Chilean fjords

Sailing through the Chilean fjords yesterday on a rainy, misty day reminds us of scenes from Lord of the Rings. The Alps are obscured by low cloud but the hills on the edge of the fjord was have a strangely compelling look. The rolling foothills are covered with shrubby trees and little else. Rock faces rise straight from the water or form small islands dotted along the way.

The Captain informs us that this is a tricky transit. In spots the channel is not deep, in other parts not wide. We have two pilots on board to assist the captain. (The pilots are local experts who know the fjords and their tricky parts, well).

We entered the fjords from the Straits of Magellen. The Andes are to our right (as we go north) and extend well into Columbia. This far south, there are two spines of mountains formed eons ago through volcanic activity (the Andes and Nazca plates) and glaciation. The professor on board tells us that the Andes rise 2000 ft. above the water line and 2000 ft. below the water line. They are considered immature mountains which mean they are still adding about 100 ft. each year. Between the spines is a broad plain. In Peru, this is where Machu Pichu and Lake Titicaca are situated. Brian and I had the adventure of visiting them both a few years ago and it is interesting now to learn their geologic history. (Lake Titicaca is the highest lake in the world at 12,000 ft. above sea level).

We sail through the Shoal Narrows and see the Leonore shipwreck and then sail through the Grey Narrows. Other than a few birds and a small pod of dolphins, we do not see any wildlife in this bleak environment. The ultimate destination today is the Skua glacier (sometimes called the Amalia glacier). Unfortunately there is a light (cold) rain when we get to the glacier face so the view and our pictures are disappointing. Even Kathleen's good camera found the low grey skies, grey rain, grey water and white glacier a challenge to figure out.

One of our Canadian in-jokes is the people who expected the cruse to get warmer as we headed south. We see people every day in shorts, t-shirts and flip-flops as we walk by in our toques and gloves. Who knows what they are thinking now that we are headed north! It continues to be in the mid-40s F. or 9 C. and is very windy.

Today is a sea day getting us in position to visit the glacier at Laguna San Rafael on Wednesday. More bridge time (Trodds), walking (Bonnie and Kathleen), gym time (Peter, Brian and I) and of course, eating...the main cruise activity Bonnie added line dancing today and we will all show up for our daily humiliation at Team Trivial Pursuit.Read more