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My Camino

May - June 2024
An open-ended adventure by Sara Read more
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  • TravelerMy Camino
    1
    Day 11

    Day 10 walking!

    May 18 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    So we had nice meal in the hotel restaurant last night, very civilised set menu and then in bed/bunks by 9.30 -everyone is exhausted! We were in a room with 4 sets bunk beds but only had 5 of us in there so 3 top bunks empty, and so far Fiona has kindly taken the top bunk, well she is younger than me! But tonight we arrived little late and there were only top bunks left, so I will be experiencing trying to sleep on top bunk tonight!!
    So we walked about 25 Km today, leaving Villafranca with threatening clouds above as we tackled quite steep hill first thing, the viewing point was at 1,120m and was covered with dense pine forest. The path continued up and down with rather oppressive pines and no villages for 12 Km. After lunch, the way was at a lower level and the surrounding more gentle although forested it had glades with beautiful wild flowers and then we came across cows with young calves. We also had little drizzle on and off. We also walked past queue for convent Albergue in one village, well …. the rucksack were in the queue! The rest of the walk included another hill with cross on top until we arrived at our destination here at our quirky Albergue in Cardeñuela Riopico.    Read more

  • TravelerMy Camino
    1
    Day 12

    Day 11 walking!

    May 19 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    I survived sleeping on top bunk last night 😊 but couldn’t get comfy! It was also very cold, the radiators were on in the dorm and it was about 5 degrees this morning, think this area is quite high up. Also lady in dorm in wheelchair who broke her leg on 2nd day, she slipped on wet stones, her husband is carrying on and she’s getting taxi to next Albergue!
    We left quite early this morning to walk the 14 Km into Burgos, initially along quite country roads, then around small airport and along the side of the river and through parkland into town. We’re having rest day here and spending two nights in cheap hotel (hooray no bunk beds!) and regrouping to plan rest of trip. Also just had lovely hot bath, my legs are not too bad but my feet have started to complain by the end of the day! Apparently Burgos has most beautiful cathedral in Spain!    Read more

  • TravelerMy Camino
    Day 13

    Rest day!

    May 20 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    So it was wonderful to have half of yesterday and all of today as rest and recovery time - think we needed it!
    But we’ve been busy, both of us are walking in trail running shoes which are wearing out the tread, so we both bought inserts to extend life of current shoes plus new shoes, as current pair will not take us all the way to Santiago! Bit more shopping for odds and ends, so expensive morning!
    Then we started mammoth task of booking rest of our accommodation to Santiago …. we had hoped to walk and then stop and find somewhere to stay …. but so many are already full, plus it means you really need to rush to get there in time etc. booking in advance permits you to take your time and enjoy the way.
    But we did also make the time to visit the world heritage recognised cathedral in Burgos and it really is incredibly impressive! Burgos used to be the capital and seat of the kings of the region many years ago and this is clearly demonstrated in the outstanding splendour and richness of the cathedral, the stone carvings and the paintings and the very elaborate decorated ceilings were astonishing! I’m not sure the photos do it justice but I have included some any way. In fact Burgos is a very pleasant city with green spaces and interesting street art.    Read more

  • TravelerMy Camino
    Day 14

    Day 12 walking!

    May 21 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    We left the comfort of our hotel early-ish this morning and our rucksacks felt heavier from yesterday’s shopping! We had some lovely views of Burgos as we left, plus lots of street art en route. We walked along quiet country roads and into rolling countryside passing pretty villages, fields, wild flowers, nesting storks and birdsong. The way climbed relatively gently as we passed into the Maseta, and then down more steeply into Hornillos after about 22km. The Albergue seems nice enough and there’s a party here from Korea. I can currently smell the paella cooking!Read more

  • TravelerMy Camino
    Day 14

    Day 13 not walking!

    May 21 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Super paella last night!
    But my bruised big toe was really painful yesterday and throbbing overnight, so decided this morning to get it checked out. As we were staying in small village of Hornillos, had to get a taxi back to Burgos which took about 30 mins and us over 6 hours to walk yesterday!!
    My suspicion was confirmed when the doctor told me it was infected, so have got antibiotic cream and tablets etc, very efficient system at A&E and was prob in and out in just over an hour! Isn’t Google translate marvellous?!! Getting back to town was less efficient, but that was my fault, wish my Spanish was better!
    My friend Fiona carried on walking today and I’m meeting her at our accommodation later. I was told to not walk for 2-3 days, so will be taking the bus to our pre booked accommodation and see how it goes. The doctor told me to buy bigger shoes, I didn’t argue but I already bought larger than normal…. don’t think it’s the shoes but the number of Km we’re covering!
    The next bus to our next stop at Castrojeriz is not until 5, so after chilling in cafe, I have taken refuge in the public library to kill time, as I don’t want to walk about that much. So I’ve taken few more photos in Burgos of some things that caught my eye plus the enormous chicken paella from last night!    Read more

  • TravelerMy Camino
    Day 16

    Day 14 not walking

    May 23 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    So it was nice modern Albergue La Riconada last night in Castrojeriz, with lovely warm and welcoming hosts, although didn’t get there until 6.45pm! Lovely pilgrims dinner, salad and then roast chicken 1/4 and Spanish rice 😊 and nice company, met interesting Americans who also dislike Trump!
    Comfy modern bunks and I was on the bottom.
    I washed and dried washing in machines early this morning ready for 9am shared taxi with couple of others to our next stop at Poblacion de campos. We’re in private twin room of a hostel but seems more like family hotel, nice fluffy towels and sheets. Spent lazy day sorting out accommodation further along and various odds and ends with rucksack etc, and little siesta! When in Rome …..
    While Fiona walked here unencumbered by her rucksack which I had taken. So today only few photos of Albergue view from window, and nearby church this morning and couple from taxi on way, plus new walking shoes at request of Steph and Julia!    Read more

  • TravelerMy Camino
    Day 17

    Day 15 not walking!

    May 24 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    So had lovely seafood paella last night while chatting to California mum and son and Swiss lady from Zurich. It’s surprisingly cold at night here down to 4 or 5 degrees! So morning and evenings are chilly, even if it warms up in the middle of the day!
    I got a taxi this morning which I shared a with chap from Hong Kong, had very interesting chat with him on way to next stop. Again took Fiona’s rucksack with me while she walked the sane distance!
    I arrived early at the Albergue Esperitu Santo which you cannot book in advance, and joined short queue and was checked in by nun by 10.30am. It’s a converted convent run by nuns and has a very serene and tranquil atmosphere, best bit is no bunks and single gender dorms and facilities !! It’s the little things that matter!
    Had leisurely stroll in the welcome sunshine, around the pretty and historic town of Carrion de los Condes, nearly every town has the ancient remains of a pilgrim hospital…. so injuries en route are nothing new! I did succumb to buying warm light fleece top as didn’t bring enough warm clothes, don’t laugh girls!
    Just had very strange occurrence …. it’s quiet and lights out by 10pm ….. and the head nun just came round checking (at 9.45pm) and closing the window!! No idea why …. perhaps because we didn’t go to the 5pm service …..
    So antibiotics are doing grande job and my toe is improving 😊 but probably still needs bit more rest, so have booked taxi again for tomorrow morning. I’ve included some photos of the dorm, all the mattresses and pillows have plastic covering and they give you paper disposable sheet and pillow for them. Surprisingly there are large contingent of Koreans and Japanese walking the Camino and they do live to cook their own food if there is an Albergue kitchen they can use.    Read more

  • TravelerMy Camino
    Day 18

    Day 16 not walking!

    May 25 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    So I took a taxi by myself in the end, another chap was planning to go with me, he’s resting due to losing toe nail, but he was too unwell to travel. We’ve been refilling our water bottles from bought mineral water and just today several people have complained of upset tums, so we’ll be continuing our safer strategy!
    So I’ve checked into modern purpose built Albergue in Terradillos de los Templarios, obviously linked the Templar Knights. We have private twin room 😊
    One of the surprises to me, has been the mix of nationalities walking the Camino, prob approx 1/3 are from the East (Asia or the Orient), another 1/3 from America and last 1/3 from Europe, with scattering of antipodeans too! All seem willing to help others, although it’s very tricky when there is no common language and the culture is so different as we’ve seen with the Koreans. So there is good camaraderie and we do keep bumping into same people in different places or en route! One of the challenges in sharing a dorm is that a lot of people like to get up and start walking very early, and although they make an effort to be quiet, 3/4 of our dorm had left before 6am this morning!!!
    So my toe is improving every day and I did 5km test walk locally after I checked in, it feels ok but doesn’t look great, so I’m little unsure when to start walking again.    Read more

  • TravelerMy Camino
    1
    Day 19

    Day 17 not walking!

    May 26 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I decided that as the infection in my big toe is still tender, the infection must still be present and so frustratingly I didn’t walk today. I will give it another couple of days on antibiotics and if still not gone, see a doctor again.
    So I shared taxi with Spanish chap who has walked the Camino 8 times previously and never known it as cold as it is this year! The taxi driver also picked up two hitch hiking pilgrims who were suffering leg and back issues en route, couple of French ladies who spend fortnight walking stages of the Camino each year but started back in Puy in France.
    I’ve checked into lovely small family run Albergue in Calzadilla de los Hermanillos, we’re now just over halfway to Santiago!! Not long after I got here, a young Kiwi girl came in asking for a box, she had found a healthy stray very young kitten walking along the road, no mum anywhere. Others said to leave it, but she couldn’t and was planning to take it with her and take it to a refuge in Leon tomorrow, shut today as Sunday. So I helped her rig up carrying bag using old bum bag I wasn’t using, and she got rice and put it into old cloth bag I had (for my flip flops) to make microwaved heat pad so the kitten would settle in the bag, it was clearly cold and prob between 2-4 weeks old and so cute 🥰 she will keep me posted on her progress walking with it for 2 days! Or if difficult, take a taxi.
    We’re in small village that’s biggest claim to fame is the Roman road that went through it that it still used, plus small nature reserve with some little ponds full of very noisy frogs!! There is also an old clothes washing place and a storks nest with 3 young, but I could only get 2 in the photo! Plus some rather kitch tea cup covers served to us here!    Read more

  • TravelerMy Camino
    Day 20

    Day 18 not walking!

    May 27 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    You will be pleased to know that yesterdays kitten was successfully delivered last night to Leon university vet clinic and is safe and well there 😊
    So today I took the bus to Mansilla de las Mulas with couple of German ladies, the bus took the scenic route through lots of villages off the beaten track, which was interesting but somewhat bumpy ride! Very agricultural with mountains in the distance.
    So we’re checked into fairly modern Albergue and currently sitting in the sun in the garden enjoying the tranquility, although sparrows flying very close!
    This town has 12th century fortifications and the old city wall is still visible in places with houses built into it or alongside, but the town has a ‘down at heel’ feel about it and has obviously seen better days.    Read more

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