Rounding the Island of Ireland
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  • Day 1

    Introduction / False Start

    May 24, 2021 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    The winter had a strange effect on many sailors.

    It is often too windy, cold and wet to think about going sailing and for others like myself who have out boats out of the water it’s just not possible anyway.
    So instead we sit at home reading sailing magazines, looking at cruising guides and any of the hardships of last season are quickly forgotten as we instead dream of idyllic voyages to magical islands as we wonder where we’ll go next summer.
    It is always doing to be better next year!

    During the winter of 2020 I had the ‘luck’ of sitting for too long in Jim O’Meara’s company and chatting about ‘next year’.
    Before I knew it, I had agreed to accompany Jim’s boat ‘Second Chance’ around Ireland.
    I’m still scratching my head wondering how it happened as there wasn’t even a drink to give me an excuse.

    Once I got home, I got out the books, the charts and the dividers and began putting some flesh onto what Jim had been talking about.
    I soon had put together a plan which I hoped coincided with what Jim was thinking.
    Mainly it was to day sail around Ireland while visiting as many of the islands as possible keeping in mind that Jim’s wife Angela doesn’t like to be out late.

    Due to Covid we didn’t get to meet too often so the plan remained fairly loose and it was only when we got going that things firmed up.

    Jim picked Monday the 24th of May for a start as the days would be at their longest as we went around.
    I couldn’t argue with his reasoning but I had to get my finger out as I had been thinking of at least a month later and also I needed crew.

    I put out some feelers and I almost immediately a friend of mine phoned and said that he was onboard for the first thirty days.
    Brian has been a friend of mine since we began secondary school and it was he who had first taken me sailing.
    His family had a Vagabond dinghy in Monkstown which he took me out one day and such was his confidence in me that time that I was told not to touch anything on the dinghy!
    I was hooked and my sailing abilities I hope have much improved since.

    Well things were looking up, I was sure to get another couple of volunteers to crew……wasn’t I?
    Yeh! Dream on Fleming.

    Monday the 24th of May arrived but the forecast wasn’t great with WNW Force 4 to 6 winds so we delayed 24 hours.
    Brian and I continued with last minute jobs as ‘Eureka’ heeled over in the gusts at East Ferry marina. Right decision to stay put!
    It’s great to have a deadline to make you do things that had been put off again and again but also to have an extra day at the end to get them finished.
    With a boat you’re never finished………!

    That evening found Jim & Angela aboard ‘Second Chance’ and Brian & I on ‘Eureka’ as it turned out that both crews were planning on sleeping aboard due to the early start tomorrow.
    An invitation was issued and Brian and I joined the O’Meara’s for a glass of wine.
    A pleasant hour or two passed with Brian getting to meet and know Jim and Angela and visa versa and we even put a plan together for where we were sailing to tomorrow.
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  • Day 2

    To Glandore with a bit of fog

    May 25, 2021 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    The forecast seemed to have got it right and the winds had eased when we woke up about 07.00.
    Unfortunally it was raining but we didn't care. Any start is a good start.
    Visibility was down to half a mile as we followed ‘Second Chance’ out of the harbour.
    Navigation was done on the plotter. We could barely see Jim but had him on AIS but as we only had a receiver and not a transponder they couldn’t see us.

    At the Daunt we at last had enough wind and hoisted sail and were off on a reach in a Southerly Force 3-4.
    Jim radioed that they had passed a large whale but we never saw it but did see a basking shark off Oysterhaven.

    The rain had stopped by the time we got to the Old Head and we could at last see 'Second Chance' inside us while we stayed a little further offshore.

    We were making 7 knts. on a reach and beginning to eat into the miles to Glandore as the wind strengthen a bit.
    The wind went around to the east crossing Clonakility bay and our genoa didn’t like it as it was being smothered by the main. We tried goose winging for a while but in the end we furled the genny in a bit to reduce the overlap which helped.
    The wind died approaching the Galley so we furled the genny and later dropped the main, motoring into Glandore and picked up a visitors mooring at 17.30 closely followed in by ‘Second Chance’.

    The bimini was put up, not for the sun but to keep the rain off. Unfortunally it started again as we entered the harbour and it didn't stop until after we were in bed. Jim & Angela had the luxury of a cockpit tent.

    Brian and I chilled out with a beer as we decided not to bother going ashore as there was nothing open anyway due to covid.
    We organised with Jim & Angela about tomorrow, destination Cape Clear and leaving by 09.00. Simple?
    Had the dinner, washed down with a beer and after a long chat with Brian, headed to bed.
    We had made the start and the weather had to improve, didn’t it?
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  • Day 3

    Sun has come out...for a while

    May 26, 2021 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    It was dry when we woke. Jim was taking a walk around the deck which I took as a sign that he was itching to get going.
    Brian and I decided not to keep him waiting and to have breakfast on the go.
    We stowed the bimini and headed out under engine taking a shortcut inside Eve and Adam then stayed north of High Island keeping one eye on Belly Rock, hoisting the main on the way but the gentle breeze soon disappeared and we ended up motorsailing to Barlogue Creek where ‘Eureka’ anchored and ‘Second Chance’ rafted up while we had lunch and the sun even came out.
    What a difference a day makes!

    There was a lovely breeze outside when we left and we had a reach to Gascanane Sound.
    Soon after we went through the sound we dropped the sails and prepared the boats to enter North Harbour on Cape Clear.
    ‘Second Chance’ entered first and ‘Eureka’ held off until Jim had berthed as it’s a tight fit inside, then we rafted up to her.
    We then started what became standard procedure by joining the O’Meara’s for pre-dinner drinks before returning to 'Eureka' for our own dinner.

    The rain had been off and on during the day but it didn’t stop us going for walks, doing a bit of provisioning in the local shop and sometimes getting wet doing so.

    I can’t remember if we had planned to stay a second night or if it was the wind that made us stay put but stay put we did.
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  • Day 4

    A Goat and a Castle

    May 27, 2021 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    There was a Southerly force 4 to 6 outside so we stayed put.
    The rain was off and on during the day but it didn’t stop us going for walks, doing a bit of provisioning in the local shop and sometimes getting wet doing so.

    Brian embarrassed me into doing a spring clean on Eureka and after dinner Jim and I went searching for Dun an Óir, a ruined O’Driscoll castle to the west of the harbour.

    We upset a farmer on the way. ‘No Trespassing’ means what it says even if it’s written in English in a Gaeltacht.
    I also discovered that Jim likes to walk and walk and doesn’t easily give up.
    After crossing many fields and meeting a too friendly goat we climbed one last hill and there it was in front of us. Luckily the goat was gone on our journey back.

    That night a surge started in the harbour in the early hours. Both Jim and I were up adjusting warps while the others slept but at least it had stopped raining while we did so.
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  • Day 5

    From one island to another

    May 28, 2021 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Woke up early, tired after our late night antics, to find Jim was ready to go.
    Pressure, pressure! Well, he couldn’t go until I did.

    We headed out at 08.30 with the sun shining down on us. It wasn’t warm but it was dry and bright, lovely.
    Our destination was Lawrence Cove on Bere Island.

    The winds were light, still we had a nice beat until the Mizen but when we eased sheets to head north towards Berehaven, we slowed.
    As we passed Castle Head we came on a large pod of common dolphins and one of them ‘walked’ on its tail, not once but twice. The first time, except in films, that I have seen that, absolutely amazing.
    Finally while crossing Bantry Bay the wind got so light that we had to motorsail until we reached Lawrence Cove.

    The marina was full as many boats wintering there had not left for their summer moorings, due to covid.
    Rachel was planning on bringing her sons to the beach as by now the day had got hot, we told her that we’d raft up ourselves and see her later.
    It turned out that we were the first visitors of the season to the marina.
    Once securely tied up we had Jim & Angela aboard for an ‘arrival drink’, any excuse will do.

    Brian went for a walk while I filled the water tanks and did some boaty stuff.
    When Brian returned he served up another lovely dinner and afterwards all four of us walked up to the gun battery on the east end of the island and enjoyed the views over the bay on a lovely warm sunny evening.
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  • Day 6

    Peaceful Dunboy

    May 29, 2021 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Today we had a lazy start as we were only going to the other end of Berehaven.
    We were heading for Dunboy, a small quite wooded inlet to the west of Castletownbere.
    The weather was a bit cloudy in the morning but soon improved to give u a lovely sunny afternoon and evening.

    Having got some provisions in Rerrin Village before we left, we decided we’d wait to have lunch at Dunboy.
    We motored down Berehaven as it wasn’t worth hoisting sail and the wind was not playing ball anyway.
    I played the tour guide as we motored west as I had spent many holidays here.
    My mother grew up in Castletownbere and most years it was where we went in the summer.

    At 13.35 we dropped our anchors off 'Dunboy House' also know as 'Puxley Manor' which was once owned by the Puxley family who owned and ran the Allihies copper mines.
    The house often incorrectly called 'Dunboy Castle' had been burned down in the war of independence but rebuilt in the 2000’s as a hotel but never completely finished inside due to the financial crash.
    I used to enjoy playing around the ruins in the 60’s while holidaying in the area and hopefully it will be completed before too long.

    After lunch we launched the dinghies and went ashore to have a look around and stretch the legs.
    There is now a lovely walk around the headland and there we met a man whose mother was from Cobh, a Mary Jo Walsh. Maybe someone knows of her. It’s a small world.

    On the headland is the ruins of O'Sullivan Bere's castle the real 'Dunboy Castle' which was destroyed by the English after the Irish defeat in the Battle of Kinsale.

    Back to ‘Second Chance’ for pre-dinner drinks and then home to ‘Eureka’ for our own dinner. We ate while sitting in the cockpit on a lovely calm sunny evening watching the sun doing down. This is the way cruising is meant to be.
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  • Day 7

    Sweltering Derrynane

    May 30, 2021 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    I woke up to a beautiful morning and as it was early I read for a while until I heard Brian moving around.
    We had breakfast in the cockpit and then began preparing to depart the anchorage.

    The anchor had dug in too well and we had to manouvour a little under engine until it broke out.
    We were on our way by 08.50 following 'Second Chance' out past Piper Sound into the open sea.

    The wind was very light and after trying to sail for a bit, we had to motorsail with just the main up for the first hour and a half, then we had a nice broad reach to Dursey Sound where we furled the genny and heaved to waiting for ‘Second Chance’ to catch up. Jim had tried to sail without the engine so had fallen back.

    They had never been through the sound before, so we lead the the way.
    While I know it says in the sailing directions that the cable car that crosses the sound is much higher than ‘Eureka’s’ mast, I still slowed as I could see the car was going to be right over us as we approached.
    From deck level everything looks much lower or is it the mast looks much taller, or is it both?

    On the north side of the sound the wind was behind us and we tried goose-winging for a bit before going on a broad reach and gybing later to make Derrynane.
    We slowly went through the narrow entrance to Derrynane harbour keeping the leading marks in line and picked up a visitors mooring at 14.45.

    We changed to shorts as it was very hot but the seagulls were blinded by our legs which were still a brilliant white.
    After lunch we went ashore and visited the grounds of Daniel O’Connell’s house but didn’t go in. Later we went hunting for a standing stone before heading back on board for dinner.
    Everyone on ‘Eureka’ was snoring by 22.00 and looking forward to more great weather tomorrow.
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  • Day 8

    Brooding Skillig Michael

    May 31, 2021 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Today we planned on rounding Skellig Michael before heading to Knightstown.
    Unfortunally there was no sun coming in the hatch when we woke up and when we stuck our heads out to see why, we were greeted by a cold overcast windy day. After good weather over the last three days, I thought we were in for a bit of nice settled weather. No such luck.

    We cast off from the mooring at 08.10, shortly after Second Chance and followed them out through the narrow exit and hoisted the main once we had a bit of sea room. At least we had no shortage of wind and the direction also suited us.
    We put a reef in the main as we hoisted it and kept some of the genny furled.

    We had a quick reach out with the wind blowing 20 knots from the south. This later increased to 30 knts so we made great time out and we had to furl the genny to round the Skellig slowly in order to have a good look for Luke Skywalker.
    Didn’t see Luke but the monks huts were impressive as were the steps up to them.
    I don’t think I’ll ever have the nerve to climb to the top.
    The island looked dark and brooding due to the lack of sun unlike last year when I rounded it in bright sunshine.

    We left out about two thirds of the genny and continued on to Valentia on a broad reach doing over 7 knots and exceeding hull speed at times.
    When we got north of Valentia Island the wind suddenly began gusting strongly (downdraughts?) and we quickly dropped the sails, at the same time radioing ‘Second Chance’ to warn them so that they were prepared when they arrived.
    We tied up to the pontoons in Knightstown Harbour in gusty conditions and assisted ‘Second Chance’ when they arrived soon after.

    We had lunch before wandering up to explore the village.
    Knightstown looked like the poster child for the Tidy Towns. It was so nice and clean that we were nearly checking to make sure we weren’t leaving any footprints on the ground as we walked around.

    Later it was back to Second Chance for drinks as they have the tent which kept out most of the wind before returning to Eureka for our own dinner and due to the weather we headed to bed about 22.00.
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  • Day 9

    A quick dash to Dingle

    June 1, 2021 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Eight days out and the beginning of a new month with hopefully better weather. Ha! Dream on.

    I woke up after a medical procedure and having been tested positive for covid.
    When I woke up a second time I was cured!
    Luckily it was only a dream. I normally don’t remember my dreams but this one I did.

    It had started raining last night and was still raining this morning but the wind had gone.
    After breakfast Brian did a run up town while I visited the O’Meara’s to discuss plans.

    We decided to continue onto Dingle as the forecast for the next few days was not great and we’d prefer to be stuck in Dingle with its better facilities than here in Knightstown.
    We motored the whole way across the bay as it was wet, cold and there was a stiff breeze on the nose. We just wanted to get there and tie up.

    Unfortunally Fungie was gone so we had no welcome, didn’t hang about and went straight to the marina and tied up at 15.00.

    We had a brief chat with Peter, the Marina Superintendent, got hooked up to power and turned on the heating to warm ourselves. I did say it was June and not November?

    Brian and I went up the town for a walk and later Jim & Angela joined us.
    On the way back, Jim & Brian went into a chipper and ordered dinner while Angela and went directly back to the boats to get the tables ready.
    Can't remember what we had but it involved some type of fish and was delicious.

    We had the heating on all evening and after watching some tv we headed to bed knowing that we are not going anywhere tomorrow.
    Today is Tuesday and it looks like we won't be leaving till Friday so we just have to chill out.
    The one great thing about retirement is that I have plenty of time.
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  • Day 10

    Rain, Rain and more Rain.

    June 2, 2021 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    I didn't get up until I heard Brian moving around.
    Bad weather just makes me feel like staying in my cabin and hibernating.
    Brian is the opposite and nothing ever seems to get him down for long.
    The wind is not too strong today but it's dull and overcast and that's just when it's not raining.

    A low has come in and is staying put for a while. Usually these come in the front door i.e. the south west and leave quickly by the back door, towards Scotland but this one is not playing by the rules.

    Brian made breakfast which was a good start and we headed up the town.
    He made me get a haircut, he has standards! Glad Maeve won't see it until Sligo. She doesn't like it too short.

    Brian used to work as a record wholesaler and he met and had a good chat with one of his old customers who works in the smallest record shop in Ireland. Well, that's what the sign says anyway.

    It is dry at times but we never can go into town and back again without having some rain along the way.
    However that didn't stop the four of us getting some takeaway pints
    We headed back to Eureka for lunch and I did some maintenance on the engine before we went back into the town and got pizzas which we brought back to the boat and settled in for the night with a bit of tv before putting our heads down.
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