• Another Trip Comes To An End

      3月6日, アメリカ ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

      This is the final post for my San Francisco Seattle trip to the USA. I woke this morning in our Seattle apartment, had a leisurely brekky and we packed our suitcases which of course now have to carry the extras that we've purchased while here. Sensibly, and as somewhat seasoned travellers, we spread them over our two bags to even out the weight and not violate the restrictions that would incur a fee.

      We had a very smooth ride out to the airport and sat in one of those fancy eateries that charge like wounded bulls to eat some chips and drink a beer. It was nice, and I must say, the view out over the tarmac through the curved windows was spectacular.

      ``Our flight was uneventful, which is the way you want them. I read another chapter of my novel, Migrations by Charlotte Conaghy, while Chris listened to music. I took some pics of Puget Sound from the air which just looked like a postcard. Stunningly beautiful. And a few pics too of Mt Rainier in its snow-covered glory. A shame we never got out there to see it in the flesh. But them's the breaks with holiday sickness. You have go with the flow, adjust, and make the best.

      Coming into San Fran was special. You get a great view of the city surrounded by the mountains. We have a six hour hour lay over here and fly out tonight at 11pm, having arrived 4.20pm. It's all good though. We've had dinner, I have done some more DuoLingo and we've just now come for a walk and are sitting back with a beer and a wine while I write this 'last post'.

      Despite the interposition of illness, which I'm still not fully recovered from, I have enjoyed this holiday. Both cities have their own magic, their own sensibility, their own way of getting in. San Fran is adorable in so many ways, but it was my third visit to the city by the bay, and I feel a certain familiarity with it. Seeing it with Chris for our second go has been special. It can bring delight so quickly.

      Seattle has been an eye-opener. It's like there are two Seattles, one by day, and one by night. The one by day seems deserted except for tourists like us and the odd local going about their business. But by night, the neon signs are illuminated, the cafes and restaurants fill up and there is life and energy here. It's quite lovely and has a great feel.

      Our visit to the US has coincided with the beginning weeks of the Trump presidency. There is no getting away from it. I am still processing it all, like so many others. I have always felt the man was fake, that the little show he put on at his rallies with all the usual greatest hits is performative. I think he prefers rallies to governing. They stroke his ego more.

      I don't really think Trump stands for much at all other than fueling his planet-sized ego. I suspect he's quite malleable. His treatment of friends and allies has been appalling. I watched in dismay his treatment of President Zelensky in the Oval Office with he and his little attack terrier Vance set upon him to humiliate him in front of the world. I think that backfired. As one of my brothers might say, "he shit in his own nest".

      Having read The Forever War by Nick Bryant, and bought another similar tome here to read when I get back home, I am convinced that America is broken, broken to its DNA, its origin story no less traumatic and obscene than our own. The US has a long way to go to heal the wounds of its inherent racism, its greed, its capitalistic democracy, and its acceptance of the poverty/wealth divide as being normal. I see such beauty here as you will see in some of the pics, such incredible potential in the brains trust America has been given, yet their politics is broken, they do not know how to govern themselves nor how to foster a just and equitable society.

      I have a renewed appreciation for my own country Australia. I said it before in an earlier post, but I am convinced along with Paul Keating that we have created a better society than America's. And ours needs work! America's is on life support. Life and values are similar but different in Australia. I would say now after three weeks back here, better. I can't not think it.

      Chris and I have a big year before us. We are both optimistic and come what may, we'll continue to face life together just as we have for the last twenty-five years, holding each other up, being there for each other. So to the United States, it's good night, good bye and good luck.
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    • SAM I AM

      3月3日, アメリカ ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      Well, I'm not sure about green eggs and ham, but I do like Sam, yes Sam I am up for it. Yesterday, we did a tour of the Seattle Art Museum, or SAM. It is big and feels capacious with lowith lofty ceilings and has a lovely heterogenereity to it. Not specialising in antiquities, or renaissance art, or glassware or impressionists. But it has all those things.

      A gentle stroll though the galleries with no-one looking over your shoulder while you read the legend about each piece. People about, but not too many. I was taken by a painting called Blessing Christ by Andrea Previtali 1517 which for all its centuries-old age has a modern looking guy who's about to say "dude". I think Christ would have been cool with that 😃

      Home in the afternoon for some downtime. We ate in last night and watched a movie and read our stuff on our phones before an early night around ten. My symptoms have now morphed essentially into a cough, a productive one at that. It is unpleasant and tiring but I remain of good cheer. But somehow, I know not the mechanism, I have managed to sleep both the last two nights without keeping us both awake all night. It does make a difference.

      Today, we went shopping. We bought some nice reasonably priced up-market gear in Zara and both felt happy with our purchases. Home again this afternoon for more downtime. Trying to give my body the rest it requires to get on top of this bug.

      I have been following assiduously world affairs, reading everything I can to stay abreast of what is happening here in America, the world, and at home. The streets of the two American cities which we've visited this time display the obvious chasm between great wealth and great poverty. You only have to walk out your front door. For such a smart and wealthy nation, America has gone wrong somewhere. Its historic exceptionalism has now devolved into being exceptionally broken. I suspect that it was from the beginning and the inequity and the inequality has just grown exponentially.

      Under the econd Trump administration, the US seems to have gone into some kind of existential spasm where the foundations of its democracy are being undermined daily and it doesn't know whether to try to ride it it out or intubate itself lest it become fatal.

      It's a concern and at this point, I have to say I will happy to leave this strange place and return home, which, with all its problems, is a better life by far.

      Tonight, cocktails at Hatch Cantina and dinner at La Via è Bella. Yum, home- cooked Italian in a cool place. Downstairs in fact and next door 😃
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    • Of Fogs and Ferries and Fries

      3月1日, アメリカ ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      Today, after a good night's sleep for a change, we woke with a little more energy. Our plan was to walk down to the ferry terminal and take one of the Washington State ferries across Puget Sound to Bainbridge Island. We did do this, but we woke to the city thickly shrouded in a heavy fog, the clouds deciding that that they didn't want to be up there, they wanted to be down with us.

      The ferry terminal is large and purpose built. We waited inside with a couple of hundred others to board once the passengers, bikes and cars had disembarked from the previous vogage back over from the Island.

      We boarded the MV Puyallup, a 460 feet Jumbo Class vessel built right here in Seattle. It has multiple decks and can carry 2500 passengers and 202 cars, so it's not little in any way.

      The entire ship was covered in fog as was the terminal as was Puget Sound. As we set off, we headed outside to stand against the bracing winds. And bracing they were. It was fffffreeezing standing directly in the wind so we didn't do that for too long understandably. The crossing was as smooth as silk, punctuated only by the vessel's stupendoulsy loud foghorn which was sounded at regular intervals over the whole crossing. As we neared the destination, we could hear the horn echo back to us.

      It was other-worldly and felt surreal for both of us. Visibility on the way over was mere metres. And there were other eqaully large ferries and almost as large crusie vessels, not to mention any cargo ships that might happen to be entering the port; not that you'd see them.

      I was reminded of the extraordinary feats of nautical derring-do that I read about in David Grann's book The Wager which gave me fresh admiration for sailing skills of yesteryear in challenging waters. I assumed today's radar was up to the task. I won't forget today's crosssing. It was very special.

      The little island of Bainbridge hosts tourists coming off the ferries all day long. There was plenty of accommodation there, but most of the folk I think were day-trippers like us. We found a nice cafe and actually enjoyed a decent latte for a change.

      We then took a comfortable stroll around the waterfront on timber walkways in and around and through the various marinas. That was nice. The marinas at home are all locked up and the public can't really walk them. Not so here. It was a lovely feeling to be out and about on the water on a freezing day looking at the mountains, the hills, the island architecture, the boats, and occasionally tinly little glimpses of the tops of skyscrapers poking out of the fog back in Seattle across the water.

      All this wandering left us thirsty so we found a nice little diner/bar/pub perched on the side of a hill overlooking the whole wonderful vista where we had a beer and a plate of fries served in a rectangular metal 'bowl'. Cute huh. A bit of check-in with each other here too was a good thing.

      Back to the ferry terminal just in time to catch a departing ferry, the same one we came over on. Only this time, there was some blue sky and we got to see the majesty of Mt Rainier overlooking the city as well as the city scape itself, which looked pretty amazing. A nice day indeed.
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    • Museum of Popular Culture and Last Day

      3月1日, アメリカ ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      Yesterday 4 March, Chris and I took a trip to MoPOP, the Seattle Museum of Popular Culture. To our surprise, we discovered it was a Frank Gehry building with lots of twists and turns and curves just like the Bilbao Guggenheim. A lovely thing to behold form the outside, and the inside, varied and interesting.

      The tours were all fun and I found them nostalgic too. I especailly liked the Fantasy and Sci Fi exhibitions and seeing costumes and props from famous shows that I grew up with.

      After so long standing looking at the exhibitions, we were ready to sit down in the bar for a bite and a prosecco for him, a cherry cider for me and charcuterie board of meats and cheeses with a warmed yummy pretzel. That's a bread stick drawn into various shapes, not one of those Aussie cracker things we call pretzels. Delish!!

      Some rain after we left and had a coffee in a nearby garage/cafe and a walk home since we had our umbrellas and it wasn't too heavy. Relaxation followed at home with leftover pasta from our night out before, and we finished a movie.

      Today, 5 March is our last day in the States if you don't count tomorrow's travelling day. We walked back down in the warm sunshine to the Seattle ferries and caught one back out to Bainbridge Island, this time on a nice sunny crossing, the water as smooth as glass. A trot around the main street, some touristy purchases in one of the gift shops, and a leisurely ride back over the Sound to home and a relax. We'll head for a drink before dinner, and then we'll kickk back for the evening.
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    • Seattle Aquarium

      2月28日, アメリカ ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

      It's been along time since I have been to an aquarium. There was one in San Fran which we hesitated over, but this one on the Sound at Seattle is refurbished and has been added onto with a shiny new building hosting extraordinary architecture that complements the curves and sinews of the ocean and all things marine. We had to go.

      Despite my health, we plunged into the marine world of the aquarium with vigour and interest. We spend a lot of time at the ocean so we have an affinity for this type of thing.

      Lovely exhibits, the pics of which did not really come out all that well, what with moving fields of vision, it ain't easy. Your seal is just there one second and the next he's gone. There's that cute otter looking right at you adorably, you prepare the shot, and he's gone.

      The staff were all busy looking after thier charges. I enjoyed the tactile experience upon entry where you wash your hands and you get to touch with one finger all the anemones and spiky sea urchins. The former were so soft, softer than velvet. And the latter's spines gather around your finger to encircle it.

      On one of the outdoor walkways between buildings I took some pics of a giant carrier ship emerging from the clouds that had descended in front of the Cascade mountains across the Sound. It looked like a ghost ship.

      After almost two hours, I was done. Today was my first day after a straight seven of mbeing medicated, without pseudoephedrine to keep me dry. So, I was couging a lot as my body turned back to do what it normally does when you are viral: have nasal congestion, a runny nose and you cough a lot. Still, I had to go through today to give everything a break from the drugs and can re-start the pseudoephedrine again tomorrow.

      We had another quick walk though PIke Markets on the way home and stopped at a cafe for a coffee. I say coffee, but honest to God, getting a decent coffee in this country is well nigh impossible. I sipped four times and threw it in the bin.

      We relaxed this afternooon, took a nap and went out for dinner tonight to The Black Bottle where we feasted on some share plates and some beer, looked after by a cute and very frriendly waiter from Venezuela.

      I didn't want to talk about the orange one in these posts, but today, Trump and that creep Vance ganged up on President Zelensky in the Oval Office in front of the cameras, mocked him and shouted him down before ensuring he left the White House. Americans are in shock and declaring embarrassment. Trump only ever wants a winning hand and he doesn't like to play unless he's got one. But I feel sure, if he hasn't already, he will overplay his hand one day and be done over. Can't come soon enough. Today was another disgrace from this soulless narcissist.

      But I did like the otters and the puffins.
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    • Sleepless in Seattle

      2月27日, アメリカ ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      It's been a few days since I posted a FP. That's because I have been very unwell. The lurgy that Chris had, I caught, and it has knocked me for six. I don't know if it is COVID 19 or not, but it certainly is a breathing type virus. I have struggled, as did Chris, in this regard, each breath an effort. Fevers, a chest cough, post nasal drip, muscle aches, tiredness and sleeplessness due to constant overheating and sweats. Hence the title of my piece. And a new understanding that illness, if it is significant enough, can interrupt the flow of an exciting voyage substantially.

      We flew here on Monday just as my version of the virus was really taking hold. It's never fun to fly when sick. Thank goodness it was only a two hour flight.

      Our apartment here is beautiful. It could not be more different than our little dog box of a thing in San Fran and it was just what we needed; some space to move around, space to be in different rooms, more than one chair to sit in, a table to eat at. I could go on.

      We are situated not far from the water, Puget Sound, a working port, just like our own back home, and thus having all the attendant infrastructure that goes with a working port. The Sound is very pretty. It has islands and on its far coast, is a mountain range called the Cascades.

      The city has been doing up the port this side for better public access and have spent a mozza on walkways, viewing platforms and grand architectural staircases. It's not finished, but it's a work in progress and shows what can be done around such ports and harbours.

      We took a walk around the famous Pike Place Market which I expected to be outdoors but which was indoors in long rambling halls. Not many people there. Not many people in the streets either, we've both noticed. Neither of us bought anything.

      We watched an episode, a first for Chris, of Columbo on tv last night. It really was very good and it brought back memories of Peter Falk's famous role. We've been eating in thus far.

      Today, we walked down to the Space Needle, Seattle's most famous landmark, and had a lovely time up top. Coffee, some wandering, and I even braved standing on the see-through glass revolving floor without too much consternation, although I held on to Chris grimly.

      We bought a few odds and ends in the gift shop at the bottom and headed into the Chihuly Garden and Glass Museum. I honestly did not know what to expect but I found myself enchanted by the colour, the shapes, the twists, the sheer imagination of this artist. It was stunning and I am so glad we bought a ticket. I have never seen glass like this before!

      We'll stay in again tonight to conserve energy and to help with healing. Chris is still not 100% and I am far from it. Sadly, we have been forced to miss our two organised and pre-paid events here: last night's performance of The Magic Flute by the Seattle Opera Company, and tomorrow's day trip to the snow-covered slopes of Mt Rainier which you can see in the pics. I am disappointed but even-minded about this turn of events. We still love each other and Chris is looking after me thoughfully. Life is good.
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    • Last Day in San Francisco

      2月24日, アメリカ ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

      Well, I never thought I would be saying this, but I can't wait to get the hell out of this town. It's not San Fran itself, it's more the co-incidents that have befallen us while here.

      We were somewhat stresed out before we came. But we thought the trip away would do us good. Trouble is the fourteen hour flight really took it out of us, and I am convinced that a man one row back from us and across the aisle, who sneezed big footballer sneezes several times without covering his mouth, without directing his projections into the crook of his elbow, was the culprit who gave us both the lurgy.

      First Chris. Five days to get through the worst of it. Poor man. Then me. I am on day 2 with my symptoms still getting worse before they get better. This is not a woe is me or a woe is us, it's just that it has sapped us of our energy and at times, our will to live.

      Added to that, I have to admit that the little shitbox of an apartment we stayed in was altogether unsuitable. There was no-where to sit. There was no table, one chair, the shower drained slowly, the toilet was next to the bedhead, so zero privacy. There was nothing homely about it, nothing comfortable, nothing at all that would sell it to a potential renter. I have learned my lesson.

      So, it was with an enervated heart that we set out on our last day. We dropped some washing off to Lily's. We love Lily. We then had a coffee at a doughnut shop. Good coffee for a change. The coffee here is generally shit. Clearly, I am past pulling my punches or feeling bad about indelicacy.

      We headed down into town, browsed a bookshop and ate a fancy fountain of fries and some meatballs at Old Joes. It was a lovely establishment. After that, given we were in the vicinity, we sauntered through the Palace of Fine Arts which was indeed relaxing.

      We went for a little passeggiata as the Italians would call it though LaFayette Park one more time, and on the night before we left, Chris discovered the decaf coffee I had been drinking all week was not in in fact instant, but filter coffee, which completely explained the large puddle of sludge at the bottom of my cup each evening. You live you learn. We've learned a thing or two about accommodation when travelling, lessons that will not be forgotten in a hurry.

      We head off to Seattle tomorrow with me getting sicker and both of us feeling challenged. San Fran is a beautiful city but sometimes you just gotta have all or some of the other bits go right too.
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    • A Slow Day to the Mission District

      2月23日, アメリカ ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Job said, "that which I feared came upon me" and sure enough, right on time, I have come down with almost certainly the same virus that Chris has been battling for a week. It's early days, but I have seen his symptoms and know what's ahead of me.

      Despite this setback, we decided to do one thing and not push ourselves. We set out with a view to looking at the Spanish church, Mission Dolores Basilica in the Mission District. The adobe chapel next to it was built in 1776 and is reputed to be the oldest building in San Francisco. The basilica was built in 1918 and designated a basilica in 1952. It has a grand exterior, one which I admired the last time I was in San Fran, but I didn't never venture inside on that occasion. Today was the day.

      The lighting is the first thing that strikes you. The lights are turned down low and dim. There is darker general feel to the church which is punctuated by bright orange and yellow stained glass windows. And turquoise ceilings down the side aisles. There is a cupola in the centre, also turquoise, and the sanctuary was not all rococo as I expected from Spanish architecture, but simple and restrained. The whole thing gave a sense of quiet and reflection. I liked it, a lot. The stained glass gave a warm feel to the interior despite the low lighting.

      We had a coffee in the Morning Dew cafe which was just lovely. The young girl did some lovely coffee art on my latte, but as she was passing it to me, she dropped a spoon in it, so there was laughter all round.

      After, we headed up to the park and sat briefly on damp grass to look at the young people just hanging and listen to a group of musos do thier thing. We caught the underground to the Embarcaderro with a view to sitting down with a beer, but on Sunday afternoon, beer there was none, so we hightailed it to the grocery store near our digs and went home, happy tp stop.

      My symptoms had come on stronger by bedtime, so not a great night for us. Tomorrow, we will relax.
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    • Art Galleries and Towers

      2月22日, アメリカ ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      This post will cover two days, yesterday 21 February and today, 22 February.

      Yesterday, Chris and I did a pilgrimage back to SF's justly famous Legion of Honor, its world-class art gallery, perched up on a hill with lovely views.

      We have been here before, back in 2018, and were greatly taken by its simplicity, its openness, its collection, and the special exhibition it was showing at the time, the Pre-Raphaelites.

      This time, we slowly made our way through all the galleries, about nineten of them, lingering here and there, enjoying the various periods and seeing the artwork of a particular time. The building itself is impressive. Its outer courtyard, which has Rodin's Le Penseur in pride of place, is surrounded by beautiful columns with a portico running around the perimeter. They are a light stone and are stunning to look at.

      Inside, I was taken with Arundel Mill by John Constable ca 1835 where you can see part of Arundel Castle in the background, a castle that Chris and I have visited back in 2022. The other artwork that impressed me was Monet's The Grand Canal Venice 1908. Hazy, faint, hot, beautiful. We'll get to visit it later this year. Banks of the Loing 1891 by Alfred Sisley also took my eye for its reflections of the trees in the water.

      A more expensive dinner last night than what we would ususally do, but we're on holiday and we felt like eating out. SPQR is a Michellin rated Italian restaurant. The food was mouth-wateringly delicious and the atmosphere sitting up at the bar in the dim lighting was a bit magical.

      Today, we visited Coit Tower. I have often lamented the fact that Newcastle doesn't have something to look at with a soupcon of awe and wonder. Alas. Coit Tower is a monument built specifically as a gift to the city by Lilly Hitchcock Coit after her death. Its in its nineties now and will be one hundred years old in 2033.

      There are beautiful murals painted on its walls on the ground, first and second floors showing life in California during the Depression. The tower itself is a thing of beauty. Despite its concrete manufacture, it is not brutalist in any way and its top has ornamentation and an open to the sky viewing platform that offers spectular 360 degree views of the city, bay and mountains. I'm so glad we took the time to visit.

      Macy's followed and we were frankly underwhelmed and bought nothing. Mason's Cafe offered us lunch in a diner atmosphere, and then, groceries and home to relax. It's been a good day, although Chris is still getting through his cold/virus affliction and has had to work harder than me to have these experiences. I am hopeful now that his symptoms have peaked and that he's on the mend. The weather has been glorious since we got here, apart from one rainy morning. San Fran is still feeling like it likes us.
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