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Greek Odyssey and more!
  • SailingSealaVie

Greek Odyssey and more!

A 63-day adventure by SailingSealaVie Read more
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  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    our breakfast terrace
    1Turkish sweetsfisherman lining the bridgeChurch (only one we saw)Protest against Israelresting spot after the Turkish bathscrubbed, and fluffed

    Istanbul

    May 12, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We wandered about Istanbul visiting museums and mosques; they are everywhere and the call to prayers 5 times a day are in stereo, but not coordinated in words or sounds, and in competition in who can be the loudest. It's a cacophony of sounds and not at all pleasant, particularly at 5 a.m.! We walked over the bridge and visited a church where a Sunday service was happening. What was alarming was the police presence and when asked, they replied to keep a presence in case of trouble. 🤯 As we walked along the streets, stenciled on the roads were the words, "Israel terrorists", "Israel baby killers". Later, as Bob and I came back to the plaza near the Blue Mosque, there was a protest against Israel occurring. Of course there were police with machine guns; it was peaceful, albeit loud. It's the first and only bit of what's happening in the world we've seen so far.
    Kathie and I enjoyed a Turkish bath experience while Bob and Larry went to an art museum. Kathie and I got the better deal! It was wonderful being scrubbed, bubbled, massaged and fluffed. I asked to have my wrinkles scrubbed away, but sadly, miracles are not part of the experience! Revived and refreshed, we met the fellows on time and had Turkish treats then visited more of Istanbul.    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    Topkapi Gardens
    Cemetery in Istanbulferry to the Asian sidetea on the ferry with EU side behindmosquenight trainguess who had the top bunk!Plovdiv hotel...a proper bed 🛌

    Taking the night train...

    May 14–15, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We spent our last days in Istanbul visiting Topkapi Castle, the Blue Mosque, the Science & Technology Museum, a library, the Grand Bazaar (more like a busy mall 🤯😐) and took a ferry to the Asian side. Kathie & Larry had visited before so they did their own thing, including Larry's visit to a Turkish barber💈where he was coiffed, plucked and waxed! He looked fabulous! We met up to collect our things, have something to eat and walk to the train station where we took 2 trains to get to the station for our night train to Istanbul. That train had 3 cars and they were all sleeping couchettes. The seats were fairly uncomfortable but folded down to a bed and it was comfortable. The top bunk folded down from the wall. There was a sink, and a fridge with a couple of snacks and juices. The bathrooms were at either end of the car and not so nice. We set off at 6 p.m. and went to sleep later only to be woken up at 2:30 a.m. to go through passport control leaving Turkey. We all trooped off and stood in line to have passports stamped then back on and moved down the track for about 15 minutes only to be disturbed again for entry into Bulgaria! Fortunately, we didn't have to get off; someone took our passports and after about 45 minutes, they were returned and the train set off again.
    Consequently, not much sleep and we were late arriving in Plovdiv. Probably a good thing because when we arrived at the hotel, they let us check in. A lovely hotel in the old town.    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    Ethno museum, Plovdiv
    part of the Roman stadium, Plovdivcity hall, Plovdivmosaicsinteractive display of mosaic birds, PlovdivSofia ruins with mosquegold domed basilica, Sofia

    Bulgaria: Plovdiv & Sofia

    May 15–20, 2024 in Bulgaria ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We took walking tours in both cities which were wonderful in explaining history, architecture, and ruins. In one corner of Plovdiv, there were 5 different eras of architecture from Roman to present day! The Plovdiv Basilica museum was fantastic with fabulous mosaics they've uncovered and displayed. In Sofia, we visited the Central Synogogue (only one) where we had to go through a more intense security than at any airport. The guard wondered and seemed concerned why Bob was asking if there had been any protests but also stated there are "problems in the world now." You think??!!
    We left Kathie & Larry 😪 to take the night train back to Istanbul and Bob and I rented a car to head toward Bucharest.    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    atop the Monastery
    1Pleven's city park with waterfalls, fountains. Lovely!St. George's Mausoleum commemorating soldiersMother Bulgaria, 1877, 1944crypt in the mausoleumPleven park

    Pleven, Bulgaria

    May 20–21, 2024 in Bulgaria ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We went to the Sofia airport to rent a car and set off for Pleven. The scenery was lovely - forested mountains, fertile farms. The highway was both multi-lane and country roads with a lot of truck traffic going the other way. 👍Drivers are fast and appear to be unconcerned at passing on a hill or curve! 🤯😬 We decided to venture up to see a Monastery so Bob's stick shift driving skills were put to the test on the gravel, single lane, cliff road and only met one car 😬. Beautiful view. We met a very wild looking caretaker/monk who lives alone but apparently hosts guests. We carried on to Pleven, a lovely town with a beautiful centre park with our hotel at the edge overlooking the Mausoleum.Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    blocked in!
    Bulgarian countrysideChurch caveclimbed up to the Church caveChurch cavemissing is the horse & cart sign! We did see them!monument of Liberty, Ruseview of military from the vanRomanian countryside

    Ruse, Bulgaria to Bucharest, Romania

    May 21–23, 2024 in Bulgaria ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Our departure from Pleven was delayed as our car was blocked in! The hotel reception lady was in a tizzy trying to determine who owned the van and calling the police or tow company to remove it. In the meantime, we wandered the park, the ruins, the mausoleum then came back to find no change! Finally, the van owner showed up, no apologies or word said, got in the van and drove off! So did we! We drove to Ruse with a "must see" detour to the Church Cave. Obviously not a big attraction as the path up the cliff was overgrown! It was merely a cave with a candle and a small painting. Chalk our visit up to the good ??? marketing by Bulgarian tourism!
    We arrived in Ruse and wandered down to the Danube and around the park. 4 river boat cruises were docked and a barge was coming in. We parked the car in a secure underground lot and the following day we caught the van to Bucharest. We had to stop at the border and hand over our passports. When Bob asked about Schengen, the guard said, "Not here, only airport." huh?? So much for Schengen countries and open borders...not. As we were waiting, we noticed 4 transport trucks carrying U.S. howitzers waiting to cross into Romania. Presumably headed for Ukraine. 🤯😬 It made me feel very uncomfortable. After a wild ride into Bucharest, we were dropped off near the main intersection and told to be there in 2 days for the return. Not having internet (Bulgarian SIM doesn't work) we forced ourselves to have a pastry 🤪 while we looked for a hotel. After a bit of booking name confusion, we checked into a lovely boutique hotel then set about organizing our bus tour to Peles Castle, Brasov and 🧛🏻‍♂️ Dracula's Castle for the next day. As our hotel was 2.5 kms away from the centre, we did a lot of tooing and froing. Aching feet!    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    Peles Castle courtyard
    1retractable roof!armourymountain top cross for Romanian soldiersBrasovDracula's castle1torture room

    2 castles and Brasov, Romania

    May 23, 2024 in Romania ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    It was an early start for the the bus tour to Peles Castle , Brasov and 🧛🏻‍♂️Dracula's Castle as we had to be at the meeting point by 0720. We left the hotel in a sprinkling of rain, stopped to pick up coffee and a pastry and waited for the bus. We arrived at Peles Castle after a 2 hour drive, some of which was in the Bucharest morning traffic - 7 lanes! The Castle was built in the town of Sinaia, by the first King of Romania, Carol I of Hohenzollern – Sigmaringen, between 1873 and 1914 and became a summer home with an adjoining Castle for adopted son, King Ferdinand. The town is reminiscent of a German ski town as there is a ski resort and large mountainside homes. After a partial tour of the castle, we traveled down mountain switchbacks to the town of Brasov. We saw what I assume was a professional cyclist 🚵‍♂️ as he was pedaling downhill (!!) and ahead of the bus! We wandered through the town and had lunch then on to 🧛🏻‍♂️Dracula's Castle. It was disappointing in that there was no tour, limited information, crowded, and minimal furnishings. A three hour bus trip back to Bucharest, a 2.5 km walk to the hotel and fortunately, a nearby restaurant! A long day with beautiful mountain scenery. I'm glad we weren't driving but I wouldn't recommend the day tour. Apparently you can take the Orient Express to Sinaia/Peles Castle and have a private tour. Now THAT would be the way to do it! We met a fellow from Kamloops who now lives in Columbia, S.A. and says the drug/crime issue is all hype. We also met a U.S. missionary living in Vienna. He's lived there for 3 years, has only visited Salzburg and his kids are at an English school and not learning German. I'd say he's missing fabulous opportunities!Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    King Carol 1, Bucharest
    Bucharest parkGorgeous bookstore in Bucharestcrossing the Danube Romania to BulgariaBulgarian teens celebrating Prom.Eco park1

    Bucharest to Ruse to Sofia

    May 24, 2024 in Romania ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We weren't catching the van back to Bulgaria until 4:15 p.m. so we lounged at the hotel and chatted with a German fellow. There was mutual admiration as he had been to Van. Is. last summer and loved it, and we shared our love of our German cycling trips! We packed up and started downtown to discover Bob had left socks drying so back we went. We wandered around Bucharest, had lunch at a famous beer place and chatted with the young server who says he won't vote in the upcoming election because he doesn't like/trust any candidates! Sounds familiar! We went to the European Art Museum then wandered to the pickup spot and waited an extra 45 minutes! When asked why the van was late, the response was "No English." I know why it was late: Bucharest traffic is terrible!
    Crossing the border was quick and Bob didn't question anyone 🙃, and we walked back to the same hotel in Ruse. The park was busy as it was Prom week so there were lots of teens dressed to celebrate. We started the next morning with another blocked car issue! The gate in the underground wouldn't go up! Fortunately the guard came, had to call the co. for help and the gate lifted! Whew! We stopped on our way back to Sofia at an eco park and did a river walk. Lovely. Returned the rental car and took the metro to the hotel, organized the bus tickets for the next day's journey to Thessaloniki, then ate at the place we'd been to with Kathie & Larry. A full few days and happy to be going back to Greece!    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    1bus route along the river
    tour boatAlexander the GreatUmbrellas sculptureArch of GaleriusRoman emperor from 305 to 311detail on the archamazing jewelry found in the ruins

    Thessaloniki, Greece ❤🇬🇷

    May 26, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    We left Sofia by bus and traveled through gorgeous scenery along a river, through a canyon and past farms. As we got closer to Greece, I felt a shift. Whether it was the incredible blue sky or the approach to the sea...I'm not sure but the heaviness of Bulgaria & Romania lifted. The border was simple as our passports were scanned and stamped at the same place. We spent 2 days wandering Thessaloniki including a +4 km walk to an Art Gallery that was closed! (Bob hadn't checked 🤪) The sea front was busy with pirate tour boats, walkers, cyclists, cafes and it seems everyone comes out late afternoon and evening for the sunset. Everyone is friendly, helpful and generous. When you think you are finished dinner, the server appears with dessert and raki, free of charge. Thessaloniki was a lovely re-entry into Greece! Next up: Crete!Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    2
    Heraklion harbour with fort behindmosque, now Orthodox Churchour dinner place, Cafe Kagiampi

    Heraklion, Crete

    May 29, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We flew into Heraklion after taking the standing room only bus to Thessaloniki Airport where the security decided my 4" nail file was a dangerous weapon, but not my 10" knitting needles!🤯 The flight was less than an hour. Sadly, I didn't have a window seat. We arrived and easily caught the bus to old town and found our hotel on a quiet lane just outside the pedestrian area. Lots of good restaurants around us, including one with communist leanings as he had photos of the (in)famous who had eaten there, and books. Lovely man who recommended/told us what to have and brought us delicious dessert and raki to finish the meal. We wandered the streets of old town and found a knitting store with all sorts of buttons. I will return to it with my yarn...Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    bull leaping frescoe
    Pluto, Persephone & Cerebusoriginal thronefrescoes in the Queen's baththeatre and roadgorgeous flowers in a neighbour's yardalong Heraklion seafrontboat art pieces made of sticks, logs.

    More rocks, statues, frescoes...

    May 30, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We visited both the Archeological Museum and Knossos, the Minoan Palace built around 1900 BC and is associated with the Greek myth of the Minotaur. The museum was by far the better of the two as it had all the original findings and treasures whereas the archeological site is basically the layout of the Palace. Perhaps I've overdosed on piles of rocks this trip?🤪 There is construction at the site to build it up as it was in its glory but there is some disagreement regarding the layout and the purpose of areas and rooms. In any case, it was interesting and worthwhile. Now it is time for some sand & sea! Next up: Matala, on the south coast.Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    road side view to Matala
    almost to the sea!Matala cavesrestaurants, cafesdinner view

    😍🏖Matala

    May 31, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We rented a car from Heraklion Airport but had difficulty finding it amongst the multitude of rental companies! We were finally on our way and for once, no wrong turns! Straight south between both scrubby and green mountains and through tunnels until we reached the sparkling blue sea again 🥰. After settling into our small hotel, we wandered down to the beach. Matala is an ancient town with Roman tombs in the caves above the sea, an old hippie town with painted VWs, streets and cafes, and a tourist resort but with small hotels, b&bs, and pensions, no big hotel chains. The beach was pebbley but sand and flat plates of rock in the sea made it an easy entry and the water was glorious. I swam over to the rocks and climbed up only to meet a fellow from Nanaimo! Needing to get out of the sun we retired to our porch and later had a sunset view while having dinner at a beach restaurant. If I'm not on a ⛵, this is the best holiday life 🏖🌅!Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    church in the rock
    inside the rock churchclimbing up and over the rock mountain to red beachview of red Beach from the topfood shackrock faces made by German touristis he or isn't he?600 year old olive tree carved as hippie Anthem to Matala - peace, love, friendship

    Matala 2

    June 1, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We'd decided to do the hike up and over to the Red sand beach so after a coffee on our porch and a sweet treat at Mama's Bakery, we set off climbing the stairs to the trail. It was a rocky, dusty path but well marked and with great views. At the bottom, 2 snack shops, 1 festooned with flags from around the world, 🇨🇦 too, and claims to have the best mojito in the world. I didn't try it as it was before noon! The beach was all sand and as we walked to the end, found a sand castle and rock faces. Not many were on the beach but those that were, were tanned all over! A nude German woman, our age, sauntered over to tell us about the rock faces that her husband created and to chat about how she has come to Matala every year since 1979. It didn't seem at all strange to see tanned naked bodies walking the beach, swimming, sunbathing. White body parts meant they were new to the nudie beach! There were a few with bathing suits on and a few families came too. We found shade under a rocky outcrop and enjoyed a few hours swimming, lounging on the beach, and eating a snack at one shack.
    A lovely day only marred later when I slipped on the sandy boardwalk, fell and cut my arm. Painful as I landed on the bone but fortunately, only a small cut and solved it with ice, bandage and pain med.
    Crete is magical!    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    Matala tomb caves
    Rethimno fortification wall and restaurantChania's old Town fortification wallsunset at Chania harbourharbour restaurants busy with dining and sunset watchersapartments/hotels/restaurants built on top of archeological sites

    Matala caves to Chania's old town

    June 2, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Is there a better way to start the day than breakfast sweet treats and coffee on the beach? On a ⛵ perhaps. I watched the morning unfold while waiting for the Caves to open. A few early kayakers and swimmers were out. The Caves opened and I climbed and made my way to view as many inside and as high as I felt comfortable. They are fabulous and so well preserved! Had a swim after then we packed up and headed north through the mountains towards Chania with a quick stop to look at Tympaki's harbour and a lunch stop in Rethimno. What's surprising is how few sailboats and fishing boats there are in Crete! One would think, as an island and from its history, Greeks would have boats!
    From Rethimno to Chania there is a long stretch of beach with hotels then another brief stretch of mountains to Chania. After checking in, we wandered old town and down to the harbour where it was teeming with people there to watch the sunset. A lovely end to the day.    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    Maritime Museum model
    Greek sailor BobChania sunset

    Chania's treasures

    June 3, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Chania has a wonderful Maritime Museum with artifacts and models, sea specimens, and stories of Crete's WWII occupation and resistance. One piece that struck me was a Cretan wedding dress made from a German silk parachute!
    We walked to the beach and had a swim, and Bob finally found a shop that sold Greek sailor caps! Dinner by the harbour and a sunset finished the lovely day.    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    roads are lined with gorgeous flowers
    hot and hazy view along the coast🥵🥵🥵Heraklion beachHeraklion ancient city gatefarewell hot and hazy Crete1bridge between Patra and Antirroferry to Antirro

    Last days on Crete

    Jun 4–6, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    We left Chania after stopping at the grocery store for some breakfast and enjoying it at the beach. It wasn't long before we were on the long beach before Rethimno and as we were the only ones as far as we could see, we stripped off and enjoyed a leisurely cooling swim. The hotel receptionist had recommended we visit the birthplace of El Greco where there is a museum so we ventured again on a gravel twisty road with construction adding to the driving stress only to discover it was closed! 🤯 Another swim was in order so we stopped at a resort area for a refreshing cool down. Back to Heraklion at the same hotel and they gave us a suite! The following day we took the city bus to their big beach, rented sunbeds and an umbrella and spent a few leisurely hours. The following day we were up before 0700 to catch our flight to Athens where we picked up a rental car to drive to Preveza to pick up our boat gear. After 40 minutes driving, we went back as Bob said something was wrong with the steering!🤯😬 It turns out the "wandering lane" button was on so the steering automatically puts you back in the lane but you lose control momentarily! Scary! Once that got sorted, we left again and the 4 hour drive ended up being 6+hours with a brief lunch stop and ferry trip in the middle. We arrived in Preveza hot and tired but dinner and a walk on the sea front chatting to sailors and watching docking and anchoring shenanigans (been there and done that 🤪) lifted our spirits. As we walked past our favourite restaurant, we were greeted like old friends and given ouzo as a nightcap. A lovely finish to a long, 🥵🥱 day.Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    Preveza "curative" beach opposite the marina
    Amazing we could fit it all in!Nikiana Beach (we anchored there last Fall)starfish Bob at Red Tower hotel, NydriDelicious Greek dinner, Apollon restaurant, Nydrisunriseearly morning calmour favourite anchorage/swimming spot on Meganisi Is.1

    Revisiting favourites

    Jun 7–9, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Before heading to the marina to sort, gather, dispose and repack everything for the trip home, we walked through the Preveza marina to check if acquaintances were there (no, gone sailing) then along the seafront. We stopped at the beach across the channel from where Sea la Vie had resided and had a "curative" swim (there is a sulphur spring) then to "our" marina. I wasn't sure if Sea la Vie would still be there and I wasn't sure how I'd feel if she was! It turns out she was on her next voyage without us 😪. We hauled the bags out of storage and proceeded to lay everything out to see what was coming home, being donated or going in the garbage. A sailor came by asking if this was a boot sale! We ended up only donating a couple of items and the rest we repacked and managed to fit everything in the car! We said goodbye and drove to Lefkada where we'd sailed last Fall. Stopped and had another swim then checked into our lovely hotel atop a hill overlooking the sea. Swam in the pool then into Nydri town for a lovely seaside dinner.
    I woke up early the next morning and watched the sunrise, the birds, the early sailors setting off and marveled at the beauty.
    We had talked about driving north to visit the 6 monasteries on top of cliffs but I'd had enough of mountain roads, monasteries and long drives, plus it was hot and I wanted to swim! So we took the ferry to Meganisi Is. where we'd found our private cove to anchor in last Fall and walked to the cove from the ferry. We stayed for a couple of hours and were joined by a 2 boats, one of which was a power yacht that flew a Canadian flag! Watched as the crew set out kayaks etc. and 3 women went off paddling while 2 men swam. I have no idea who they were and didn't get a chance to say, "Hey, we're Canadian too, eh!"
    Afterwards, we drove into Lefkas to spend the night; it was a mistake as it was not as nice as our hilltop hotel, and noisy. That's the life of the spontaneous traveler...you take the bad and the good and hope there's more of the latter, which there has been!    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    swivel Bridge at Lefkada
    along the north side from Antirro to Delphiisland churcholive trees as far as the eye can seeDelphi Gorge - walking trails everywhere!temple of Athena at Delphiancient gymnasium at DelphiDelphi archeological sitefirst leg of the journey home

    Homeward bound

    Jun 9–10, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Our last day in Greece we spent driving back to Athens via Delphi. We left Lefkada and traveled a familiar route to Antirro but instead of the bridge or ferry, we stayed on the north side and drove along the coast until Itea, where we stopped for lunch. We only saw 2 boats, a few villages and beaches, and some fish farms. At Itea, we turned inland and up through the mountains to Delphi. As it was too hot (+38C) and we still had hours of driving, we didn't linger at Delphi. The Oracle was telling us to move along! We arrived at our near the airport accommodation at 1830 hot, hungry and tired but Bob wanted to do a trial run to the airport and car rental. Of course we got muddled with one way streets and roads every which way. After some "hangry" words and silences, we found our way. The plan in the morning was to drop me with the luggage at the airport while Bob returned the car. I suggested we both deliver the car and let the shuttle take us to the airport. It's a good thing we did that as Athens airport was bedlam and as it turned out, we needed the 3 hours to get the baggage sorted, get through passport control, and security! When we checked the bikes in, the AC attendant, who was lovely, said it was going to be €600 🤯 to which I responded with a photo of their baggage policy that bikes are $50 when you book ahead, which we'd done. It required an over-ride to their system but it all got sorted. It was $75 for the checked duffel so I suggest that everyone register their checked bags as bikes and pay less! 🤪🤣
    The flights were long and with only a slight delay in Montreal, we arrived in Vancouver at 2030, collected our bags, caught a taxi van and we were home by 2200! 24+ hours of no sleep but great to be home and in our own bed!
    The end of wonderful adventures and now, Sailing Sea la Vie ⛵has come to a close. 🥰    Read more

    Trip end
    June 10, 2024
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