A Cathedral, A Palazzo and A Museum

Today’s Penguins finds us a little better rested but still tired due to the all-encompassing heat that surrounds and eats you whenever you step outside of an air-conditioned zone.

Last night’s rain did cool things down somewhat, and today has been cloudy and overcast, as though it wants to rain again, and it may well do, but this small respite in the weather has been a godsend to us, not to mention to the good people of Bologna. We slept last night for the first time without the air-conditioner switched on. This is a big deal because the air-conditioner is huge, bulky and sounds like a freight train in the bedroom. Chris, more than me, finds it difficult to sleep with. Combined with the hot evenings, we have not slept well since we arrived in Bologna accounting for our lower energies during the day.

After breakfast at L’Incontro, we headed to our first stop in our continuing plan to see the sights of the city. First stop, the Cathedral of San Pietro, not to be confused with the Basilica of San Pietrono that we visited with Maurella on our tour.

The Cathedral is the mother church of the Diocese. It is very large and high with vaulted ceilings, three naves, a central and two aisles, a sanctuary raised up high, and many side chapels. The original building goes back to the 4th century, but that was destroyed by fired and rebuilt several times over the centuries. The present building is of mid 17th century origin. It has the famous red brick that we see so often in Bolognese buildings. Four vast columns lift the sanctuary area and the painted ceiling over that part of the church is ornate. There is a large baldacino over the main altar that would not look out of place in St Peters in Rome. The lighting on the sides of the naves are in the shape of trees and their leaves and there are balconies overhead in some places.

It has a dark feel but quiet and reflective. One or two were at prayer. I noticed a priest sitting all alone in his confessional waiting for one of the faithful to come along and confess. I enjoyed seeing this cathedral, although I must say it did not arrest me particularly architecturally, spiritually or emotionally. The two gorgeous large lions in red marble, from one of the earlier iterations of the church, are placed either side of the entrance exit doors and are a real delight. I'd love to take one home.

Next, we made our way across the street and bought our entrance tickets to Palazzo Fava. Apparently, the Fava family came into possession of the building in 1546, but the building is much older. Nowadays, it is owned by a bank and houses the gallery that conserves and shows the 16th century frescoes painted on the walls of six rooms. The frescoes, painted by the Carracchi boys, depict scenes from mythology including stories about Jason, Europa and from the Aeneid. They are really incredible. Although the colour in many has softened over time, they are all still here, crystal clear and wonderful to see.

Finally, we took a tour of the Museo Civico Medievale housed in the 15th century Palazzo Ghisilardi. It is next door to the Fava Palace and indeed the Favas eventually acquired the building. This museum, as its name suggests, houses a unique collection of odds an ends from the medieval world including funerary objects, ornaments and jewellery, armour and weapons and objet d’art. It is a formidable collection and quite large. I think it has over twenty rooms.

By the time we had seen the twenty rooms and given them the attention they deserved, we had had enough, and headed out to a bar for a panino and a beer, followed by a coffee. Our bar proprietor was quite the character, a large, talkative, friendly salt of the earth type, and I suspect we’ll go back there.

Home for a rest and a good lie down. And a haircut for me at 5pm. Not quite the Barber of Seville, but the Barber of Bologna will have to do. I feel I should be playing Rossini as I walk in the door.
My barber's shortened name was Ford. He cut my hair, shaved me, plucked my eyebrows and trimmed my moustache. He spoke English really well and we had a great conversation while he worked, with a smattering of Italian from me thrown in at regular intervals. Apperitivo at L'Incontro where Manuel looks after us each night and then home for dinner on a cool faintly rainy evening. A lovely relaxed day.Read more