering a sauna. The heat hit us, much like exiting a plane into sunnier climes. We quickly stripped down to our shorts and T-shirts, and then the realisation dawned: Pepper needed a walk! As we were not long after low water, there was a significant number of ladder rungs to climb to reach the top. Tracey's fear of heights, now adding to the mix, left her shaking, her legs like jelly. Nick stood behind her, offering encouragement with each rung, until she finally scrambled over the ledge and stood on terra firma, her tears mercifully hidden behind her sunglasses. He then climbed up with Pepper securely under his arm, his hand threaded through her harness, ensuring he still maintained four points of contact with the ladder. Tracey was immensely relieved to be ashore and took Pepper for a long walk around the boardwalk to Stonehaven beach, on the other side of the harbour, and then back through the pretty town.

Stonehaven's Charm and a Fireball Legacy

Stonehaven, once known as Kilwhang, is located about 15 miles south of Aberdeen. It was historically a very busy fishing port, particularly renowned for its herring catches, though its main business now revolves around tourism. Approximately two miles south of Stonehaven lies Dunnottar Castle, a ruined medieval fortress steeped in rich history. The castle has played host to notable historical figures, including William Wallace and Mary Queen of Scots. It is perhaps best known as the hiding place of the Honours of Scotland (the Scottish Crown Jewels) from Oliver Cromwell's army in the 1650s; they now reside safely in Edinburgh Castle. The castle was even used for portions of the film Hamlet, starring Mel Gibson and Glenn Close. We would have loved to visit, but arriving so late and with plans to leave the next morning, time, tide, and weather were once again not on our side.

Stonehaven is also famous for its spectacular Fireball Ceremony that takes place at midnight on December 31st each year. This unique ceremony has been performed annually since 1908, pausing only during the First and Second World Wars to avoid revealing their position. The ceremony is widely believed to be a tradition rooted in ancient practices of cleansing and warding off evil spirits, with some sources suggesting it's a purification ritual to ensure a fresh start to the New Year.

A Nightly Ritual and the Seas Ahead

Anyway, we digress, much like Tracey's walk did when she realised she would have to descend the ladder on her return. Nick, meanwhile, had been expertly adjusting the lines securing Halcyon Sea to the wall. He'd rigged a long line from the top of the ladder, securing it to the lowest visible rung. He then ran our midship line around the back of this fixed line, allowing it to slip freely up and down, moving with the tide. The bow and stern lines, sufficient at high water, would need checking and possibly adjusting at low water.

Nick had been watching for Tracey's return and was ready at the top of the ladder to take Pepper. He climbed down first, then stood ready to guide Tracey safely back onto the boat. Once secured, she vowed she would not leave the boat again until they arrived somewhere she considered more "safe."

Later, seeing a Facebook post from John and Dee of Fareham Sailing and Motorboat Club, who were using their Cobb barbecue, reminded us we had ours onboard. It seemed the perfect way to heat the Arbroath Smokies and hot-smoked salmon Tracey had purchased that morning. Following the fishmonger's instructions, Tracey soaked the smokie in very hot water, allowing us to easily prise the fish open and remove the bones while keeping it moist. We served it with a fresh salad. While Tracey wasn't a fan, Nick thoroughly enjoyed his fish supper.

The day's events had taken their toll, and tiredness had truly set in. Nick set an alarm for 3 am to check the lines and was up again at 5 am, thinking he heard strange noises. It had been an experience. Was it as bad as Tracey thought? At the time, and for her, yes it was. But she now understood the process and what was expected, though she sincerely hoped it wouldn't be a frequent occurrence. We leave for Peterhead tomorrow, another long day, marking four consecutive days of sailing – the longest stretch we've done without a significant stopover. Only three more stops, hopefully, before we finally reach the Caledonian Canal!En savoir plus