Amble to Scotland: A Coastal Leap

Amble to Scotland: A Coastal Leap and Eyemouth's Embrace!

Our time in Amble had gracefully reached its conclusion. Suitably refreshed and re-energised, we stood ready to tackle our next challenge: Eyemouth. This wasn't just another port; this was Scotland! A major milestone in our grand circumnavigation. Before setting off, we needed to top up our fuel, the pontoon conveniently situated right at the end, just before exiting the cill and the marina. A familiar companion, anxiety, had once again crept in, which, frankly, was annoying. You'd think by now we'd be seasoned pros, but it's simply not the case. Nick's anxiety tends to manifest as we leave a port, while Tracey's kicks in upon arrival at a new destination. Perhaps it's just the fear of the unknown, but we're choosing to see it as a "yin and yang" dynamic – we balance each other out, and that can only be a good thing.

With Halcyon Sea refuelled, we restarted the engine and gently pushed ourselves off the pontoon. The sea lay calm before us, with barely a whisper of wind. We chugged our way along the pier towards the harbour entrance. A small fishing vessel, with only one man aboard, suddenly decided to pull out of his berth and head straight across our bow – a jolt of excitement we definitely didn't need this early in the day! As we reached the harbour entrance, the distinctive lighthouse of Coquet Island came into view. We would pass the island to starboard as we made our way north alongside the stunning Northumberland coastline. From this new vantage point, we could clearly make out all the picturesque spots Lee and Zoe had so generously shown us by car yesterday. It was fascinating how different they looked from the sea, and we'll admit, Google Maps occasionally came in handy to help identify some of the beaches.

Farne Islands, Puffins, and a Holy Detour
A few hours into our journey brought us to Seahouses and the famous Farne Islands. Once again, it was the distinctive lighthouse that provided our reliable bearing. We followed our track, watching the day tripper boats shuttle back and forth between the mainland and the islands, ferrying tourists eager to glimpse the abundant wildlife. The latest, much-talked-about addition to the list of attractions was a pod of Orcas, reportedly taking up residence to feast on the burgeoning seal pup population. Secretly, Tracey harboured a fervent hope for a glimpse, but alas, it was not to be. Our track kept us well clear of the islands and the hidden, unforgiving rocks that lay in wait, ready to claim any vessels that ventured too close. We passed inside the Farne Islands, and our course then took us outside of Holy Isle, otherwise known as Lindisfarne.

Holy Isle, or Lindisfarne, earned its revered name as one of the most important centres of early Christianity in Anglo-Saxon England. It was here, in 635 AD, that Saint Aidan founded a monastery which became a flourishing centre for evangelism and scholarship, notably home to St. Cuthbert and the creation of the illuminated Lindisfarne Gospels. This rich spiritual heritage is why it transitioned from simply being known as Lindisfarne to the deeply significant "Holy Isle."

Halcyon Sea had been too far from any of the islands to spot any major wildlife spectacles, but we frequently saw tiny puffins bobbing in the water next to us. They were much smaller than we had imagined for some reason! Their camera-shy nature, however, made getting a clear picture of one an almost impossible mission. As we felt safe enough to do so, we turned off the engine, embracing the quiet glide of sailing, though the sea remained dotted with fishing buoys that demanded constant vigilance. We steered a good distance offshore to avoid them and were making excellent time. We knew we'd have to slow down slightly, as entry into Eyemouth was only possible around high water. We thoroughly enjoyed our sail, eventually having to tack to windward to bring ourselves back inshore and onto our final track.

Eyemouth's Narrow Embrace and a Fisherman's Bounty
Our waypoint reached, we continued along the coast towards Eyemouth. A local fisherman was also making his way in, and as the harbour is naturally protected by a ring of rocks, we politely requested he go before us, leading the way into the narrow entrance. He obligingly consented, and we were incredibly grateful. The harbour mouth is remarkably tight, a mere 17 meters wide! As you enter, there’s a sharp right-hand turn to reach the inner harbour and the visitor pontoon. The Harbour Master was there to greet us, along with another visitor, Sam, who had been there for a while. Both helped us secure our lines. One of the local harbour seals, with large, eerie eyes, came to greet us too, watching our every movement on the pontoon, hopefully anticipating a fish we, unfortunately, didn't have to offer. The seal eventually moved back to a nearby hut near the entrance, where fresh fish can be purchased specifically for feeding the harbour seals. Hopefully, he had more luck there.

Tracey took Pepper for her walk. We were in another new place, and this, too, was a thriving fishing port. Pepper, much to Tracey's disgust, delighted in crunching on discarded langoustine claws left by seagulls along the harbour wall. Sam, meanwhile, had walked up to meet Gordon, the fisherman who had so kindly guided us in on "Fortunatous." Gordon had returned with his catch of mackerel. Sam explained that out of the ten boxes caught, about one and a fifth boxes contained fish too small for market – apparently, a good ratio. These smaller fish would be used as bait for lobster pots, while the majority of the catch would be shipped to France and Spain, as there isn't a large market for mackerel in the UK. He then asked if we wanted to try a fresh one and promised to ask Gordon to bring one back for us. By the time Pepper and Tracey returned to Halcyon Sea, Sam was walking along the pontoon, triumphantly carrying a freshly caught mackerel!

Scottish Shores, Smugglers' Tales, and a Somber Memorial
As it had been a long day – eight hours on the water – we opted to eat out and made our way to The Ship Inn, where Nick happily downed a couple of pints of Belhaven Best, one of his favourite Scottish beers. After dinner, we ambled around this small, quaint fishing town, allowing Pepper to run free on the beach.

Eyemouth, with its rugged coastline and hidden coves, has a long and storied history as a notorious smugglers' den. Local lore is rich with tales of illicit goods being brought ashore under the cover of darkness, evading customs officials with cunning and daring. Beyond the whispers of its illicit past, Eyemouth is also home to the poignant "Widows and Bairns" Memorial. This powerful sculpture, located overlooking the harbour, commemorates the devastating fishing disaster of October 14, 1881, when a sudden, violent storm claimed the lives of 189 Eyemouth fishermen, leaving 160 widows and 350 fatherless children. It's a stark reminder of the harsh realities and profound losses faced by coastal communities.

We had decided to make the most of this period of calm weather to push on up the east coast. As such, we planned to go to Arbroath the next day. This marks the first time on this adventure that we have sailed two consecutive days! It also feels very strange as we are now going to bed and it is still light outside. Scotland, here we come!Read more