A Fonsegrada to O Cadavo

Anticipating the ‘leg breaker’ day, along with many others we set the alarm for 6 and were on the trail before 7.45.
Initially it didn’t seem too bad. Cloud seas again on both sides- were becoming almost blasé about those although they are exceptionally beautiful and generally quite rare.
Several climbs and slings followed by a steepish down led to a fab cafe /bar at about 12 k serving a variety of delicious food and great coffee. I chose the tortilla again and its was great - it also came with a slice of rustic toast with tomato and a small piece of bizcocho- great value for €4.50.
After breakfast set off again and the trail soon led steeply up hill, and then another hill, and then a huge hill both steep and long and seemingly never ending. There were a number of false summits and I was exhausted by the time I reached the top.
By this time it was also getting pretty hot so any stretches that weren’t shaded were tricky.
I needed to drink loads of water and for the first time I nearly ran out. Just eked it out to the end in O Cadavo.
For much of the last 10k I was walking on my own with a few people visible in the far distance. But actually I don’t mind a bit of solitude. Generally the Camino, even this less travelled one, is quite sociable so a bit of down time isn’t a bad thing. I’m finding I enjoy the times when I’m left alone with my thoughts.
I arrived in O Cadavo, a tiny little town hidden in a dip in the hills, and therefore leading to some anxiety about how much further it was going to be, at about 12.55.
We have a private room in a simple pension and I was grateful to get out of the sun and into the shower.
There is a great washing line where I’ve already managed to get most of my (small amount) of clothes dry as the Sun is still blisteringly hot even at 5pm.
Getting lots of compliments on my end of walk dress - even guys saying they are quite jealous. It’s actually very comfortable and weighs only 150g so a perfect camino downtime outfit!! It’s quite nice not to look too grungy all the time!
Lunch was a bit like yesterday, a three course meal with wine if you wanted it for €14 in a place where clearly all the locals eat regularly. Delicious and definitely hit the spot after the walk today. Otherwise in town there is one other bar and a small supermarket - I think tomorrow there may be even less.
Extra washing done given the superb drying facilities I’m now trying to chill in preparation for tomorrow’s walk - which shouldn’t be so strenuous I’m told.Læs mere