• skip's retirement travel
  • skip's retirement travel

Egypt

A 29-day adventure by skip's retirement travel Read more
  • Trip start
    April 9, 2021

    Egypt Museum

    April 9, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The old museum, located at Tahrir Square (see another post). The new museum is still in construction, but you may have seen the news about the celebration/parade of mummies from the old to the new. Unfortunately, I missed that by a week.
    The 1st picture is of a couple death masks from about 3500 years ago. 2nd is a racing chariot. 3rd is a look over the main hall of the museum. You can see statues, sarcophagi, and more. 4th is a pyramidal capstone with engravings. 5th is a detail of some hieroglyphics. Last is a traditional couch, looking from the head towards the footboard.
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  • Tahrir square

    April 9, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Aka Martyr Square. The name may be familiar from 10 years ago. This is where the Arab Spring happened in Egypt. The national Museum uis along at one end. (see another post).
    2 pictures at night and 2 during the day.Read more

  • Saqqara

    April 10, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    The step pyramid of Djozer is located on high ground at the edge of the desert next to the Saqqara Oasis. This was designed by Imhotep, probably the most famous of the Egyptian architects/intellectuals/advisors of the pharaohs. The step pyramid predates the more famous pyramids by hundreds of years.
    The 1st picture is the step pyramid itself. 2nd is in the access to the pyramid complex through the funerary temple of Djozer. In the 3rd, I'm standing in an access way to one of the underground passages beneath the pyramid, while the 4th looks along one of those passages, even though it's officially closed. The 5th peeks into a hidden chamber with a statue of the king. The last looks over some more of the pyramid complex.
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  • Tombs at Saqqara

    April 10, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    The Saqqara complex includes many tombs from the early part of Egyptian history. In addition a number of pharoahs (not just Djozer), high ranking clerks, pharaonic officials, etc. Are interred here.
    These pictures are all tombs of those lesser officials, even though they are closed to the public. I met a guy with keys and was given private access to several of these. Talk about blessing!
    What's important here is that all the carvings, paints, statues, etc., are original (no reconstructions). I was so blown away by these that I neglected to record the names of the persons interred. I'll let these all speak for themselves. It's too bad that the pictures don't do the artistry justice.
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  • Giza

    April 10, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Well, here they are. Of course, the only remaining of the 7 wonders of the ancient world need no introduction. Egypt has fascinated me for many years, and I've long wanted to visit here, with the pyramids at the top of the must see list. I've said before that seeing places like this on TV or in pictures just doesn't do justice to the real thing.
    The 1st picture is my arrival at Giza. The 2nd is the classic photo of the 3. Pictures 3,4&5 provide some details of the current state of the pyramids. And the last is a small look at the Sahara nearby.
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  • Sphinx

    April 10, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    The other important and famous structure at Giza is, of course, the Sphinx. I won't get into all the theories about the origin of this monumental statue, except to say that it was created from a single rock, carved in place. It is said that it was intended to guard the monuments to the pharoahs.
    Unfortunately, the sun was at the wrong angle to get a good picture of the face. The first 4 pictures are various views of the sphinx. The last two are in the temple along side the sphinx.
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  • Cairo Citadel

    April 11, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Originally built by Saladin in the 12th century on a high ridge over Cairo. It served as the seat of government until the 19th century. Various rulers added to the fortress complex over the years. Unfortunately, much of the original construction was replaced in the 19th century, call it "urban renewal," including the attendant gentrification by building palaces instead of fortifications.
    The 1st picture is a part of the citadel from outside. The 2nd is the prison museum. At least it isn't a dungeon. It is a row of cells in the middle of the fortress, some with barred doors, others with solid steel doors.
    The main feature in the citadel these days is the mosque of Mohammed Ali (no, not that one). Pictures 3&4 are the 2 courtyards around the mosque while the 5th is inside. This mosque us designed based on the Blue Mosque in Istanbul. (There is a post of the Blue Mosque among those from my 1st visit to Turkey.)
    The last picture is the view over Cairo from the citadel
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  • Virgin Mary Coptic Church

    April 11, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    This is a 4th century Coptic Church dedicated to Mary. As you might expect, there are many, many icons here that differ from what we, in the west, might be used to seeing (which are mostly Greek or Russian Orthodox). The first 2 pictures are two of the icons while the 3rd shows several more along one wall of the sanctuary. 4&5 look a bit closer at the sanctuary. The 6th is a trap door in the floor of the sanctuary. It was where Christians would escape when they came under attack.Read more

  • St George Greek Orthodox Church

    April 11, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    This is a round Greek Orthodox Church built on top of an old, perhaps Roman tower, hence it's locsl nickname as the Hanging Church. There is a seminary here and a monastery not far away.
    The first 3 pictures are in the church sanctuary. As you might imagine, there are more St. George icons here than I could count. The 4th picture is one of the oldest. The 5th looks through a cave like structure that has many of the icons, the one on the far wall is one example. The last picture is a 4th century baptismal font.Read more

  • San Sergio's or Cave Church

    April 11, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Much is made here of the flight of the Holy Family from Herod's Slaughter of the Innocents. This church is on the site of a cave where the Holy Family is reported to have sheltered.
    The 1st picture is a small chapel in the very cave. At the bottom you can see a bit of the original cave. The 2nd is self explanatory. 3rd is an example of coptic/arabic translation. This church dates to before the switch to arabic and so has a collection of works from that period.
    4th is inside the church.
    Last is a map showing the journey of the Holy Family in Egypt. I'm told there are records from the time identifying where they stayed.
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  • Old Cairo

    April 11, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    These are mostly various street scenes of part of the old city. What impressed me is the presense of Coptic, and Greek Orthodox churches, synagogue and mosques all together. The churches are covered in following posts. Ben Ezra synagogue doesn't allow photos, but can be found online. They say that they have the basket Moses was found in preserved in the center of the sanctuary. The last picture is the 1st mosque in Africa. It was closed for a funeral when I was there.Read more

  • Alexandrian Catacombs

    April 12, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    The catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa dating to the 2nd century is a necropolis of the pharaonic funeral cult with several cultural influences from Greece and early Rome. I confess to being surprised to find underground structures this close the the sea.
    The 1st picture is the central access shaft around which a spiral staircase leads down into the catacombs. The rest of the pictures are in the catacombs, showing structure, niches and decoration.
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  • Pompey's villa

    April 12, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Pompey was an important general and rival of Julius Caesar. This is the location of his home in Alexandria. While mostly in ruins a few structures remain. The most well known is his pillar in the center of the site (1st picture). The next 4 pictures are various looks at the remains and archaeological work.
    The last picture is of a Serapeum, an underground temple of the Greco-Egyptian cult of Serapis based on the worship if the sacred Apis Bull.
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  • Citadel

    April 12, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    This is a 15th century fortress on the end of a peninsula where the ancient lighthouse, The Pharos, was located before it was destroyed by an earthquake. The current structure is sa reconstruction.
    The 1st 3 pictures are the building as it is now. The other 3 look at the view from the walls, looking at the east harbor, the breakwater at the harbor entrance and the Mediterranean Sea.
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  • Roman Amphitheater Complex

    April 12, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    This complex dates to the 4th century and differs from the many such sites I've seen, especially in Turkey (see several posts in the Turkey 2 section). What makes this site different is that, in addition to the theater itself, there are auditoria or small lecture halls, a large bath, and a residential area.
    The 1st picture overlooks the entire site. The 2nd picture is an auditorium or lecture hall. 3rd is the remains of the baths, and the 4th is the entrance to the hypocaust or heating system for the baths. The 5th overlooks the remains of the residential section. The last is a preserved floor mosaic of birds.
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  • Aswan High Dam

    April 13, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Major water reserve and hydroelectric power station built by the Soviet Union during the 1960s. At the time, it was the longest earthen dam.
    The first 3 pictures look at the dam from the top, facing down stream. The 4th looks across Lake Nasser, upstream of the dam.
    The last picture is of the garden planted along the top of the dam. The waterproof core of the dam was built with local silica. In oder to remain waterproof, the silica must be kept wet. They accomplish this by watering the garden with the excess percolating inside the dam to maintain the core's to integrity.
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  • Philae Temple

    April 13, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    One of the dozens of temples relocated to preserve them after the building of the Aswan High Dam (see another post) and the subsequent flooding of Lake Nasser. The temple is on an island between the older British built low dam and the newer high dam. It is primarily Greco-Roman in style, linking it most closely with the Ptolemaic dynasty.
    The temple was dedicated to the worship of Isis. The 1st 4 pictures are of the temple and some details of the carvings.
    After the 4th century and Christianity became the religion of the Roman empire, the building was repurposed as a Greek Orthodox Church. The 5th picture is the stone altar for the church.
    Lastly, this was the site of the upstream "nileometer" used to guage the annual floods (see another post coming later, I hope). The last picture is that gauge. It is a series of steps, each one is one Egyptian Arm, their unit of measurement.
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  • Nilometers

    April 13, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    I have known that the pharoahs had a gauge near the 1st cataract to measure the height of the Nile, especially during the annual flood. I had understood this to be a means of knowing whether the flood would be in the optimal range for good crops, too low meaning drought and bad harvests, or too high with destructive floods. It turns out this is only partly true. They were also used to determine taxes, and every city had its own nilometer to gauge the flood in that specific location to accurately determine taxes based on local conditions rather than a generalized single reading. Apparently local conditions varied enough to make this locally important.
    The 1st picture is of the one I knew about, one of the 2 at the Philae Temple (see another post) near Aswan below the 1st cataract. The others are at Kom Ombo, Edfu and Hatshepsut's temple on the west side of the Nile at Luxor, respectively. These are all located at temples (see other posts).
    I note that the nilometer for Luxor (east bank) would likely be at Old Luxor. As that location has only recently been discovered, excavation is ongoing and not open to visit.
    In case you're wondering, one of my responsibilities in a "previous life" involved work in both surface and groundwater hydrology. Hence my interest in 4,000 year old approaches to the science
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  • Rose Granite Quarry

    April 13, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Rose granite has been quarried in Aswan for millennia. This is the stone used in the pyramids, for bases under statues, and more. The most significant may be as the material from which obelisks were made.
    The 1st 3 pictures look at the quarry and at some of the marks showing where the stone was worked. The figure to be cut was marked then drilled along the line with copper chisels. The drill holes were filled with wood then soaked. The wood then expanded and the rock cracked along the line. A similar procedure was used under to free the piece. In this case, a lot of wood was used, which at least partially floated during flooding, lifting the stone after breaking it free.
    Probably the best known piece today is the unfinished obelisk in pictures 4, 5 & 6. The long crack was the problem. The transverse cracks occurred later during an earthquake. There are markings from the works that may be hard to see, including the beginning of the underneath cut.
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  • Abu Simbal, Rameses II

    April 14, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Famous rock cut temple in upper Egypt/Nubia. This was carved out of the native rock in the 13th century BCE as a commemoration of Rameses victory in the battle of Kadesh. Most of the wall decoration shows this. This is probably the most famous of the temples raised above Lake Nasser after the high dam (see another post) was complete and would have flooded the monument.
    The 1st 2 pictures are of the famous facade. The 3rd is the doorway into the temple, the 4th shows the statues in the 1st hall inside. The last 2 are examples of the carving and painting on the walls.
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  • Abu Simbal, Hathor and Nefertari

    April 14, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    I had not known that there is a second smaller temple at Abu Simbal, dedicated to Rameses chief wife, Nefertari and to Hathor, the mother goddess involved in creation. Hathor also has a major role in the death mythos.
    The 1st picture is the facade with statues in niches that are a lot smaller than the Rameses collosi on the Rameses temple (see the other post). These are statues of Rameses and Nefertari. It is interesting to note that this is one of the few times in Egyptian art that statues of the king and queen are of equal size.
    The rest of the pictures are of the interior and the decoration of the walls. Here the art depicts Nefertari rather than Rameses as in the larger temple.
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  • Cruising the Nile

    April 15, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    All except the 1st, these are various glances at the Nile River from the top deck of the Chateau Laffayette our cruise ship. The Nile has a reputation as majestic river. It's richly deserved. It makes it clear why this river was so important in the development of civilization.
    By the way, I have no idea why Laffayette in the name of the ship has 2 Fs.
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  • Kom Ombo

    April 15, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    An unusual double temple, one side dedicated to Sobek, the crocodile headed god and the local deity as this is a prime spot for crocs. The other half is dedicated to Horus. If you look carefully, at the top of the 1st picture, there is a notch, below which is a line dividing the gate. The next 3 pictures are of the wall carvings. This is the only place in Egypt where Isis is depicted with a lion's head.
    Also, behind the main parts of the double temple is a hospital area dedicated to Imhotep. Not only was he an architect (the step pyramid, see another post) and an advisor to pharoahs, he was a medical innovator. The 5th picture is of a carved panel depicting medical devices used at the time, most of which are recognizable as essentially implements still used today.
    They kept a single croc in the temple depicting the god. It was kept on a gold chain. When one died, it was mummified and entombed. The last picture is of several of these croc mummies.
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  • Edfu Temple

    April 16, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The temple of Horus at Edfu as it currently exists from the Ptolemaic period was begun in the 3rd century BCE. It is built on the site of a smaller temple to Horus dating to at least the time of Rameses I. This is among the best preserved temples in Egypt. This is the largest temple dedicated to Horus and is the center for the mist important festivals celebrating Horus. Much of the artwork celebrates the victory of Horus over Seth as revenge for Seth killing Osiris, Horus father.
    The 1st picture is of the entry pylons. The rest of the pictures look at various details of the temple.
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  • The Valley of the Kings

    April 17, 2021 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Possibly related to attempts to deter tomb raiders, it is said that architect Ineni was asked to find a new place for royal burials. He located this isolated wadi at the foot of "ta dehent," a pyramidal peak reminiscent of the pyramids (see 1st 2 pictures). It is in a remote area that was extremely hard to access up until a road was excavated and rock cut to provide easier access. The 3rd picture looks around the valley.
    I visited 4 tombs which each will have their own posts.
    To date 63 tombs have been found and these are identified as KV 1 to KV 63.
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