Day 13 – From Spa Days to Switchbacks

We began Day 13 of our Italian and Swiss tour with an early cup of tea before packing up the van at Camping Sereno in Moniga del Garda. After navigating some questionable Google Maps directions down unpaved wine tracks, we reached the Termegarde Spa and Golf Resort. Gill headed into the spa while I set off on a pre-planned bike ride through the local hills and gravel trails.

My route started promisingly, if a little bramble-filled and steep in parts, but just as I descended into Salò, the heavens opened. A quick shelter under a tree gave way to a soaking as I pressed on, eventually deciding to cut my ride short. Several wrong turns and a drenching later, I found my way back to the spa—muddy, wet, and mildly dejected. The staff weren’t much help, so I sought comfort in the golf clubhouse with a croissant, a coffee, and some sun until Gill emerged, fresh from her serene experience.

Gill's day had been the opposite of mine. The spa, housed in a beautifully restored Italian villa filled with antiques and frescoes, offered a range of immersive sensory experiences—forest sounds, cinematic saunas, and even a rainfall pool simulating jungles and mountains. After a light salad lunch and some very dense Italian cake, she re-emerged to find her rather bedraggled husband in need of a spa himself.

From there, we set off on a scenic drive along the western side of Lake Garda. After a brief gelato stop in Gargnano, we took the SP38, one of the most scenic drives in Italy, winding up through forests and dramatic viewpoints with sweeping views over the lake. We eventually rejoined the SP115, which hugged the lakeside through tunnels and cliff-side passes, arriving in Limone sul Garda.

Dinner at Dal Bigarola was a relaxed affair—grilled chicken and salad for me, a mixed grill for Jill, followed by indulgent desserts. Our final leg was longer than expected, taking us up through Riva del Garda and inland to our new base: Camping al Lago, nestled beside the peaceful Lake Ledro. The facilities look excellent, and we’re looking forward to seeing the lake in daylight.Read more