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  • TravelerThe Camino
    Day 51

    Last entry I promise - to the town of Mu

    July 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Final steps into the little town of Muxia.
    From the parador we walked along the path behind the beach back onto the Camino for the last time.
    The path curves along by the quiet road into Muxia.
    Muxia is on a headland with the town stretching from the port on one side to the bay on the other. The iconic chapel and ‘stone boat’ are out on the headland. First we went to explore the port side and of course came across first, James, about to set off on the bus to Santiago! He’s really quite an unlikely Camino soulmate but seems to be the person who inevitably pops up at every significant moment. Then as we were drinking coffee, Alan and Janet walked past - also on their way to the bus but in this case to Finisterre as they had walked the Muxia route and were going on to spend a few days in Finisterre. They are bound for a Japanese Camino next apparently. Also met up with Geoff and Sailor, father and daughter from Chicago who we fist came across at Santa Marina - Casa Pepa. So many great people.
    Delicious churros with the coffee.
    Then out to the rocks, the chapel, the Herida sculpture and the real ending - although there have been a few. We were blessed with perfect weather again, clouds and sun making for a dramatic backdrop to a dramatic landscape.
    After climbing to the very top where we could look down on both sides of the town as well as across to the parador and further we walked back into the town to find some lunch. On the way we saw what I think must have been dolphins chasing a shoal of fish which was extremely exciting
    Lunch in a little restaurant in a street behind the port was perfect - salad, local bread, padrón peppers and chips (and fish for Richard).
    It took about 45 minutes to walk back to the parador - I chose to walk along the beach (Richard had stayed behind in the town to get a couple of presents).
    I’ve clearly and very evidently run out of superlatives for this whole experience and this area. All I can say is, if you’re reading this and tempted to try it, do it!! It’s a unique and very special experience.
    I’m in the process of applying to be a hospitalero at Guacelmo in the future and really hoping I’ll be accepted - maybe even for next year. I definitely feel the need to give something back for my Camino.
    Also still hoping there will be others!
    Stop press: bumped into my German friend at the airport (he of the vegan hostels who was not vegetarian and didn’t like the food and didn’t speak a word of English or Spanish - and I speak no German). So regardless of the fact that we can’t understand each other at all we had a hug and a ‘conversation’ somehow. He is on his way back to Frankfurt - he loved his Camino, got his Compostela and continued on to Finisterre and Muxia. Having been his dorm companion for several nights it felt very sad to say goodbye.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Camino
    1
    Day 50

    Finisterre to Muxia - the real ending

    July 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We set off from Finisterre in cool cloud which was lucky as it was another pretty long walk (25km). We came across a very welcome donativo house offering coffee, fruit and snacks where we stopped for a while, in Buxán. The woman who ran it was Falician but had lived in the UK in Chichester for 19 years so spoke perfect English. She was reading a huge hardback copy of Women Running with wolves. I’m inspired to read it.
    The sun was out by the time we stopped to have breakfast at a hotel bar looking over another beautiful beach. From here although warm in the sun there was plenty of shade as the path led through trees for much of the time. It was quite hard going - a lot of steep climbs and then some rocky downhill parts. We had a second coffee in Lires and the headed off the main Camino path just before Muxia to reach the parador at Costa da Morte.
    The path was mainly inland and although we were parallel to the sea the whole time we rarely saw it. Lots of wind turbines though - Galicia is definitely committed to renewable energy.
    The Costa da Morte parador is an extraordinary hotel - built very recently into the hillside - at first sight a bit like a telly tubby house. The floors go down rather than up (reception is zero and then down to the rooms from there) and the lift goes sideways as well as down. Quite surreal. But all beautifully designed. Hotels are generally not my best thing but this is the most beautifully designed one I’ve ever stayed in and I would love to return.
    The room was striking with lots of interesting features (like a loo that lights up at night!). It had a view over a green flowery meadow to what is undoubtedly the loveliest beach I’ve ever seen or been to. A perfect y red ent of white sand, crystal clear blue water and deserted! Nothing around it except the hotel and that is designed into the hillside. Added bonus that the path down while it starts reasonably easy, is relatively long and ends with a bit of a scramble onto the beach so most people seem to be out off by that and don’t bother going down there. Perfect for those who do go! But I guess that’s very selfish! No umbrellas or infrastructure of any kind so only for the dedicated swimmer!
    I loved it!
    We didn’t walk into Muxia immediately but had some lunch, rested, and went to the beach leaving the very last part of the Camino to the next day.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Camino
    Day 49

    Cee to Finisterre - to the end of the wo

    July 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    This was a short day in principle - only about 12km to Finisterre town but then another 3.5 km each way up to the lighthouse and point zero. We were close to the sea for most of the way and caught our first glimpse of the lighthouse and the official end of the journey through a gateway looming over the sea.
    As we arrived at the beginning of the long beach leading into the town I met James again. He has always seemed to appear at key moments of my Camino and this was no exception. He was leaving for a two day saunter to Muxia with a new camino friend - Dirk (who had walked the Norte). These Camino connections are quite extraordinary.
    We dumped our bags, very gratefully at our accommodation and had a cold drink in town, before continuing up to the lighthouse. Quite a hot and long uphill trudge but all worth it for the exhilarating feeling of reaching the end. Actually, to me mixed with sadness as I didn’t want to finish. I’m pleased and grateful for having been able to manage this journey but so very sad that I am no longer a pilgrim, with all my stuff on my back and in a new place every night.
    We spent a while at the lighthouse, drank a beer, took photos, and then it was time to walk back down into the village.
    Just before reaching the main part of a Finisterre there was a beautiful beach so we spent s bit of time there swimming before heading back to our room.
    This was a cabana right on the other side of town - perfect for setting off to wards Muxia in the morning but a bit out of the way for getting in and out of town. It was beautifully equipped and even had a hot tub (indoor) but I wasn’t really feeling up to doing anything other than eating and going to bed as the sore throat I’d had for a few days had now definitely developed into a very tiresome cold. So the lovely accommodation was a bit wasted on me as I just slept - but the bed was very comfortable which helped a bit.
    Before expiring for the night we found a great little restaurant in the town which specialises in local cuisine/produce but also has a number of vegetarian/vegan options. Also very good local wine with my new favourite godello grape. I have to say we only found this place as a result of completely failing to find the place where I could get my Finisterre certificate which had closed by the time we eventually located it. I might be able to apply by post but assuming that doesn’t work then it’s something to look forward to another time.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Camino
    111
    Day 48

    Santa Marina to Cee - new resolutions

    July 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We left Santa Marina just after dawn this morning - a beautiful sunrise and not raining.
    The air was cool but perfect for walking in a t shirt.
    Early landscapes were misty and very quiet. Having not walked a ‘Brierley’ stage yesterday we have been pretty much alone - only one other walking pilgrim so far.
    However, despite all the loveliness I’m feeling very sad. The agriculture here is basically a mono culture of maize - I’m guessing to feed the cows, who are horribly confined in dark smelly barns. Unlike the countryside before Santiago where the cows were grazing in the open, here there are no fields with cattle - only endless fields of sweetcorn interspersed with huge barns full of dirty looking cows. I will have to be vegan again I think - no option when I have things like that imprinted on my memory!
    Anyway things improved after walking through Obreiroa and Hospital. We were into wild moorland with not a sweetcorn plant to be seen. Just heather and pines and huge rocks - the latter useful for sitting on to eat our lunch. Lunch was two days old Tetilla and bread, crisps, bananas and Coca Cola. I was so hungry and still had about 15km to go.
    It was a long day - 33km in all - but lovely second half. Very quiet. There were two tiny chapels (Capela das Neves and Capela De San Pedro Mártir) with healing waters where we took a break briefly (I threw some on my head!!) but as we were still quite a long way from Cee at 3pm we really had to keep moving.
    The final downhill into Cee was steep but the view of the sea made it exciting. My feet were beginning to complain a bit by this time and by the time we reached the hotel I was ready to drop. The room was comfortable and after a shower and a short rest we went out to explore the town, have a drink and find something to eat.
    Most places were closed as it was Sunday but we found a bar for a glass of wine and then a great restaurant with gourmet level veggie food (thanks again to Happy Cow) so I was happy.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Camino
    Day 47

    Negreira to Santa Marina

    July 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Negreira was in major celebration mode last night - there were fireworks fairly early but then the music went on ALL NIGHT! Luckily we were far enough away from the centre on town not to be disturbed really, but I woke up periodically and it was still going at 5.15am - the last time I woke before I had to get up.
    It had actually stopped by 6.30 when my alarm went off. I really admire their stamina - I guess that why everything was closed yesterday and we had to join the ranks of the sad pilgrims looking for food!
    Anyway we started our walk today with an alternative Brierley route along a stunning waiver with cascades every few metres. Found a coffee stop after about 10km when it had been raining for about 30 minutes. I got the first use of my new poncho (I only used the other one once before somehow losing it somewhere around Santiago). This one seems good and is very easy to get on over the rucksack and was a godsend today as it was showery and I really needed it.
    The landscape varied from forests to open fields of maize and cereals as well as grazing pastures for cattle. Lots of birdsong, but not up to the meseta.
    Our Albergue had given us a sort of packed lunch in lieu of breakfast, which was perfect, so we finally stopped to eat that on the path not far from our new Albergue in Santa Marina. At which point the heavens opened again and it was back on with the poncho.
    Now we are in the Albergue. Clean and basic but looks like the food should be fine and available so hopefully I won’t get as hungry as I did last night when we had to wait until after 8!to get anything to eat.
    Food also basic (cheese bocadillo and chips and salad as veggies) but good. Chilled evening - pulled myself out of the relegation zone on Duolingo! And an early night. But I have a sore throat which is a bit worrying with a 32km day in prospect. Have taken paracetamol!    Read more

  • TravelerThe Camino
    Day 46

    Santiago to Negreira - on my way to the

    July 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    We left Santiago in dense mist - even the Cathedral square was swathed in cloud.
    The Camino out of Santiago was as well sign posted as our route into the city. This was not really what I had expected but we soon settled into a confident reliance on the same yellow arrows and accurate Galician granite marker posts - now counting down to Finisterre rather than to Santiago.
    We walked in mist for about the first 10km and when we stopped for a coffee it almost seemed to be about to start to rain. The Italian girl we had been walking with (Federica- originally from Bari - studying near Bologna) put her waterproof cover on her back pack. She had been in Santiago after walking the Camino Portuguese from Porto. She is at a transitional moment in her life, trying to decide whether to embark on a PhD or to try to find a job. She has travelled widely and been travelling for a while following finishing her degree earlier this year.
    Anyway in the end instead of raining it cleared up beautifully and the rest of the day was perfect - sunny but with cool air and a breeze.
    We had brought bread and Tetilla (Galician cheese) with us and shared this with Federica in a beautiful village O Ponte Maceira. We sat by a clear fast flowing river and after eating I swam before we continued on to Negreira.
    It really was a sublimely beautiful day and the walk on to Negreira was easy and enjoyable.
    After reaching our Albergue the weather clouded over and now it’s raining quite heavily. I think we are all hoping that it will be dry by the morning.
    Negreira is quite a substantial town but bizarrely almost completely closed up this Friday afternoon. They are having a big festival over the weekend (Christmas like lights suspended over the streets, fairground rides and stalls etc) but for some reason this seems to involve all the shops closing, and many of the bars and restaurants too. There were a lot of quite sad looking pilgrims wandering around - we had been warned that this was the last place to stick up on food etc before the coast and there are, apparently, large stretches of the Camino coming up where there are no devices of any kind. So it’s a bit of an issue not being able to get anything in Negreira. We finally found, thanks to Hapoy Cow, a place that did a couple of vegetarian options for dinner so now I’m no longer hungry. I was actually very hungry and increasingly hangrily despondent. But all resolved now thank goodness.
    As we’re planning to leave fairly early tomorrow we’re not having breakfast and so the Albergue has very generously given us lots of stuff to take with us - so we will be okay if we can carry it and fit it into the rucksacks.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Camino
    Day 45

    In Santiago

    July 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    It’s a very strange feeling, ending the Camino. It’s a feeling of achievement but also sadness to have left the world of the Pelegrína and to be back in the ‘normal’ world where there are choices and decisions to be made.
    I’m no longer following the yellow arrow (the sign we followed from the first day in St Jean Pied de Port) but am wandering around the mediaeval streets of Santiago mainly guided by my phone!
    Today Richard arrived which was wonderful, and Caroline left, which was very sad. We (C and I) both felt a bit strange all day - and richard is quite tired as his taxi came at 2.30am to pick him up for the airport! So we had breakfast together then booked our rooftop tour of the cathedral. This completely freaked me out. The tour, all in Spanish, actually takes you up on the sloping roof of the cathedral where it definitely felt to me like I might fall off. It’s reasonably steeply inclined and I cannot imagine what it would be like if it was wet. As it was I still felt much safer sitting down and my feet didn’t stop tingling (and sweating) until the end of the tour. However, it really was very interesting. I think I could understand about 50% of what the guide was saying, and that was fascinating.
    It was nevertheless a relief to come down. I didn’t think I was unduly afraid of heights but I definitely felt quite uncomfortable.
    Then lunch at our favourite vegetarian restaurant and C had to leave to catch her plane. R needed to sleep so I wandered round the city for a while - found a hat shop for R and a few other interesting places.
    It’s a strange thing not walking any more. It’s now Thursday evening and we’ve had a day wandering around Santiago. We went to the mass at 12 and finally saw the Botafumeiro swing - which was awesome in the truest sense of the word. I was so pleased that I’d seen it, despite it being a bit of a racket: I.e if you pay -€400 they’ll do it but not otherwise apart from holy days, and possibly, rumour has it, Fridays!
    Anyway it meant a lot to me to see it finally and the smell it created was amazing.
    After finally managing to send our suitcase to the Costa da Morte Parador by Correos we had some drinks and dinner at the Greenhouse again.
    I’m going to post this now - although currently on my way to Finisterre with Richard.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Camino
    Day 42

    O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela- Em

    July 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Oh goodness I don’t really know where to start with this day. I’m writing this, finally, on the afternoon of Tuesday 4th July sitting on our quiet hotel room.
    The final walk into Santiago was uneventful - cool and gentle. We had 19. Km to walk and the first 15 of those were still along attractive country paths, which wasn’t really what I had expected. Even the final approach to the city was less busy and confusing than I had thought it would be.
    The sun had appeared by the end and we almost missed our first, quite distant view of the cathedral.
    I wasn’t sure how I was going to feel about arriving in Santiago having ‘arrived’ before when I walked the week of the Portuguese route in October last year. I was concerned that I might not feel very much at all, despite the very long walk to get there.
    That was not the case. As we walked through the outskirts of the city and had closer views of the cathedral spires I had to walk a bit ahead as I found myself starting to weep. Luckily I was wearing sunglasses which disguised the tears a bit - I was hoping that I just looked hot and sweaty! I really don’t understand my emotions about being here and as I’m writing this, over 24 hours later, I’m welling up again.
    Eventually we reached the cathedral square and I was, basically, in floods of tears. As Liv commented, in the first pictures of me, I look really sad. I absolutely want but was feeling very emotional and couldn’t stop crying. It felt amazing to be there after such a long walk and after wanting to do the full Camino (obviously there are all types of Camino but his is the one I had set my heart on) for so many years.
    And then of course there was the illness. At some points it really felt as if I’d never be able to do it - for a long time I thought I’d never even be able to walk in Home Park again with the dogs as you can’t park there and I couldn’t walk as far as the end of the road. Let alone 800 km!
    Anyway all this was a bit overwhelming, especially on top of a very bad night’s sleep - the worst on the whole Camino - owing to a couple of very fierce mosquitos.
    Eventually, after lying down in the square, still with my pack on, I felt a bit better and we went off to apply for our Compostelas (the certificates you receive for walking the Camino). The pilgrims office was beautifully quiet I had been dreading this part as last October it was pandemonium, took ages and was very draining. However, I’m ashamed to say that when the very kind man I was allotted to was going through the formalities with me, I started to cry again and amazingly he put everything down and gave me a big hug!! This is definitely not usual practice as it’s quite a formal process. I felt very grateful for his kindness.
    Finally we went off to find our hotel and I was able to take my rucksack off. The hotel is cool, calm and very very welcome.
    Our packages, in my case sent on from Leon, were all waiting for us - I’m not sure really why I brought some of the stuff and certainly don’t really want it now but guess I will bring some of it home. We have a friend who sent a large suitcase to Santiago from St Jean Pied de Port and apparently the hotel are happy to keep it for her indefinitely. She really doesn’t want to pick it up so is just leaving it there for the moment. My feelings are similar - but luckily I don’t have as much.
    After going to the mass at the cathedral (sadly no blessings there for non- catholics) and, again, not seeing the Botafumeiro swing, we went for dinner at an amazing vegan restaurant, the Greenhouse, with Anna, Bella and Bellas Italian journalist friend. Delicious food - very comforting after several weeks where it’s been pretty tricky to be vegetarian at all.
    Today (4th) we found another great cafe for breakfast (for me toast with ricotta cheese, figs, walnuts and honey) and then a great place for lunch which we are planning to go back to tonight.
    At 10.30 we went to the English mass at the chápel in the Pilgrims Office. We met Joan, a nun from Ireland (who works with refugees and asylum seekers) who is volunteering there at the moment. She was another of the very luminous people we have met occasionally along the way, and very welcoming. The priest from the Philippines was also wonderful, also a shiny person, and very very kind to me. In this case, as a non Catholic I was made extremely welcome and given a lengthy and meaningful blessing that I will always remember. In fact I will always remember the whole service and the chat afterwards - also special.
    All so memorable and I feel very blessed.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Camino
    1
    Day 41

    Ribadiso to O Pedrouzo

    July 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Left early (6.45) but not quite as early as a 6am alarm would aspire to as I was moving slowly, despite a good nights sleep, and my phone was finding it equally difficult to get a reasonable amount of charge. Eventually I got moving and phone reached about 83% and we left.
    A cool morning with a bit of cloud but very pretty.
    First town was Arzua where many people finished yesterday as it’s a Brierley stop. We didn’t stop but continued on, stopping for coffee at a popular spot with a garden a bit further on. As I waited to order coffee they were showing España has talent on the TV - a pair of gymnasts were performing to Tom Odell - slightly surreal. Very disappointing coffee and ‘artisan’, but actually not, toast, so continued on quite quickly and found a better one a bit later.
    It was a gentle day really - up and down but not severely so. However I was quite tired and my legs were feeling a bit weak. Relieved to stop for a drink and a sandwich at El Rincón de Maria in A Brea. The sandwich was very good.
    Then on, and on, to O Pedrouzo. Just before arriving I walked for a while with Robert from Utrecht. He has walked the Primitivo - a very hard two week walk - but very beautiful. He told me he’d done his knee in on the third day going downhill but was still going and still loved it and would be back next year for another Camino. He goes as far as the knee allows - which today was a bit short of O Pedrouzo - but he’s still hoping to go to Finisterre.
    O Pedrouzo was very familiar as Cressida and I spent the day there before starting our week on the Portuguese last October. It’s a town that has everything and definitely only exists in its current form because of the Camino. I had one of my favourite ice creams then headed to our accommodation, which is more like an air b&b than a pension. But perfectly fine.
    We had heard that there was a pool at one of the big albergues so we headed there and had a wonderful swim in the biggest and best pool so far. I really need to create a swimmers guide to the Camino!
    Dinner with Anna, Caroline and Alfred from Denmark. Alfred is an Arsenal fan so knows London quite well. He was very charming and we had some great Mexican food.
    Just caught the last 15 mins of the mass at the church - we’d been told that it started at 7.30 but it was actually at 7 so we missed most of it. Then watched some local, mainly young peoples wind bands playing (with one random cello) and ate ice cream.
    A good day but I am very tired now and am threatened with another very early start tomorrow, which definitely makes sense but will also definitely be difficult.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Camino
    Day 40

    Ponte Campaña to Ribadiso

    July 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    A hotter day today. Leaving the pension was hard as it was so beautiful and I do love the sound of water - which was everywhere.
    The first few kilometres were reasonably easy / some beautiful scenery of course and interesting churches.
    We stopped in Furelos where Happy cow found us a fab vegetarian orientated cafe, run with love by a couple of Camino aficionados - they run the cafe for about 8 months a year and then walk caminos the rest of the time (as well as taking a well earned break as they don’t take any time off during the season).
    The food was great - I had houmous and padrón peppers as well as a very good coffee.
    Then on through Melide - famous for its octopus - towards Ribadiso. Apart from a brief stop for fruit at an organic food truck (I had raspberries and blackberries which had been picked from their next door field) it was what seemed like a long and fairly steeply undulating path.
    We were often walking through eucalyptus forests interspersed with picturesque villages.
    I was tired and found the last 10k or so quite hard but still loved it. I ended up ‘counting’ - my way of dealing with long distances when I’m tired, but towards the end met Susie, an American lady who was going at least 3 k further. I felt very relieved when I crossed a bridge to find the pension on the other side, although I was sad not to get to talk more with her.
    Caroline has been struggling today with her ankle so it’s been a very hard day for her.
    The pension is great, with a lovely swimming pool but the food options (or actually the only food available) is very limited. This is not really a village and barely even a hamlet. There is one restaurant which clearly has the local monopoly and is also trying to host a wedding so the staff are under pressure and are honestly quite rude and unpleasant. The food is okay but requires a bit of cobbling to create a reasonably sustaining veggie option and it’s expensive. Not our best evening but the situation is still lovely.
    Managed to use the washing machine - first time in nearly 6 weeks (have been hand washing in a variety of detergent substitutes) which was unreasonably exciting and as the weather is beautiful it’s all dry too!
    Also paddled in the river (was promised a swim but it’s way too shallow) and swam in the pension pool. So a good afternoon all in all - just need to gear up for tomorrow now!
    Finished my evening up with a tot of raspberry liqueur - bought at the organic food truck. Home made and luckily not too strong but not sure I want to carry it again tomorrow as it’s in a glass bottle and quite heavy as a pilgrim luggage item. Still very delicious and not sure I can really leave it behind - it’s just that, as I think I’ve said before, every gram counts.    Read more

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