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  • Sara Shelbourn

My Camino

A 3687-day adventure by Sara Read more
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    Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Final instalment!

    June 11, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Thanks for all your lovely comments 🥰
    I thought I would just add the photos from our day trip to the coast, which was relaxing and so nice to be driven … rather than walking! Although I’m so generally tired I did nod off on the coach!
    We stopped first at a fishing village Muros en route, and then at an impressive waterfall into the sea, this is because the sea has ingressed known as rias, and there are many of them along this coastline. Then we went to the ‘end of the world’ or Finisterre cape where there is a lighthouse and the 0 Km way marker as it is believed that this is where St James was last seen alive, although all other way markers count down to Santiago Cathedral.
    The scenery is stunning and the sky was threatening, apparently there was a visible cold front coming as seen by the line in the sky (David’s input!). We then had lovely seafood paella in Finisterre village. And the coach came back stopping at Muxia, made famous by ‘The Way’ film ( Martin Sheen scattered his son’s ashes) and an impressive semi circular waterfall and very old bridge.
    Then David and I got a bus this morning from Santiago to Porto, and lost an hour as Portugal is on UK time! While Fiona flew back to the UK.
    We’ve had a relaxing afternoon exploring very hilly Porto and took a boat tour of the six bridges here on the river Douro, although I managed to nod off again, as I did on the bus this morning!! I have quite a sleep debt to catch up on!! My feet are happier now and I’m looking forward to seeing friends in Lisbon and also going home next week!!
    So thanks again everyone for your fabulous kind support, lots of love to you all 😘😘😘😘😘😘😘😘    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler
    1

    Day 32 walking into Santiago!

    June 10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    So we left our Albergue Espiritu Xacebeo early this morning for our final walk, the sky was blue and the sun was out but there was a chill in the air and windy at times!
    We initially walked through forest tracks and uphill to walk around the airport. It was a strange and elated feeling to be walking for the last day on the Camino. There were groups of youngster walking who were fairly vocal singing and enjoying themselves. In fact the way in was fairly green and did switch to country lanes, and then turned more urban for the last 7Km or so. There was lovely viewing point on the way in and you can just make out the twin towers of Santiago cathedral.
    It was strange to finally arrive here and we did have little trouble locating the front of the cathedral (?!) and the pilgrims office. Of course we located them and proudly obtained our Compostela! The square in front of the cathedral was full of celebrating pilgrims and quite a festive atmosphere 😊
    David arrived safely and we had lovely meal the three of us together. We have day trip tomorrow to the coast or end of the world Finistere, then David and I bus down to Porto Wednesday morning and then into Lisbon to meet old school friends on Friday for some proper R and R!
    Big thank you for all your likes, comments, support and following me for last month or so - truly appreciated 😘😘😘    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler
    1

    Day 31 walking!

    June 9, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    So penultimate day of walking 22 Km to our destination of village called A Rua.
    We set off under grey threatening clouds but didn’t rain but there was a chill wind in the air and it stayed mostly cloudy.
    The way started up hill to Arzúa and had breakfast there. There were some gentle ups and downs but not too taxing, and along country paths and roads at times, even over an empty motorway!
    The land seems more cultivated and busier as we get closer to Santiago. We only have about 22 Km to walk tomorrow but it’s around the airport and likely to be more urban and busier. I’m quite tired and bit weary now, so will be pleased to finish tomorrow and my feet will definitely be happier!!!
    We’re in a modern Albergue and it’s our last night in bunks 😊
    David is flying into Santiago tomorrow evening so I’m looking forward to seeing him and staying in a hotel too!    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Day 30 walking!

    June 8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    So we left Palas de Rei with grey threatening clouds and then it rained about an hour, but it was more of a drizzle and as we were under tree cover, it was not a major problem and only lasted hour or so. But it did make the air very humid. The way was very up and down today and in fact we covered six shallow river valleys mostly on forest paths but also on country roads too. They seem to farm Eucalyptus trees here and we passed rows and rows of these trees at differing stages of growth, some extremely tall.
    The way also took us through a town called Melide which is renowned for its octopus pulpo Gallega, so we stopped for lunch there with a Costa Rican chap we had been chatting to as we walked along, and it was delicious!
    A few photos including animals seen today plus a wren eating a grasshopper! It’s an agricultural region with lovely villages and old bridges and building.
    It was nearly 27 Km to our destination of Albergue Los Caminantes at village called Ribadiso de Baixo, and we have very welcome private twin room 😊 in quite modern place with our own outside (stable!) door, almost like a motel.
    Today I switched from sandals back to walking shoes. The walking sandals were fine on the flat and going uphill, but I think they were giving me blisters going downhill. The walking shoes have more support and were fine today, but it was a long way and my feet were tired by the time we got here, but now less than 50 Km to Santiago!! We should be there on Monday 😊    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Day 29 walking!

    June 7, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We left Portomarín and there was again a morning mist or low cloud and we followed the way gently uphill. Again the mist cleared after couple of hours and it was mainly cloudy and warm with the sun making an occasional appearance! We walked 27 Km through forest track sometimes, but the majority of the walking was either next to or on the road, asphalt is tough on the feet! The countryside was mainly agricultural and we went through number of hamlets as the path went up and down. We passed number of unusual structures on stilts used for storing grain and called Horreos.
    So as there are now more people walking, we also have more cafes and places to stop en route, which is good and we took advantage of this fact today!
    We’re in a small old fashioned type Albergue tonight and back to bunks! We’re in village called Palas de Rei in Albergue Casina di Marcello. The host is an Italian chap Marcello, who after walking the Camino, upped sticks and moved to Spain to open an Albergue 2 years ago in a former prison! And when he closes the Albergue in November, he goes and walks a Camino and he’s done 12 so far, lots of different ones. He proudly cooked nice communal Italian meal for us all.
    Blisters still painful but not much longer now!    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Day 28 walking!

    June 6, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    There was a very fine drizzle or mizzle and mist as we left Sarria this morning and started the climb up out of town. The way started on country lanes and then moved to forest tracks with plenty of shade. We did notice more large groups of people walking today including school or college age groups walking, probably starting in Sarria.
    The morning mist cleared after couple of hours and the drizzle stopped. It was fairly cloudy most of the day, but did warm up to about 24/25 degrees. The most exciting part of today was passing the 100km to Santiago marker!! We’re really on the home straight now!
    The way led through villages and hamlets, and saw cows en route and a chicken walking along the road plus horses and a dog who was happy to lay down in the middle of the quiet road! The way moved back onto country lanes as we then walked down into our destination Portomarin after about 23.5 Km. This village/town was flooded to build a dam and create a lake/reservoir and the church and a number of other older buildings were taken apart, numbered and rebuilt up the hill and now sit in a more modern setting, quite an endeavour!
    We're in fairly modern Albergue, best bit no bunks and sheets and towels included, in a room for 3. Also had very nice Galician octopus on bed of boiled potatoes, so decided to include photo!
    Seem to have grown more blisters today, not sure why!    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Day 27 walking!

    June 5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    So today’s walk was shorter at just 18km and very pleasant. We left our Albergue in the cool of the early morning with a heavy dew on the grass and passing cows happily grazing, another photo for you Colette, and there is a calf just visible laying down in the long grass!
    The way climbed to a peak of 910m from 680m at Triacastela and was mixture of shady and dappled, and disappointingly, there was not much view from the top as trees were everywhere blocking the view. Then we started the both steep and meandering descent through few villages and hamlets, dodging the cow pats and generally appreciating the rural ideal. The theoretical simple life of a farmer is appealing, but I imagine the reality is somewhat different and harder!
    Near the bottom of the descent was a Domitivo, a pop up food and drink place where pilgrims can help themselves and leave a donation for the local running it. It was also a yoga place offering meditation and inner journey courses …. but hippy like … plus eco or ‘natural’ toilets - first for everything!!!
    Fiona has a bad back and wanted to power on up the hill fast so we ended up walking separately today, which is fine, in fact it’s peacefully tranquil walking by yourself in such glorious setting. The way undulated through forest tracks sometimes a little tricky to navigate and mostly in the shade, except for last few Km which was by the road. Our destination wasSarria, a relatively large town just before the last 100 Km to Santiago. A lot of pilgrims join the Camino here as you need to complete the last 100 Km to achieve your Compestela.
    We’re staying in nice Albergue in a private twin room with bathroom - heaven!    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler
    1

    Day 26 walking!

    June 4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    We left our Albergue this morning to finish the last few Km to the top of the mountain, and passed from Castilla y León into Galicia. We reached the top in the cool of the morning, and were greeted by local playing the bagpipes which was unexpected but rather nice. At the top we had stunning views of mountains in all directions. We were above the morning mist (or low cloud?) and so the mountain tops looked like they were floating on the mist, not sure the photos do it justice! The village at the top O’Cebreiro, had old cobbled streets and building including thatched roofs and had artisan shops. Last night we were at 1,150m altitude and the top is 1,330m. The way then took us through a village and to another peak (San Roque) at 1,270m, again just stunning panoramic views! The way meandered and took us to yet another peak Alto do Poie at 1,335m which was quite an arduous climb! But what goes up must come down and we started the slow descent down to Triacastela at 675m. The path took us through farming villages and past munching or dozing cows with cow bells, and lots of alpine meadows and wild flowers including bluebells, obviously flowering later due to the altitude, and giant slugs! The way also took us past an 800 year old chestnut tree with lots twists and turns, very gnarled.
    So last night we were in bunks and again tonight in Albergue Horta de Able. It was only (?!) 23 Km today but the inclines made it hard work!    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Day 25 walking!

    June 3, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Last nights Albergue in Villafranca is only 2 years old as previous building was destroyed in a fire, the owner was telling me this morning, very sad and traumatic to lose your family home in such a manner. Being modern, it’s a tranquil oasis with lawn and water feature in front and with no bunk beds - hooray!! Ordinary single beds with sheets 😊 (as opposed to sleeping bag!) in 10 bed dorm, photo added.
    As we’re in the mountains, it was little cool as we left and walked out of town but soon warmed up. The way followed the river, Rio Valcarce, flowing along the valley floor close to the main road, but as most traffic now uses the new motorway, the main road is quiet. I chose the more direct flatter route but Fiona opted for the green mountain route for part of the way, she’s gluten for punishment! So we ended up walking separately today as we didn’t quite coordinate meeting up. There are always people to walk with if you want to and I chatted to father and son walking together from Australia (Melbourne) originally from India, for an hour or so this morning, then a Spanish couple from Barcelona, all lovely interesting people.
    Walking through the valley and passing through various villages, there are forested mountains in every direction, blue sky, gurgling river and nature. I saw couple of French ladies picking wild alpine strawberries at the edge of the road this morning, and yesterday a chap was helping himself to cherries from trees lining the road as he walked!
    The path gently wound uphill slightly and there was a great view of the new mountain motorway, quite a feat of engineering!
    The last third of the walk started to go uphill much more steeply, past alpine meadows and the sound of cow bells in high pastures. As the sun was high, it was quite a slog to get to our destination of Albergue La Escuela in Laguna de Castille after 28km. And then our backpacks weren’t here! the van had broken down, they arrived couple of hours later. We’re very rural here, and the Albergue is the local village bar/restaurant and we were eating when we heard a dozen cows with bells, being herded up the road, they seemed very compliant cows!
    My toe is faring very well but unfortunately I’ve developed a blister on ball of left foot but it’s occupational hazard and won’t last long with Compeed etc.    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Day 24 walking!

    June 2, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We left Molinaseca with a chill wind in the air but it soon warmed up. We initially walked the 6km along quiet roads into historic Ponferrada which is major city with cathedral and castle fortifications. We managed to avoid most of the new urban parts of town. We did make a pit stop on way in and for the first time I noticed rugby posts, so I took a photo of them for you David!
    The old part of town had lovely cobbled streets and open plaza’s, and lots of interesting features, I love their outdoor exercise equipment! We were so busy chatting, we managed to lose the way markers and had to search them out!
    It wasn’t too hard to find the Camino or the ‘way of St James’ again, especially when helpful locals point it out to you!
    The way was mainly gentle gradients today and we seemed to be walking both parallel and towards mountains so fabulous panoramic views! Plus we’re passing lots of vineyards, but none open as it’s a Sunday. We passed through some lovely quaint villages, and after about 25 Km I decided to take the bus for the last 5Km, I had previously checked out the bus times at the local tourist office!
    We’re staying at lovely modern Albergue Viña Femita in Villafranca del Bierzo, which also has fortifications, haven’t had time or energy to explore it! And my toe seems ok with the walking today 😊    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Day 23 not walking!

    June 1, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Decided to take the taxi with Linda first thing, stunning panorama as the taxi climbed to the Iron Cross at 1,505m. We got out at the top and joined short queue to take our turn at the Iron Cross. The tradition is that you lay a stone at the base of the cross to either leave a burden there or to remember a loved one. A very kind friend gave me a small stone from Dorset beach but I unfortunately managed not to pack it - sorry Clare! So I laid a virtual stone for my dad, Bettie and Kitty, and Alexis, uncle John, uncle Tom, aunty Mini and Nanny - no longer in this world but for ever in our hearts ♥️
    The area around the Iron Cross was atmospheric and felt on top of the world, and included a large sun dial and small chapel. Some of the Korean party that we keep bumping into, were also there, and an older Korean gentleman starting spontaneously singing Ave María, which was unexpected but lovely and he received applause in appreciation.
    The downward taxi ride was again stunning scenery as we went over the mountain and into the next valley but unfortunately there was no where to stop and take photos!
    I arrived at our destination Albergue Senor Oso in Molinaseca too early to check in and explored this historic medieval place, with narrow streets and overhanging bits. There is lovely pilgrim bridge which is based on a Roman bridge and we’re in small Albergue in bunks! The host Jose is very nice and runs the bakers next door. I was asking him about perhaps seeing a doctor and explained my big toe issue, and he suggested I see the local pharmacist. He also kindly prepared a bowl of cold salt water for me. The pharmacist was very helpful and felt sure that 10 days of antibiotics had got rid of the infection but I just need to protect the toe, continue ibuprofen to reduce inflammation, raise it and ideally ice it. So I shall be walking tomorrow 😊
    Fiona completed today’s walk and did say the downhill part was not fun at all, but obviously the views were fantastic at the top!    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Day 22 walking!

    May 31, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    We ate our dinner last night in the Hostal and combined tables to eat with the other Peregrinos there, another Brit, a French lady who had cycled from Dijon originally towing her dog in a trailer but bad weather forced her to ask a friend to look after the dog, a French chap and a man from Taiwan who wanted to be completely disassociated with any groups of Koreans!!!
    We had some strange conversations and my French has come in very handy!
    We set off to another day of glorious blue sky as we headed out on the way, although we could see heavy ominous grey clouds in the distance over the looming mountains!
    We followed a road initially into Astorga, sort of market town size place with nice cathedral and castle type place by Gaudi. As we left Astorga, we’re passing into the mountains of Leon which will then lead us into Galicia. The way turned into a dirt track surrounded by mixture of farmland, scrub and trees but nearly always wild flowers at the edge and happy bird song including the enchanting cuckoo! It was a hot day, not as hot as yesterday and we had cool mountain breeze. We climbed gently and passed through quite a few villages and took every opportunity to stop and have a cold drink and rest for a bit. We climbed gently to just over 1,100m to our destination Albergue La Senda at Rabanal del Camino after about 24 Km. Nice enough Albergue but back to bunks! Lovely old village with cobbled streets and old buildings.
    I’m getting on ok with the walking sandals and socks, but the track is very dusty and the dust is clearly visible on my blue socks when I take the sandals off!! My toe felt fine walking today, but possibly it was little too far and doesn’t look good tonight. Tomorrow is the climb to the highest point of the Camino and the iron cross but I may share a taxi with an American lady who has bad knee (and can hardly walk) instead of walking up and down. I think going up would be ok for me, but the hardest bit is the steep downward path.    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler
    111

    Day 21 walking!

    May 30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We started the walk in relatively nice temperature and were welcomed by the sound of a cuckoo as we started down a quiet country road. There were ditches on either side with water and lots croaking frogs! They seem to have an irrigation system rigged up to water the fields, perhaps from the snow-topped mountains that we’re walking towards! We passed by agricultural land and a farmer ploughing his field with a stork taking advantage of the overturned soil behind the tractor!
    We stopped for refreshments in Villavante and either there, or en route encountered many of the other Peregrinos from our Albergue!
    We also sort lots of nesting storks en route and can’t help by photograph them!
    We walked into historic Hospital de Orbigo across very old long bridge and under lots of unusual flags. It transpires that the town is hosting a jousting tournament this weekend and the flags all had heraldic symbols and we walked past the field for the event. We stopped here for lunch and it was starting to get very hot, and as we had walked about 17km, I elected to get the bus to our next destination while Fiona continued to walk. Think it got up to about 27 degrees …. bit too hot for walking comfortably…. but my toe seems ok so far 🤞
    Tonight we’re in private room (hooray!) in Hostal Juli in San Justo de La vega, about 3.5 Km before Astorga, after which we head into a mountainous area. We left the Meseta behind several days ago and so far the way has just been undulating, but it will get steeper again very soon!    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Day 20 walking!

    May 29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    So having bought walking sandals in León, today I started walking again - hooray!!
    As the first 8.5Km was walking out of urban Leon, we opted to get the bus out to La Virgen del Camino, and started walking from there, it was nice to see urban Leon disappearing behind as we went forward into the countryside side again.
    There have been various stages of the Camino where it rather boringly follows the road and there are alternative green routes which are more interesting and we took one of those. It was so nice to be walking again and seeing the wild flowers including wild lavender, and the birds, and hearing a cuckoo again today! There were mountains to the right/north of us with what looked like snow on top ?!
    We passed through couple of villages and after 14km arrived at our Albergue San Antonio Padua in Villar de Mazarife and have lovely cool private room and bathroom - bliss!
    It’s a village with a shop and a few Albergues and we sat and eat an ice cream watching the world go by! Because this village is slightly off the normal Camino route, it is quieter and we had lovely communal meal prepared by the friendly hosting family. I think the Camino must bring welcome revenue to some very quiet villages.
    It was good to do a shorter walk today and I took it fairly slowly in my new walking sandals - must confess, never imagined wearing socks and sandals before - not the greatest look!!!    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Day 19 rest day!

    May 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    As today the way was along side the main road and not very inspiring, Fiona joined me in getting the bus to Leon as rest day and we’ve played tourist all day. Plus as Leon is large place, I’ve bought some walking sandals and will wear them with socks and walk half the way to next stage tomorrow🤞Wearing them with socks is recommended and the sandals don’t touch the nail bed of my big toe, I’ve tried them this afternoon and we’ll have to see how it goes tomorrow!
    So we visited the 13th century Leon cathedral which has magnificent stain glass windows and fantastic gothic masonry and underwent massive maintenance and structural repairs in the 18th century - all very impressive!
    We also did train trip round the city which was fun and enjoyed the sunny weather and eating outside. Leon is lovely vibrant and green city, quite buzzy atmosphere, and we bumped into others pilgrims we’ve met before, which is nice.
    We’re in a hostel right in the centre of town, and very noisy from the outdoor cafes, ear plugs tonight!!
    We’re in bunk beds again and sharing small 4 bed room with 2 New Zealand ladies, and on the top bunk - no choice but to just get on with it! Buenos noches!    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Day 18 not walking!

    May 27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    You will be pleased to know that yesterdays kitten was successfully delivered last night to Leon university vet clinic and is safe and well there 😊
    So today I took the bus to Mansilla de las Mulas with couple of German ladies, the bus took the scenic route through lots of villages off the beaten track, which was interesting but somewhat bumpy ride! Very agricultural with mountains in the distance.
    So we’re checked into fairly modern Albergue and currently sitting in the sun in the garden enjoying the tranquility, although sparrows flying very close!
    This town has 12th century fortifications and the old city wall is still visible in places with houses built into it or alongside, but the town has a ‘down at heel’ feel about it and has obviously seen better days.    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler
    1

    Day 17 not walking!

    May 26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I decided that as the infection in my big toe is still tender, the infection must still be present and so frustratingly I didn’t walk today. I will give it another couple of days on antibiotics and if still not gone, see a doctor again.
    So I shared taxi with Spanish chap who has walked the Camino 8 times previously and never known it as cold as it is this year! The taxi driver also picked up two hitch hiking pilgrims who were suffering leg and back issues en route, couple of French ladies who spend fortnight walking stages of the Camino each year but started back in Puy in France.
    I’ve checked into lovely small family run Albergue in Calzadilla de los Hermanillos, we’re now just over halfway to Santiago!! Not long after I got here, a young Kiwi girl came in asking for a box, she had found a healthy stray very young kitten walking along the road, no mum anywhere. Others said to leave it, but she couldn’t and was planning to take it with her and take it to a refuge in Leon tomorrow, shut today as Sunday. So I helped her rig up carrying bag using old bum bag I wasn’t using, and she got rice and put it into old cloth bag I had (for my flip flops) to make microwaved heat pad so the kitten would settle in the bag, it was clearly cold and prob between 2-4 weeks old and so cute 🥰 she will keep me posted on her progress walking with it for 2 days! Or if difficult, take a taxi.
    We’re in small village that’s biggest claim to fame is the Roman road that went through it that it still used, plus small nature reserve with some little ponds full of very noisy frogs!! There is also an old clothes washing place and a storks nest with 3 young, but I could only get 2 in the photo! Plus some rather kitch tea cup covers served to us here!    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Day 16 not walking!

    May 25, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    So I took a taxi by myself in the end, another chap was planning to go with me, he’s resting due to losing toe nail, but he was too unwell to travel. We’ve been refilling our water bottles from bought mineral water and just today several people have complained of upset tums, so we’ll be continuing our safer strategy!
    So I’ve checked into modern purpose built Albergue in Terradillos de los Templarios, obviously linked the Templar Knights. We have private twin room 😊
    One of the surprises to me, has been the mix of nationalities walking the Camino, prob approx 1/3 are from the East (Asia or the Orient), another 1/3 from America and last 1/3 from Europe, with scattering of antipodeans too! All seem willing to help others, although it’s very tricky when there is no common language and the culture is so different as we’ve seen with the Koreans. So there is good camaraderie and we do keep bumping into same people in different places or en route! One of the challenges in sharing a dorm is that a lot of people like to get up and start walking very early, and although they make an effort to be quiet, 3/4 of our dorm had left before 6am this morning!!!
    So my toe is improving every day and I did 5km test walk locally after I checked in, it feels ok but doesn’t look great, so I’m little unsure when to start walking again.    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Day 15 not walking!

    May 24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    So had lovely seafood paella last night while chatting to California mum and son and Swiss lady from Zurich. It’s surprisingly cold at night here down to 4 or 5 degrees! So morning and evenings are chilly, even if it warms up in the middle of the day!
    I got a taxi this morning which I shared a with chap from Hong Kong, had very interesting chat with him on way to next stop. Again took Fiona’s rucksack with me while she walked the sane distance!
    I arrived early at the Albergue Esperitu Santo which you cannot book in advance, and joined short queue and was checked in by nun by 10.30am. It’s a converted convent run by nuns and has a very serene and tranquil atmosphere, best bit is no bunks and single gender dorms and facilities !! It’s the little things that matter!
    Had leisurely stroll in the welcome sunshine, around the pretty and historic town of Carrion de los Condes, nearly every town has the ancient remains of a pilgrim hospital…. so injuries en route are nothing new! I did succumb to buying warm light fleece top as didn’t bring enough warm clothes, don’t laugh girls!
    Just had very strange occurrence …. it’s quiet and lights out by 10pm ….. and the head nun just came round checking (at 9.45pm) and closing the window!! No idea why …. perhaps because we didn’t go to the 5pm service …..
    So antibiotics are doing grande job and my toe is improving 😊 but probably still needs bit more rest, so have booked taxi again for tomorrow morning. I’ve included some photos of the dorm, all the mattresses and pillows have plastic covering and they give you paper disposable sheet and pillow for them. Surprisingly there are large contingent of Koreans and Japanese walking the Camino and they do live to cook their own food if there is an Albergue kitchen they can use.    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Day 14 not walking

    May 23, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    So it was nice modern Albergue La Riconada last night in Castrojeriz, with lovely warm and welcoming hosts, although didn’t get there until 6.45pm! Lovely pilgrims dinner, salad and then roast chicken 1/4 and Spanish rice 😊 and nice company, met interesting Americans who also dislike Trump!
    Comfy modern bunks and I was on the bottom.
    I washed and dried washing in machines early this morning ready for 9am shared taxi with couple of others to our next stop at Poblacion de campos. We’re in private twin room of a hostel but seems more like family hotel, nice fluffy towels and sheets. Spent lazy day sorting out accommodation further along and various odds and ends with rucksack etc, and little siesta! When in Rome …..
    While Fiona walked here unencumbered by her rucksack which I had taken. So today only few photos of Albergue view from window, and nearby church this morning and couple from taxi on way, plus new walking shoes at request of Steph and Julia!    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Day 13 not walking!

    May 21, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Super paella last night!
    But my bruised big toe was really painful yesterday and throbbing overnight, so decided this morning to get it checked out. As we were staying in small village of Hornillos, had to get a taxi back to Burgos which took about 30 mins and us over 6 hours to walk yesterday!!
    My suspicion was confirmed when the doctor told me it was infected, so have got antibiotic cream and tablets etc, very efficient system at A&E and was prob in and out in just over an hour! Isn’t Google translate marvellous?!! Getting back to town was less efficient, but that was my fault, wish my Spanish was better!
    My friend Fiona carried on walking today and I’m meeting her at our accommodation later. I was told to not walk for 2-3 days, so will be taking the bus to our pre booked accommodation and see how it goes. The doctor told me to buy bigger shoes, I didn’t argue but I already bought larger than normal…. don’t think it’s the shoes but the number of Km we’re covering!
    The next bus to our next stop at Castrojeriz is not until 5, so after chilling in cafe, I have taken refuge in the public library to kill time, as I don’t want to walk about that much. So I’ve taken few more photos in Burgos of some things that caught my eye plus the enormous chicken paella from last night!    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Day 12 walking!

    May 21, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    We left the comfort of our hotel early-ish this morning and our rucksacks felt heavier from yesterday’s shopping! We had some lovely views of Burgos as we left, plus lots of street art en route. We walked along quiet country roads and into rolling countryside passing pretty villages, fields, wild flowers, nesting storks and birdsong. The way climbed relatively gently as we passed into the Maseta, and then down more steeply into Hornillos after about 22km. The Albergue seems nice enough and there’s a party here from Korea. I can currently smell the paella cooking!Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Rest day!

    May 20, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    So it was wonderful to have half of yesterday and all of today as rest and recovery time - think we needed it!
    But we’ve been busy, both of us are walking in trail running shoes which are wearing out the tread, so we both bought inserts to extend life of current shoes plus new shoes, as current pair will not take us all the way to Santiago! Bit more shopping for odds and ends, so expensive morning!
    Then we started mammoth task of booking rest of our accommodation to Santiago …. we had hoped to walk and then stop and find somewhere to stay …. but so many are already full, plus it means you really need to rush to get there in time etc. booking in advance permits you to take your time and enjoy the way.
    But we did also make the time to visit the world heritage recognised cathedral in Burgos and it really is incredibly impressive! Burgos used to be the capital and seat of the kings of the region many years ago and this is clearly demonstrated in the outstanding splendour and richness of the cathedral, the stone carvings and the paintings and the very elaborate decorated ceilings were astonishing! I’m not sure the photos do it justice but I have included some any way. In fact Burgos is a very pleasant city with green spaces and interesting street art.    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler
    1

    Day 11 walking!

    May 19, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    I survived sleeping on top bunk last night 😊 but couldn’t get comfy! It was also very cold, the radiators were on in the dorm and it was about 5 degrees this morning, think this area is quite high up. Also lady in dorm in wheelchair who broke her leg on 2nd day, she slipped on wet stones, her husband is carrying on and she’s getting taxi to next Albergue!
    We left quite early this morning to walk the 14 Km into Burgos, initially along quite country roads, then around small airport and along the side of the river and through parkland into town. We’re having rest day here and spending two nights in cheap hotel (hooray no bunk beds!) and regrouping to plan rest of trip. Also just had lovely hot bath, my legs are not too bad but my feet have started to complain by the end of the day! Apparently Burgos has most beautiful cathedral in Spain!    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler
    1

    Day 10 walking!

    May 18, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    So we had nice meal in the hotel restaurant last night, very civilised set menu and then in bed/bunks by 9.30 -everyone is exhausted! We were in a room with 4 sets bunk beds but only had 5 of us in there so 3 top bunks empty, and so far Fiona has kindly taken the top bunk, well she is younger than me! But tonight we arrived little late and there were only top bunks left, so I will be experiencing trying to sleep on top bunk tonight!!
    So we walked about 25 Km today, leaving Villafranca with threatening clouds above as we tackled quite steep hill first thing, the viewing point was at 1,120m and was covered with dense pine forest. The path continued up and down with rather oppressive pines and no villages for 12 Km. After lunch, the way was at a lower level and the surrounding more gentle although forested it had glades with beautiful wild flowers and then we came across cows with young calves. We also had little drizzle on and off. We also walked past queue for convent Albergue in one village, well …. the rucksack were in the queue! The rest of the walk included another hill with cross on top until we arrived at our destination here at our quirky Albergue in Cardeñuela Riopico.    Read more

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