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  • Powell Ettinger
  • Powell Ettinger

Seychonesia

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  • Powell EttingerSeychonesiaPowell Ettinger

    Sumbawa and an Old building

    1. lokakuuta 2025, Indonesia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    145 nautical miles from Bali, a visit to Sumbawa. Early pre-breakfast on back of deck 6 with views of Sumbawa island..

    Standard phrase on this trip, which I like.
    "The transport used will be the best available".

    An old building, used to be Sultan's palace. Main thing to note that it was built without nails, just wood joinery. Impressive. Mannequins all dressed as Sultan and Sultana, all look very European    Lue lisää

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  • Powell EttingerSeychonesiaPowell Ettinger
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    Buffadil racing

    1. lokakuuta 2025, Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Bus ride to small village. Pride and place was Buffalo racing. There will be some who don't approve but it is spectacular. You have to get to far end ASAP and knock down the wooden stick (effigy?).

    Preceded by the dreaded cultural dance, though this one was better than most. Included small boys fighting and a wedding ceremony. Maybe they have Irish connections.

    Small village where everyone seemed genuinely delighted to see us. Kids in brilliant school uniform, much better than UK (chinos and beach shirt). Strange ginger soup, weaving, lots of kids and chickens and a few old houses.
    Back to ship for lunch and relocation.    Lue lisää

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  • Powell EttingerSeychonesiaPowell Ettinger
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    Here be dragons

    2. lokakuuta 2025, Indonesia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Saw sunrise over Komodo. Early breakfast then to boats for beach. Split into 4-5 groups but, to be honest, group too big to be ideal.

    Saw half dozen or so dragon. From 2 year old (looks like monitor lizard) to big adult. Babies - only around 5% survive, not least because mother hangs around nesting site and tries to eat them, as do other adults. Babies hide inside palm trees for 2 years before emerging and taking their chances on the ground.

    Very tame deer here, dragon main prey, as are well as wild boar, water buffalo, horses (small) and even snakes and lizards.

    Dragons bite is venomous and full of deadly bacteria. Often bite their prey and follow for a week or two until dead.

    Females grow to 2 metres long, males to 3. Males fight at this time of year sumo style,over the impressionable ladies.

    Villagers somehow live in harmony with these beasts. Mostly squid fishermen they keep dragons away with sticks (like madao with lions?).

    Chicken are free roaming as dragons trash cages.    Lue lisää

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  • Powell EttingerSeychonesiaPowell Ettinger

    Vaguely pink beach

    2. lokakuuta 2025, Indonesia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Slight tourist trap with fantastic snorkeling. "Pink Beach" it is- if you catch the light just right, only look at a small corner of it, and at the right time of day (helps if you squint too).

    But despite plenty of people the snorkelling was excellent. But some idiot didn't check the camera case was closed properly so potential major F*#k up.Lue lisää

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  • Powell EttingerSeychonesiaPowell Ettinger
    11Top new golf hat

    Kodia Island - Want to live here

    3. lokakuuta 2025, Indonesia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Kodia Island. So little known that Google AI tries to persuade you it is in Alaska. Heritage visit twice per year and virtually no one else does.

    To start. Whole village turned out to greet us, and kids limed up to High five or bump fists. Almost everyone very keen to engage, and they were taking as many photos of us as we were of them . A few language lessons (Terima Kasih-) thank you.

    Next to the dreaded cultural dance, which was a delight. Many girls dancing, large pister on stage dedicated to Heritage Expeditions ( only ship that visits) , coconut drinks for anyone that wants, (several miserable types turned them down), and speach from village chief.

    Free to wonder around. Just sat and chilled for 20 minutes watching. Then bought fine new golf hat made by weaving women in the village.

    My favourite bit. Tiny restaurant offering Bersih, Indah, Sejuk, Ramah, Tertib and Kanangan. And tea. Just sat and drank tea and interacted with ladies, mum's, grandma's and Daffy, small boy with top Barnet.

    Wondered round village, people happy to talk,bor not.

    Lovely looking houses, old wooden 2 story houses with balconies, newer brick/concrete being built, several signs offering homestay, and plenty of Gang culture ( houses or streets seem to be called gang something...).

    Newly printed signs in English saying things like " build a reef, build a future".

    Rough stone Causeway across to main island, and other half of village. Carries water in pipes from spring up the hill.

    Dramatic dry hills as a backdrop. Lovely

    Fine snorkeling/ diving here too, a favourite spot.

    Japanese base

    Rommel de Jesus    Lue lisää

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  • Powell EttingerSeychonesiaPowell Ettinger

    No beasts and beauty

    4. lokakuuta 2025, Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Wakatobi, made famous by Jacques Cousteau. Early breakfast but announcement that plans had changed and we would continue to Hogia Island for nature walk and swimming.

    Ashore for nature walk. Spent around an hour shuffling through rubbish strewn remains of old park centre and accommodation. Dire. Zilch of interest. Noticeable that at end of day recap there was zero mention on the so called. Nature walk.

    But it sparked an on board discussion forum the following day as the state of the place couldn't be ignored. Lou, ex head of NZ DOC, Komodo rod and Abam (works for CI on conservation for Raja Ampat. )
    All shocked at state of the place. Tried to clean up beach before we arrived but realised a hopeless task.
    Plastic bags - some places have become status symbol as food used to be wrapped in banana leaves or rattan, both biodegradable.
    Pacific Gyre.
    Single use plastics, especially water cups and iced lolly packets.
    Multi. Nationals selling shampoo etc in single use packets.
    Nowhere to put rubbish
    Some hope as bacteria and fungus have been discovered that will eat plastics

    Snorkeling excellent. Long drop edge and fantastic variety of fish and coral. Huge contrast to the disappointing island.

    Afternoon cruise enlivened by spouts ofca pod of sperm whales, and a line humpback.

    Fool, I have signed up for another nature walk tomorrow 🤦🤦    Lue lisää

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  • Powell EttingerSeychonesiaPowell Ettinger
    1111

    Buru Island beasts of beauty

    5. lokakuuta 2025, Indonesia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Short nature walk on Buru Island. Rod, Mr Komodo, in attendance. Thoroughly enjoyable.
    Main attractions -
    Golden orb we spiders
    World's largest jumping spider
    Various small beasts and bugs
    Huge caterpillars
    Wild hairy caterpillar
    Butterflies getting friendly    Lue lisää

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  • Powell EttingerSeychonesiaPowell Ettinger
    1

    I fought the law - Buro village

    5. lokakuuta 2025, Indonesia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Well at least bumped fists with it.

    Whisked along channel between outlying island and Buru Island to the village of,,?

    Greeted by hordes of kids as ever, we were just in time to miss the official presentation from the village. Free to walk around and explore, we were quickly stopped by a scary arsed policeman; red beret, shades, balaclava and small sidearm. And what did he want? A selfie with me. He was called Bringas and he spoke a little English. Agreed it was way too hot to be wearing that kit.

    Asked him how they said Hello in local language. "Salaam Alikom"!
    Same as in Morocco. Basically Arabic.

    Wondered around meeting many many children and others. Highlights included 1 small boy with Chelsea shirt (Pulisic),any fine chickens, reams of kids and some adults wanting a selfie ( usually not a selfie just A photo). , , lots of fish drying, and a boardwalk along the stilt houses. Boardwalk was hugely picturesque, over the waters edge full of anemones and huge schools of small fish, past many fishing boats and a lot of fish drying, and, as ever, plenty of small boys happy to leap into the water for the camera.

    The village is inhabited by sea gypsy people, though their stilt houses looked fairly permanent, especially the new concrete ones.    Lue lisää

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  • Powell EttingerSeychonesiaPowell Ettinger

    The full force of the law

    5. lokakuuta 2025, Indonesia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Literally. Bumped into old friend Bringas, by now demasked, with 3 colleagues of his and their boss. 5 policeman for this 1 village? Apparently.

    Lots of chat in very broken English with a few words of Bahassa and Arabic thrown in, much to great amusement of the local constabulary. Asked how tall you needed to be in UK to be policeman. I hammed it up a bit, 6 foot 3 or so, beyond their imagination. Also pointed out no guns, but short stick/truncheon, acted out in mime.

    Most houses have huge satellite dish. If we hang around until 15.00 we can watch Premier League (pronounced Prremeyer Leguay).

    Lots more singing and dancing from school girl team, while small boys continue to throw themselves into the sea.    Lue lisää

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  • Powell EttingerSeychonesiaPowell Ettinger

    Jungle lookout

    6. lokakuuta 2025, Indonesia ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    Gathered ashore and jumped into a series of small SUVs for short 30 drive on some deeply rutted roads to Ceram National Park entrance. Felt very smug as found a good walking stick and tipped driver 20 for chopping it to size with his machete. Only to find 2 minutes later they were provided for everyone for free!.

    Very hot sweaty walk through proper jungle. 45 minutes of great noises and a few butterflies on wet slippery muddy path. Emerged at fantastic viewpoint with hutte offering tea-coffee (in same drink) and snacks.

    Glimpsed a hornbill, a hawk and a parrot. Apparently you can stay here for a night.

    Shorter downhill return and back to village. A quick walk around, not nearly to interesting as yesterday.

    Some excellent local snacks and drinks before returning to ship. Bright pink dragon fruit drink, ginger drink, fried plantain, breadfruit, sweet potato, fish curry (with Sago goo) and some Cassava Onde Onde! Melted Pam sugar surrounded by cassava flour and coated with grated coconut. Yum.    Lue lisää

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  • Powell EttingerSeychonesiaPowell Ettinger
    11

    Misool

    7. lokakuuta 2025, Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Zodiac cruise around some of the chain of islands at the end of the Misool archipelago. Large super yacht (White Rabbit) here, only the second ship we have seen since Bali! ( 1small freighter in Buru). . Splendid limestone formations, magic beaches, sea full of Salp, and a lot of jelly fish so snorkeling cancelled.

    Birders excited by brahminy kite, sulphur crested cockatoo, reef and great billed heron and a few others.

    Afternoon zodiac, via a few rock paintings to jetty for Harfat peak. Spectacular views across Raja Ampat. 300 or so steps up but several missing and some big gaps. Amazed at some of the people that went, walking sticks etc , and Even more amazed that they made it up.    Lue lisää

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  • Powell EttingerSeychonesiaPowell Ettinger

    Mutus magic

    8. lokakuuta 2025, Indonesia ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    Mutus Island - magic place. The stats are they get 135 visiting tourists per year. When the ship arrives. Huge drumming welcome, whole village in attendance, lots of dancing and clapping, food in abundance and the de rigeur coconut drink.

    Also impressed with Heritage as Large numbers of school books, plus rugby balls and footballs presented to village chief.

    Walk around the village - a few pet lorikeets and surprisingly good birds including a cockatoo. Plant a few mangroves, play the junior school at football, quick swim and back to the boat for 11am.

    Another typical day.

    Absolutely magic    Lue lisää

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  • Powell EttingerSeychonesiaPowell Ettinger

    Match of the day

    8. lokakuuta 2025, Indonesia ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    Ended up as a no score bore. We played the primary school - Thank god the secondary school started earlier so we didn't have to take them on. A very mixed bag of a few who could kick a ball (Abam & tropi), a few rugby players who could run about and hoof the ball, (Nathan and some other kiwis) and lots of other enthusiasts.

    Kids started on top but once we had worked out our system, it was one way traffic, but no end product Brian.

    Was just getting into stride when match finished as school was starting!

    After match photo was very hard to find a kid to sit on my shoulders, they were terrified!    Lue lisää

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  • Powell EttingerSeychonesiaPowell Ettinger
    val, crew member and sometimes artist

    Viewpoint 2

    8. lokakuuta 2025, Indonesia ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    Another Geopark, another viewpoint. But not as high, not as fun and not as viewy as yesterday's, but still worth the effort.

    Spotted a Spice-imperial pigeon on way back.

    Snorkelling later, decent, spotted a turtle and new snood very comfortable. Raining by the time we have finished.Lue lisää

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  • Powell EttingerSeychonesiaPowell Ettinger
    1

    Bopping

    9. lokakuuta 2025, Indonesia ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    3.30 alarm for a scheduled 4.15 departure. Amazingly a full breakfast available being patrolled by the large Jorg (German Swedish chef).

    Jorg somehow seems to join almost every excursion, be immaculately turned out and still feed 230 people 3 times per day with a variety of menus. Apparently container load of food appears from Hamburg. But how do they offer fresh lettuce after a month at sea?

    Some discontent amongst the troops as long delays meant our cars didn't arrive to collect us until after 5. But once arrived we could understand. Previous group (3.45departure) had some issues with the road. Cars not 4x4 yet road/track muddy, stony, rutted and steep. Some cars having to have 3-4 goes at on short hill, and 2 cars suffering flat tyres/ breakdown.

    Eventually arrived at walk start in jungle. 35 minutes walk uphill to ingenious small natural amphitheatre overlooking BOP display arena. Early group in possession of all best seats.

    Wilson BOP arrived shortly afterwards, displayed and disappeared. Early group left us to head back down and we took over the best seats, just in time for a fine display from a male and juvenile male.

    Walk back down enlivened by huge millipede. Excellent snacks, fried cassava and plantain with chilli sauce. I declined the raw chillies option.

    Discussion with taxi driver, turned out Rahman (?) was air traffic controller at local airport ( 2 flights per week) so spoke good English.

    Rahman is keen Chelsea fan. "Lampard, John Terry, Drogba..". He enters lottery every year and first prize is trip to see Chelsea.    Lue lisää

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  • Powell EttingerSeychonesiaPowell Ettinger

    Mansinam island

    10. lokakuuta 2025, Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    An hour and a half on Mansinam Island. Bit of a make weight morning as birders on 04.00 mission to see some more BOP. Welcoming songs and dances, but don't feel as authentic or heartfelt as smaller places, but still fun.

    Band almost rocking, and with home made instruments. Guitar and double bass made from plywood and a few nails. Not sure what they use for strings but Caroline pointed out not many cats around!

    Wandered round, flowers, lots of photo me kids ( Sweet girl with T-shirts saying "I'm smarter than the teacher").

    We then met the teacher (Peter) on his moped, but noone seemed to get the joke.

    This island has big Christ figure (like Rio) and unusually large churches. Apparently whee Christianity "landed" in the area. Explains why this is the first place we have seen pigs in Indonesia. Local word for pigs is Barbey- short for BBQ?    Lue lisää

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  • Powell EttingerSeychonesiaPowell Ettinger
    Obeid the fisherman
    Colin the barberGarfish

    Fishmarket shave

    10. lokakuuta 2025, Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Ashore to fish market in Manokwari. Mostly yellowfin tuna but some other smaller. Proud fisherman Obeid insisted on showing me his prize tuna.

     Plenty of fresh veg too, but curiously little fruit.

    Colin the barber gave me a 3.5 star shave. Missed a little patch on right jaw, and massage substandard. Rest of shave excellent, and for under £1.

    All fish in market were very fresh, but floor covered with rank water pools and remains of old fish.    Lue lisää

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  • Powell EttingerSeychonesiaPowell Ettinger

    Whale Sharks.

    11. lokakuuta 2025, Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    One of the expected highlights of the cruise , the whale sharks of Cenderwasih Bay.

    Day dawned cloudy and the sea a bit bumpy. Headed out to the Bagaan (huge fishing platform used around here) where the whale sharks gather to feed on the Small fish caught in the nets. Originally they would suck the fish from the nets but now the fishermen feed them.

    Sea was choppy and full of detritus, mostly vegetation washed out by overnight rains. Made visibility sub optimal, but more frustrating was the elbowing of fellow passengers desperate to get in position with no regard to others.

    But the sharks didn't disappoint. At least two, possibly four, would appear from below or behind, glide past and disappear into the murk. They seem to have some innate sense of where the humans were as they would glide through without touching any of the crowd.

    Snorkelling in choppy waters was a challenge, and proved too much for C who was a bit Moby Dick once back in the Zodiac.

    Would absolutely love to come back and do this again on calm, clear day without the crowd.

    Amazed by how some people on this. Cruise have earned enough cash to be able to afford the cruise, with no charm or humour and the apparent IQ of a lobotomized gnat!    Lue lisää

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  • Powell EttingerSeychonesiaPowell Ettinger

    Last resort

    11. lokakuuta 2025, Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    After a lumpy morning and poor visibility I didn't know fancy an afternoon snorkel, preferring to head to the village instead. However over lunch with Richard and Kate the sea got flat, the temperature got up and a coollish seemed a good idea.

    After a Zodiac ride with the ever silent Kosta we rounded a corner to see a magical site. A tiny resort, only accessible from the sea and surrounded by jungle.

    Kalilemon Dive Resort.
    Puts Marathi in the shade. 5 very basic rooms, open air restaurant over the sea, tree house and private beach with picture book trees.

    70$ AUD per night, inc food. Fly from Makassar to Nabire. 2 hours in taxi, 45 minutes on a speed boat. Dead easy. P

    Snorkelling half decent but seems we missed the best bits around the end of the jetty. Spotted an abandoned fishing net about 25 yards of end of jetty but too big to do anything with.

    Whale sharks on the bagaans off shore, Manta Rays visit too.

    Dreamy.    Lue lisää

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  • Powell EttingerSeychonesiaPowell Ettinger

    Biak. Howclean is my market?

    12. lokakuuta 2025, Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Another makeweight morning. Slightly interesting visit to caves where Japanese troops were massacred in WWII. Followed by pointless visit to empty fish market, with host telling us to appreciate how clean the market was, which it wasn't particularly.

    A bit of a song and dance back on the quayside before back to boat. Waste of a morning - day set up for birders, ignoring everyone else.    Lue lisää

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