Nuværende rejser
  • Stuart Edser

Stu & Chris America 2018

Our first trip to the States together. Læs mere
  • Sidst set 💤
    I dag

    Planes Trains and Automobiles

    1. oktober 2018, Australien ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Hawai'i is amazing. But even the amazing eventually must come to an end. Ah the impermanence of everything. The Buddhists would be proud. All packed up, Chris and I took the hotel shuttle to the Daniel K. Inouye International Airport for a 10.30 flight to Sydney. It's about ten hours in the air, so you know before you start that by the time you get to your destination, you are going to be a bit stiff and sore and probably somewhat dehydrated and generally not feeling your absolute best. The flight was unremarkable, as you want them to be. The food was good. I actually enjoyed the stir fried pork in rice and vegetables and the chardonnay I eased them down with.

    I watched a movie. I was too tired for anything cerebral, so I settled for a sci fi I had seen before, the Pacific Rim sequel, Pacific Rim Uprising. It was fun and the guy is hot and the monsters get defeated in the end, which is what you want and all about I could cope with after a month travelling. I listened to the Grieg and Schumann Piano Concertos, both in A Minor and tried to fall asleep whilst doing so. 'Tried' being the oeprative word there. Sleep alas eluded both of us for most of the flight. Finally, I also read. I had downloaded the Ursula LeGuin translation and commentary of the 6th century Chinese classic, The Tao Te Ching by Lao Tzu. This is a truly amazing work and one that is very challenging to those of us brought up in the West with our Western ideas of success and effort and money and power. I like these small poems, gobbets of profound wisdom that you have to suck like a lolly to start to unravel the layers inside.

    Travelling west is easier than travelling east. You follow the sun and even though you may be in the air for ten or more hours, you would still probably be up and doing things at your point of departure had you not left. Yes, it's all very confusing.

    We left at 10.30am Saturday, flew ten hours, crossed the date line, and landed at 4.30pm the following day. We had already decided that upon arriving in Sydney after such a long flight, we simply could not face a three hour train journey back to Newcastle in the world's slowest train. So we would stay in Sydney for the night and catch a morning train today back to Newcastle. Which we did. An excellent decision.

    We showered and headed back to Ruby's pub, the pub in Surry Hills we dined at the night before we left for the US, and had their 'jerk fries' again which are to die for. A nice bookend. Today, the train trip was slow as expected, but somewhat painful too in that although we chose the quiet carriage, a middle aged man and his friend talked conversationally the entire trip. In a carriage full of silent people, they sounded like they had megaphones. I listened to music, just my Daily Feed (Classical) on Spotify, and read, and eventually when their incessant chattering got to me, I tweeted about them and even wrote a twitter poem to help pass the time.

    We are home now. We were met by Chris' parents at the station who welcomed us in loving arms and took us home to barbecued chicken, fresh bread rolls, some beer and some tiny doughnuts. A king's feast, truly. We have unpacked, gotten the washing ready for tomorrow, and done some grocery shopping. We have even gone for a walk along Throsby Creek, our favourite walking track. It was nice to be back.

    I am missing my mother. Normally, I would have gone up to see her this afternoon. I would have looked forward to holding her and feeling her lovely embrace. I would have been looking forward to sharing with her the pics and stories of our time away. It is not maudlin, just the truth of one part of me this afternoon. Chris feels it too.

    It will take a few weeks to process our trip. We have started already, but there was so much to see and do. We travelled in six states and crossed so many time zones, our body clocks don't know whether they are Arthur or Martha. Some quick observations:

    1. America's poverty in the cities is much more on show than it is here. The down and outs are greater in number. They do not have the safety net that Australia has.
    2. The politics on TV every night is both a blessing and a curse. They are the most politicised nation on earth. Trump only has to scratch his arse and they talk about it in panels and discussions for hour after after hour after hour. Each show dissecting the scratch from every angle and what it means he's not scratching. I follow politics, but boy, this gets a bit much.
    3. American coffee. What can I say? It's shit! Australia is blessed with a wonderful European coffee culture and you really notice its lack when you're in the States. To be fair, there were one or two dedicated cafés, but realistically, you could walk ten blocks and not find an outlet that does espresso. And don't get me started on creamer and non-dairy creamer!
    4. American food, oh sorry American friends, is not as good as Australian food. We are so spoiled for choice here. American food is not as adventurous, neither their everyday food or their fancy schmancy food in restaurants. When you're on the road, you like to eat simple nutritious food that sits well and not always some gargantuan serving of whatever it is would you like fries with that? I look forward to my American buddies coming to Australia so I can show them some great places to eat.
    5. Trump and the Republicans. We were very discreet in our opinions about their President and his Party. Of course, we felt we had to. But when there were like-minded people around us, we did let them know what the rest of the world thinks about the man they voted in. There is actually a lot of shame and embarrassment about this. I hope this blip in time teaches them that in a system where there is non-compuslory voting, they simply have to get out and vote, for the good of the whole damn world.
    6. The endless, relentless pharmaceutical commercials on TV aimed, not at the medical profession, but at us, the consumer. Just wow! Like I said with the politics shows, I am so glad we do not have these types of commerical on tv in Australia.

    Highlights: Too many. I loved San Francisco, Lake Tahoe, Salt Lake City, Cedar City, Bryce Canyon, the Grand Canyon, Dallas and Honolulu. I loved the opera on opening night of the San Fran season. I loved the California Zephyr as a great train experience. It was exciting getting into SLC at 3 in the morning before the city woke up. The galleries, the museums, the swims, our hotel rooms, epsecially the Presidential Suite in the Sheraton Dallas. We bought some clothes and some souvenirs. I have a few more owls - as if the house needed more owls. What fun!

    Of course, we had our moments too. Fortunately, they were rare. Chris and I have an understanding that if either of us needs some 'me time', it's ours. Generally, we can get along very well even when we spend vast amounts of time in each other's company. The most surreal and maybe difficult time we had was the evacuation at 3am from the 31st floor of the Sheraton in Dallas. It took our calf muscles three full days to settle down after running down 62 flights of stairs in fear with adrenalin pumping through us. Surely, a night to remember. Oh, how we laughed.

    Stu's and Chris' America Trip is over. we had a blast.

    But of course the human element was the best. For Chris (and me) to be able to meet Micah and his partner Jason in SLC was so wonderful. And for me (and Chris) to meet up with Ben and his partner Tino in Dallas was amazing.

    Chris and I have already begun the conversation about whether this trip will change us, whether we will grow, or whether we will just settle back into what was before. Both of us want some change in our lives. Chris has hit his early forties and is keen to move. I turn 60 next year and that brings a whole lot of existential ponderiing to me. I think our America trip will be influential for us both in trying to engage wisely what comes next and how it comes next.

    I read yesterday Lao tzu's thoughts on travelling in the Tao in Poem 47 - Looking Far.

    You don't have to go out the door
    to know what goes on in the world.
    You don't have to look out the window
    to see the way of heaven.

    The farther you go,
    The less you know

    So the wise soul
    doesn't go, but knows;
    doesn't look, but sees;
    doesn't do, but gets it done.

    Ursula Le Guin makes the point that a Roman poet once said that travellers change their sky, but not their souls. I hope Chris and I take from our journeying what we need in this part of our life together.

    And thank you for sharing it with us.
    Læs mere

  • Hawaii Honolulu Waikiki

    28. september 2018, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    We arrived in Hawaii a few days ago, ready to slow down, stop going to galleries and museums, and just enjoy a nice hotel overlooking the Pacific Ocean surrounded by palm trees and heavily forested craters of volcanoes. And this, pretty much, is what we've done since arriving.

    Honolulu is hot. Yes, lots of hot gorgeous people, but it's really just hot. It is incredibly humid. Our first night out, we walked along the beach promenade at Waikiki and happened upon a little eatery that had outdoor dining as well as inside. But the humidity was such that it continuously morphed into rain. Heavy rain. And then it would stop. We moved inside on our third table move. The evenings are particularly challenging. Eating out is a big deal just to get there and back again dry. Seated at a table with just the effort of using utensils, your brow breaks into a sweat, your neck too, your sleeves stick to your arms, your shorts stick to your legs. In truth, I have always imagined hell not so much as a fiery furnace as a sauna. Honolulu is outrageously beautiful, but I could not live here.

    We have swum in the ocean multiple times a day. It is a pale blue crystal colour, the colour of a larimar to be precise. It is warm, over 20 degrees C, but refreshing. Gentle waves that do not break until the shoreline just keep rolling through. You can swim or bob around in them for ages without getting cold. A volcanic crater up one end of the beach marks a particularly splendid view as you relax on the beach or in the water. Surfers on long boards paddle way way way out where there is a break. Some use wooden paddles. Duke Kahanamoku's name or image is everywhere. With these waves, I can see why he is the father of modern surfing.

    I tried to write here, but I couldn't concentrate, so abandoned the effort. Not sure if it was Waikiki or the nature of a piece of truly awkward penmanship that I needed to fix that caused my inability to write. That still awaits me.

    We have bought some clothes here and slept a lot. Our body clocks are all over the shop having been in so many different time zones. Eating out is a wonder here. They marry the inside with the outside so well. A roof, then no roof, then a roof again. Gas lit fire sticks everywhere, fairylights through the trees, and trees themselves allowed to grow through where a roof should have been. Great trees. Ancient trees. Ponds, waterfalls, comfy seats to just sit back and watch the water. Shops all round. It really leaves our indoor gargantuan shopping malls for dead.

    If we ever get back here there is much more of Hawaii to see. I think you would need some time. The people are super friendly, "aloha" as a matter of course wherever you go.

    Today is our last day here in Hawaii and also of our grand United States adventure. It will take some time to process. It seems forever ago that we landed in San Francisco and got a ride share from the airport.

    A long flight to Sydney awaits us in the morning and it really then will be all over. Maybe one more footprint. Till next.
    Læs mere

  • Dallas

    25. september 2018, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Dallas has given us the chance to slow things down. It has been lovely. Our Presidential Suite, huge as it is, has become home and we have settled in comfortably.

    We saw the Sixth Floor Museum, which used to be the Book Depository from where JFK was assassinated. The museum is dedicated to preserving one of the most famous crime scenes from the twentieth century and to the whole complex story of Kennedy's assassination and its aftermath. It did a great job, attempted balance, but fell into hagiography once or twice, which in Dallas, I think is forgivable.

    Dallas itself is lovely. It's modern and clean, not a great deal of homelessness, some overt poverty, but not as much as San Francisco. There are many interesting looking buildings here, but most are modern architecture, ar least in the part of Dallas we are staying.

    We took in a movie, The House with a Clock in its Walls, starring Jack Black and Cate Blanchett. It is set in down-home post-war America and has that wonderful colour palette of the time. You would have seen it in both The Shape of Water and Carol. Really lovely. The House etc was fun and extremely well done. A bit schmaltzy at times, but that goes with the fantasy genre it was aiming for. Happy to sit through it again one day.

    Finally today, my friend Ben and I caught up and spent some time together. It was great to sit and talk and walk and talk without hurry. We caught up on each other's lives and talked some politics, philosophy and theology. He and partner Tino joined us for pizza in the Presidential Suite this evening which was just wonderful. Such a great time. These boys too, just like our Salt Lake City friends, have an open invitation to visit us in Australia anytime.

    We leave Dallas having discovered two new friends and a fabulous new city. Our time on mainland US soil is over and we're heading home, but not before a couple of days to break our trip in Hawaii. Till next.
    Læs mere

  • Towering Inferno, Waterworld, West Wing

    22. september 2018, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    It's nice to stay somewhere air-conditioned when you're in Dallas at this time of year. It's hot and steamy and there are storms always threatening, some of which appear, some of which don't. And so it was that Chris and I settled into the Sheraton, an older, but gloriously older, hotel in the downtown. They gave us a room on the 31st floor, second from the top, from which we had sweeping views of this part of the city. Come midnight, we were still up, talking, responding to socials, I was tweeting correctives to Lyle Shelton (what can I say), both awaiting the long day's travel to finally hit us and the sleep train arrive. It did, just after 12 of the clock.

    At 2.15, we were suddenly awoken by an alarm in our room, a god-awful low sounding howl, punctuated by a human voice that said calmly but incessantly, "Please leave your room. Go to the lobby. Do not use the elevators. Leave immediately. This is an emergency". We both jumped out of our skin at the first sound of the alarm. Chris screamed. I think I did too. We jumped out of bed, processed the message, realised we were in an evacuation and started to pull some clothes on and shoes. We grabbed our personal bags, I grabbed my watch and wedding ring too and headed for the door. I had not had time to put socks on, so I was shod in my shoes only, with no orthotics that I usually wear. Our revestment went all the while to the frightening strains of this man telling us to get out. Trying to tie the laces on my second shoe, my hands started to shake and I was fumblling badly.

    Outside in the hallway, we heard others on our floor, but saw no-one at first. We headed down the hallway, trying to find the stairwell. Around a corner or two, we finally came across it. The whole time we were searching for it, we could hear the siren and the message. It was absolutely terrifying. We were both scared half out of our wits. I am old enough to have watched and been terrified at the 1974 movie The Towering Inferno, where a high-rise in San Francisco goes up in flames and residents are trapped on the upper floors to burn to death. But at the Sheraton, there was no Paul Newman or Steve McQueen to save us. We were on our own.

    We headed into the stairwell and started what can only be described as the most surreal experience of my life. We were both shaking but descending the steps. There were 62 flights to get down. Gripping the railings as we went to steady ourselves from falling. Some older dude either on our floor or Floor 32 came hurtling past us. We were in his way, but he was determined to get down out of this building, so "excuse me" and we let him pass. "Hmm," I thought, "save yourself buddy". We just kept on going and going, flight after flight after flight. By about ten flights down, I realised that my two big toes were being pressed into the side of their respective shoes in such a way as to abraid them. "O God," I thought, "I'm getting blisters". But it was blisters or possible death, so I pressed on, my feet absolutely killing me. We both stayed relatively calm. We could hear fire engines outside the building speeding toward us and parking. But we managed to just concentrate on the task at hand. Flight 15, flight 16, flight 17 and on wards, down and down and down. VERY scary!

    Two people joined us somewhere on the journey down, so for the last third, there were four of us. A man and a young woman, who were not together. They had both come from 32. Eventually, we got to the bottom and opened a barred door and we found ourselves out on the street in the bucketing down rain. Confused as to where we were in relation to the building entrance, for the Sheraton Dallas has three towers, we ended up following the fellow who got it right and got us around to the entrance and lobby. As we entered, the fire engines were driving away and a young girl from the hotel said in THE most cavalier fashion you could possibly muster, "Don't worry, false alarm, just a leak set it off". The four of us just looked at her, hearts racing, panting from hurtling down a skyscraper, adrenalin pumping, calf muscles already painful, wet and dripping somewhat, as if she had murdered our grandmothers and cut them up with an axe. A leak? That was it?

    We got ourselves up to the lobby, on the second floor, to be greeted by Robin, who was very kind, thoughtful, offered us water and a sit down, and some reassurance, but the rest of the hotel staff, clearly not in charge, were just lolling about laughing among themselves. Another man and his wife came in just after us and we found out they were also on the 31st floor, in fact two doors from us, and they had just done the same thing. They were older than us, the wife, not the fittest and rather a big woman. If we struggled, they struggled even more.

    After some solidarity of our shared experience, we went back up in the lift to the 31st floor and had to process what had happened. It was 3am. We were wide awake and drowning in incredulity. I said to Chris that tomorrow morning, we would ask for another room, something lower down, and perhaps something a smidge bigger as there was only one chair.

    We did fall asleep eventually and woke this morning full of promise, joking that we had both had this really bad scary dream last night. Readying ourselves for the day, we headed back down to the lobby to talk to the Manager. I wanted to give feedback. In fact, I wanted to give three pages of feedback, as I had sat down and put a few thoughts on the page so I would not forget anything. It was all helpful feedback, no blowhard anger or anything like that. Accidents happen. They could have handled this better, and I suggested where they might, including looking after the mental health of patrons in a situation like that. The feedback was gratefully accepted by one of the managers, Angela, who also said she would upgrade our room for us to something bigger and lower.

    We were being met this morning by my friend Ben Strube and his partner Tino. Ben read my book years ago and we became good friends online. We've skyped a few times, but this was the first time we have met face to face. It was such a lovely morning, a real balm after such a distressing night. Ben and Tino took us first for coffee where we chatted and got to know each other better. We were able to give Ben an original art work that I had asked Chris to do for him. Another beautiful piece. He's so clever.

    After coffee, we headed into Tino's workplace which is a gallery where we got to see some amazing Latino art; sculpture, drawings, etchings, pottery, paintings, metalwork, all sorts of media. As we once might have said in Australia in a bygone era - fan bloody tastic. We so enjoyed Tino's gallery and felt we had seen something really special.

    Brekky after that at authentic Mexican, which we both enjoyed enormously. The boys looked after us so well and we all connected wonderfully. We'll be seeing them again over the next few days.

    This afternoon, we took in the delights of the Dallas Aquarium, which hosts some amazing exhibits, birds as well as fish and reptiles. I loved the owls, as always. They were just huge. The aquarium is kind of in two halves. The first half has you snaking aroung a single track looking at the exhibits as you go. Great idea for maybe thrity people at a time. But when they let in hundreds, it bottlenecks up and gets quite close and you can't see much. They need to allow only fifty through at a time, with a five to ten minute break between groups to allow things to proceed. The second half is more traditional, tanks and pools, and people start to thin out a bit more here. The Dallas Aquarium is rightly known as one of the world's great aquariums. We got some amazing pics.

    Home and to our new room. We sidled up to Check-in and the girl said, "I think you'll be pleased with your up-grade.". I joked and said, "it's not the Presidential Suite is it, ha ha?" To which she replied, "I don't make these decisions, I just do the keys, at which point, she handed over two freshly minted hotel room keys and told us our new floor, the ninth. "Much better" I thought.

    Arriving at Room 955, we were greeted with a sign on the door that said, PRESIDENTIAL SUITE. "You have got to be joking" we both intoned. We slowly opened the door, and walked into a giant beautiful room lit with charming lamps, with lounge suites, dinner table, coffee table, opening out again into a long lounge room, with bar, then an office with escritoire, at which I am writing this footprint right now, then a bedroom and two bathrooms. This thing is enormous. It is bigger than our living area at home. Not long after, Angela from Managment rang and asked if we had settled in. She was very thankful for our courteous attitude that morning and for the written feedback which she said she would take to the various meetings. How lovely! And what a way to finish off this extraordinary 24 hours.

    I have just listened to one Handel Organ Concerto and two Haydn Cello Concertos as I wrote this. Chris is doodling some new art work, a bird I think. We are happy and content in our Presidential Suite and ready to take on Dallas again tomorrow. Till Next.
    Læs mere

  • Travel Day to Dallas

    21. september 2018, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Vegas is great. Vegas is big. Vegas is OTT. Vegas is full-on. Vegas is not my cup of tea at all. Frankly, I doubt you could get a cup of tea in Vegas. If you could, they'd want to serve it with Margarita and a slot machine.

    Up early, Ubered out to the airport for a 9am flight to Dallas. We lost a couple of hours in time zones but the flight was also delayed some 30 minutes from landing due to storms. Dallas is muggy. Dallas is frowzy. Dallas is close. As Chris said, it's like a Newcastle or Sydney summer at the height. Hot, incredibly humid, it's no wonder it rains. TG for air conditioning.

    Very disappointed with American Airlines (I hope you're reading this AA). First, they separated us, after having purchased the tickets ages ago. Second, the flight was full and by the time we boarded, the overhead lockers were crammed full. This meant that we both had to carry our overhead bags as well as our personal bags into middle seats. One half of one bag stuffed under the seat, the personal bag stuck under the seat in front, where your feet are supposed to go. For three and a half hours. Boo hiss boo!

    I did watch a movie and listened to a bit of music on the flight to help pass the time. 'A Quiet Place' starring John Krasinski and Emily Blunt masterfully protect their family from alien creatures that are blind but attack anything they hear in a killing frenzy. You see them, but you hear them more. Very clever. The family communicates by sign. It is very compelling and I got a few jump frights on the way, as did, I presume, the two gentlemen either side of me. Politically, this movie is about having your voice silenced. Hollywood makes no bid for morality here as it plays it straight down the middle. Both Right and Left could claim this movie as their own. Boo hiss boo! Take a stand! Four stars. It goes to places, even in the opening sequence you don't expect. It's more of a thriller than horror, but there are some horror elements present. Very enjoyable and very well done.

    The sound track to my boxed in twisted uncomfortable flight was Joan Baez The Night They Drove Old Dixie Down, some Handel, Mozart and Verdi soprano arias performed by Sutherland, and the Haydn Piano Concerto in D Major, a sweet little thing.

    We're staying an an older hotel in Dallas, the Sheraton, that they are renovating. We have a comfortable although not huge, room on the 31st floor and have a fine view over the city. We've been out for a bite and it really is a city of glass. I grew up on the tv show Dallas, but none of that sensibility is present anymore. I doubt we'll be doing a Southfork tour even if there is one. Bathed, beered, eaten, we feel refreshed and ready to discover this balmy city. I mean that in the nicest possible way. Till next.
    Læs mere

  • Driving to Vegas

    20. september 2018, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    Up early. Packed and ready to go. On the road by 8am. First stop: McDonalds, for take away coffee. That was over the road from our hotel. "Im exhausted from all this driving" I said to Chris, as I parked the car and headed for the Maccas door. "I need coffee". Coffees in hand, off we set.

    We set up Margo, our sometimes obstreperous GPS, to take us to Las Vegas, but to stop off on the way, at the Hoover Dam. I thought I heard Margo say, "Hmph typical" after we put the coordinates into her.

    Our drive was wonderful. Arizona is so dry and so hot that I scarce can believe anyone lives here. Nevada the same. Still, they do, so good luck to them. I wouldn't want to. Chris' music predominated the drive and I enjoyed it as always. I did play three songs though. One opera aria, in fact, one we heard back in San Francisco: 'voi lo sapete' sung by Maria Callas. It's big and sad and anguished and gutsy and I've been humming it a lot since San Fran. Chris suggested it was the same theme as Dolly Parton's Jolene. He's basically right. The other two were Roy Orbison songs from his last album before his death, Mystery Girl, which I love. The Comedians, full of pathos, and the title track, Mystery Girl.

    We pulled into Hoover Dam a little later than expected, but still keen to walk across this gargantuan structure. Did I say the Hoover Dam is big? Ginormous and very impressive in its stylistic accoutrements as well. Some art deco touches can't be missed. It was dreadfully hot, in the high 30s, so we walked across one way, turned and headed back the other, sweating like we had just run marathons. Since 9/11, cars are no longer permitted to drive across the dam, so they built an enormous viewing bridge adjacent. We skipped the bridge, headed vack to the cool of the car and headed for Vegas baby!

    Having given the car back to the nice rental people, all in one piece, and said our goodbyes to Margo, we Ubered in to the Planet Hollywood Hotel and Casino. The first thing was to change and use the pool facilities to wash the dust of the desert off. Planet Hollywood's pool is like one of those pool scenes in a movie, where all the rich and talented people show off their bodies, drinking champagne, sun baking, sitting at the poolside bar, swaying to the speakered music. Of course, Chris and I just fitted right in. We both dived in and swam to the middle of the large pool. No-one else was swimming, only sunning themselves in the baking Nevada sun. We both swam a few laps, then lolled about in the water for some time and finally left them to their cancerous folly.

    Bath. Dinner in Lombardi's Italian Restaurant in the lower levels of the hotel, which by the way, all look like The Truman Show in that the domed ceiling is painted and lit like a sunny blue sky. It's very realistic. We're not gamblers so the casinos don't interest us, nor do the show girls, nor the strip clubs.

    After a fabulous dinner where I ordered rigatoni boscaiola in a pink sauce followed by tiramisu and a glass of sauvignon blanc, and Chris, agnolotti, tiramisu and a Sangria cocktail, we headed outside, into the infernal heat, to look at the Vegas Strip and watch the fountain do its musical thing at the Bellagio. It was fun, but we're a bit done, and in truth, Vegas is only and was ever only meant to be, a lay over as we're flying to Texas in the morning.

    The driving part of this holiday started off inauspuciously, but righted itself quickly enough. My head is completely around where and how to drive in this varied land and I can say honestly that I have enjoyed the road trip very much.

    From the majesty of the Grand Canyon to the ditzy crass commercialism that is Vegas, you could not get two places more juxtaposed. Still, I guess a lot of people put these two places together. Tonight we sleep, and tomorrow brings our penultimate adventure. Till next.
    Læs mere

  • Just How Grand is the Grand Canyon?

    19. september 2018, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Driving from Cedar City to the Grand Canyon, you can take a number of different routes, each offering you different vistas. We took Highway 14, the Cedar Canyon road, and then onto Interstate 89. This route should have gotten us to the GC in five hours without stops. With stops however, especially the kind of stops that Chris and I favour, one hour lunch breaks, half hour morning or afternoon breaks, gas breaks (no, not farting breaks, fuel breaks) and photo breaks, where some view demands the car be stopped and a picture taken, that total driving figure starts to head in a northerly direction. It also heads north when somewhere along the drive, you miss a turn and you end up driving right around part of the canyon that you didn't have to, thus making the trip ten hours behind the wheel and seeing us pulling into Tusayan Grand Canyon Plaza Hotel, somewhat frazzled, very tired, stiff and sore and a bit antsy. BTW, neither of us knows where we missed the route as it was originally intended. As for Margot, our trusty GPS direction machine, she was totally useless in letting us know we might do a U turn and go back and get on the right road. Instead, what does Margot do? Calculate from the wrong road and keeps us going. Thanks Margot.

    In conscience, I cannot speak of this drive as a pain just because it took us longer than expected. This drive would have to be one of the great drives of the world. I mean this literally. I am not using hyperbole. The canyon appears and disappears in great escarpments, huge canyons, red cliffs, unbelievable geology, Martian-like views, huge mesas, flat plains ending at the base of vertical cliffs. Westerns were filmed in this area, Kanab. So many times, we just had to stop talking and look. 'Oh my God' was a common theme. Music on the way ranged from Let The Bright Seraphim by Handel sung by Joan Sutherland, the Concerto for Four Harpsichords by Bach, Beethoven's Pastoral Symphony which was played during a forested part of the trip, the Traveling Wilburys, and from Chris, Emmy-Lou Harris, George Harrison's I Got My Mind Set On You, and Sarah Blasko. Great music for the car trip of a lifetime. Seriously, it's got to be in the top three drives around the world.

    The following day, we decided we would take a lay day. We were in need of one, so we lolled about, rested, napped, drank a little, wrote, and just took the day off. I edited my autobiography some more and Chris worked on a fictional 'coming out' piece he's been wrestling with for a week or two. It was necessary.

    Today, we headed into the canyon. I visited the canyon 30 years ago in my late twenties. In my book, I tell the story of my riding a very ornery mule down into the canyon. Today, we dispensed with the mules and just walked the same track, the Rim Trail at Bright Angel Trailhead. The view over Bright Angel is truly spectacular. Words do not do it justice. It opens up before you like a great gash in the earth, a gash of cosmic proportions. People come form all over the world to see this sight. It is as I remembered it: majestic, awe-inspiring, offering the genuine wow factor, massive off the human scale, incredibly beautiful, speech deactivating. You just have to take it in. Even after you've been looking at it and you walk off, you stop again to take it in again. It's that kind of sight. I would recommend to anyone, if they have the means, to try to see the Grand Canyon if they can. Deborah, from Macy's Men's Department in San Francisco told us it was on her bucket list. I hope she gets here one day.

    At the end of our day in the canyon, the clouds came over and a canyon-worthy downpour struck the area. We watched it come in gently at first way out there over the canyon. You could see what looked like gentle wisps of cloud falling from their cloud-parents down into the canyon floor. But this was no cloud. It was rain. It was a wonder to watch and film. Just beautiful. Inevitably, a great thunder-head built up and the heavens let loose. If I may, it fairly pissed down, some of the heaviest rain I have ever seen. And here's the fun part. Chris and I lost our bearings completely and totally lost the car. We trudged around in this torrent for a good half an hour, soaked to the skin, our shoes, bags, goodies, wet with a Grand Canyon storm. it was wonderful. You know, once you're that wet, it really doesn't matter how much it rains, because you can't get any wetter than saturated. We both kept our sense of humour and treated it lke an adventure, a little gift the Canyon was giving us to send us on our wet and somewhat merry way.

    I have put some pics of the journey on the way here and some of the canyon for you to take a peek, but truly, no word, no photo can do this chasm justice.

    So, just how grand IS the Grand Canyon? Well, it is well named indeed. It is truly, unspeakably, hand on heart, fabulously, incredibly, indescribably, GRAND.

    Till next.
    Læs mere

  • Driving Down Utah

    17. september 2018, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Today was a journey day. You know, when you leave one place and spend a day or more travelling to another. This morning, it was farewell to Salt Lake City and hello to the open road. Cue Willie Nelson.

    The first thing was to return to the car rental place at the airport and do the walk of shame. When describing the events of two days ago, my voice gave out at one point and I couldn't say anything. The words didn't want to come. But they were very good about it. They gave me a nice red Chevy Cruze and we were off to drive the interstate. Today we would drive down the length of Utah and bunk in at Cedar City for the night. And this for one reason only: Bryce Canyon.

    My friends will be pleased to know that we had a smooth, comfortable, uneventful and enjoyable drive.
    Now as you all know, a road trip is nothing without music and singing. We took it in turns for half hour slots for music. I chose things that I haven't heard in ages, like Paul McCartney's Monkberry Moon Delight and Dear Boy off The Ram album, California Blue by Roy Orbison, You Win Again by the Bee Gees, California Dreaming and Creek Alley by the Mamas and the Papas, My Heart Will Go On by Celine Dion and La Riviere by Frida Boccara. Yes I did throw in one classical; Chopin's Ballade No 1 in G Minor. I also chose Soon We'll Be Found by Sia, because Chris played her Chandelier. Oh, and I also played Love by Lana Del Rey. Along with Chris' choices, the music was awesome. Some songs made me cry, what with the musicianship and the memories. Wiping tears away while you're driving down Interstate 15 is probably something only older people will understand.

    We were greeted at our Best Western Cedar City by young Aubree at the desk. We have just written to her boss to let him/her know that Aubree's welcome, warmth and helpful tips as well as her sunny disposition has been the best since we look landed in the United States. Hats off to Aubree.

    We freshened up and took Highway 14 through the canyon lands on our way to Bryce Canyon. These are amazing themselves. You really feel you are driving the bottom of a vast canyon system. Just wonderful.

    We arrived at Bryce as the sun was getting low in the sky. First, we stopped at Red Canyon where the rocks are red and the geology looks like it is from Mars. From there we paid our park fee and headed into Bryce. We only had time for the amphitheatre part of the canyon. It opens out before you, a vast landscape. Below in the depths you see red and white hoodoos, the tall spires that crop up out of these amazing places. We waited for the sun to get so low that most of tops of the canyon walls were no longer being bleached and this is when the magic happens. With the shadows come the real colours. The red of this predominantly limestone is mesmerising. Bryce is another world. In the winter, it is covered in snow. I feel very lucky to have seen such a sight. Chris and I will never forget it.

    On the one and a half hour journey back to Cedar City in the dark, Chris played quite a few songs by Lykke Li and after my Bryce experience, I just had to listen to a full piano concerto, something that could stand up to a sight like that. I chose the Schumann in A Minor played by that Argentinian fiend, the incredible Martha Argerich. A great day. An unforgettable evening. Till next.
    Læs mere

  • Is There A Mormon In The House?

    15. september 2018, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    So what do you first think of when you hear the name of the city, Salt Lake City? I know what it is for me. It's not surrounding mountains, it's not wide flat Utah plains, it's not the University and it's not the architecture. Yep, if you're anything like me, you think of Mormons.

    But we'll get to the Mormons.

    Chris and I arrived here at 2.45am on the train. Half asleep, but bizarrely awake and interested, we caught a taxi into our hotel. The Little America hotel is anything but little. It is large, sprawling, goes up and out forever and has a foyer that is pure opulence. The foyer itself is as big as a football field, containing numerous plush lounge suites and polished timber tables for the lollabout guest to lounge in or wait.

    The girl at the desk on our arrival was a little crisp, I must say, but not as icy as the girl yesterday, when I asked for another room key as I had misplaced the first. Whether she took a look at Chris and then me, and then did a Mormon double-take, I cannot guess, but we have essentially stayed away from the front desk. The rest of the staff have been wonderful, especially the Latinos who have always gone out of their way to be helpful.

    However, one night, I desperately wanted a beer, so asked a passing Latino uniformed fellow.
    "Excuse me, do you have a bar in the hotel?"
    "A bar room" ?
    "Yes a bar room".
    "Yes sir, we have three. Just go to the end of the foyer and turn left and you will find them down there". "Thank you so much. Have a good night" and off I sauntered to my pick of three bar rooms. As I walked down the length of the corridor, I could see no signs of bar life nor sounds of bar revelry. It was then that it came to me. I looked at the signs.
    Ball room 1. Ball room 2. Ball room 3.
    PS. I did find the bar.

    The Little America Hotel I understand, is owned by some tycoon family or enterprise that has them all over the country. But here in SLC, they also own another hotel directly across the road from the Little America. The Grand America is like nothing I've seen before. For those of you who remember the old Commonwealth Bank money boxes that were shaped like the Sydney branch, that is what the Grand America looks like, only bigger and well, grander. It towers into the sky, this great monolithic oblong. It has a small dome on top and atop that, a giant American flag that is so high up, it flies proudly all the time. This building is opulence turned up to off the scale. The shape, the columns, the colour, the sheer physical presence says, "Hello world. I am America. I am great. I am powerful. I am majestic. I am beautiful. You cannot help but gaze upon my splendour." Thoughts of Shelley's Ozymandias have kept winging their way into my consciousness all week every time I see this thing.

    "My name is Ozymandias, King of Kings;

    Look on my Works, ye Mighty, and despair!"

    Well you all know the ending of Shelley's poem. If you don't, look it up, it's a great ending. The Grand America can be seen from any point in the city. Which was always quite helpful for us, as it gave us our 'true north' as it were, and got us home each time.

    On the first day's adventure, we went to the incredible Museum of Natural History. Now think Opera House in terms of impressive architectural structure. This multi mezzanined edifice that also seemed to be cantilevered had vast halls inside that would make Thror son of Thrain and the other dwarves of Erebor stand up and applaud. The Museum had a wonderful collection and is incredibly interactive but the dinosaur collection was to die for. They certainly did. Just a little dinosaur joke there for those of you who were watching. They had everything from the littluns to the really bigguns. Notice my dinosaur taxonomy is right up there with the best. I was recently told I should have become a paleontologist. Of course, no museum or art gallery is complete without a visit to the gift shop, which of course we did, and may have bought a thingy or two.

    The following day, we decided to take a drive in the mountains. SLC is a famous gateway for the snow and skiing. Park City is on the mountains near it, one of the world's most famous ski resorts. Driving up there through these sheer cliffs and mountain streams, mountains rising up right before you, you felt like you were on top of the world. It was an unforgetable experience.

    Unfortunately, so was the flat tyre I managed to get us up in those mountains. We had come through Guardsman's Pass, a steep and quite terrifying drive, and were coming back down the other side to go through Park City when I allowed the car to veer somewhat to the right near the walls of the ridge, as the camber of the road was weird and dificult. I thought I was playing it safe. Safe? Not so much. Stupid, much better.

    The rear tyre punctured on a bit of limestone, the car signalled that the Romulans were attacking and I brought the ship to a stand-still, all power re-routed to shields and life support. Now in truth, I have not changed a tyre in over 30 years, but I was sure that I could remember how to do it. Chris had never changed one. But down to it we got and had the wheel off after sensibly chocking the other front and rear tyres first. It was actually a bit of a nightmare. This is a steep mountain pass and we were high up in it. Anyway, "oh frabjous day, calloo callay" we got the spare on and limped home. We did take some lovely pics and a few vids while up there.

    That night, we had decided to return the car to the airport and pick up a replacement. But we thought we would stop and have something to eat first in the city. As luck would have it, as I drove the vehicle down into an underground carpark, I hit the front tyre on a piece of concrete sticking out somewhat, a piece of concrete I still have not seen. It shredded the front tyre, I swore ferociously at msyelf and my utter ineptness, an increasing profound sense of shame descending upon me by the second. To count and just to make sure you didn't miss anything, I have now destroyed two tyres on the same day. There is no spare to put on the front. It is already on the back! Oh God! Oh God!

    I have been driving since I was 17 years old and have never caused an accident. And here in America, the last I see of the nice Hyundai Elantra was it being hauled up onto the back of a tow truck and towed away. The stress of this was something shocking. The humiliation was even worse. The man couldn't fit the tow truck in the underground carpark so had to drive it up on its three wheels. Oh God! I toyed with leaving this out of my account, but ahhh, who cares, that was yesterday.

    Today, we had the glorious opportunity of meeting up with one of Chris' online pals and his husband. These guys are such lovely men. They took us to lunch, which after yesterday's commpete fiasco, was just such a sweet salve. We laughed a lot and talked politics and countries and each others' reltionships. Chris had done an original art work for his friend. It was an absolutely stunning piece of art. I was very proud of him. His friend was so touched, he was speechless at first. So the four of us will stay in touch and hopefully in each other's lives. Thank you Micah and Jason.

    So, the Mormons. I understand that about 40% of SLC is Mormon. I have spent the entire time here every time I spoke with someone, an Uber driver, the laundry lady, the hotel staff, thinking, "Are you a Mormon? Are you a Mormon? Are you a Mormon? Of course, I'm not crass enough to have actually asked, but I have wondered.

    We went to the Mormon Temple tonight. It is a beautiful building to be sure, but I felt uneasy there as did Chris. From their early beginnings with their whole pioneer mythos, they have built this worldwide churrch that is super exclusive, super orthodox and super rich. SLC around Temple Square reeks of money. Lots of people leave the Church, as it's known here, to find lives outside that narrow worldview, as have many Christians from other stultifying denominations. I decided to record a smal vid that would be posted on my book's Facebook page, which I did. It's just a short encouragment to gay LDS people, as many of them read my book and made contact over the years. So, it's on the Being Gay Being Christian Facebook page if you want to take a look.

    Salt Lake City is beautiful. Wide streets, no graffiti, little homelessness, no drunkeness - Utah liquor laws are strict - it would be a nice place to live. It gets heaps of snow in the winter. The cinema is plush with recliners - we sat and watched The Predator two nights ago - don't bother! The people are friendly and the whole place feels safe. The Church does seem to superimpose itself over the city, commercially, politically, religiously, but if you were not a part of all that, SLC has a lot to offer. I made two new great friends here and would be happy to come back one day. Till next.
    Læs mere

  • Across Nevada

    12. september 2018, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    It was farewell to Lake Tahoe today and indeed farewell to California. A quick brekky at the Sunnyside Lodge, followed by a final pack and cleaning of teeth, and we were off on the TART bus like a couple of tarts, to the historic frontier town of Truckee, where we would catch the California Zephyr that starts in San Francisco and goes all the way to Chicago. With this little town, I can't help thinking of the Ricki Lee Jones 1979 song 'Chuck E's in love,' but singing 'Truckee's in love' instead, which clearly makes no sense at all, unless you accept that Truckee loves Stu and Chris.

    We had a few hours to see the glories of Truckee before our train came, so walked the length of the street a few times, stopped and had lunch at a diner, then waited for the Zephyr. Given that Truckee is in the mountains, the train actually has to travel quite slowly, so my imagined rush of wind and a great roar as the Zephyr ground to a stop in front of me didn't really actualise quite like that. There was a clanging bell to be sure, but nothing of great solemnity. The train sort of limped in and didn't so much grind to halt as fizzled to a halt. There were some squealing breaks, so I don't feel cheated completely out of a great rail experience.

    Like I said in an earlier Footprint, the Zephyr is vey comfortable and a pleasure to be on. Since we're on it for thirteen hours and alighting in the wee small hours of the morning in Salt Lake City, we got a sleeping car. Equipped with two fetching bunks and all the mod cons (showing my age there - no-body under 50 uses the phrase mod-cons), we were also favoured by the ticketing gods to dine with others in the dining car. No cafe snack for us, no siree. Chris had a nice burtternut risotto washed down with a Bud, and I had a chicken breast with mashed potatoe and gravy, washed down with a glass of Chardy. We were seated by the maitre d' opposite two individual men who were absolutely enchanting. Before long, the four of us were all comparing stories about governance, indigenous peoples, tax, cruises, accents and the like. Therte were a few hearty laughs, which you might be surprsed at, given the list of topics we covered, but there you are, Chris and I can make tax funny.

    The scenery as you leave California and head into Nevada is quite breath-taking. It is brown and rocky for a way, then eventually it turns into huge mountains and what looks like salt plains. It is all very desolate but there is a great beauty in that too. One of the few staions the train stops at is Winnemucca, made famous by the Tales of the City books by Armistead Maupin. Therre's not much there and even though I couldn't see the Blue Moon brothel, I feel it was still there, even if only in its literary form. Winnemucca is nestled under Winnemucca Mountain which is actually quite impressive.

    As I write, we have dined, read, posted, and are going to listen to music for awhile before turning in. I'm planning on listening to Saint Saens 2nd piano concerto in G Minor which feels just right for where I am and what I'm doing. We are both a bit weary but of good cheer and enjoying our adventure. We have a 3am appointment with the Salt Lake City train station and, hopefully not long after that, a very welcome bed in a nice hotel in the city.

    It's been nice having you along. I hope you are enjoying our little sojourn overseas from the comfort of your own homes. Feel free to temporarily download the Find Penguins app if you want to make some comments. Till next.
    Læs mere

  • Trains, Truckee and Tahoe

    11. september 2018, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    The trip to Lake Tahoe was an event in itself. The scenery as we left the coast slowly changed. There is some drought here, so many of the fields at first were that dry wizzened NSW brown that we've all seen for far too long. But eventually, we got into the mountains to be greeted by mountain scenery that was different to anything we have in Australia. Large mountainous beasts would rise into the air, some with mobile phone towers on them, but mostly free and unforgiving. Lots of granite and pines and fur trees. A powerful and rugged landscape.

    The train jounrey itself was comfortable and I became engrossed in the life of a physically disabled woman in our carriage on a motorised wheelchair who spoke to several people on her phone during the hours that rolled by. Her name was Cindy. She was a widow and the mother of two sons, one of whom was troubled and lived in a community care facility. Cindy's lease had not been renewed and she was desperately looking for some where to live. She was travelling to Colfax to stay with her brother for a few weeks. But on the way there, she had met a fellow traveller on an earlier section of the train trip with whom she hit ot off remarkably well. They had talked and shared their lives and felt they were both kindred spirits. Both of an age around 60s, they had decided to stay in touch when her new friend alighted the train at Sacramento. Later, the friend's adult daughter Rachel rang Cindy and they shared a whole lot about their lives together too. There was talk that maybe Cindy and Rachel's mother could get something together. When it came time to disembark the train at Colfax, Cindy got hopelessly stuck as she couldn't naviagate the aisles and doors with her belongings; her sugar starting to pour out onto the floor before the guard caught it in time. Her disembarkation was a complete fiasco, but she kept her head and although very stressed, she finally managed to get the chair onto the ramp and out of the train, whereupon those on the platform sprang into spontaneous applause for her. Needless to say, I accidentally put my psychologist's hat back on and thought through a number of different scenarios about the story I had heard. I was not silly enough to intervene, but Cindy's story did help me pass the time as I gazed out the windows at lofty escarpments, Chris with his earphones in listneing to music, and me listening to Cindy's incredible story she told not at not at all sotto voce.

    We disembarked the train ourselves at Truckee, a small but very historic town from both the frontier days as Easterners travelled acorss the land to the West, and from the goldrush era. Truckee looked like it was still in the goldrush era, a movie set as men would ride into town, tie up their horses and head for the saloon. We caught the local bus the 40 minute drive out to Lake Tahoe where we checked in to the Sunnyside Lodge, a typical ski resort lodge full of timber, bear heads, antlers, giant fireplaces made of stone, you know the kind of thing. We've had a comfortable three days here, eaten several times out on the Lodge's deck that over looks the lake and the Sierra Nevada mountains on the eastern shore. It is picture postcard stuff and reminded me very much of Queenstown in New Zealand.

    Lake Tahoe is huge. It is the third largest fresh water lake in North America and tenth in the world. It is 35km long, nineteen across and 114km in circumference. Its average depth is 300m or 1000 feet, but its deepest point is 1695 feet or over 500 meters. It's west of Carson City and South of Reno. The state line runs through it. Two thirds of the lake are in California and one third in Nevada. Tahoe City and the dotted towns/villages around the lake are all tourist towns. There is plenty of wildlife here, but I only saw one bear (see video). It is a place that Americans flock to in the summer for the natural beauty and copious outdoor acivities, and in winter for the skiing. Everything here starts to get covered in deep snow from November on, but I have read that Lake Tahoe has seen snow in every month of the year. There is old money here everywhere. The homes dotted through the woods, which runright down to water's edge, are unbelievable. This is no cabin in the woods scenario. Some of these homes would make the Kennedy Compound look like Lego Land. Needless to say, this is Republican country.

    We had a bit of a muck-up with our car hire while here and so abandoned trying to ameliorate the issue altogether. We have been walking and bus-ing around instead. And that's been nice too. Today, to finish our time here, we went for a swim in the lake. We estimated it was about 17 degrees, so pretty chilly upon first entry, but we acclimatised quickly and managed to stay in for about 15 minutes. I swam out to the mooring boats and had a loll. The water is crystal clear. You can see to the bottom in the shallows. We had to have a little kiss while in the water too. The middle aged couple sitting on the shore watching us didn't seem to mind. They were very friendly. Anyway, how can you not! Tahoe is incredibly romantic.

    It would have been wonderful to see some snow around its shores while here, but, maybe next time. Lake Tahoe is an extraordinary place for its sheer size, but also its matchless beauty. I am so glad we came here. Till next.
    Læs mere

  • Adiós San Francisco

    9. september 2018, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    It's farewell to San Fran day. What a week. We've seen so much this week and enjoyed the doing thereof. It's great to be away. But we've packed our bags and headed to the train station to catch the Zephyr which goes all the way to Chicago. I haven't really travelled significant distances by train before, but I could get used to this. It's a large beautiful train with seats that airlines would kill for. Loads of leg room, curtains on the windows. Smooth, comfortable, the staff friendly and super courteous. There's a dining lounge too. We're travelling five hours today over to the Nevada border and getting off at Truckee. My Bradshaws tells me that Truckee is adjacent a wonderful lake that Chris has always wanted to see. Till next.Læs mere

  • Dual Delights

    8. september 2018, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Yesterday was one of those days you remember. We have been in San Francisco just short of a week
    and still have not managed to take a good look at the Golden Gate Bridge. We saw it enshrouded in
    fog on the ferry journey over to Alcatraz, but not close up in all its gleaming glory. So today was the
    day, by hook or by crook. We T-lined it down to the end of the line and began the couple of miles
    walk to get to the base of the bridge. Lots of people passed us on rented bikes and I did have a
    fleeting thought that we should have done that. But I was happy for the walk, as the bridge was in
    sight all the way. Well not in sight exactly.

    The Golden Gate Bridge is rather shy and coquettish. For the entire week we’ve been here, the tops
    of its two pylons and the upper third of its long cables have been hidden in fog. The fog is so
    common-place here that San Franciscans have given it a name. Karl. Karl has played tricks on us all
    week. There is a low band of fog that sits at bridge height that sits over the city, so that often, even
    the tips of the high rise city buildings are not visible. The Golden Gate is no exception. I think Karl
    actually takes delight in hiding the bridge from tourists. Regardless, you can see part of the bridge in
    a few pics.

    Another serendipity was the discovery of Fort Point directly under the bridge. This former 1850s
    Army fort was a fortified gun emplacement that no ship could pass without being sent to the bottom
    of the Pacific. There are three levels and the battlements up on top, the canon emplacements all still there. It was quite amazing to stroll through it, check out some of the photographic information
    guides and get a bit of a feel for the lives of the soldiers during the Civil War. Its four sides surround
    a huge parade ground. The whole time you are in the fort, you can hear the cars going over the
    southern side of the bridge above you. When I say this fort is under the bridge, I mean this fort is literally
    under the bridge and thus, it gives one of the best views of the Golden Gate to be had.

    The Golden Gate Bridge is majestic and beautiful, but I had dinner on Circular Quay in Sydney a week
    ago and gazed upon our own Sydney Harbour Bridge. How do they compare? The Sydney Bridge
    feels like it is more substantial and even though its arch is graceful, the Golden Gate feels just a little
    more so. The arches formed by its cables are not as chunky as the steel in Sydney. However, if I had
    to put money on which bridge was the more seductive, the more enticing, the more entrancing, the more present, I would have to choose Sydney’s. To be fair, Karl hid the top of the Golden Gate the entire time we were there today, so maybe it’s not a valid judgement. I am not sorry to have spent some time with the Golden Gate today. In 1933, the American Society of Civil Engineers made it one of their seven
    wonders of the modern world.

    In the evening, we headed off to opening night of the San Francisco opera season to their Opera
    House to see Cavallleria Rusticana by Mascagni and its companion piece, Pagliacci by Leoncavallo.
    The Opera House was fairly buzzing. All of San Francisco’s society was there for the opening of their
    96th season. Tuxedos and fabulous ball gowns, jewels and shoes, handsome men, beautiful women,
    men in top hats. San Francisco’s Mayor was present and House Minority Leader (for now) Nancy
    Pelosi was there in a box and was given a rapturous ovation – not so many Trump supporters in that
    crowd – and the orchestra struck up the national anthem before the performance started,
    whereupon the whole theatre, all tiers stood to their feet, hand over heart and belted it out.
    Chris and I stood out of respect of course and I hummed along because (1) I don’t share America’s
    taste for nationalism (2) I don’t know all the words, and (3) I’m a lover of a good anthem and it’s a
    great tune. Bring on the La Marseillaise. I even like our own (when it’s done well). Girt by sea is
    bloody fine with me. The Star Spangled Banner was very moving and then we all got down to the operas.

    I haven’t made it a custom to go to the opera in the last decade or so. I used to go more often, but of
    recent years, I’ve concentrated my efforts on symphonic music, chamber music and the occasional recital. So it was with great anticipation to head into this beautiful opera house, which is far more
    ornate, but not over the top like some European houses, than our own Opera theatre in Sydney. A
    fair bit of gold, statuary, heavy curtains with giant tassels of course, and wonderful lighting
    throughout. It’s a round house and the tiers go way up to the ceiling, so you’re a long way from terra
    firma up on those seats. We were situated up on the gallery level. We were actually lucky to get
    tickets at all given the kind of night it was.

    Opera plots are typically silly. There is always death, a hero, a heroine who either dies and sings or who watches her lover die and they both sing. We had three deaths tonight. I think we got our money's worth. But if you get past the schmaltz of it all, there is often a very human theme there to be seen, accompanied by passionate music. I know so many arias without having seen their entire operas so that when something comes on that I recognise, you have one of those ah ha moments. Both of these operas had a few of those moments.

    Just two for now:
    Cavalleria Rusticana had that beautiful orchestral accompaniment that everybody knows and that is always in the top 10 gentlest pieces ever written. Google it and you’ll recognise it straight away. I always wondered where such an orchestral piece fitted into an opera. Now I know. The two protagonists dance to it.
    The second, was in the Pagliacci, where the clown sings THE most famous tenor aria in all
    of opera, Vesti la guibba.

    Our audience was different to Australian audiences, enthusiastically applauding and yelling Bravo at songs’s completion. The stuff of movies come true as I watched. The set was brilliant, the chorus was fabulous, the stars were stars. Standout performances were Marco Berti as Pagliacci and Ekaterina Semenchuk as Santuzza. The audience thought so too. I so enjoyed this experience.

    PS. There is a reason why Akubra have a range of hats. One important offering is the Akubra
    Traveller, a hat I bought a few years ago as a way to travel and still protect myself. You see, the
    Traveller can be squished with impunity. You can stuff it in your bag, flatten it down, and bring it back out again, straighten it up, and it’s fine. Thinking this is the Fall in America now and I wouldn’t need it, I didn’t bring it. I know, right. Dumb! Clearly, I was wrong. The walk in the sun to the Golden Gate Bridge yesterday morning now sees me sporting a glowing face that not even Karl could hide. I got myself a nice sun-burn, something I have studiously avoided for years, and here I go and do it right here in America. I’m off today to buy a baseball cap and some moisturiser.
    Læs mere

  • Edser and May Go to Macys

    6. september 2018, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Today was a slower day. Chris has a cold, so we thought we'd hit the shops instead of traipsing around tourist spots.

    We started in Union Square a lovely large square surrounded by the citadels of commerce. I'd love Newcastle's own Wheeler Place to be a little more Union Square. Are you listening Lord Mayor Nuatali?

    Then on to Macys. Five floors of Menswear, almost all of it on sale with 25% to 50% off. We bought a few things.

    On the way home, we stopped by Alamo Square Park to see the famous Painted Ladies, the private homes that are forever associated with this city. Think Full House credits. A few pics of the Painted Ladies and some city buildings too. Some really stunning architecture.

    A little drink after and a nice Turkish dinner rounded off a lovely day. Till next.
    Læs mere

  • Prison to Prawns

    5. september 2018, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    For those of my readers who were versed in the 1970 Christian best-seller Prison to Praise by Merlin Carothers, you will immediately have tweaked to the title of this Footprint. Today was a big day, covering Alcatraz, Fisherman’s Wharf / Pier 39 and the Castro.

    I visited Alcatraz 30 years ago. Not much has changed. It is still a modern ruin, only more ruin with
    three decades more of wind and weather to wear the old girl down. You probably know already that
    Alcatraz has served in many guises: as a fort, as a federal penitentiary for the worst of the worst, and
    briefly, as a shining beacon for Native Americans.

    The ferry ride over the bay, only about twelve
    minutes, went like clockwork, as you would expect from a company that told us in the peak season,
    right now, they get 5000 visitors to the island every day. The boarding, the disembarking, the lining
    up, the return journey ad libitum when you feel you’ve had enough of The Rock. Everything slick.

    Chris and I spent most of the time doing an audio guided tour through the penitentiary. Again, this
    thing went like clockwork. “Walk to the left. Stop at Cell 248. Look up at the window. Proceed along
    to the left to the big green doors. Go through them and walk to the right side of the room”. I have to
    say that conceptually, being herded around like sheep, felt uncomfortable at first, but I must confess
    that I really enjoyed this tour. The directions, yes they were very specific, enabled hundreds of
    people to be milling and moving through the prison at the one time, all listening at different points
    of their audio. So, though you might think this sounds like chaos, actually, it wasn’t. The audio was
    quite wonderful. Aside from the explanations given, there were sound effects that were very
    realistic and at times, quite chilling.

    For me, I think the worst thing about Alcatraz the prison was the fact of its very nearness to San
    Francisco. On New Years Eve, the prisoners could hear the sounds of music and laughter, of life being lived joyously, all come floating across the water. This incredible beautiful city is so close you could reach out and touch it, but most prisoners saw it only rarely. And apparently, many would not look at it regardless. The idea of life, of freedom, of happiness, of movement, all happening just over there without being able to engage it was just too much. Alcatraz was a prison from 1934 to 1963. There are some pics of the city from the Rock and one or two of the inside of the prison.

    The other wonderful part I wanted to mention was the Native American occupation of the abandoned island in 1969. Many First Nations People went there to protest too many Government broken promises, land loss and exploitative dealings. They occupied the island for nineteen months and their occupation became something of an awakening in First Nations rights in America. While the San Franciscan local authorities wanted to remove them, believe it or not, Richard Nixon ensured they could stay. I understand he was close to his Native American football coach as a young man and this helped to stay the authorities’ hands. Eventually they were removed, but their message emblazoned across Alcatraz’ famous water tank is still there today.

    Chris and I went into a small room in the old fort where they had a humble display telling of the occupation and what it meant to Native American peoples across the country. Loved it.

    What can I say about Fisherman’s Wharf? It’s tired. There are still lots of eateries there. You’re
    supposed to chow down on the clam chowder. We didn’t but saw plenty of others doing so. It
    looked good, but we were not hungry at that stage. It’s all fish at the Wharf, so prawns is where my
    title comes in. Madame Tussauds, Ripley’s Believe It or Not, which I did go to 30 years ago and still
    have a very fetching picture of myself standing next to a life-size statue of the world’s tallest man,
    Robert Wadlow. It’s all still there. Pier 39 was more vibrant, cleaner, more alive and more colourful I must say. I bought a nice little rainbow San Francisco key ring in a souvernir shop. Very happy with
    that.

    Which leads me to the Castro. This gay Mecca is famous the world over as San Fran’s LGBTIQ district
    and made even more famous by the untimely death/murder of Local Councilman Harvey Milk, whose story was told in the recent film 'Milk' where Harvey is played by Sean Penn. The Castro is alive with lots of
    gays and lots of diversty, plenty of places to eat and drink and just to hang out. I liked its vibe very
    much. It is actually very rare for gay people to be in a place where you’re not hopelessly outnumbered by straight people. It's a nice feeling. I would definitely go back next time I’m here if there is ever a next
    time. We did a little shopping there this afternoon and then had a great chat over a beer with a gorgeous barman at a little bar called Blackbirds. So I like the Castro. Till next time.
    Læs mere

  • The Legion of Honor

    4. september 2018, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    After a visit to an American Pharmacy, which I expected to be called a drug store but was not, we Ubered across town high up on one of the hills to visit San Francisco's famous Legion of Honor Museum. I had done a little homework on this place and knew that it houses a very fine collection of art from different time periods and locations.

    It is a very imposing building from the outside with a grand arched entrance. Inside the arch way, it opens out into a large outdoor foyer surrounded by columns, and in the centre, the famous statue by Auguste Rodin, Le Penseur - the Thinker. I've known about The Thinker since childhood and never dreamed I would actually see it. As a matter of fact, I've thought a lot about The Thinker but I'm not sure The Thinker has thought a lot about me. As you can see in the pic, I tried to emulate his pose, but alas, my coordination has never been my strong suit and it's clear from this picture, neither is my proprioception.

    To our great surprise and pleasure, the Legion had on a special exhibition called Truth and Beauty. This was a collection of the Pre-Raphaelites. Now in truth, I did have to read up rather quickly about this band of merry men and yes, they were all men, how they figured that something was lost in the paintings of their own day that they felt they wanted to capture again from the older masters from Rafael and before. So I got to see these guys but also some of the earlier famous artists they were emulating.

    This was very special for me as I got to see my very first live Van Eyck. I had really remembered from my youth Van Eyck's famous picture of the Marriage of Arnolfini which today I accidentally called The Marriage of Gandolfini. The groom had put on a bit of weight. But the Legion was not showing the Marriage. Instead, it was showing Van Eyck's The Annunciation. It really is also a beautiful painting. The Archangel Gabriel arrives and tells Mary that she will be with child. It is so Van Eyck I recognized it immediately without having read its accompanying inscription.

    There was also a lovely painting of Saint Cecilia the patron saint of musicians seated at a keyboard in a bright yellow dress and looking fabulous. Another work that really took hold of me was two little 16th century paintings by Pieter Coecke van Aelst depicting Mary Magdalene and Joseph of Arimathea having just seen Jesus crucified. If you zoom into Mary's face, you can see tears running down her cheeks quite plainly. Also if you look at Joseph's eyes, they are full and sad. Just beautiful.

    There is also an out-of-this-world painting of The Lady of Shalott, which Chris tells me, depicts the lady not permitted to view the world directly, but only through its reflection in a mirror. It was painted by William Holman Hunt. The Pre-Raphaelites seem to have a thing with woman's hair. The larger the better. Every time I saw one of these portraits of some incredible female personage, each one had amazing giant big hair. I was put in mind of Dame Joan Sutherland actually. His skin, her hair, her sheer size.

    The Legion of Honor is not the least bit squeamish about photography in its gallery. There was not a single sign anyway forbidding photography, not even flash photography. Needless to say, I took lots of shots and I'll only share a few of them here. There is only so much one can take of someone else's Gallery experience.

    I feel very lucky and very honored to be here and to see these incredible originals by artists such as Raphael, Rembrandt, Rubens, Albrecht Durer, Botticelli, Rosetti, el Greco and even some impressionists in one of the other rooms, Van Gogh, Degas, Monet, Manet, Pissarro; names I have known and read about my whole life.

    After the gallery, it was time for dinner so we headed on down into Chinatown and ate a small feast. San Francisco's Chinatown is one of the biggest outside of Asia. It is full of glitz and glare and was a welcome relief full of super informality and earthiness. Of course, being in Chinatown, I could hardly not take a photo of the Trans America Building. You will know of course the joke about the guy in the top office of the Trans Am building. He has a pointy head. Till next.

    Sent on the go with Vodafone
    Læs mere

  • A Palace on the Port

    3. september 2018, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Strolling along the Marina district trying to get our first glimpse of the Golden Gate Bridge, which we did, but it was enshrouded in fog, we happened upon the Palace of Fine Arts. Never heard of it. Never knew it was here. But looking back away from the Bridge I spotted this giant domey thing just begging by its sheer size and grand architecture to be visited.

    The Palace of Fine Arts opens up as you wander through it. Built around an artificial lagoon, its truly humungous Corinthian columns rise all around you topped by giant statuary:
    some looked like gods
    ancient heroes
    four women standing around a giant block atop one column all looking in and bending over. I suggested they looked like they were crying, but Chris thought they were all checking their social media on their smartphones.

    The Palace of Fine Arts was built in 1915 for an Expo in San Francisco. Having an expo in the middle of World War I is an interesting idea and a question for another time. I understand the Palace was one of ten Palaces for the Exhibition, the only one still standing . Apparently San Franciscans loved it so much that they set up a Palace of Fine Arts Preservation Society which clearly won the day. Because here it still stands, waiting to be discovered by a couple of Novocastrians looking for a giant bridge.

    Its architecture, based on ancient Roman and Greek styles, is called Beaux Arts. No, I didn't know that the moment I saw it, as in "Ah Chris, notice this fine rotunda with interesting relief on the cupola in the Beaux Arts style". "Why I do declare you're right Stuart." I looked it up in Wiki. One of the original architects, Bernard Maybeck, came to our aid after we left as we were dry and parched and hungry, so headed off into a nice little establishment called Maybecks, with a stunning copper bar, for a beer and chips.
    You can take the Aussie out of Australia but - - - -
    Læs mere

  • Home Away from Home

    3. september 2018, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    What's better than your thirteen and a half hour flight landing? Yes. Getting to your accommodation. We have a super nice Air BnB in Potrero Hill to call home. It's a quite well-to-do neighbourhood that has lots of cafes and restaurants. We are literally surrounded by San Francisco's amazing architecture. Our view down the hill and out over the city is beautiful both day and night. The yellow house on the corner, we can see from our front room and bedroom. We're on a bus route, electrified buses attached to overhead power by two cables, more properly called a trolley bus, so we can get around easily to see this extraordinary city of wood. Lots of shiny red gleaming fire engines. I can see why. America fortunately is learning about coffee and Farleys, just down the street, did the trick for these two barista-spoiled coffeephiles.Læs mere

  • The Flight Out of Egypt or Sojourn in SF

    2. september 2018, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    After a fitful sleep with my head full of Brahms and the airport shuttle wake-up call, I woke rather tired on the day I was about to lose all understanding of sleep and rest. Sydney airport was kind. It’s relatively easy to get around and we both got through security without incident, although, I did lose my little tube of Oral toothpaste. “Not little enough,” said the guard, who insisted the bag must be re-scanned after removal of said offending paste.

    The only thing to say about the flight is that apart from being delayed about two hours, it was without incident. The skies were clear and we had a bumpless flight across the Pacific. We had a nice young chappy coming to San Francisco for the fifteenth time sitting next to us. Not for him the comfort of familiarity of such a flight. He was actually a nervous flyer and also a Catholic. On descent into San Fran, which takes about half an hour, he made the sign of the cross several times and once or twice, bowed his head in solemn prayer. I used to pray at the beginning and end of flights, but I don’t nowadays. I typically just think that if it’s my time, then God must know about it and must have something to do with what’s going on. In other words, I’m happy to leave it alone, get on with my flight and leave it to God. I must say though, that a smidge under fourteen hours on a flight is stretching the friendship of the body and peace of mind. Legs ache, thighs call out, buttocks complain. Australia really is a very long way away from the rest of the world.

    Chris and I ate well, I drank two littlun bottles of Chardy and did my best to sleep. Really, to no avail. I watched an episode of Maigret, the French detective, played by Rowan Atkinson in a dramatic role, which, bizarrely, is set in France with French protagonists, but the whole thing is done in English, with very plain unaffected English as the chosen dialect. Even Maigret’s name is spoken as May Grey. It’s wel-done, but it’s a bit weird.

    I also watched the final instalment of Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows Part 2. This was enjoyable as I have been watching the whole series through again over the last couple of weeks as a preparation for reading Harry Potter and the Cursed Child, my holiday read, set nineteen years after the original books end. Though I had seen this movie before, I was very moved by Snape’s story as I watched it at 11000 meters above the ocean. Snape has been misunderstood for the entire series, hated, vilified, attacked, and yet his actions in secretly protecting Harry from danger because he had been in love with Lily Potter from their childhoods. Never to have the girl he loved, to lose her to murder, and only on his own deathbed, to have the truth come out was and remains incredibly moving. I shed a tear for Snape last night. And you cannot really talk about the character without praising the work of the late Alan Rickman in bringing his tragic story to life.

    Moral to the Story: there’s always something deeper going on than what’s apparent at the surface.

    Successful flight to San Francisco. Tick. Done.
    Læs mere

  • From Brahms to Boeing

    2. september 2018, Australien ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    No matter where you are going in the world, Sydney is and remains an international city. It really is
    extraordinary. At least the bits that everyone marvels over. The bridge, the Opera House, Circular
    Quay, the toaster. Chris and I come down fairly regularly throughout the year to concerts at the OH.
    It really is a remarkable building, even though it is not finished according to the desires of its
    designer Jørn Utzon. I have been to so many concerts in this crimson hall with its wonderful pipe
    organ looking over the vast chasm below it, but I never cease to get a thrill of excitement as members of the
    orchestra slowly wander on to stage and, lost in their own individual worlds, run a few bars of the piece they are about to play. It’s always exciting. When the conductor walks across the stage after they’ve tuned up, there is wonderful silence that ensues as he picks up his baton, looks his charges in the eyes and raised his arms. I will never tire of it.

    Last night we heard an all Brahms concert: the Academic Festival Overture, always fun, and two big
    concertos, the Double Concerto for violin and cello, and the 1st piano concerto. This was a really big
    night. The Double Concerto has a remarkable story. Brahms and his best mate, the most famous
    violinist of the day, Joseph Joachim, had had a falling out some years earlier. They had not been able
    to reconcile but Brahms sent Joachim the score for this concerto for comment, as Brahms himself
    was neither a violinist or cellist. It worked. The interplay between the two instruments is gentle and
    friendly and always collegial. It is as if the violin part is Joachim and the cello part is Brahms himself.
    So, the whole concerto is a musical poem of reconciliation. And it shows.

    The piano concerto in D Minor is one of two that Brahms wrote. It is a piece of great passion,
    solemnity and beauty and he wrote it in his twenties. He debuted it exactly one hundred years
    before I was born, at the age of twenty-six. I think that is truly remarkable. I don’t know what you
    were doing at twenty-six, but I was still finding myself, denying my sexuality, working as a High School
    teacher and being somewhat of a religious nutter. I love this Brahms. There is not a month goes by that I do not play it, either while I’m working or reading. It is one of my most favourite concertos of the genre. The soloists were amazing. I did not know them, but I have a new found respect for Andrew Haveron (violin), Umberto Clerici (cello) and Alexander Gavrylyuk (piano); the SSO’s Chief Conductor David Robertson bringing his usual flair and enthusiasm to the music. Some exciting music awaits in the States, and very soon. A surprise.

    Today, it’s all about airports and luggage and checking in and security and waiting for our flight. It
    was delayed about two hours, so a drink and some rest helped. We’ve read the all the papers, Chris
    has done a bit of sketching already and I have had a go at some fundamentalist homophobes on
    Twitter. We are both just looking forward to getting on the plane and going. Till next.
    Læs mere

  • Leaving Home

    1. september 2018, Australien ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    I haven't been overseas since my honeymoon in 2014. So having a month off and heading to the USA is a pretty wonderful feeling. It's also the first time that Chris and I have been overseas together to anywhere other than New Zealand. So it's pretty special for us both.
    Getting to this point has been a bit of an ordeal. After being quite ill earlier in the year, my client load skyrocketed, so it's been full steam ahead for me ever since May and I feel a bit like I've just fallen over the line to get here. But no more psychologising for a month. Of course since I finished work two days ago, there's been a mad scramble to prepare, but it'll all be worth it.
    On the bus on the way in to the Newcastle Interchange, the bus driver was whistling along to Michael Jackson's Beat It. The music was turned up and this guy could whistle. He was the Dame Joan of whistlers at her coloratura best. This guy couldn't just whistle Dixie, he owned Dixie. So it was hard to resist the upbeat positive vibe in the bus and I feel that, even though I haven't slowed down yet, it's now only a matter of time. We have a wonderful trip planned and I'm going to share it with you as we go. Feel free to dip in and out as you please. Feeling good. See you on the road 😀
    Læs mere

    Start på rejsen
    1. september 2018