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Camino Primitivo 2025

May - June 2025
  • Fiona Boult
A 24-day adventure by Fiona Read more
  • Fiona Boult

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  • Fiona BoultTravelerCamino Primitivo 2025

    Castro to A Fonsegrada

    May 27 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Another very strenuous day but beautiful and we are now in Galicia - my favourite Spanish province.
    Not a bad nights sleep and up early. The bonus was a coffee machine that worked (slowly) so I was able to have a coffee before setting off.
    As has generally been the case, it was cold and quite misty when we set off but the gradual ascent took us above the clouds again fairly quickly and then, again, there was a cloud sea and glorious views.
    Today there was supposed to be a stop after about 14 k but instead there was an unexpected cafe at Alto de Acebo (c11k). As there was no tortilla (lots of octopus pie instead - this is Galicia!) and because I was expecting another stop fairly soon, I didn’t eat anything. This proved to be an error as the second place didn’t exist at all and I didn’t get anything to eat other than a couple of TUC biscuits until arriving in A Fonsegrada at about 1.
    The scenery was fabulous again but the walking hard and many people were suffering from blisters and other injuries. There were a number of little Capillas - at one I found a little green lizard that then quickly changed to brown as he moved onto a different bit of the wall but his underneath remained bright green (see pictures and video!).
    The last hill into A Fonsegrada was about 1k of steep up and an absolute killer. It was hot by then and everyone was exhausted by the time we made it to the town.
    However a seat and a fizzy water at the first bar revived me. The hotel is great, central, clean and with a good outside area for drying washing.
    We were both really hungry so went looking for the highly recommended restaurant Cantábrico. We met up with two Spanish friends, Gustavo and Fila and had a fab meal and brilliant conversation practice for me as they speak very little English - Spanish was definitely the majority language. It was fascinating spending time with them and finding out about their lives. I found I could understand a reasonable amount of the conversation and even spoke quite a lot which was brilliant fun.
    Now hanging out in the hotel courtyard watching the washing dry.
    Tomorrow seems to be known as ‘the leg breaker’ as there are big ups and downs pretty continuously. I’m very fortunate to have survived reasonably unscathed so far but tomorrow could be a test nonetheless.
    Have finally found an open church which has a mass tonight so will go to that and then maybe eat again - or possibly just go to bed!!    Read more

  • Fiona BoultTravelerCamino Primitivo 2025

    A Fonsegrada to O Cadavo

    May 28 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Anticipating the ‘leg breaker’ day, along with many others we set the alarm for 6 and were on the trail before 7.45.
    Initially it didn’t seem too bad. Cloud seas again on both sides- were becoming almost blasé about those although they are exceptionally beautiful and generally quite rare.
    Several climbs and slings followed by a steepish down led to a fab cafe /bar at about 12 k serving a variety of delicious food and great coffee. I chose the tortilla again and its was great - it also came with a slice of rustic toast with tomato and a small piece of bizcocho- great value for €4.50.
    After breakfast set off again and the trail soon led steeply up hill, and then another hill, and then a huge hill both steep and long and seemingly never ending. There were a number of false summits and I was exhausted by the time I reached the top.
    By this time it was also getting pretty hot so any stretches that weren’t shaded were tricky.
    I needed to drink loads of water and for the first time I nearly ran out. Just eked it out to the end in O Cadavo.
    For much of the last 10k I was walking on my own with a few people visible in the far distance. But actually I don’t mind a bit of solitude. Generally the Camino, even this less travelled one, is quite sociable so a bit of down time isn’t a bad thing. I’m finding I enjoy the times when I’m left alone with my thoughts.
    I arrived in O Cadavo, a tiny little town hidden in a dip in the hills, and therefore leading to some anxiety about how much further it was going to be, at about 12.55.
    We have a private room in a simple pension and I was grateful to get out of the sun and into the shower.
    There is a great washing line where I’ve already managed to get most of my (small amount) of clothes dry as the Sun is still blisteringly hot even at 5pm.
    Getting lots of compliments on my end of walk dress - even guys saying they are quite jealous. It’s actually very comfortable and weighs only 150g so a perfect camino downtime outfit!! It’s quite nice not to look too grungy all the time!
    Lunch was a bit like yesterday, a three course meal with wine if you wanted it for €14 in a place where clearly all the locals eat regularly. Delicious and definitely hit the spot after the walk today. Otherwise in town there is one other bar and a small supermarket - I think tomorrow there may be even less.
    Extra washing done given the superb drying facilities I’m now trying to chill in preparation for tomorrow’s walk - which shouldn’t be so strenuous I’m told.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultTravelerCamino Primitivo 2025
    3

    O Cadavo to somewhere near Gondar

    May 29 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We overslept today - didn’t wake until 7 which is very late for the Primitivo.
    Were able to set off by about 7.45. It is much, much warmer today but fortunately the route is much less difficult - still up nd down but not so steep. Also, more shade, which I appreciated, tho the patches where the sun could get through felt like there was a fan heater blowing. Hard to describe - sorry!
    Spent some of the first part of the walk with Ellie from Bristol who is just doing a small part of the Primitivo- from Borres to Lugo- to see whether the camino is for her. She thinks it is!
    After following the complimentivo route through pine forests towards Castroverde we arrived at Vilabade where there was a wonderful church, a national monument known as the Cathedral of Castroverde. A young woman was half way up some scaffolding doing restoration work.
    In Castroverde we met up with Garth, Darla, Chris and Sarah. No food but good coffee. Chris, who volunteers at a wildlife project was talking about checking for ticks - I had a quick look at my legs and immediately found one - one of my worst nightmares! Managed to extract it with a bit of help and guidance - now hoping that I won’t get lymes disease!! Chris assures me I won’t - and hoping that as a man of God he will be right.
    After buying some bread, cheese and fruit we wandered on - wandering being possible when you think you’ve only got 17k total to walk.
    I decided to take a second complimentivo - a delightful route through the forest and passing by an ancient church and a very ancient tree. Again lots of shade thank goodness given temperatures of over 30 by then. Lots of walking on my own again but I enjoy that a lot - it’s good having some time to think.
    So my 17k day turned into 21.5k with the diversions and extra bit to the Albergue which is off the path — another trail through the woods with no dots to follow on my map, but I have arrived.
    The Albergue is a beautiful old house and apparently has a yoga room which I’ve yet to discover and in which I’m hoping to do a bit of practice for my exam. There is also a resident orphaned ducking which is the cutest creature ever - he seems to think he’s a human and is enjoying our company. I’m promised a vegetarian meal tonight which is fab.
    .    Read more

  • Fiona BoultTravelerCamino Primitivo 2025

    Romeán to Lugo

    May 30 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    The place we stayed last night with Lucas the duckling was the rectoral de Romean - so not just ‘somewhere near Gondar.
    We left this delightful place at about 7.30 having done a smidgeon of yoga in the yoga room with Alex and Barbara. All days on the camino would benefit by starting with this routine.
    When I woke up I stuck my phone out of the window with the Merlin app running and heard a golden oriole which was very exciting - sadly I didn’t actually see it.
    On leaving we gradually worked our way back to the route along mainly quiet roads and then on paths through more forests.
    The route to Lugo was surprisingly rural until less than a kilometre from the city’s Roman walls but then there was a steepish down to the edge of the city followed by a steep up to the walls and through into the city.
    Lugo is beautiful. Almost car free within the walls and a mixture of narrow winding streets and open plazas with cafes, restaurants and green space. The city is centred on its cathedral which has been added to over the centuries but which originally dates from Roman times. Underneath the current structures are 8 metres of the remains of its previous incarnations.
    We met up with our camino family as we walked into the centre in the Plaza
    Mayor, where we joined them for breakfast. This was the last day of all being together before we all go our separate ways -
    Most heading on towards Santiago tomorrow - a couple on the Camino Verde to join up with the Norte and head in that way.
    After eating delicious avocado toast we went off to find our apartment.
    It’s a spacious top floor flat but super hot on this very warm day. As I’m writing now it has cooled down a bit with all the windows open but after buying some lunch at the supermarket, including a huge watermelon, we eventually had to get out to cool down. A visit to the cathedral was a great help, and by the time we came out the air had cooled a little.
    An ice cream bridged the gap between lunch and supper and then again we bumped into our friends ata tiny tapas place.
    We decided to eat at an Italian restaurant recommended by our air bnb host. Very very good and close to our flat as it turned out, tho nowhere is far in this city.
    A bit of a sad end to the day as we won’t see any of our friends again, at least not on this trip. And the route will be very different from now on - much busier and more commercial.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultTravelerCamino Primitivo 2025

    Lugo - a day of rest and laziness

    May 31 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Luckily the heat in our top floor apartment subsided a bit by the time we got back from dinner. By opening all the windows on both sides of the flat we were able to get some air through which made it tolerable - but unfortunately my mattress is memory foam again which, for me, makes it feel like I’m sleeping on a heater! That and the usual city issue of the rubbish collection in the early hours of the morning didn’t lead to the most peaceful nights sleep.
    However I was awake quite early and after resolving a couple of urgent booking issues (the camino seems to require ever increasing amounts of tech capability as you have to check into places online in advance and the system doesn’t always work well on a phone!) I showered and was ready to walk the walls of Lugo by about 9.
    It’s not a long walk but very interesting and was followed by a delicious breakfast at Cafe Hope.
    We then picked a few bits up at the local supermarket and went off to explore the town.
    It’s a lively place and clearly is preparing for a Roman influenced festival later in the month.
    We found a covered market where there was a Galician craft festival going on in the basement - many women (and a few men) making lace with some other crafts for sale and performers playing and singing traditional Galician music in full local costume. Fabulous energy and clearly huge pride in the culture.
    After wandering on we managed to find two cellos for our credencials which was a relief as we now need two a day and they are hard to find on the primitivo. Just outside the wall we found a Galician food festival - clearly a very cultural weekend in Lugo.
    Then sat in one of the squares for a drink before returning to our flat for lunch.
    Planning to wander out again soon to see what’s going on now!
    After a bit of down time we had another wander round the town and a drink at a bar just off one of the squares.
    I went to Mass in the cathedral at 8 where there was a lovely atmosphere and a very touching pilgrims blessing.
    Then found Cress and we went back to the apartment to eat more water melon, cherries, bread and cheese and bolas de coco.
    Much better temperature for sleeping tho my bed still felt a bit like a furnace at some points during the night!    Read more

  • Fiona BoultTravelerCamino Primitivo 2025

    Lugo to O Burgo - a day of road walking

    June 1 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We left Lugo at about 8.15 - a bit later than usual for us but as we were anticipating a relatively short day of about 21k we didn’t hurry.
    To rejoin the Camino we walked through the city to the Cathedral where we picked up the arrows again. The path took us steeply downhill out of Lugo, across the river Miño and then along side it for about a kilometre, passing the Club Fluvial de Lugo with pools (empty at the moment) and tennis courts and on the city side very attractive looking bars and restaurants.
    The path then took us up and away from the river and quickly into countryside. The way was mainly along quiet roads but it was hard and rather tedious walking. For the first time ever on a camino I put my earplugs in and listened to an audiobook. There were odd moments when the route dived off the road and into woodland which was much better and immediately much more interesting with birdsong and plants to hear and see. But the majority of the day was along the roads and it did not bring me joy!!
    There were not a lot of services on this stage but after about 10k there was a super vending machine spot with a coffee machine producing very good coffee, food vending for the desperate (I wasn’t!) and a very clean toilet for which everyone seemed grateful. This was really the only spot to take a break until near the end of our stage in a tiny hamlet called San Román where there was a friendly bar serving drinks and bocadillos - a large cheese and tomato baguette for €3.
    It’s been strange today with a whole bunch of new people - no English speakers - and because of the stages we are now doing between here and Santiago it’s unlikely that we will see these people again tomorrow or possibly again ever.
    I think we should pick up some new Frances travellers after Melide but then it’s only a couple of nights to Santiago so unlikely to be long enough to form friendships.
    The place where we are staying tonight, O Cruce do Burgo is a newish hotel with an indoor swimming pool. Still geared up for pilgrims with dinner starting early at 7 but the indoor pool is very welcome - weather is too cold for outdoor swimming today.
    Had a lovely swim in the pool followed by meeting the local donkey - Cebollo - who is extremely sweet and brayed hello after trotting over to see me. Made my day!
    Food excellent! Having an early night now. Seem to have an infected ear so hoping it won’t get worse as don’t think there will be a pharmacy tomorrow -
    I’m relying on good old savlon at the moment.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultTravelerCamino Primitivo 2025

    O Burgo to A Seixas

    June 2 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    With only a very short 10/11k to walk today we were able to sleep in and I didn’t wake up until after 8. So I think I must have slept for about 11 hours. Apparently Cress woke up in the night when the (huge) television suddenly turned on and there were three life size Galician peasants advertising something. Apparently terrifying around midnight when you have been asleep for three hours! I managed to sleep through the whole thing.
    Anyway we got up slowly and then went for coffee and toast at the Albergue’s cafe. We reckoned we only had two or three hours walking to do and as the next albergue only opened at 1.30 there was absolutely no hurry.
    Finally left at about 10.30 and strolled gently along more roads. Sky overcast and not very warm. I decided to zig zag up the road a bit to make the distance a bit further which amused Cress. Strung it out to 11 k just rather than 10 but still felt very under exercised.
    Did a mini detour to a rather strange place billed as a meeting point for pilgrims run by a guy who has been a pilgrim and now seems to produce some handmade necklaces etc. he was a very sweet anarchist with some interesting views, not hugely interesting jewellery unfortunately but a hand drawn cello for our credentials. It was interesting to met him.
    We saw very few other pilgrims until almost the end of our walk but did meet a horse and a peacock and many cows.
    The place we are staying tonight, Albergue Al Toqueira is very small, only 9 places, but provides dinner with a vegetarian option and made me a good cheese and tomato bocadillo for lunch.
    As we are so early in hoping to get in some practice for my exam. Managed a few pirouettes yesterday on a great floor surface but the room today is tiny so it will be barre exercises only.
    Good afternoon getting stuff done and completing application for Race Across the World! No hope of getting in really as it’s hugely popular but no harm in trying. Did my barre and patched up my trousers followed by dinner with Julia from Germany who was very amusing and a guy from Croatia and a girl from Budapest. Always interesting meeting new people and does sound like they might be doing roughly the same distance as us tomorrow so may see them.
    Ear a bit better today - thanks for the good wishes - I am hoping savlon has done the trick again.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultTravelerCamino Primitivo 2025
    11111

    A Seixas to Ribadiso

    June 3 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Pleased to report ear is better but managed to get bitten by numerous mosquitos last night so now have some v large bumps to anoint.
    That apart all good. And the plus about the mosquitos in the room was that we were up and out before 7 having out the alarm on for 6.20. Normally we take a bit longer but marauding mosquitos are a great incentive to move quickly.
    This was our last section of quiet Primitivo walking before joining the crowds, after about 14k, on the Frances at Melide.
    The first part of today’s walk was beautiful - fairly classic Primitivo with distant views and high moorland again.
    Stopped at a very disappointing bar after about 10k where although the coffee was fine, the tortilla I was given was definitely from yesterday and really wasn’t very nice. So we moved on fairly quickly on into Melide, where after a bit of pottering about we found a lovely local bar with croissants and apple slices - perfect breakfast (I think I’m done with tortilla for this trip!).
    Picked up another tiny toothpaste and magnesium as seem to have mislaid my supply then on with the, actually not too bad, crowds, out into the countryside again.
    The path from Melide to Ribadiso undulates gently and makes for quite a pleasant if not super exciting walk. We came to one of my favourite stops - the lady who sells coffee liqueur and very good torta de Santiago from a van in the forest. She was the same as ever and I bought a largish bottle (in camino terms) of the liqueur which I will try to drink before coming home as worry the bottle won’t survive the flight.
    The people we met were all walkers from Sarria, mainly on escorted tours. Spent a bit of time walking with a couple from Long Ditton which was weird - they even walk their dog in Home Park so will probably see them there later in the year.
    Tonight’s Albergue is the one Caroline and I stayed at two years ago - by a river with a pool. Very nice place. We had a light lunch at the restaurant across the road from the Albergue - local cheese salad and Padrón peppers (first this camino and delicious). Then back for a swim just in time before the sun disappeared.
    Washing is out on a good line - hopefully drying well - so all is right with the world.
    Really good pilgrims meal for €16 at the restaurant a food the road - 3 courses and a glass of wine.
    Have heard from our group that they are now in Lavacolla together and walking together into Santiago tomorrow. Feeling quite sad that we aren’t with them - there are disadvantages to being on a set schedule! We are talking to the odd new person but as they’ve all just walked from Sarria and mainly with groups it’s a whole different experience.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultTravelerCamino Primitivo 2025

    Ribadiso to San Poilo

    June 4 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Being a bit unsure about what the weather was going to do, put the alarm on for 6.40 and then checked weather app and peered out to see whether it was raining. It didn’t appear to be but by the time we were leaving it was spitting and got a bit worse as we walked up towards Arzua.
    I had a bit of a panic as thought I’d lost my tiny savlon - which is unreasonably important to me. However it turned up in the cafe in Arzua which was a relief.
    I toughed it out without rain gear to start with as it didn’t seem too bad and wearing a poncho is a sweaty business and only worth it if the rain is significant. But by the time we stopped for coffee in Arzua it was raining more strongly and I gave in and put the poncho on.
    Arzua consists, from a pilgrims point of view, of a long busy road with lots of hostels and cafes. By the time we were leaving at around 8.30 we were joining the main group of people who had stayed in the town overnight - so it was busy - but then again nothing like last year when it was largely nose to backpack from Sarria onwards.
    I gradually overtook people and had a little more space which was good.
    Although the camino is now getting close to Santiago and of course the scenery is nothing like as dramatic as that on the Primitivo, it is pretty along this stretch. Winding paths through woods, rising and falling gently(ish) with some views out across the surrounding fields.
    There are lots of places to stop - a novelty after the Primitivo- but we didn’t choose to stop much given it was a 30k day.
    I talked with a very fast walking lady from Denmark who has walked from Leon - her pack was minute given she was carrying all her stuff but didn’t even include rain gear (apparently she had been lucky with the weather!) but this is northern Spain and you definitely can’t count on that. She walked super fast so fairly soon said goodbye and I never saw her again. Then fell in with some Americans who had done the whole Frances. Lovely people and clearly had had a great time.
    We finally stopped for lunch in O Pedrouzo. I’ve always stayed here before on the last night but the accommodation is expensive and not great so today we walked on after lunch another 8k to the tiny village of San Poilo. Much was fab - Mexican food and a whole veggie menu. Delicious and perfect. I had a burrito and nachos with guacamole - very tasty and filling, which is lucky as tonight there is only a cheese sandwich for dinner. The last 8k was pretty hard going - not because of the terrain which was fine and through beautiful woodland. But because I was so tired. I’m not good at eating and then walking til 3/4pm. However we made it and had an ice cream on the way which helped, or possibly hindered as while I was eating it I couldn’t use my poles, but it was good.
    I’m now sitting on bed in the b&b which could be in England (the lady who owns the pension spent many years working in the UK and clearly has retained some influences from her time there). Feeling a bit exhausted but tomorrow is the last day and only about 12k to walk so sure I will be fine in the morning.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultTravelerCamino Primitivo 2025
    1

    San Poilo to Santiago do Compostela

    June 5 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Left the pension at 7 but as we were about to shut the (then unopenable) door it was clear it was pouring outside so beat a hasty retreat and out the rain gear on again.
    We only had 12k to walk and it was absolutely fine but not exciting and in full rain gear I can never really see much so there aren’t many pictures today.
    We had arranged to meet Alex at a Churreria
    On our way in and ended up getting there over an hour earlier than expected - which gave us more time with him. He is going off to La Coruña to walk the ingles - v jealous!
    In the same cafe we bumped into Mati and Luis which was great as we had wanted to meet up with them in Santiago.
    Two coffees and lots of churros later we continued on to the Plaza and the Catedral - wonderful as always!!
    Had pictures as far as posible in the rain and then went to dump our rucksacks at the Hotel - which is very close to the cathedral. Owing to all my email problems (blueyonder is no longer working at all) we had a few issues with checking in but in the end managed with WhatsApp.
    At the pilgrims office we received our Compotelas - mine is a bit weird as it says I did the Norte because it wouldn’t allow you to do the Primitivo starting from Villaviciosa. I could have said I started from Oviedo but I didn’t and that negates the 50 or so kilometres I walked from Villaviciosa to Oviedo. So I might just have to do the Primitivo again to get a certificate which says it!!
    I went to the 12 noon mass at the cathedral which was wonderful (but the Botefumero didn’t swing sadly).
    Then on to some lunch at La puerta Verde - excellent veggie restaurant up the hill.
    After lunch wandered round the shops in the rain which was still fun and bought some trousers and a jumper very cheaply as it’s so cold I just don’t have the right stuff to wear.
    Dinner was at a fab vegan restaurant - A Corre Vexeta - delicious meal and a really lovely place in every way.
    Wandered back through the Plaza Obradeiro where there was a great band playing. A mixture of fantastic voices - all men - guitars, flutes, drums, pipes etc. a huge crowd had gathered around and were dancing and signing along. It was hard to leave it to go to bed, but by that time I had been up for over 18 hours and I was exhausted.    Read more

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