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The Balkans
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October 2021

The Balkans

A 29-day adventure by skip's retirement travel Read more
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  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelThe Balkans

    Kotor Bay, Montenegro

    October 25, 2021 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    The Bay of Kotor, aka The Boka, is a long (about 28 km) and winding bay off the Adriatic that might be described as being like a fjord. For those familiar with the Hudson Valley, think Hudson Highlands, north of Peekskill and around West Point. This a beautiful area that has seen human activity since prehistoric times.
    All 6 pictures are of various places along the bay. The 1st picture looks over the town of Herceg Novi to the mouth of the bay and the Adriatic Sea. The last picture looks back down the bay from San Giovanni fortress over the newer part of the well known tourist town of Kotor (see another post). The other 4 pictures are at locations in between.    Read more

  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelThe Balkans

    Mosaic Museum, Risan, MNE

    October 25, 2021 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    (NB: MNE is an abbreviation for Montenegro.)

    This museum is in the ruins of a 2nd century Villa Urbana from the time of Hadrian. The site was excavated, finding these misc (and a few more). I find it especially interesting in that this is the 1st time I've seen anything like this in situ. The mosaics are where they found them.
    The town of Risan is said to be the oldest on Kotor Bay (see another post), and it's most prosperous time during the Roman period was when this villa/museum was built.
    All 6 pictures are of the mosaics. All are black and white except the most famous in the 1st 2 pictures. It is likely that these mosaics were made by artisans from the Roman center in Salona near Split (see another post).
    The exception to the black/white color scheme is that famous mosaic in the 1st 2 pictures: the 1st showing the room and the 2nd a detail of the central design. The reclining figure is the Greek god Hypnos, the god of sleep. It is said that this may be the only mosaic anywhere depicting this god.    Read more

  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelThe Balkans

    Perast, MNE

    October 25, 2021 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Perast is another small old town (only 1 street) on the bay of Kotor. It is perhaps best known for being close to the islands of St. George's and Our Lady of the Rocks. History here dates to the Neolithic period, but what we see of the town today dates primarily to the Venetian period starting in the 15th century.
    The 1st picture is of the town from the small ferry out to Our Lady of the Rocks Island which is in the 2nd picture, taken from the same ferry. The main building on the island is the eponymous church. The 3rd picture is in the nave. This is the only artificial island in Kotor Bay (see another post), said to have been started by fisherman in the 15th century after finding an icon of the Madonna and Child on a rock. The 4th picture is of St. George's Island, again taken from the ferry. This is now a closed monastery not open to the public.
    The last 2 pictures are in the small town of Perast. One is an old church who's name I don't know, and the other is a typical side "street" in this hillside town at the edge of the bay.    Read more

  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelThe Balkans

    Kotor, MNE

    October 25, 2021 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Kotor is a walled town at the head of the eponymous bay (see another post), surrounded by overhanging limestone cliffs. As seems typical of this part of the world, most of what we see was built by the Venetians though history here dates back to at least the Roman period, if not earlier. This is one of the best preserved medieval walled towns and is a UNESCO site.
    The 1st picture looks almost straight down on the old town from San Giovanni fortress on the cliffs above. The 2nd and 3rd pictures are of a couple of the narrow medieval streets the town is famous for. The 4th and 5th pictures are taken at the north gate and show the medieval walls, though the purpose of the waterworks isn't clear to me.
    The last picture looks over some unidentified ruins right across the street from the very head of the bay. To me, they look like a lot of Roman ruins I have seen, but I haven't found anything to confirm that.
    In sum, this is a beautiful and interesting part of the world that is well known for tourism. And rightfully so.    Read more

  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelThe Balkans

    Niksic, MNE

    October 27, 2021 in Montenegro ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Niksic is mostly an industrial city, 2nd only to Podgorica, the national capital, in both industrial output and population. The history of the town gies back at least to the pre-Roman Illyrian Kingdom.
    Perhaps the most striking building in Niksic is the Orthodox Cathedral Church of St. Basil of Ostrog (see additional post), even though it only dates to the 19th century. The 1st picture is of the facade, while the next 2 pictures are i side the church.
    The 4th picture is Independence Square, the main square in town. The last is a city park adjacent to the cathedral.    Read more

  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelThe Balkans

    Ostrog Monastery, MNE

    October 27, 2021 in Montenegro ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Ostrog is a Serbian Orthodox Monastery dedicated to St. Basil of Ostrog who died and whose bones are kept here as relics over which the faithful pray. The monastery was founded in the 17th century, but the current look dates to the 1920s when it was rebuilt after a fire. The 2 cave churches here were spared by the fire and retain the frescos painted on the natural rock walls and ceilings. Unfortunately, photography was prohibited.
    The 1st picture looks along the building where offices, monastic cells, etc. are located. The main church in the 2nd picture is not visible just beyond the far end. The 3rd picture are a few of the mosaics created directly on the rocks outside one of the cave churches.
    The last 2 pictures are of the view from the monastery. This place is way up on the side of a vertical cliff, and while there is a road up here, my stomach assured me that the narrow road, cut into the cliff, is not one I would care to drive or even walk along. Yet, the monastery and the view are worth the trip.    Read more

  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelThe Balkans

    Dajbabe Monastery

    October 27, 2021 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Dajbabe Monastery, also referred to as St. Simeon's by locals, dates only to the 19th century. However it is an extraordinary place. The church is entirely within caves near Podgorica, the Montenegran capital. One of the natural cave rooms has a reliquary with St. Simeon's bones. I didn't photograph it as it's an open casket with his remains covered in fabric. It just seemed inappropriate.
    Most of the surfaces of the caves have been painted with all manner of art. It is said that St. Simeon painted all of it.
    The 1st picture is the natural cave entry that opens up into several rooms to the left and right as well was straight ahead. Looking straight ahead is the room with St. Simeon's relics and then another room beyond with the icons that are visible.
    The rest of the photographs are a few looks at St. Simeon's artwork in the various rooms.
    The place is not quite like anywhere I've been. There are narrow passageways (I had to twist my shoulders) that also have low ceilings. It takes some effort to visit it all, even though it is quite small. I understand that the art is all original and not restored. ISTM that St. Simeon painted as he was inspired rather than as pre-planned, organized frescoes as what I usually see seem to be. I was quite moved by it all.    Read more

  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelThe Balkans

    Castle of Lezhë, Albania

    October 28, 2021 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    This is a fortress dating back to pre-Roman times with most of what remains being Venetian. The Albanian medieval leader who led a rebellion against the Venetians, died here and was buried in the church of the local Benedictine monastery that is now a ruin. It has been made a monument to this national hero.
    The 1st picture looks up at the fortress from a distance. It is a large structure and sits atop a high ridge close to 200 meters above the town of the same name. The 2nd picture approaches the wall and the gate. The 3rd picture looks across some of the ruins inside the walls, probably the palace area. The 4th is one of the gates, but not the one in use for visitors. The last 2 pictures are of the view from the top, giving a look at this part of Albania.    Read more

    Trip end
    October 29, 2021
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