Kittiwake Condos & Surprise Visitor

Lowestoft: From Sunrise Town to Kittiwake Condos (and a Surprise Visitor!)

Our time in Lowestoft, the UK's most easterly town and the first place to greet the sunrise, was destined to be a fleeting one. With just a single day to prepare Halcyon Sea for the next, and longest, leg of our journey to Grimsby, sightseeing unfortunately took a back seat to meticulous planning and an early night.

Lowestoft boasts a rich and varied history, evolving from its mention in the Domesday Book of 1086 to the thriving tourist resort it is today. In the Middle Ages, it flourished as an important fishing town, a trade that remained central to its identity well into the 20th century. A significant milestone in 1609 saw the construction of Lowestoft's first lighthouse, also the first in Great Britain, its beacon then powered by humble candles. Fast forward to June 1665, and the naval Battle of Lowestoft, part of the Second Anglo-Dutch War, unfolded some 40 miles offshore, culminating in an English victory. The town embraced modernity in 1903 with its first tramway, though the arrival of buses in 1927 proved so popular that they completely replaced the tram service by 1931. Today, while the fishing industry has gradually declined, Lowestoft thrives as a tourist destination, and a stroll along its promenade quickly reveals why. The sea wall, having undergone numerous transformations throughout history, is currently benefiting from government grants, with ongoing regeneration work promising new fountains, enhanced lighting, and extensive biodiversity improvements.

South of Claremont Pier, the beach is truly stunning, its golden sands and designated games areas evoking the feel of a Mediterranean coastline. This is a Blue Flag beach, signifying its adherence to the Foundation for Environmental Education (FEE) standards for environmental management, encompassing water quality, safety, and public environmental education. Looking out from Claremont Pier, we spotted two peculiar structures in the sea (we seem to have a knack for finding oddities!). A quick bit of research by Tracey revealed these were ingenious nesting boxes designed for Kittiwakes. Each structure can astonishingly house up to 500 pairs of these graceful seabirds! Developed by a multidisciplinary team of ornithologists, architects, ecologists, and engineers, these structures feature narrow ledges and vertical sides, cleverly mimicking the natural cliffs where Kittiwakes typically nest.

Beyond our fascinating research into Lowestoft's past and present, Sunday dissolved into a blur of dog walks, a Sunday roast dinner cooked onboard, meticulous passage planning for Grimsby, and a much-needed early night.

Monday arrived, bringing with it the familiar flutter of anxiety that accompanies a new destination. While our confidence at sea steadily grows with each passage, that healthy fear of the unknown remains a constant companion. Nick, ever the diligent captain, busied himself with boat checks and ticking off jobs from his list, while Tracey embarked on a crucial shopping mission. We're quickly learning that preparing for longer passages requires a different approach than that of our weekend soirées around the Solent. With a daunting 20-hour trip ahead of us, we decided to make life onboard a little easier. Our shopping list included pre-packed sandwiches, ready meals, a generous supply of chocolate and other snacks, and even pre-cut melon and pineapple slices. Yes, we could have made sandwiches, but this way, we had a varied selection, crucial for Tracey, who often struggles with her appetite while underway and is not a fan of preparing food in a rolling galley.

Mid-shopping-stowage, a voice hailed Halcyon Sea from the pontoon. We initially assumed it was marina staff, expecting our departure. Instead, we were delightfully surprised by a fellow sailor who had been following our journey on AIS, having heard about our travels through the RNSA newsletter! We welcomed Jeremy onboard, and the next hour was filled with lively conversation, spinning "dits" (naval slang for stories) about our respective navy days, sailing histories, and adventures. It was such a genuinely welcome surprise and incredibly heartwarming to meet someone who had taken such an interest in our journey, enough to come and visit! The only regret? In our excitement, we completely forgot to ask Jeremy to sign our guestbook! So, Jeremy, if you're reading this, next time you're onboard, that guestbook awaits!

Before our departure, a final stop at the fuel pontoon was necessary. Tracey took Pepper ashore for her last land-based walk, returning with the quintessential seaside treats: hot, fresh donuts and a couple of sticks of classic Lowestoft Rock. With full tanks and happy bellies (and a slightly sugared-up crew!), we were ready. The next episode of our blog will recount the epic passage to Grimsby!Read more