Peterhead to Inverness Via Whitehills

Peterhead to Inverness via Whitehills: A Northern Scottish Odyssey!

Our late evening arrival into Whitehills meant a wonderfully late start was afforded to us, allowing plenty of time to dismantle the cockpit tent and prepare Halcyon Sea for departure. It was yet another eight-hour day stretching ahead, but the weather looked exceptionally favourable, and the sea was calm – a welcome contrast to our eventful arrival in Peterhead. We set off in high spirits, feeling rested and genuinely excited as our ultimate goal, the Caledonian Canal, drew ever closer.

We left Peterhead under bright blue skies, but the minute we exited the harbour walls, a thick bank of fog rolled in, behind us, thankfully. Ahead, the air was misty, but visibility remained good. Looking back towards Peterhead, it was undeniably "dreach," a wonderfully apt Scottish term often used to describe dull, dreary, and bleak weather conditions. Along the coastline, a refinery of some sort blazed, its chimney emitting an orange glow. We passed Rattray Head, renowned as one of the most wild and secluded places on the coast of Aberdeenshire. The beach here stretches for seventeen miles from Peterhead to St. Combs, punctuated by wind-sculpted dunes that reach a staggering 100 feet in height. Remnants of several shipwrecks can still be seen on the beach, and legend tells of shipowners deliberately grounding their vessels on the rocks as part of a primitive insurance fraud. On calm days, the turquoise waters gently lap at the unspoilt golden sands, but Rattray Head Beach has always posed a hidden danger to passing ships. Today, we were in no such peril and passed by easily. Fraserburgh came and went without incident. Tracey felt a lingering nervousness about this stretch of water, having many times sat up on the sea wall looking out to turbulent seas.

Rounding Kinnaird Head and a Tight Whitehills Entry

We then rounded Kinnaird Head. The original lighthouse here was ingeniously built within a converted castle, with its modern replacement constructed in 1991. Kinnaird Head holds the distinction of being the first operational lighthouse built in Scotland by the Northern Lighthouse Board. Here, the coastline turns a dramatic 90 degrees, and we found ourselves heading west again. We arrived near Whitehills a little early, so we spent some time circling offshore until we were able to enter the Marina. We even gave it a little extra time, just to be sure. The entrance to the harbour was difficult to discern; it requires taking a wide berth to avoid rocks, then turning sharply back on oneself. Two tall stick posts and a large white splodge of paint on the outer wall marked the narrow entry point. My goodness, this was tight! With only 20cm under our keel, we were profoundly grateful for that additional buffer time as we inched forward. A sharp 90-degree left turn took us into the outer harbour, where the visitor berths are situated. A sharp right turn and then a 180-degree pivot brought us alongside the pontoon, facing the correct direction for an easier exit. The wind, as always, kept us on our toes, first gusting to push us into the harbour entrance faster than we wanted, and then pushing us off the pontoon, making our docking procedure far more challenging. Tracey has learned to keep quiet during these moments, allowing Nick to work his magic and placing all her trust in him. A bow thruster would have been a handy tool to have here, though! It was late, and the pub had stopped serving food at 7 pm, leaving us no option other than to cook onboard. Opting for something quick and easy, sausage, egg, and chips was as much as we could muster. We needed to leave by 9:30 am for Inverness, and with a 12-hour day ahead, sleep called.

Departing Whitehills and the Moray Firth Beckons

Waking with the thought of exiting this tight little marina was a little daunting, but what comes in, must go out! A Dutch boat had followed us in and was also leaving that morning. We had all decided to push for Inverness, as Lossiemouth, our preferred interim stop, had put out a notice to mariners stating there was dredging activity going on, and they might be able to make alternative arrangements. It was once again not worth the bother, and although a 12-hour day, we knew we would be passing some truly spectacular scenery. As the weather was good (we have been so incredibly lucky!), it made perfect sense to push on through. Inverness Marina could be accessed at any state of tide; we just had to contend with some shallow waters before Kessock Bridge and watch out for the current running under the bridge that could pose some difficulties.

We left Whitehills with no wind and plenty of water beneath us; it seemed much easier to navigate in these conditions. We passed so many picturesque coves and charming small towns, far too many to mention individually. However, we managed to get a lovely picture of the viaduct at Cullen. As we approached Lossiemouth, a couple of Eurofighters roared over the top of us, the noise of their engines deafening before they quickly vanished through the cloud cover. Lossiemouth is probably the most northerly point we will reach this season. We passed Findhorn, a place we would have loved to visit but that was too shallow for us to enter.

The Majesty of the Scottish Coastline

Here, for the first time since Grimsby, land embraced us on both sides. The green hills rolled into each other, a magnificent tapestry of verdant slopes cascading towards the water's edge. These are the ancient, timeless contours of the Scottish coastline, where the land meets the sea in a breathtaking display of nature's artistry. The hills undulate with a soft, inviting grace, each curve and hollow cloaked in a rich palette of greens, from the bright, fresh hues of new growth to the deep, heather-laden tones of the uplands. They seem to flow with an inherent rhythm, a silent dance against the expansive sky, creating vistas that are both grand and intimately beautiful. This landscape speaks of quiet majesty, of resilience, and of an untamed beauty that has shaped by the elements for millennia.

Inverness Achieved: Dolphins, Seals, and a Milestone Marked

We were now well into the Moray Firth. A playful pod of dolphins came close to Halcyon Sea, as if to welcome us, their sleek forms effortlessly slicing through the water. On the sandy banks near Ardersier, colonies of seals were basking in the sun, their dark forms stretched out in peaceful repose. We zigzagged our way into Rosemarkie Bay, hugging the edge to avoid the shallow waters in the centre of the bay. This also gave us our first clear view of Kessock Bridge, a sign that the end of our day was truly in sight. We only had to pass under the bridge and then turn left into Inverness Marina. The views that unfolded were utterly spectacular, filling us with a profound sense of serenity as we approached our destination.

We entered the marina and easily found our berth. We had made it. Another significant milestone accomplished on our journey. We were now only a mile away from the entrance to the Caledonian Canal.

This last week has tested us both mentally and physically, pushing our resolve. And we have triumphed. What an achievement. Neither of us can quite believe we've made it this far – from leaving Cowes on April 9th, 2025, to reaching the top of the Caledonian Canal on June 25th, 2025. We plan to take a well-deserved week's break here, aiming to be fully ready for the delights of the canal. There are some essential boat jobs to tackle, including an engine service, oil, and filter changes, as our trusty engine has accumulated many hours. We also have shopping to do to replenish supplies. Our plan is to enter the Canal on Wednesday, July 2nd. Fingers crossed the weather is kind to us.Read more