Day 22: Lugano

Sunday in Lugano began bright and early - out the door by 7:30am on two wheels for a 30-mile gravel ride. The town was still quiet as I passed through, heading up into the hills on woodland tracks that quickly became steep and rough—more mountain bike than gravel at times. There were a few hairy moments, but I made it up to the point near where the Monte Lema cable car starts, after a solid 2,000-foot climb. I stopped at the little village of Maglieglia for a coffee and croissant before descending on smooth tarmac switchbacks, surrounded by trees and accompanied by cowbells, cuckoos, and the occasional hare darting across the road. A beautiful ride, back in one piece and back in Lugano by 11am.

After a quick shower, Gill and I headed out for a walk along the lake to Gandria. The trail led through a peaceful nature reserve, rich in unique geology—folded limestone shaped later by ancient glaciers, now hosting olive trees thanks to a rare microclimate. We stopped for a panini and a shandy by the water before catching the boat back to Lugano, where the lakeside cafes and shops were slowly coming to life (though thankfully, being Sunday, most were shut). We wandered through the flower-filled park, past the lido we’re thinking of visiting tomorrow, and made our way back to the apartment.

In the evening, we drove up the winding switchbacks to around 1,500 feet and the tiny village of Cureggia for dinner at Grotto Pierino—a rustic restaurant serving traditional Italian-Swiss fare. We sat outside under a pergola with sweeping views over the lake and city as the sun went down on another scorchio day. We shared a bowl of wonderful minestrone—no pasta, but full of chunky carrots, beans, onions and cabbage in a rich tomato broth, nearly as good as Gill’s. Then came the main: braised beef with polenta and stunning gravy, the sort you mop up with thick slices of bread. The owner was warm and attentive, even taking photos for us and other diners. A perfect end to a perfect Sunday.En savoir plus