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El Camino Portugues

januar - februar 2024
  • Luke Shealy
You can't get away from yourself by moving from one place to another.
-The Sun Also Rises Les mer
  • Luke Shealy

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  • Luke ShealyReisendeEl Camino Portugues

    Gifts Galore at the Wasterwater Facility

    9. januar 2024, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    The day started on a decent from Santarém which apparently first had a city there around the year 800 and was very important to the reconquista. The route led through a hole in an ally and then down a long and slippery set of cobblestones that could have been original to the city. Really felt like I was making a secret exit during a siege or something.

    A lot of the day’s route was walking next to fields and vineyards on a dirt path that had become quite muddy because of the rain so it was slow going. I did get slightly turned around at one point, but it wasn’t terrible hard to find the way back to the correct path with how well everything is marked.

    As a was approaching a small village, about 14 miles of only farmland) a man called out to me ‘Santiago?’ from the entryway to a very small building surrounding by large concrete basins in the ground. I walked over to him and said yes I was going to Santiago. He asked if I wanted water and waved me inside. I was pretty sure I could make it to the end of the day with the water I had, but still could’ve used a top off so I went around a railing and inside. We both tried our best to have an exchange, but it really was quite a challenging thing to day. I was offered both a Taxi and snack, the later of which I great fully obliged. He also showed me a spiral bound notebook he kept that had a lot of messages people had written him. I also made an entry (the last seemed to be from November). It seems like he offers snacks and water to quite a few pilgrims. I really only have a picture of the wastewater tank unfortunately to mark the moment. It was such a surprise and random act of kindness.    Les mer

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  • Luke ShealyReisendeEl Camino Portugues

    Etapa 4: Golegã

    9. januar 2024, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    This is a medium sized town that has a super charming Alburgue. I spoke to a Danish girl who’s been walking about 50km a day who ate the biggest one-person salad I’ve truly ever seen and then went to bet soon after.

    The only other person staying here is Fran shortened from Francisco. I had dinner that he and I both enjoyed and I think we may begin the day walking together    Les mer

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  • Luke ShealyReisendeEl Camino Portugues

    Abandoned Palace Place

    10. januar 2024, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Today I walked the whole day with Fran, we went through several farm fields where he helped me to practice my Spanish a bit, and it really needs a lot of work.

    We saw a church built around the time of the renaissance and tried to go inside but the doors were shut. We then continued walking and the path led us to a banded ancient town. It maybe looked like it had been completely abandoned for almost 50 years at the least and nature was still working hard to reclaim it all. This is where we had lunch and then explored around a little found a beautiful and completely abandoned palace!

    It was right on the River Tagus and at least Wikipedia says that the site dates to a Templar Castle from the 12th century, the. Current building is most from the 17th century. We couldn’t go into the building or grounds because it was quite secured and there was a small wall. I did climb the side of the wall a bit to snap a picture of the courtyard.

    Afterwards, we walked along mud logging roads for the rest of the way that led into a Eucalyptus forest and Fran stopped in the forest for a job interview call. Either to sell insurance or work in a food service of a hospital or maybe something else entirely.

    I completed the rest of the day by myself, maybe 2 hours. Toward the end, there was a huge hill to climb. At the very top there was a sign someone had painted that said ‘well done’ which a pretty winded me fully agreed with.    Les mer

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  • Luke ShealyReisendeEl Camino Portugues

    Etapa 5: Asseiceira

    10. januar 2024, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    The Alburgue had no caretaker here, but we called ahead and they gave us the door code and told us to leave 10 euros on the counter.

    I went to the store and got ingredients to make my microwave culinary masterpiece which was a pretty simple pasta soup, but I cooked the pasta and veggies all from scratch in the microwave.

    There were some beds already made with things on them when I arrived but no one else was here. Several hours later the three French retired men showed up with white wine to share! They all had a great sense of humor and we talked with them for about an hour before bed.    Les mer

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  • Luke ShealyReisendeEl Camino Portugues

    Etapa 6: Calvinis

    11. januar 2024, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I made it to the Alburgue in Calvinos after dark because I’d got a little to excited about the Tomar and ended up darting longer than planned. In Calvinos, I met a lady from Lisbon named Margarida who had had a double hip replacement about half a year ago and is doing the Camino in sections.

    I also discovered that I enjoy Sardines (A Portuguese favorite) after I made this Sardine Shrimp ramen soup.    Les mer

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  • Luke ShealyReisendeEl Camino Portugues

    Graves of the Visgoths

    12. januar 2024, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    I spent half of the day walking with Fran and half walking by myself. While walking with Fran we saw that the road split and there were two options. One option lead us towards ancient graves which we decided to check it.

    Really the graves were stones that had been hollowed out and were truly quite impressive as they were from around the 2nd century I think.

    Lots of beautiful sites along the way today! The route took me mast many olive groves and small vineyards.    Les mer

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  • Luke ShealyReisendeEl Camino Portugues

    Etapa 7: Alvaiázere

    12. januar 2024, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    In this town, I met another pilgrim from South Korea. His name is Lee and he brought wine and cheese and popcorn to share with everyone. He said he hadn’t seen any other pilgrims in 3 days so I think we was quite happy to have others around. We talked in the Alburgue quite late into the evening! Meeting people has been quite nice, but it’s been harder to keep up with this travel journal at night though. Lee doesn’t speak great English but really enjoys saying very humanist statements and seeing where that leads us like ‘I don’t think anyone is truly evil’ or ‘I think K-pop has unfair standards’. Margarida seems very interested in American politics but didn’t seem to want to ask me anything directly, so instead she asked me to describe what the American national identity is.

    I enjoyed some Bifanas for dinner which is essentially pork and bread. It’s very filling but quite simple, so I added some cheese to mine!    Les mer

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  • Luke ShealyReisendeEl Camino Portugues

    What is The Camino Without Rain?

    13. januar 2024, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    The title for this post came from Margarida who said this to Lee when he brought up that he was the planning to get to his final destination the next day before the afternoon showers.

    Turned out the afternoon showers were really morning showers and I got to test out my rain gear which held up quite strongly! It should be raining here off and on for the next 4 days or so. Though today at least, when then rain broke it was a gorgeous sunny day.

    I think my favorite place today was this small shrine I passed in the middle of the woods. There are lots of rocks stacked above it that I think people placed after saying a prayer. That’s what I did anyway. I think it’s always interesting that no matter where, people always try to leave there mark somewhere. So even when I was alone in the woods, I knew that others had stood in that exact spot with a similar intention as me.    Les mer

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  • Luke ShealyReisendeEl Camino Portugues

    Etapa 8: Rabacal

    13. januar 2024, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Tonight’s Alburgue has been the nicest so far! True lux living! They have a pool out back and amazing have heat in the bedrooms for the winter which is super nice to have!

    The owner of the Alburgue also owns a restaurant in the village and has a good deal for pilgrims. I had stingray for dinner. Very good but tons of bones which are supposedly edible but did not really felt that way. I dined and had good conversation with Lee and Margarida!Les mer

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