Holiday Vibes, then Burnham Ahoy

Days 23 & 24: Holiday Vibes, Then Burnham Ahoy!

Our final full day in Chatham felt gloriously… lazy! The sun was positively beaming, and we wholeheartedly embraced its golden invitation to do absolutely nothing of great importance. A pact was made: tonight, we’d treat ourselves to a proper meal out, ensuring Halcyon Sea was shipshape and Bristol fashion for our early departure the next morning.

Pepper, ever the priority, enjoyed her constitutional, and then we sauntered out, feeling positively holiday-esque. Cocktails at Pier 5, overlooking the marina bustle, set the relaxed tone before we indulged in a pizza feast at Fireaway. And oh, did Lady Luck decide to sprinkle some extra deliciousness our way! Apparently, a large order had been cancelled, but the pizza-making magic was already in motion. Not only did we receive a complimentary side of cheesy garlic bread (pure heaven!), but while we were still waiting our main event, our wonderful waiter presented us with an entire extra pizza to take away – tomorrow's lunch sorted for our long journey! Talk about a slice of good fortune!

Our alarms jolted us awake at the crack of 6 am. The Chatham lock operates with the punctuality of a Swiss watch, on the hour and half hour, and our target was the 7:30 am exodus. Pepper and Tracey enjoyed their final Chatham Riverwalk, perhaps a little shorter than usual, but strategically timed for Tracey to assess the sea state and relay the intel back to Captain Nick, who was below deck conjuring morning tea and prepping Halcyon Sea for her onward voyage.

Leaving Chatham proved surprisingly (and thankfully!) less dramatic than our arrival. Lines were slipped at 7:24 am, and by 7:44 am, we were gliding back down the River Medway, heading out to sea. We passed the majestic John H Amos paddle tug, a vessel steeped in history and a true survivor, having battled adversity to maintain her rightful place on the water (a fascinating tale you can delve into at www.medwaymaritimetrust.org.uk/johnhamos/pages/…). With a gentle whisper of wind (finally!) and the tide playing nicely, our passage out of the Medway was significantly swifter than our previous, somewhat fraught, journey in. Before long, the ghostly masts of the SS Richard Montgomery loomed into view once more, a stark and spectacular reminder of wartime history.

We crossed the Thames Estuary, heading past the South Essex coastline. A noticeable shift occurred in the water's hue, transforming into a murky green-brown, sadly littered with debris – a disheartening mix of natural flotsam and man-made rubbish. Wind farms dotted the horizon, though few of their giant blades were turning. In the distance, a peculiar pagoda-like structure emerged – Knock John Fort, another of those fascinating Maunsell sea forts from WWII. Each of its two towers housed seven floors for accommodation and storage, topped by a gun deck, an upper deck, and a central radar control unit. This fort, too, had its moment in the radio waves, hosting Radio Essex in the mid-1960s. Every day is a school day on this adventure!

The weather remained glorious, and with the wind still playing coy, we continued our motor-powered journey, our eyes peeled for the buoys marking our safe passage through the labyrinth of hidden sandbanks. The surprising distance between these navigational aids kept us both alert, even Pepper seemed to take her watch duty with unusual seriousness, the most engaged we'd seen her mid-passage! Finally, we spotted the southerly cardinal buoy, our cue to turn into the River Crouch. The charts depicted a notoriously narrow channel, so we were pleasantly surprised by its apparent width – though the approaching high water certainly contributed to our comfort levels. We took it steady in this unfamiliar territory, observing the local sailors confidently cutting corners and powerboats skimming daringly over the sandy shallows. A synchronized navigation effort ensued, Nick glued to Navionics while Tracey diligently cross-referenced with the Cruising Almanac, a reassuring double-check all the way.

Then, there it was – Fairway 11, our turning point into Burnham Yacht Harbour! The channel did indeed narrow, and with the wind and tide now conspiring against us, we had a little wrestle to keep Halcyon Sea on her intended path to the entrance. Our allocated berth came into view, and from our approach angle, it looked… snug. Tracey took a deep breath. "We've got this!" And we did! Yes, the pontoon was short, but the Harbour Master, true to his word, had provided us with a wider, more stable platform. As we drew closer, the gap to our berth proved far more generous than initially perceived. We were in!

Glorious sunshine bathed Burnham-on-Crouch as we secured Halcyon Sea. A brisk walk and an enthusiastic runaround for Pepper in the fields behind the marina followed, culminating in our well-deserved celebratory drinks back on board. Another port ticked off the list, another safe arrival accomplished! Burnham Yacht Marina had a familiar feel, reminding us fondly of all our wonderful friends back in Fareham who are currently enjoying a rally in Bembridge. While we were missing out on all the fun and frivolity they were undoubtedly experiencing, we raised a virtual glass in their direction. May the sun continue to shine on their Bembridge escapades, and may a grand time be had by all! Our own Burnham adventure was just beginning!Baca selengkapnya