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  • Day 6

    Greenwich Happy Time

    September 1, 2022 in England ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today was our last day with Graham and Jo before they head off on their own adventure to Oxford and the coast for a few weeks before heading off to Spain. Although we are still jet-lagged, (yes, a 24 hour journey will do that to you) and therefore dog tired and still achy all over, we wanted this day to be special for all four of us, so we pushed on.

    Chris and I caught the river clipper to Greenwich. A lovely journey in a high-speed ferry that zig zags back and forth over the Thames to dock at piers on both sides of the river to pick up passengers. A few stops down the river, we picked up Graham and Jo and we enjoyed the view of the city the river affords.

    Greenwich is steeped in history. They have the Cutty Sark there, which we decided not go on this time, the Royal Observatory, the old Naval College, the old Seaman's Hospital, the Painted Hall, the Hospital Chapel and various maritime offices and sqaures and forecourts, all adorned in gigantic columns and declaring that the might of the British Empire was the might of the British Navy. There can be no question about it. The Empire was Naval down to its DNA. And the buildings here in Greenwich attest to that.

    But first, coffee. Cafe Rouge did the trick and we were ready for the day.

    The Observatory was fun. We all got to stand on the Greenwich Meridian. As the equator divides the world into northern and southern hemispheres, the Greenwich Meridian divides the world in to East and West. If you stand astride it, one leg will be in the East and the other will be in the West. Some incredible history at the Observatory around Halley and telescopes, and measurements and inventions. The building itself was part designed by Christopher Wren and opened in 1676. The views over the city of London are wonderful, even on a cloudy day.

    A short walk down the hill had us heading past the old Naval College, now a Maritime Museum (to be investigted on a future trip) to the old Hospital, Chapel and Painted Hall. You've gotta see this architecture to believe it. It just screams Naval might, power, majesty and invincibility. Columned corridors and squares all over, the two domes staring at each other as if to dare who could outshine the most.

    The Chapel is beautiful. Sick seafarers were supposed to go to services there every day. Its ceiling is understated in its beauty. The remarkable painting of St Paul shipwrecked on the Isle of Malta adorns the front panel and a beautiful pipe organ the back.

    The Painted Hall is a Sistine Chapel kind of thing. Its vast ceiling is painted to show off the glory and values of the King and Queen William and Mary. Trompe l'oeil is used to incredible effect to fake 3D throughout. It is very busy, very symbolic (we did a 30 minute tour to have it all explained) and very beautful. It was originally used as dining room. Now that's a fancy diner!

    All of us tired to the bone, we left Greenwich the richer for our visit and caught the train back to St Katherine's Docks (Graham and Jo's digs), there to enter the Dickens Inn for a late lunch early dinner pub meal and a good sit down. Apparently, it is owned by Dickens' grandson. Back at their apartment, another coffee and sad farewells, although we will keep in touch by social media, we will not see them again until their return to Australia in November.

    A wonderful way to spend the day and a very special time to share with family the fascination and fun of London.
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