A 9-day adventure by tim Read more
  • tim marsho

List of countries

  • Denmark Denmark
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Around the world, City trip, Family, Sightseeing, Vacation
  • 82miles traveled
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  • 8footprints
  • 9days
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  • Hygge... Not Hygge

    Mar 22–23 in Denmark ⋅ 🌬 48 °F

    Welcome to our next family adventure. The infamous "last spring Break as a Family of five". While Josie preferred to be surprised, enough hints had her pretty sure we were headed to Copenhagen- "I can't COPE with you not knowing", "a country Millie and I couldn't find on a map", "costal town with cute shops", "temps in the 40s".

    Saturday started with some last minute packing for some of us (🖐️). We tried to follow the 5-4-3-2-1 rules. Five underwear, four tops, three bottoms, two shoes, one accessory (jacket). I've never seen a personal item as full as Josie's backpack- five large books! As we dropped off Ace 🐶 at daycare the tire light was on. Time will tell if this is an omen of adventures to come, a wonky tire that's been acting up, or just the hot/cold bipolar WI weather affecting the pressure.

    After arriving at ORD, the kids ventured off for the EPIC triple dipper at Chili's. It did not disappoint. The first or final fried food of the trip? Millie tried to take advantage of our early arrival and swiftly move through security by taking a nap with both travel pillows. Unfortunately, one ended up left behind at the B48 terminal- we will grab it on the way back. The flight to Newark was easy. We had a short time there before boarding our monstrous British Airways mega plane. The best quotes of the trip always belong to Millie. Walking through 1st class- "Holy fancy bro, what is this?" Everyone tried to catch some Zs on the flight but... it was not exactly the hygge of 1st class.

    General travel/airport frustrations- shoes on or off? Belts on or off? Electronics in or out? Come forward as an individual with passport and boarding pass or group? Boarding pass or passport, too? MAKE UP YOUR MINDS TSA!

    Josie's water bottle in the mega-carry prompted a flag at security. She was escorted out of security to dump it out. While grabbing her boarding pass, she tore it slightly right at the bar code. A less than helpful agent encouraged her to head back to ticketing for a new one- while we all waited post-security?!? Thankfully, one of the TSA agents overheard her desperate call to Noel and intervened. In the end, carryons were checked and officially, Josie was now aware of the final destination.

    Depending who you ask, we missed our flight between London Heathrow and Copenhagen because we were too putzy or we made a wrong turn- out and back in across terminals and shuttles and long walks. While there were hiccups, "never forget the helpful people"- Fred Rodgers. A kind agent for British Airways- didn't even get his name 🤦‍♂️ - found us a flight less than an hour later and we were barely even delayed.

    Planes, trains, elevators, escalators, trams, shuttles, plenty of steps and missteps, but alas, we've arrived.
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  • Jet lag? Just gotta push through

    March 23 in Denmark ⋅ 🌬 48 °F

    Day one and everyone is already fitting into our travel roles.
    Josie- leader, walk with a purpose, look like you fit in ("you all look painfully American")
    Noel- expert researcher with all of the ideas but "I just need a paper map to plot everything out"
    Emmit- navigates a city through eating
    Millie- nearly nonstop commentary while her legs are literally about to fall off
    Tim- typically my phone is the only one that works. Navigates 100% the right way, 50% of the time

    First impressions of Copenhagen:
    E: quaint
    M: Paris but better
    N: stylish
    J: tall
    T: bikes

    Our apartment was upgraded to a spacious three bedroom- hygge. On the fourth floor without an elevator- not hygge.

    The weather was sunny and warm but very windy. A kind gentleman helped us find the right metro train to get to our apartment. Yay for helpful people! Dragging our carryons along the cobblestone roads was made worse when I took a slightly longer route.

    We checked out the closest landmark to us- The Round Tower. Some picturesque views of the city from the top. Outside, a quick lunch snack- hot dogs! Sometimes food tastes great because you are so hungry. We were, but they were legit delicious.

    We explored a little and came back to grab some groceries for snacks. Clearly Americans when we couldn't get the self checkout to work. Everyone was exhausted from our previous day of travel and intentions of watching a movie quickly turned to early bed.
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  • Support for the local economy

    March 24 in Denmark ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

    I mentioned we are staying near the Round Tower which is adjacent to a church.
    Central location next door to the Round Tower... hygge
    The bells of the round tower ringing 217 times- ish to awaken us at 8am... not hygge.

    The day started with a canal tour of the city- a great way to get your bearings. A little detour on our way to the pickup spot meant hungry bellies. A solid tour highlighting some attractions that we will check out in the coming days.

    We all enjoyed BUKA Bakery for breakfast- loaded croissants and a chai latte. Emmit couldn't resist some take-away Chinese from a stand next door.

    Off to shop. Josie and Emmit were both giddy to be confused with locals as we shopped through several known and new stores. Totally starting to fit in.

    We returned to the canal area- Ny Havn- for some golden hour photos.

    Union Kitchen hosted us for dinner. Fancy drinks and tapas style food. Millie may have enjoyed my IPA a little too much.

    Movie night- everyone actually stayed awake this time.
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  • Scenes and scents

    March 25 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    We started our day with a light drizzle as we ventured through nearby King's Garden- not hygge. A lovely space reminiscent of gardens we had seen last year in Paris and London. However, given the late winter season, this one was like checking out a fixer-upper house- "imagine what this looks like in full bloom!" Still, a very calming space.

    Next we toured Rosenberg Castle, previous home to a bunch of King Fredericks and King Christians. Also, the Crown Jewels. Despite the insistence of Josie and Emmit, I still don't believe that the full wall tapestries aren't just painted. What stood out among the relics was a prank chair, the "wetting chair", that surprised unexpected guests with a gush of water.

    We grabbed lunch in the large central food hall- Torvehallerne. With an overwhelming abundance of options, we settled on empanadas as well as some of the local flare. Smørrebrød is an open faced sandwich on a thin piece of rye topped with meats, cheeses, or spreads. We had egg salad, chicken salad and caesar- hygge. Couldn't get anyone to try the traditional pickled herring- not hygge.

    We finished the day with more shopping- Magasin du Nord- think Nordstrom but on steroids. The girls were particularly excited about the Ole Henriksen lip balm while Emmit learned about summer and winter scents. Noel struggled deciding whether to purchase one of the "pieces"- a leopard print jacket- at the Ganni store next door. Very hygge.

    Feet and legs tired, we headed to our home for a light dinner.
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  • Look at that statue, isn't it neat?

    March 26 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    We started the day with a calm walk through the Botanical Garden. Quiet paths lined with plants on the verge of springing into life.

    On our walk to the next destination we stopped at a quirky coffee shop, Mormors, for some sweets and sandwiches. Next a walk to Frederick's Church, also known as the Marble Church. The eye catching domes ceiling was stunning. Nearby, we toured Amailborg, four identical buildings that among other things, house the current Royal Family. We timed our visit well to take in the changing of the guard. Do you get a bigger hat as you move up in rank?

    We were told to have low expectations for the famous, Little Mermaid statue. Hans Christian Anderson's fairy tale proved inspiration for this statue along the water. Look at that statue, isn't it neat?

    We circled back taking a bit of a detour that led us through a new neighborhood including a giant windmill. The Danish seem to really appreciate green spaces and walking. Surprising to me given the climate.

    A short Metro ride brought us to Tivoli. It is a multi block amusement park smack in the city. Opens in April... not hygge. Thankfully the Glyptoteket Museum- literally place for sculptures- was next door and the last Wednesday of the month is free... hygge. But the modern French impressionist exhibition- boasting works of VanGogh, Gaugin, and Manet- was closed- not hygge.

    We stopped at Anarkist Pizza for a quick bite- flight of beer for the grown ups and currant soda for the kids. Bussin' salt and vinegar chips were a hit. Oh, and the stone fired pizza was pretty good.

    A return to our neighborhood for more shopping- yum chocolates and then a late dinner, Gasoline Grill (or is it gaslight or gas station- the most American name proved most difficult for Noel to recall). Burgers and fries hit the spot.
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  • Towers and Trolls

    March 27 in Denmark ⋅ 🌬 52 °F

    LOTR day?!?

    Thursday morning was one of our scheduled activity times- Forest Tower at Camp Adventure and then Giant Troll Hunt. It was going to be an outdoor day and the weather was predicted to be our warmest of the week. We took a cozy shuttle bus- yeah WI-FI- along with 15 or so others. During the summer season, Camp Adventure is known for its team building facilities- including a ropes course, zip lining, and glamping. To reach the tower base, a scenic 1km walk through the woods. Emmit work on his bird calls. To no surprise, as we reached the tower base we were met with a spiral walkway up to the top. 12 full rotations to a height of 45km- the highest tower in Scandinavia. I couldn't help but think of my childhood growing up climbing Parnell Tower, but this was so much better.

    Truth be told, Noel has been a fan of Thomas Dambo's giant trolls long before the plan was announced to have one of his trolls built in Wauwatosa. She was under the impression this was a six trolls only tour- no mention of long hike to and up the tower... and also no mention we were going to see only two of them. Also, it was cloudy and windy... not hygge.

    After our tour we did a quick walk around the Vesterbro neighborhood, best known for its vintage stores. We went to the top of Christianborg Palace- former Royals home- for some 360 degree views of Copenhagen. On the small elevator to the top- fits the I gut- out five and a couple with their daughter squeezed in. The other mom stated good thing you guys don't have another child to which Emmit quickly responded... "Kevin?!?"

    The dinner plan was to find spicy chicken sandwiches at Poulette. Once again, Noel was ahead of the game (and The Bear) with this one. The walk was longer than expected and to our disappointment, Apple Maps hadn't updated that Poulette was no longer part of Broens Gadekøkken (food park). We found some delicious other options, notably Josie getting some duck fat fries. No way we were going to pass up a photo booth- funny faces.

    More night photos at Ny Havn... oh so very hygge with the lights and boats.

    At the suggestion of Vinod, our shuttle bus driver, we watched the Scandavian film-Trolls- think King Kong but an ancient giant troll comes to life. It was better than expected.
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  • Checking off the list

    March 28 in Denmark ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

    Another slow wake up, not many of those left. Noel was left disappointed with her morning chai latte but food highlights continue to be the scrumptious pastries.

    We tackled Nørrebro, a neighborhood known for eclectic shopping. There also seemed to be a large middle eastern population. Described as the best street in Copenhagen, Jægersbogade was lined with a mix of creative shops- a makers market of sorts. Prints, jewelry, resale, vintage, small batch brews, even a hat maker.

    We found the real Poulette for lunch. Made famous in the hit tv show The Bear, it featured a small menu with big spice and taste. Most were not super impressed but I thought it was great.

    We made our way to Christhavn to attempt the famous Good Savior Church spiral tour but detoured given a long line and Josie's knee acting up. Instead we headed to the Danish Design Museum. Very inspiring look at the history of design with a large exhibit featuring chair design. Plenty of interactive exhibits even Millie our museum malcontent enjoyed the visit.

    Josie insisted we find a traditional Danish restaurant. We passed on the liver patte and herring but did have more smørrebrød- mushroom and salted beetroot. The girls had the "best potatoes of their life"- a claim that left Noel and I quite confused. It took a while to get our check but we kept busy with Josie leading the rest of us reluctantly through some games of twenty questions- so it's a D list person who has been dead for over a hundred years? (Answer: Charles Darwin)
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  • View from the courtyard of our apartment
    Dude, that backpack!The giggler

    Every last drop

    Mar 29–30 in Denmark ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    What's left? We woke and packed/emptied the fridge in preparation for our midday flight from Copenhagen. We chased after some last minute deals at a few shops. Noel and the kids spent 20 minutes talking with a Danish publisher at the bookstore down the block who quizzed them on their thoughts of all things US. Noel and I walked through Trinity Church across from our apartment while Josie finally purchased the sweater she had been eyeing up since day 1. Unfortunately, Millie's "duzz"- (Danish Huzz) remained just a dream. We easily made it to Copenhagen Airport and a much better route through London Heathrow. We even had time for a dinner! Great Grandma Mary style for the long ride across the Atlantic (first row of the back section). Unwanted/needed leg room at the cost of no below the seat storage and limited above the seat compartment space for our carry-ons. Not hygge. It was a quick taxi to our NY hotel. A few Zzzs and we were right back to JFK. By this point, our sixth flight in just over a week, we were well prepared for our final trip through security.

    Final Copenhagen thoughts:
    T- style (very little clothes with words), bikes, spiral stairs
    N- Clean and environmentally aware. Soooo many bikes and no helmets. Walkable and cute neighborhoods.
    J- colorful
    E- quaint, village, Viking
    M- duzz-y

    For next time:
    - sports, music, or other culture event
    - sauna
    - CopenHill
    - herring
    - Hamlet Castle
    - bikes
    - Segway tour
    - goboat
    - picnic in a park/garden
    - other parts of Denmark
    - day trip to Sweeden- Malmo?
    - Michelin star restaurant
    - tivoli amusement park (open April- October?)
    - all six OG trolls
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