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  • Day 15

    Italy: too little or too much

    September 22, 2023, Ionian Sea ⋅ 🌬 28 °C

    We had set the alarm for 0500 but we needn't have bothered as I was awake at 0357! The wind was calmer through the night so the plan was to be halfway across to beat the forecasted stronger winds. I was concerned we'd get part way and the wind and waves would be too strong and big. We set off with coffee on the go at 0520, before sunrise. It was a clear sky with beautiful stars above. It was dark except for lights on shore but we could start to see the sea ahead as the sky lightened with the dawn. The wind was 13knots as we came out from the harbour and there were waves on our stern quarter pushing us along as well as some swells dipping and rolling us. Sails went up but soon with 1st then 2nd reefs (sail reduction) as the wind increased. We ended up lowering the mainsail and sailing with a portion of the jib. The wind alarm kept beeping telling us the wind was at +25 knots and the waves were +2 meters. I was not happy, in fact I was in a state of extreme anxiety and tried singing, breathing and repeating a mantra compulsively while Capt. Bob remained cool as he steered and kept the boat steady in the swells. After 3 hours, the radio came on announcing, "All ships: gale warning." I was ready to press the distress button announcing a medical emergency, my heart attack! There were 2 choices: carry on for another 50 nm for 9 hours or turn around and go back 15 nm for 3 hours. We turned around and made for Porto di Ciro again. The sail back was somewhat easier as the waves were off our port bow. A bit splashy but not washing over the deck. After the first hour, my fear diminished as the wind lessened and we could see land. The sails were back up fully and we came into port 6 hours after departing. As we docked in the same spot, a fisherman came along, pointed to the sea and stated, " Problema." No kidding! It's no wonder we were the only boat out there, or so we thought. Later in the evening, to our surprise, another sailboat (bigger) came in and we helped them dock. The crew doesn't speak English so we don't know where they came from but it must have been a rough day. My antidote for stress relief was watching the crew of the fishing trawlers sort their lines and repair the nets. Heavy hard work and that's before going out to sea.
    We spent the evening looking at forecasts and alternatives: straight crossing or going up the coast around the Golfo and stopping at Taranto and Gallipoli. TBA as Sunday looks to be a calmer day before the next blow.
    My other concern at the moment is the innumerable mosquito and no-see-um bites I have that are driving me mad! I have a fan and wrap the sheet like a mummy around me yet I find new bites every morning! Thank goodness for After bite but I am now in a war using smoke coils, netting and spray and may resort to rubbing lemon juice all over!
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