Alone in this world

As dawn breaks, we have another early morning start. The drive on the Sprengisandur will take almost all day, so we have to start early. After a simple breakfast on our wellness slippers, we check-out. Actually, we just have to leave the key on the counter as most employees work in the restaurant/breakfast area in the morning. When we walk to our car, we see some huge trucks parked in front of the hotel. These cars have been adapted to travel anywhere at any season.

We hit the road once more and after 10 minutes leave the comfort of asphalt for a day of shaky loose rocks. Unlike yesterday this road doesn't have that many potholes, it's mostly rocks and evading the biggest ones. We're lucky as the sun is shining upon us today allowing far views in the distance. We spot huge mountains and glaciers. After a couple of hours, we cross two bikes. Amazed by the dedication of those people, we stare at them as we pass by. They must have spent the night somewhere in this deserted place as it's impossible to travel by bike across in less than a day.

It's hard to find a reference point to locate where we are exactly on the map. Every time we do, we're surprised by how little we have advanced. River crossings are generally marked on the map, so we carefully follow up where we are to the first crossing. By the time we arrive at the first crossing, we have crossed one car (and the bikes). It gives us confidence that the crossing must be do-able as the other car must have made it across. We stop the car before the river and get out to inspect. Because of yesterday's failure we're determined to do everything thoroughly today. The information we read about river crossings said that the one driving should inspect the river by foot, even if the river seemed shallow and easy. I zip off my trousers and chance shoes. Grateful for the sun today and prepared for the bitter cold I step into the water. It's indeed freezing cold! Walking one way in the left tire track, and back in the right tire track I've found my route. Switching shoes again, prepping the car, and off we go! Everything goes smoothly this time. No remarks! Satisfied we continue our trip through no man's land.

Between this and the next river crossing we cross one more vehicle that is clearly adapted for this type of road and travel. No further confirmation or boost of confidence about what's coming next as this car could have made it across anything. When we arrive at the second crossing, we do the same: get out and inspect. This river is way wider and has small banks in between. When we're out exploring our possibilities, another car arrives to the crossing. I head back to the car to ask if I should move the car aside in case they want to go first. Of course they're happy to wait and also get out to inspect. The first section of the river is easy and I already advance the car through this part. For the second part, we still need to do some more exploring and I'm thinking of getting back in my wet shoes to do another walk through the river. The other car has seen enough though and sets off. We carefully watch how it goes and decide to follow the same track. This crossing also passes well. Only one more to go today! But the last one is the most dangerous with a wide riverbed and strong current. Advise says to drive from bank to bank and not stop. Curious what we'll find we continue.

About 3 quarters in our trip, we arrive at the last river crossing. The car that crossed the previous river before us, is here as well. At the time we arrive they seemed to have figured it out and tell us their approach. Again, we wait and see. Because the entry to the riverbed was too deep and the current too strong, he drove off a bit upstream to find better ground. There he crossed the first streams for riverbank to riverbank. One section in particular didn’t really look that convincing to me. His car sank deeper in the river than he anticipated and therefore we go and have another look at that section. After a couple of minutes we decide to try a similar approach. Fortunately, with success! Just as we reach the other side another car arrives at the crossing. A shame they couldn’t see how we made it across.

With the river crossings behind us we can somewhat relax for the rest of today’s trip. Towards the end there are some minor flooded areas of the road where we would have stopped yesterday or the day before. In comparison to what we did today we don’t even bother configuring the car and just drive straight through. Funny how our driving style changed already so much compared to the last few days or certainly on our very first gravel road. A few days back we drove at max. 40 km/h on these roads, now we are more confident and if the conditions allow, we can speed it up to 70 or 80 km/h. Things you wouldn’t consider in Belgium on a gravel road.

Towards the end of the Sprengisandur we arrive at the first stop of the day: Aldeyjarfoss. A waterfall that is also surrounded with basalt columns, but unlike the Svartifoss we saw earlier these ones aren’t black. The powerful waterfall lies in a beige, brown landscape in the evening sun. There aren’t many tourists as this is a more inaccessible area to get. We take our pictures and drive further north to meet the ring road again.

We feel the end of our shaky trip is coming to an end as the roads gradually improve. From loose rocks to smaller rocks and sand. Until we finally meet an ordinary gravel road where we advance way faster compared to the last couple of hours. Where the gravel road ends, and we meet the ring road, there’s another famous stop: Goðafoss or waterfall of the gods. The sun is almost setting and in the last light of the day we discover this wonderful waterfall. The sun is directly above the waterfall, making pictures hard. But the evening light gives great reflections on the water!

Glad that we’ve made it across this highland route in one piece we continue our road to Mývatn. We quickly check-in and are immediately welcomed by Mývatn most (in)famous trait: midgets. Unlike their Scottish counterparts, these luckily don’t bite, but they are extremely annoying. They love to investigate your eyes, ears and nose. Having dropped off our bags we jump back in the car to see the sunset at Mývatn Nature Baths. A famous wellness like the Blue Lagoon in the Reykjavik area. On the way to the Nature Baths, we notice a not disturbing weird noise when making end range turns to the right. Not really worried we ignore it and drive on. Must be some dust that gathered somewhere under the car.

During our stay in Iceland we wanted to experience bathing in a natural bath, but not the touristic Blue Lagoon. We enjoy our time in the baths and the unique experience, but it remains very touristic and actually rather pricey (€70 for two).
After our relaxing time we go back to the hotel and have dinner. Funny, on the way back the weird noise is also present when taking sharp left hand turns. At the hotel they have an extensive pizza menu, and we decide to take two pizzas. I think this was the cheesiest pizza I’ve ever eaten!

Tomorrow we’ll discover the whole area of Mývatn where there is plenty to see. Another busy day ahead of us, but afterwards things seem to ease down a bit.Read more