traveled in 9 countries Read more
  • Day 21

    Driving from Cordoba to Toledo

    July 18, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    It takes about 3 and a half hours to drive from Cordoba to Toledo on the excellent Spanish roads. We left Cordoba at about 12:30pm and expected to arrive in Toledo at about 4:00pm. However, we were dirving along the motorway and two things coincided - we had to stop for petrol and we did so in sight of a very spectacular old fortress on a hill with old windmills surrounding it.

    After filling the car with unleaded fuel, we could not resist finding the way up the hill towards the fort. In doing so we passed through a beautiful little Spanish town called Consuegra. The fortress dates back to Roman and Muslim times.

    The fortress and the windmills are actually famous. The fort is the home of the Order of Knights of St John of Jerusalem (Hospitallers) from 1197. Before that, in 1097, Diego, son of Mia Cid, lost his life defending the fort against the invading Muslims.

    This town is also the territory of the fictional figure Don Quixote, as described by author Miguel de Cervantes in 1615 in what is considered to be the world's first novel. It was entitled Don Quixote of La Mancha. La Mancha is the Spanish area we drove through today, and it literally means 'the dry land' in Arabic, because it is so dry in the summer months.

    The fort was amazing - a real medieval fortress with towers, long rooms, prisons, cisterns for water, 5m thick walls, a drawbridge, and much more. There was even a chest containing swords and a shield, which Sam immediately picked up and wielded dangerously. There was also an area within the walls into which villagers could flee and bring their cattle, sheep and horses and keep them safe in the event of an attacking army. The main cistern was huge and could have supplied water to the fort for months.

    The windmills date from the 16th century and they are amazing examples of how medieval people milled grain when water was not able to be reliably used to turn wheels and millstones. The huge windmills have huge millstones within them which are ingeniously designed for milling grain. We could climb up inside one of them and see the extraordinary oak wooden mechanisms inside for milling the grain.

    The stop at Consuegra was well worth it, even though we didn't end up pulling into Toledo until about 6 pm.
    Read more

  • Day 20

    More from Cordoba

    July 17, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    The Mosque and Cathedral of Cordoba were astonishing. These buldings dated from 1000 years ago. But there are also Roman walls and remnants of structures which are 2000 years old, from the Roman Empire. There are also amazing buildings from the medieval period which create an incredible mix of architecture on display when walking the streets.

    Cordoba is definitely a fascinating city full of historical interest.

    We stayed in a hotel which is linked to a courtyard of a house which was built in the 15th century. A beautiful hotel and an amazing old courtyard.
    Read more

  • Day 20

    Mezquita and Cathedral

    July 17, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    The most amazing thing to see in Cordoba is the Medieval Mosque and the Renaissance Cathedral that has been built within the Mosque.

    The medieval mosque is huge, one of the biggest in the world. It measures 23,000 square metres, 2.3 hectares, or about 5 acres, under the roof, plus the large courtyard. It is estimated that 40,000 muslims could worship within, or 70,000 could worship in Ramadan standing up. The scale of the place is incredible.

    When the Christians took over the city of Cordoba in about 1250, the Christians built a church within the Mosque. Later, in the Renaissance period, in the 16th century, a larger cathedral was built within the Mosque, but still leaving most of the mosque intact. So the current building is an amalgam of mosque and Christian churches of various sizes.

    What stands out is the pillars and arches of the mosque when inside. The Muslims used the old Roman buildings to scavenge columns and stones which were used in the construction of the huge mosque.

    The mosque is so large that it was built in four stages over a number of centuries, between the ninth century and the 12th century.

    Sam and I went on a tour of the Mosque and Cathedral and were in awe of the architecture and the scale of the building which is over 1000 years old in its earliest stages. It is the third most visited tourist site in Spain behind the Alhambra in Granada and the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona.
    Read more

  • Day 19

    Old city walls and a Roman orator

    July 16, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    The old city walls and gates are amazing to see in Cordoba. The walls are in excellent condition as are quite a few of the old city gates.

    Another famous son of Cordoba is the ancient Roman senator, writer, orator and thinker Seneca. He was born here due to his father being posted here during the Roman occupation during the first century BC. He is one of the most famous ancient Roman thinkers and speakers. I have a book at home which he wrote on rhetoric, how to persuade. He gave some famous speeches in the Roman Senate when later in his life he left Cordoba to become very influential in the capital of the empire, Rome.Read more

  • Day 19

    Jewish Museum in Cordoba

    July 16, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    Even though there are only 16 Jewish families in Cordoba, the Jewish history is so significant here that there is a museum dedicated to that story. RAMBAM, or Maimonides, is a big part of the exhibition, but there is a lot to the story of the Golden Age of Jewish People in Western Europe in the Middle Ages. The Jews were so successful that they almost ruled the country. A famous Jew born in Cordoba became the main vizier of the king and general of the Spanish Army of the Berber kings based in Granada. It is considered to be the only time between the ancient kingdom of Israel and the modern state of Israel that the Jews have been in control of an army. In fact, the country was a Jewish state in all but name due to the influence of the Jews in the royal court.

    The Jews invented a way of using gold mixed with silver to embroider garments which gave them a form of opulence which made whoever wore them look stunning as the light glinted off their clothes. The kings wore these clothes but so did the affluent Jews.

    The Jewish success led to hatred both in Granada and Cordoba and there was a massacres in the fourteenth century which led many Jews to flee.

    There was also an exhibition in the museum commemorating all the Muslim families in Europe who saved Jewish families during the Hitler’s holocaust in World War Two. There were some amazing stories of bravery and courage under threat of death to save their Jewish cousins.

    The Umayyad Caliphate which ruled medieval Spain at the time of Maimonides’ birth was very supportive of the arts, culture, science, religion, architecture, philosophy and learning. They were quite different from Catholic rulers in that respect. They were tolerant of Jews, Muslims and Christians. This is to be contrasted with the Catholic monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella who expelled unconverted Jews and Muslims the minute they took Granada in 1492.

    It was into this tolerant and advanced culture of the Umayyads that Memonides was born and was able to become a learned and respected man. At least for a few decades until things turned sour for the Jews when a less supportive Caliphate took over and RAMBAM fled to North Africa and then Cairo where he joined the large Jewish population there. It was in Cairo that he wrote the Mishnah, simply a work of genius, over ten years. It is for this work that he is best known by the Jews. For non-Jews his works if Philosophy and his work in medicine, science and astronomy that he is best known. He was also a student of Aristotle and he wrote extensively on the famous Athenian philosopher and his arguments and logic.
    In the area of philosophy, his work entitled ‘A Guide for the Perplexed, analyses the apparent tension between faith and reason, between religion and rationality. He argued the truth should be our goal and he acknowledged that the challenges around faith and reason can be perplexing and requires careful thoughtful searching for truth.
    Read more

  • Day 19

    Wandering around Cordoba

    July 16, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    I took the opportunity tonight of wandering around the amazing city of Cordoba. I came across a triumphal arch and forum from the Roman times. Also there is a bridge from Roman times across the river which was an important port from Roman times right through to the Middle Ages. The river silted up, and then the port was moved downstream to Seville in the fifteenth century and Seville took on the port status that Cordoba had previously enjoyed.

    Cordoba was the preeminent city in Western Europe in the eleventh to about the thirteenth century.

    The biggest and best place to visit is the Mosque and Cathedral here in Cordoba. It is a huge Mosque the has maintained its moorish characteristics but operates as a Cathedral. We are on a tour of that amazing landmark tomorrow morning. We saw is from the outside this evening and that was amazing in itself.
    Read more

  • Day 19

    Granada to Cordoba

    July 16, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    Today we rose and left our hotel in the old city of Granada after enjoying breakfast in our quaint hotel. Very typical of old Granada. We picked up our car and drove first to Malaga on the Costs dal Sol. It was not directly on the route to Cordoba, our destination for the day, but we had reason to make a detour. We needed to visit Jim Lily in hospital.

    Jesse and Felisa messaged saying their great uncle was on a tour in Spain and had a fall and ended up in hospital in Malaga. We were able to visit him and his brother Andrew in hospital to show a friendly Aussie face and say hello. They were grateful. We were sorry we couldn’t do more, but we did what we could to cheer them up given the challenges they are facing.

    We continued on the journey to Cordoba and arrived about 4.30pm. We are staying in a really nice hotel in the Jewish Quarter (Juderia) called NH Collection.

    I went on a quick walk around the neighbourhood and discovered we were right next door to one of only three old synagogues from the medieval period in Spain. There is this one and then two in Toledo, our next destination.

    We are also next door to two significant plazas. Maimonides Plaza and Plaza de Tiberia. Both of these plazas commemorate one of Cordoba’s most famous sons - Moses Maimonides, also known as RAMBAM, an acronym for his full name. He is probably the most famous of all Jewish Rabbis. I remember visiting his burial site in Tiberius in the shores of Galilee when I was in Israel. He was a Jewish Philosopher, doctor of medicine, rabbinical scholar and prolific writer. He had to flee Spain because of Jewish persecution during his lifetime, but he is remembered as one of the greatest Sephardic Jewish leaders of all time. Oh yes, he also wrote the Mishnah Torah , the greatest commentary on the Jewish Torah ever written and still studied by Jewish scholars today.

    Maimonides has all kind kinds of things named after him in the city, including streets, shops, restaurants, hotels, plazas, museums and so on. Ironic given that all Jews, including Maimonides, were expelled from Spain. So effective was this expulsion that instead of the 30,000 Jews in Cordoba in his days, there are now only 16 Jewish families in this city. Not even enough to keep a synagogue going. The old synagogue is closed for renovations and it is a museum owned by the city, there being not enough Jews to keep a synagogue going.
    Read more

  • Day 19

    Museum and Flamenco

    July 16, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    I visited a museum of the Inquisition and Sephardic Jewish history in the evening, followed by a flamenco concert.

    The museum told the tragic story of the Inquisition coming to Granada and targeting Jews and Muslims who had chosen to stay rather than flee. They had to convert. They were known as conversos. The Inquisition tested whether they had really converted or whether they were merely putting on a facade of conversion in public but still practicing their own religion in private.

    The Inquisition had the power of the church and the king behind it so it’s power was enormous and much to be feared. The museum explained the process of trials and punishment in gruesome detail. There is very little left of Jewish people or culture in Granada as a consequence of the efficacy of the Inquisition.

    After visiting the museum and seeing the sun set over the Alhambra, I went to a Flamenco concert which was a fascinating insight into a very Spanish form of music and dance which has its roots in the amalgam of the cultures of gypsies, Moors and slaves here in Granada. The guitar playing, the dancing, castanets, foot stomping and Flamenco costumes are amazing.
    Read more

  • Day 19

    Granada Cathedral

    July 16, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    The Granada Cathedral could not be constructed until the Christians had regained control of Granada in 1492. The foundations were laid in 1518 on the site where the mosque had stood. The Cathedral was one of the first to be built in the renaissance style whereas most of the Cathedrals that predated this one were built in the Gothic architecture of the Middle Ages. This Cathedral was therefore cutting edge architecture. To stand in it is to feel that one is standing in a Greco Roman temple of massive scale due to its classical influences which at the time were new and untried.

    The wealth and history of Granada and its art are on display in this building.
    Read more

  • Day 18

    More of the Alhambra

    July 15, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Some more photos of this amazing palace and fortress.
    Our guide was excellent. Her name was Irene. She reminded me of Priscilla in her younger days. She spent seven years studying to be a guide. She told us that the financial crisis of a couple of years ago has made it very difficult for younger people in Spain to get a job and many of her friends have had to go abroad to find employment.Read more

Join us:

FindPenguins for iOSFindPenguins for Android