Sep – Nov 2023

Camino 2023

A 45-day adventure by Shawn Read more

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Trip start
September 18, 2023
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Day 2
Tuesday, September 19, 2023 at 11:09 PM
🌙 64 °F
Altitude: 2,008 ft
Spain Madrid–Barajas Airport 40.491292, -3.59131640°29’29” N 3°35’29” W
Uber in Madrid
September 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 64 °F
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Day 3
Wednesday, September 20, 2023 at 12:29 AM
🌙 64 °F
Altitude: 33 ft
France Bahía de Chingudi 43.3619, -1.775443°21’43” N 1°46’31” W
Uber in Madrid at 11:48
September 20, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌙 64 °F
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Day 3
Wednesday, September 20, 2023 at 11:43 AM
☀️ 64 °F
Altitude: 2,047 ft
Spain Madrid–Barajas Airport 40.496153, -3.5908340°29’46” N 3°35’27” W
Leaving on a jet plane
September 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F
Flying to Pamplona. Then taxi to St. Jean
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Day 3
Wednesday, September 20, 2023 at 7:44 PM
☀️ 73 °F
Altitude: 604 ft
France Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port 43.162345, -1.23839543°9’44” N 1°14’18” W
Arrival in St Jean Pied de Port
September 20, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F
We got our credential, our scallop shell and our trekking poles...off we go in the morning 🌄
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Day 5–7
September 22, 2023 at 9:31 AM - September 24, 2023
2 nights
⛅ 48 °F
Altitude: 3,501 ft
France Bois d’Orisson 43.086804, -1.25018643°5’12” N 1°15’1” W
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Day 2 Borda to Roncesvalles
Sep 22–24, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F
We hiked over the top of the Pyrenees to Albergue Roncesvalles.
Traveler Great pictures. Excited to be sharing your journey.
9/24/23Reply
TravelerMiss the amazing views! Looks like you guys are doing great. Buen Camino!!
9/29/23Reply
TravelerThe weather was quite a bit cooler this time, but the views were still magnificent!
9/29/23Reply
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Day 6
Saturday, September 23, 2023 at 4:15 PM
☀️ 68 °F
Altitude: 1,572 ft
Spain Pamplona 42.812264, -1.64250342°48’44” N 1°38’33” W
Day 3 Roncevalles to Zubiri
September 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F
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Day 7
Sunday, September 24, 2023
☀️ 75 °F
Altitude: 1,542 ft
Spain Monumento a los Fueros 42.816219, -1.6438842°48’58” N 1°38’38” W
Day 4 Zubiri to Pamplona
September 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F
No rain at all today!!!
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Day 8
Monday, September 25, 2023 at 6:45 PM
☀️ 79 °F
Altitude: 1,483 ft
Spain Plaza del Castillo 42.817586, -1.64331742°49’3” N 1°38’36” W
Day 5 Pamplona
September 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F
We decided to stay over and explore the city of Pamplona. This is where they do the "Running of the Bulls". We went to the Plaza de Toros, Cathedral of Santa Maria, Paseo Ernest Hemingway, Plaza del Castillo, as well as doing some shopping for supplies and a Pamplona tee shirt.Read more
TravelerLooking at your photos, realizing how much more there is to see! Maybe another Camino?
9/29/23Reply
TravelerSo very True
9/29/23Reply
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Day 9
Tuesday, September 26, 2023 at 7:45 AM
🌙 52 °F
Altitude: 1,499 ft
Spain La Ciudadela 42.811054, -1.64484342°48’40” N 1°38’41” W
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Day 6 Pamplona to Cirauqui
September 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 52 °F
The weather was beautiful! We had a bit longer day than expected...nearly 21 miles. We all did great, and really appreciated that we had a fresh start. Juan at Albergue Cirauqui Casa Maralotx was fantastic. Even though we were too late for the regular dinner, he made us a lovely apple walnut salad, chickpea stew, and vanilla cinnamon custard.Read more
Traveler Looking beautiful in beautiful country
9/27/23Reply
Traveler Great pics Shawn ✨
9/27/23Reply
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Day 10
Wednesday, September 27, 2023 at 9:41 PM
☁️ 68 °F
Altitude: 1,903 ft
Spain Azqueta 42.635146, -2.08704342°38’7” N 2°5’13” W
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Day 7 Corauqui to Azqueta
September 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F
Another beautiful day. Decided to head out and grab breakfast at the next town. Came across this lovely table of fruits and bread for donation. There are many churches along the route. We are now in the Rioja region where the wine grapes are grown. The pilgrim wine fountain had run out of wine by the time we arrived. (Not a big loss because rumor has it that it is not too good...😮).Read more
Traveler Very nice
9/30/23Reply
Traveler My kind of breakfast
9/30/23Reply
TravelerYes it was and the timing was perfect.
9/30/23Reply
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Day 11
Thursday, September 28, 2023 at 8:17 AM
⛅ 59 °F
Altitude: 1,903 ft
Spain Azqueta 42.635146, -2.08704342°38’7” N 2°5’13” W
Day 8 Azqueta to Sansol
September 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F
We are so grateful for the wonderful weather! We were delighted to find a double decker bus that a German couple had converted to a cafe on the bottom and living quarters up top. They are making their way to Santiago as part of a documentary. Kim and I had a milkshake for breakfast. Julie a cappuccino with scallop shell design froth.We also were surprised to find an accordion player on a bench near a vinyard. The midpoint food truck was missing so we ate lunch in Los Arcos. We took a nice break there. Then on to Sansol.Read more
TravelerAmazing. So blessed to be sharing your adventure.
9/30/23Reply
TravelerI am happy that you appreciate it! Many people said they would follow, but only you and a few others actually are!!! Thank you for your support!😍
9/30/23Reply
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Day 12
Friday, September 29, 2023 at 8:19 AM
☀️ 57 °F
Altitude: 1,650 ft
Spain Sansol 42.554016, -2.26740642°33’14” N 2°16’3” W
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Day 9 Sansol to Longrono
September 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F
We were blessed with another outstanding day of sunshine. We missed our breakfast stop but not too far up the road came to a cute little "snack shack" along the trail. There was coffee, fresh squeezed juice, fresh fruit, and pastries. We also had a missed turn that required a bit of backtracking and off trail trekking... 😆 Got to Longrono early enough to do a little exploring. Incredibly beautiful central church. It is Friday night, so the streets, shops, bars and restaurants were bustling. Great people watching from our balcony over Calle Portales.Read more
Traveler Looking good. Always up for the adventure.
9/30/23Reply
Traveler Hmm, what’s the story here?
10/8/23Reply
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Day 13–15
September 30, 2023 at 11:52 PM - October 2, 2023
2 nights
🌙 66 °F
Altitude: 1,696 ft
Spain Iglesia Parroquial de la Asuncion de Maria 42.42949, -2.5616642°25’46” N 2°33’42” W
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Day 10 Longrono to Navarrete
Sep 30–Oct 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 66 °F
We got a later start, so we decided not to go as far. We walked through more vineyards and saw grapes being transported to wineries. There was also a nice shady walk along a reservoir where we came upon the double decker bus cafe again.
We passed the archeological remains of a pilgrims hospital.
We had a 360 view from the park in Naverrete. The city was alive with celebration....a special mass, church bells, music and fireworks well past midnight!Read more
Traveler Nice bull
10/1/23Reply
Traveler You crushing any with your bare feet?
10/1/23Reply
TravelerVery happy to report that my feet are fairing much better this year!!!
10/2/23Reply
TravelerNo, but I sampled a few that bounced out of the cart...
10/4/23Reply
Traveler Happy feet 😋
10/2/23Reply
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Day 15–18
October 2, 2023 at 7:17 AM - October 5, 2023
3 nights
🌙 57 °F
Altitude: 1,834 ft
Spain Azofra 42.423479, -2.80092542°25’25” N 2°48’3” W
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Day 11 Navarrete to Zofra
Oct 2–5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 57 °F
We wanted to get on the Camino a little earlier today. But the couple that ran the Albergue were late opening so we couldn't get our laundry to finish packing up. They probably didn't get enough sleep either because the fireworks, music and festival activities went on until 2:00 am. We walked about 3.5 miles to Ventosa and stopped for breakfast. We enjoyed our continued journey through rolling hills and vineyards in the Rioja region.Read more
Traveler Looking good 👍
10/1/23Reply
TravelerWe do enjoy our breaks!
10/2/23Reply
Traveler Great shot. Can see forever
10/1/23Reply
TravelerYes it really does seem like that...
10/2/23Reply
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Day 15
Monday, October 2, 2023 at 8:16 AM
☀️ 55 °F
Altitude: 1,804 ft
Spain Azofra 42.422692, -2.80739742°25’22” N 2°48’27” W
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Day 12 Azofra to Granon
October 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F
We got a good start this morning. Found a nice little park to "lounge" in just before Ciruena. Then we headed to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. We had a delicious lunch...we shared some Calamari, Kim had a lovely goat cheese salad. Julie had salad with tuna, and I had a red pepper rellano stuffed shrimp and monkfish. We visited the church of St. John the Baptist and learned about the legend of the miraculous chicken and why the church is affectionately called the " Chicken church" and live chickens are kept there. We stayed in Granon at Albergue Carresquedo.Read more
Traveler Wow
10/2/23Reply
Traveler Ahhhhh rest
10/2/23Reply
Traveler Beautiful
10/2/23Reply
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Day 16
Tuesday, October 3, 2023 at 8:44 AM
☁️ 57 °F
Altitude: 2,402 ft
Spain Grañón 42.449217, -3.03011442°26’57” N 3°1’48” W
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Day 13 Granon to Tosantos
October 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F
Today was much cooler, with a cloud cover most of the day. We have left the Rioja region and crossed into Castilla and Leon. This area has acres and acres of sunflowers. We missed them in bloom though. We walked through numerous small villages and had lunch in Belorado. We had delicious salads with prawns, salmon and avocado. We met up with "the last patrol", our veteran guardian angels again. We also had a nice family style/home cooked meal at our Albergue Los Arancones and met up with our French friend Jackie. The albergue was Les than half full.Read more
Traveler Looking good ladies
10/4/23Reply
Traveler Is that the way they dry them or is it because they didn't get rain? 🤔
10/4/23Reply
TravelerI think that must be the way they dry them....
10/4/23Reply
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Day 17
Wednesday, October 4, 2023 at 8:33 AM
☁️ 55 °F
Altitude: 2,707 ft
Spain Tosantos 42.413302, -3.24466742°24’48” N 3°14’41” W
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Day 14 Tosantos to Atapuerca
October 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F
Only 548 more kilometers to go... 😆 the first church we saw today was built right into the rocks above Tosantos. We climbed up a very steep ridge to a long forested path. Which kept us cool throughout the day. There was a unique refreshment stop surrounded by the artistic creations of the vender. We had lunch in San Juan de Ortega. We met up with our ethereal friend Silvie from France. We ended the day in Atapuerca in a very rustic Albergue called Hostel La Plazuepa Verde. Near the town is an archeological site where the oldest human remains in Europe were discovered going back 1.5 million years.Read more
Traveler Love the painting
10/4/23Reply
Traveler Who is this furry critter?
10/4/23Reply
TravelerI was sitting at a table in the upstairs common area and this guy climbed through the window and after feeding him some cat food Kim had for strays, he jumped up on my lap and start purring. I set him on my bed quilt to finish what I was dung and he immediately fell asleep...I think I have a companion for the night.
10/4/23Reply
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Day 18
Thursday, October 5, 2023 at 8:56 AM
☀️ 54 °F
Altitude: 3,501 ft
Spain Olmos de Atapuerca 42.380054, -3.53215442°22’48” N 3°31’56” W
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Day 15 Atapuerca to Burgos
October 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F
From Atapuerca we had a bit of a rocky climb which leveled off at this large cross. We walked through a few small villages today, had a break in Cardenuela Riopoco...best tortilla so far. There are two routes approaching Burgos, the river route is the preferred way, but because of some construction it was not well marked and many of missed the entrance. The alternative was a long walk on pavement through the industrial outskirts of the city and the crowded downtown commerce area. The light at the end of the tunnel did not disappoint, as Kim had booked a room in the historic Norte y Londres Hotel. It is the oldest hotel on the Camino and has been beautifully restored and is located very near the Cathedral Santa Maria. We are spending an extra day here to explore the sites and rest the dogs.Read more
TravelerSounds wonderful, and you know I'm always up for the scenic tour
10/5/23Reply
Traveler Love this
10/5/23Reply
Traveler Nice glad you are treating yourselves.
10/5/23Reply
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Day 19
Friday, October 6, 2023 at 12:33 PM
☀️ 77 °F
Altitude: 2,897 ft
Spain Burgos Cathedral 42.340579, -3.70429942°20’26” N 3°42’15” W
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Day 16 Burgos
October 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F
We took an extra day in Burgos to do some site seeing, replenish some essentials, and recharge. There was not much rest however, as we packed a lot into the day. There was a Medieval Festival starting, so there were lots of vendors to browse. The Cathedral Santa Maria which opened in 1260 is spectacular and we spent a good amount of time there. We made a run out to Decathlon (sort of like Spain's version of REI). We hiked up to a castle 🏰 above the city where the views were amazing, had a sampling of Tapas for dinner, then repacked our backpacks for the morning 🌅Read more
Traveler These all are amazing pictures. I'm glad you took the day to enjoy it. Looks like you got some miles in touring the town.
10/6/23Reply
TravelerWe did, but not nearly as many as usual. Thank you friend for taking the time to come along virtually! I truly wish you were here with us!
10/7/23Reply
Traveler Honestly, me too. But I'm not physically up for it yet.
10/7/23Reply
Traveler Love the t-shirt
10/7/23Reply
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Day 20
Saturday, October 7, 2023 at 7:50 AM
🌙 52 °F
Altitude: 2,910 ft
Spain Río Cardeñadijo 42.341778, -3.70997842°20’30” N 3°42’36” W
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Day 17 Burgos to Hornillos del Camino
October 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 52 °F
We left Burgos just as it was turning light. We came across a very " blingy" mosaic Pilgrim. We are now venturing into a region known as the Maseta....rolling hills and long flat stretches with sparse villages. We walked past a lot of murals in Tardajos and stopped there for brunch. The highlight of the day though was stopping at Ermita de Nuestra Senora de Monasterio, a very small church in the village of Rabe de Las Calzadas. We were given a small medallion around our necks then blessed and hugged by the sweetest little nun...It brought tears to my eyes. We ended the day in a place called Hornillos del Camino, where the owner of a small hostel/hotel picked us up and took us 2.6 k to the village of Isar. Accommodations on the Maseta are harder to come by because the distances are longer and albergues fewer.Read more
Traveler Nice picture of the walk
10/7/23Reply
TravelerThe Maseta is loved by some and loathed by others. I am the former.
10/7/23Reply
Traveler Sweet
10/7/23Reply
TravelerThis was a very special moment...and totally unexpected!
10/7/23Reply
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Day 21–23
October 8, 2023 at 12:31 PM - October 10, 2023
2 nights
⛅ 75 °F
Altitude: 2,703 ft
Spain Monasterio de San Antón 42.292149, -4.09886442°17’32” N 4°5’56” W
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Day 18 Hornillos d. Camino-Gastrojeriz
Oct 8–10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F
We all decided to start in shorts today, but it was a bit chilly until the sun came up. It turned out to be another beautiful sunny day. We stopped in Hontanas for a little break. I had a tasty piece of watermelon. The first I have seen in Spain. Our next stop was at the ruins of Convento de Anton. We passed under the archway Arco de San Anton. There is a very rustic Albergue still in operation there, but it has no heat, no lights and no meals are available. We ended our day in Gastrojeriz at Albergue Rosalia. Kim and I attended a pilgrim meditation, while Julie did some exploring around town. The pilgrims meal was quite good here.Read more
Traveler Now that's the kind of marker I need
10/8/23Reply
TravelerUs too! 😆
10/10/23Reply
Traveler Evening and they are still walking
10/8/23Reply
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Day 22–25
October 9, 2023 at 8:26 AM - October 12, 2023
3 nights
☁️ 50 °F
Altitude: 2,582 ft
Spain Castrogeriz 42.289919, -4.14884542°17’24” N 4°8’56” W
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Day 19 Castrajeriz to Fromista
Oct 9–12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F
We had a pretty steep climb out of Castrajeriz right away this morning, but the sunrise and views from the top were fantastic. Stopped at an Italian run Albergue that was once a pilgrims hospital. It was not quite as rustic as the previous one. It did have hot water. We had our break in Villarmentero de Campos. There was nothing but a small market there, so everyone was just sitting around it on the curb. When we got into Fromista we caught up to our guardian angel veterans, The Last Patrol. As it turned out we stayed at the same Albergue.Read more
Traveler Pilgrims at rest. And taking nourishment. And then moving on.
10/9/23Reply
Traveler Making so many memories 😌
10/9/23Reply
Traveler The road less traveled...not. it does give a good image of the lengthy trail.
10/9/23Reply
TravelerAmazing perspective for sure!
10/10/23Reply
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Day 23
Tuesday, October 10, 2023 at 9:34 AM
☀️ 50 °F
Altitude: 2,536 ft
Spain Piña de Campos 42.232722, -4.42930242°13’58” N 4°25’45” W
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Day 20 Fromista to Carrion de Condes
October 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F
We had a shorter walk today, so we took our time heading out. The mornings are quite crisp now. We started out with hats, puffers and gloves. Within an hour or so we are back to shirt sleeves. We are continuing across the Maseta and took an alternate route that kept us in quiet countryside instead of near the highway. We were fortunate to find the Ermita de la Virgen del Rio church open to visit. We stopped for refreshments in Villacazar de Sirga which is home to the magnificent Knights of Templar church Santa Maria, open since the early 1300's. We ended the day in Carrion de Los Condes, where we were honored to celebrate the birthday of our new friend Ann which we met in Hornillos de Camino.Read more
Traveler So much detail
10/10/23Reply
Traveler Happy birthday
10/10/23Reply
TravelerThank you my friend! It will be good to be back amongst my peeps and get my chip. I am not having any opportunity for program activity so far
10/10/23Reply
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Day 24–26
October 11, 2023 at 8:08 AM - October 13, 2023
2 nights
🌙 45 °F
Altitude: 2,762 ft
Spain Iglesia de Santiago 42.338895, -4.60332942°20’20” N 4°36’12” W
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Day 21 Carrion to Ledigos
Oct 11–13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 45 °F
From Carrion there was a 10 mile stretch with no villages until we reached Calzadilla. There is one Cafe Movil (what we would call a food truck) on the segment map, but you can never be certain it will actually be there, especially this late in the season. We packed extra water and some snacks to get us through. I enjoyed walking and talking with my new friends from Spain, Maria and Helga. Our last leg today was about 4 miles more into Ledigos.Read more
Traveler This one made me chuckle
10/12/23Reply
Traveler New friends
10/12/23Reply
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Day 25
Thursday, October 12, 2023 at 9:51 PM
🌙 66 °F
Altitude: 2,736 ft
Spain Bercianos del Real Camino 42.389045, -5.13700242°23’21” N 5°8’13” W
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Day 22 Ledigos to Bercianos
October 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 66 °F
It didn't seem quite as chilly this morning as we headed out in a beautiful sunrise. We took a coffee break in San Nicolas, where Kim found some adorable kittens to feed from her stash of canned cat food and treats. Just before entering Sahagun we crossed a Romanesque bridge leading to Ermita Virgen del Puente XIIC an ancient pilgrim hospice and through the grandiose gateway Centro Geografico del Camino into the city. On the far side of the city we stopped for an agua con gas (sparkling water) and were treated to a sampling of free tapas. We were delighted to meet up with our rowdy Irish friend Fiona. At Calzada del Coto we took the alternate route to go to Bercianos where we ended our day at a very nice Albergue La Perela.Read more
Cool pictures! I like sculptures [Janet]
10/12/23Reply
TravelerSo many interesting things everyday along the way.
10/13/23Reply
Traveler 🥰 perfect
10/12/23Reply
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