North Shields Down Time & Amble Respite

North Shields: Downtime, Discovery, and Dolphins to Amble!

Our stay in North Shields felt different, not because of the place itself, but due to a shift in our perspective, particularly for Tracey. The previous docking incident had undeniably left its mark. Compounding this, we had begun to map out the daunting next leg of our journey towards the Caledonian Canal, noting the seemingly challenging access to potential stopping points. Stonehaven, for instance, involved tying alongside a wall rather than a pontoon – a completely new manoeuvre for us both. With confidence momentarily rattled, Nick suggested turning back, not out of desire, but to offer Tracey options. However, retreating wasn't an option for Tracey either; we'd come too far, and quitting simply isn't in her DNA. Instead, we opted for a deliberately easy few days, starting with the mountain of laundry and the perpetual list of boat chores.

The marina itself was pleasant, though like many we'd visited, it was surrounded by housing, giving it a somewhat "concrete jungle" feel. We had a clear view of the enormous DFDS ferry departing daily for Holland, and Pepper thoroughly enjoyed the lovely patch of green space nearby. We also became regulars at The Lock cafe, frequenting it twice during our stay – once for lunch/dinner and another time purely for coffee and cake. The marina office staff were both friendly and helpful, providing detailed local maps and instructions for venturing into Newcastle if we chose. For the first time, Tracey wasn't in the mood for sightseeing, preferring to focus on chores and some much-needed pamper time. This pause highlighted a realisation: despite not having "work," we had been continuously on the go for two months, either planning or executing our next move. Every day felt like a weekend, yet we hadn't truly taken a break. It was definitely time for some downtime.

The weather wasn't conducive for moving on anyway; we faced a choice of leaving on Wednesday (we arrived Monday) or staying until the following Monday. Tuesday was dedicated to starting the laundry, and Tracey finally delved into her Kindle, downloading a couple of new books. One of Nick's former colleagues from SETT kindly arrived at the boat, offering a lift to the local chandlery, which afforded Tracey a precious hour of peace. Upon his return, Nick continued polishing the cockpit's white surfaces and had plans to re-waterproof the sprayhood. Wednesday dawned glorious and sunny. We debated moving again but ultimately decided to stay put and fully embrace the perfect weather for a genuine chill day. Tracey indulged in a pamper session, giving herself a pedicure and manicure before losing herself completely in her Kindle – once her nose was in a book, the outside world vanished. Meanwhile, Nick continued his boat pottering, diligently avoiding anything that might disturb Tracey's newfound serenity. Thursday arrived, and Tracey felt significantly better; perhaps the enforced downtime was exactly what she'd needed. We walked to Fish Quay for some shopping and a change of scenery. That evening, we cooked onboard and started a Netflix series. We hadn't turned the television on since Dover! The series, "Dept Q," proved instantly captivating, and four episodes later, we decided we really should head to bed, as we planned to move the next day, seizing a newly presented weather window. We were definitely ready for a new environment to explore. Friday arrived, and we busied ourselves stowing the cockpit tent and prepping Halcyon Sea for departure.

Leaving for Amble: A Lively Ride to England's Edge!

As we prepared to leave, a shared sense of anxiety, though unspoken, hung in the air. Although a passing couple had suggested a shortcut through the gap at Coquet Island and even Navionics backed up their theory, we firmly opted to go around the back of the island. We had no desire for shortcuts or further incidents. We radioed the marina, requesting a lock out, which was granted. We made our way around to the open lock entrance and tied alongside – so far, so good. After exiting the lock, we called Tyne VTS, who advised us to wait for a commercial vessel to pass before entering the river. We spotted the vessel, waited patiently, and all remained calm.

As we made our way to the harbour entrance, the wind hit us – far windier than predicted! What on earth was going on with these forecasts?
On our port side before we reached the entrance stands a tall statue dedicated to Vice Admiral Lord Cuthbert Collingwood. A Napoleonic-era admiral noted for being second-in-command to Admiral Lord Nelson during the Battle of Trafalgar, Collingwood is sometimes referred to as the forgotten hero of Trafalgar.
Just as we reached the entrance, we were greeted, once again, by a truly spectacular display: dolphins putting on an incredible show, breaching, jumping, and twisting out of the water right before us.

We pointed the boat northwards, and the true character of the day became clear. The sea, a challenging mix of waves and swells, made for a lively ride. Halcyon Sea responded to the ocean's motion, heaving and rolling significantly. We cautiously rolled out the Genoa, hoping for a little more stability, but it seemed to make little difference. We were moving at a brisk 7 knots just under the Genoa alone. Keeping a lookout for fishing buoys became a full-on challenge; they were incredibly difficult to spot in the waves, sometimes only bobbing to the surface just as we were passing. Both Pepper and Tracey felt unwell, and we briefly contemplated diverting into Blyth. With not much there and no other weather window until at least Monday, Tracey, despite her discomfort, bravely insisted we continue. The wind intensified, whipping up the sea and gusting to 30 knots. Halcyon Sea was being tossed about, making it the most uncomfortable sustained period we had experienced on our entire journey. We could clearly see the lighthouse on Coquet Island in the distance, watching impassively as we were buffeted by the elements, willing for everything to calm down, but instead, the wind intensified.

Immediate action was required. We needed to furl the sail, and Nick remained at the helm, working to keep Halcyon Sea on course against the strong wind while Tracey worked the winch. It was a demanding physical effort, each winch turn a testament to willpower. It took three arduous attempts to finally put the sail away – it was utterly exhausting!

Amble's Respite and a Scottish Promise

Despite the chaos, we persevered, we had no choice. Ahead, milder seas and the reappearance of the sun offered a renewed sense of calm. We settled back into the rhythm, pushing towards our new destination.

We finally spotted the harbour entrance and diligently followed the track, carefully avoiding the shallows. Amble also has a cill at its marina entrance. We arrived two hours before high water, ensuring ample depth to pass over the cill and move to locate our allocated berth. We were utterly worn out when we finally tied up. After walking Pepper and registering with the marina office, we simply collapsed, taking time to sit and rest. Dinner at the Fish Shack, right on the harbour edge, was a welcome reward. As we made our way back to the boat, the wind had completely died down, and the sunset was truly stunning; it had transformed into a really pleasant evening. The stark contrast between the challenging journey and the serene arrival felt almost surreal, but we had made it. This is our last stop in England; next stop is Eyemouth. We will have officially made it to Scotland, an achievement to be immensely proud of. For now, though, we're going to savour Amble, its quaintness, and everything it has to offer: its scenic river walks, long golden beaches, numerous restaurants and local pubs, and the historic Warkworth medieval village just a 30-minute stroll away. Amble might just become our new favourite place.Leer más