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Simon and Sam Europe Adventure
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  • Samuel Dodson

Simon and Sam Europe Adventure

Simon and Sam fly to France, Spain and Italy in July 2018 to soak up the northern summer. Läs mer
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  • Simon and Sam Europe Adventure
    1

    Back to Spain

    13 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    We spent the night our hotel Dar Souran which is located in the Medina of Tanger. We went up to the terrace for breakfast which was included. Breakfast included orange juice, coffee, eggs, bread, pastries, crepes, jams and honey, and olives.

    Hassan our troublesome guide turned up to take us to our taxi. We traveled back to the ferry terminal at the huge port in Tanger. The port is massive. It is obviously being expanded to one of the major African ports. There were acres of brand new cars just waiting to be transported around the world.

    It was amazing to again be travelling across the straits of Gibraltar. One of the major waterways in the world. At one point I could count over fifty large container boats and ferries within our view on this major traffic route to and from all the Mediterranean countries and the rest of the world.

    Once we arrived back in Spain, we found our hire car still parked where we left it, and drove along the beautiful Costa del Sol (coast of the sun, or sun coast) to the beautiful town of Nerja and our hotel right on the beach. We had a swim in the Mediterranean Sea and enjoyed sitting in the warm sunshine along with other sunbakers. The Costa del Sol is a popular holiday destination for
    English and French holiday makers during the summer.

    The weather is spectacular. The sunshine is clear, the water refreshing and the daylight lasts until 9.30pm. The twilight is long and the sunset beautiful.    Läs mer

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    Nerja then Granada

    14 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    This morning we got our swimmers on and went straight downstairs to the beach. There was no time to be wasted. Beautiful warm sunshine and the Mediterranean was beckoning. We sat on the beach for about an hour, swam for a while in the clear water and skimmed stones across the sea. It wa a very memorable morning and we wished we were staying longer in the Costa del Sol. We had to check out at 12:00pm so that was the limit of the time we had.

    We then drove about five minutes down the road to the famous viewing terrace called Balcon de Europa. It has a spectacular vista of the magnificent beaches in the area. The view is the most used publicity photo used to promote this region. We spent some time here soaking up the atmosphere. We bought some lunch and had an ice cream from one of the many stores selling a huge variety of flavours.

    We then headed off towards Granada, stopping only to look at the notable landmark which is the aqueduct with four tiers of arches. Another memorable sight in Nerja.

    We reluctantly left Nerja, wishing we had allocated more time to this beautiful coastal region of southern Spain.    Läs mer

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    Granada

    14 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Granada is one of the most important historical places in Spain. It is here that the Moors held out for so long against the Spanish. It was in 1492 the Ferdinand and Isabella finally overcame the Moors and returned the city and the region to Spanish (and Catholic) rule.

    It was also in 1492 the Christopher Columbus received royal support for his trip to the new world, something that would lead to untold riches for Spain and change the world forever. It was also in 1492 the the Jews were expelled from Spain. 1492 was a busy year here in Granada.

    The Jewish history is fascinating in this place (before 1492). More on that later.

    I went on. Tour of the gypsy area of the city, which is outside the old city walls, and where gypsies have been living in cave houses for many centuries. They are still there and have a history of providing labour and agricultural services for the city for many generations. The area of the city is called Sacremente. There are fantastic views of the city from that hill. The main attraction of the city, the Alhambra, can be seen clearly from the gypsy hill.

    The Alhambra is the old Moorish palace which became the palace of king Ferdinand and queen Isabella when they took the city back from the Muslims.    Läs mer

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    Alhambra in Granada

    15 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    The Alhambra is a fortress and palace which is on a prominent hill in Granada. It is the most popular tourist destination in Spain. When we arrived at our hotel yesterday we were told all the tickets for the Alhambra were sold and the next available ticket was in about five days. We were told this waiting list was short because it is the heat of summer. In the autumn and spring the waiting periods can be five weeks. Not to be easily deterred, I got online yesterday evening and discovered a source for tickets for a tour for today. They were expensive but I wasn’t coming to Granada to miss out on seeing the Alhambra. So I bought them. I was very thankful we did. It is a very memorable tour. Don’t miss it if ever you are in this city.

    The Alhambra began life as a fortress in Roman times, then began to develop as a citadel of large proportions during the Muslim rule. The Sultan built a citadel and a palace to impress visitors and create an impregnable fortress to withstand any invader. It served its purpose. The fortress was never taken. The Spanish king and queen Ferdinand and Isabella retook Granada from the Muslim ruler in 1492, the final city in Spain to return to Spanish rule, but they could not take the Alhambra despite besieging it, and only succeeded with a negotiated surrender of the city. The deal struck was that all citizens of the city, including Muslims and Jews, could continue to live peacefully in the city if the Muslim king surrendered the fortress and palace. The deal was struck. The Spanish honoured the agreement for a short time, then the Inquisition began its work and Jews and Muslims could only stay if they converted to Christianity.

    The palace still retains its Muslim architecture combined with a renaissance palace built by Charles V, Isabella’ grandson. There isn’t just one palace, but a complex of palaces, a fortress with three levels of walls and Impregnable gates in medieval style, gardens, water pools, a complex system of bringing water from kilometres away which still flows through the palace, the gardens and to city today.

    The tour went for three hours and we felt like we were only scratching the surface of this huge citadel. It was an amazing place that brought Granada’s fascinating history to life.    Läs mer

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    1

    More of the Alhambra

    15 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Some more photos of this amazing palace and fortress.
    Our guide was excellent. Her name was Irene. She reminded me of Priscilla in her younger days. She spent seven years studying to be a guide. She told us that the financial crisis of a couple of years ago has made it very difficult for younger people in Spain to get a job and many of her friends have had to go abroad to find employment.Läs mer

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    Granada Cathedral

    16 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    The Granada Cathedral could not be constructed until the Christians had regained control of Granada in 1492. The foundations were laid in 1518 on the site where the mosque had stood. The Cathedral was one of the first to be built in the renaissance style whereas most of the Cathedrals that predated this one were built in the Gothic architecture of the Middle Ages. This Cathedral was therefore cutting edge architecture. To stand in it is to feel that one is standing in a Greco Roman temple of massive scale due to its classical influences which at the time were new and untried.

    The wealth and history of Granada and its art are on display in this building.    Läs mer

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    Museum and Flamenco

    16 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    I visited a museum of the Inquisition and Sephardic Jewish history in the evening, followed by a flamenco concert.

    The museum told the tragic story of the Inquisition coming to Granada and targeting Jews and Muslims who had chosen to stay rather than flee. They had to convert. They were known as conversos. The Inquisition tested whether they had really converted or whether they were merely putting on a facade of conversion in public but still practicing their own religion in private.

    The Inquisition had the power of the church and the king behind it so it’s power was enormous and much to be feared. The museum explained the process of trials and punishment in gruesome detail. There is very little left of Jewish people or culture in Granada as a consequence of the efficacy of the Inquisition.

    After visiting the museum and seeing the sun set over the Alhambra, I went to a Flamenco concert which was a fascinating insight into a very Spanish form of music and dance which has its roots in the amalgam of the cultures of gypsies, Moors and slaves here in Granada. The guitar playing, the dancing, castanets, foot stomping and Flamenco costumes are amazing.    Läs mer

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    Granada to Cordoba

    16 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    Today we rose and left our hotel in the old city of Granada after enjoying breakfast in our quaint hotel. Very typical of old Granada. We picked up our car and drove first to Malaga on the Costs dal Sol. It was not directly on the route to Cordoba, our destination for the day, but we had reason to make a detour. We needed to visit Jim Lily in hospital.

    Jesse and Felisa messaged saying their great uncle was on a tour in Spain and had a fall and ended up in hospital in Malaga. We were able to visit him and his brother Andrew in hospital to show a friendly Aussie face and say hello. They were grateful. We were sorry we couldn’t do more, but we did what we could to cheer them up given the challenges they are facing.

    We continued on the journey to Cordoba and arrived about 4.30pm. We are staying in a really nice hotel in the Jewish Quarter (Juderia) called NH Collection.

    I went on a quick walk around the neighbourhood and discovered we were right next door to one of only three old synagogues from the medieval period in Spain. There is this one and then two in Toledo, our next destination.

    We are also next door to two significant plazas. Maimonides Plaza and Plaza de Tiberia. Both of these plazas commemorate one of Cordoba’s most famous sons - Moses Maimonides, also known as RAMBAM, an acronym for his full name. He is probably the most famous of all Jewish Rabbis. I remember visiting his burial site in Tiberius in the shores of Galilee when I was in Israel. He was a Jewish Philosopher, doctor of medicine, rabbinical scholar and prolific writer. He had to flee Spain because of Jewish persecution during his lifetime, but he is remembered as one of the greatest Sephardic Jewish leaders of all time. Oh yes, he also wrote the Mishnah Torah , the greatest commentary on the Jewish Torah ever written and still studied by Jewish scholars today.

    Maimonides has all kind kinds of things named after him in the city, including streets, shops, restaurants, hotels, plazas, museums and so on. Ironic given that all Jews, including Maimonides, were expelled from Spain. So effective was this expulsion that instead of the 30,000 Jews in Cordoba in his days, there are now only 16 Jewish families in this city. Not even enough to keep a synagogue going. The old synagogue is closed for renovations and it is a museum owned by the city, there being not enough Jews to keep a synagogue going.    Läs mer

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    Wandering around Cordoba

    16 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    I took the opportunity tonight of wandering around the amazing city of Cordoba. I came across a triumphal arch and forum from the Roman times. Also there is a bridge from Roman times across the river which was an important port from Roman times right through to the Middle Ages. The river silted up, and then the port was moved downstream to Seville in the fifteenth century and Seville took on the port status that Cordoba had previously enjoyed.

    Cordoba was the preeminent city in Western Europe in the eleventh to about the thirteenth century.

    The biggest and best place to visit is the Mosque and Cathedral here in Cordoba. It is a huge Mosque the has maintained its moorish characteristics but operates as a Cathedral. We are on a tour of that amazing landmark tomorrow morning. We saw is from the outside this evening and that was amazing in itself.    Läs mer

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  • Simon and Sam Europe Adventure
    1

    Jewish Museum in Cordoba

    16 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    Even though there are only 16 Jewish families in Cordoba, the Jewish history is so significant here that there is a museum dedicated to that story. RAMBAM, or Maimonides, is a big part of the exhibition, but there is a lot to the story of the Golden Age of Jewish People in Western Europe in the Middle Ages. The Jews were so successful that they almost ruled the country. A famous Jew born in Cordoba became the main vizier of the king and general of the Spanish Army of the Berber kings based in Granada. It is considered to be the only time between the ancient kingdom of Israel and the modern state of Israel that the Jews have been in control of an army. In fact, the country was a Jewish state in all but name due to the influence of the Jews in the royal court.

    The Jews invented a way of using gold mixed with silver to embroider garments which gave them a form of opulence which made whoever wore them look stunning as the light glinted off their clothes. The kings wore these clothes but so did the affluent Jews.

    The Jewish success led to hatred both in Granada and Cordoba and there was a massacres in the fourteenth century which led many Jews to flee.

    There was also an exhibition in the museum commemorating all the Muslim families in Europe who saved Jewish families during the Hitler’s holocaust in World War Two. There were some amazing stories of bravery and courage under threat of death to save their Jewish cousins.

    The Umayyad Caliphate which ruled medieval Spain at the time of Maimonides’ birth was very supportive of the arts, culture, science, religion, architecture, philosophy and learning. They were quite different from Catholic rulers in that respect. They were tolerant of Jews, Muslims and Christians. This is to be contrasted with the Catholic monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella who expelled unconverted Jews and Muslims the minute they took Granada in 1492.

    It was into this tolerant and advanced culture of the Umayyads that Memonides was born and was able to become a learned and respected man. At least for a few decades until things turned sour for the Jews when a less supportive Caliphate took over and RAMBAM fled to North Africa and then Cairo where he joined the large Jewish population there. It was in Cairo that he wrote the Mishnah, simply a work of genius, over ten years. It is for this work that he is best known by the Jews. For non-Jews his works if Philosophy and his work in medicine, science and astronomy that he is best known. He was also a student of Aristotle and he wrote extensively on the famous Athenian philosopher and his arguments and logic.
    In the area of philosophy, his work entitled ‘A Guide for the Perplexed, analyses the apparent tension between faith and reason, between religion and rationality. He argued the truth should be our goal and he acknowledged that the challenges around faith and reason can be perplexing and requires careful thoughtful searching for truth.    Läs mer

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    Old city walls and a Roman orator

    16 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    The old city walls and gates are amazing to see in Cordoba. The walls are in excellent condition as are quite a few of the old city gates.

    Another famous son of Cordoba is the ancient Roman senator, writer, orator and thinker Seneca. He was born here due to his father being posted here during the Roman occupation during the first century BC. He is one of the most famous ancient Roman thinkers and speakers. I have a book at home which he wrote on rhetoric, how to persuade. He gave some famous speeches in the Roman Senate when later in his life he left Cordoba to become very influential in the capital of the empire, Rome.Läs mer

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    Mezquita and Cathedral

    17 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    The most amazing thing to see in Cordoba is the Medieval Mosque and the Renaissance Cathedral that has been built within the Mosque.

    The medieval mosque is huge, one of the biggest in the world. It measures 23,000 square metres, 2.3 hectares, or about 5 acres, under the roof, plus the large courtyard. It is estimated that 40,000 muslims could worship within, or 70,000 could worship in Ramadan standing up. The scale of the place is incredible.

    When the Christians took over the city of Cordoba in about 1250, the Christians built a church within the Mosque. Later, in the Renaissance period, in the 16th century, a larger cathedral was built within the Mosque, but still leaving most of the mosque intact. So the current building is an amalgam of mosque and Christian churches of various sizes.

    What stands out is the pillars and arches of the mosque when inside. The Muslims used the old Roman buildings to scavenge columns and stones which were used in the construction of the huge mosque.

    The mosque is so large that it was built in four stages over a number of centuries, between the ninth century and the 12th century.

    Sam and I went on a tour of the Mosque and Cathedral and were in awe of the architecture and the scale of the building which is over 1000 years old in its earliest stages. It is the third most visited tourist site in Spain behind the Alhambra in Granada and the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona.    Läs mer

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    More from Cordoba

    17 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    The Mosque and Cathedral of Cordoba were astonishing. These buldings dated from 1000 years ago. But there are also Roman walls and remnants of structures which are 2000 years old, from the Roman Empire. There are also amazing buildings from the medieval period which create an incredible mix of architecture on display when walking the streets.

    Cordoba is definitely a fascinating city full of historical interest.

    We stayed in a hotel which is linked to a courtyard of a house which was built in the 15th century. A beautiful hotel and an amazing old courtyard.    Läs mer

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    Driving from Cordoba to Toledo

    18 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    It takes about 3 and a half hours to drive from Cordoba to Toledo on the excellent Spanish roads. We left Cordoba at about 12:30pm and expected to arrive in Toledo at about 4:00pm. However, we were dirving along the motorway and two things coincided - we had to stop for petrol and we did so in sight of a very spectacular old fortress on a hill with old windmills surrounding it.

    After filling the car with unleaded fuel, we could not resist finding the way up the hill towards the fort. In doing so we passed through a beautiful little Spanish town called Consuegra. The fortress dates back to Roman and Muslim times.

    The fortress and the windmills are actually famous. The fort is the home of the Order of Knights of St John of Jerusalem (Hospitallers) from 1197. Before that, in 1097, Diego, son of Mia Cid, lost his life defending the fort against the invading Muslims.

    This town is also the territory of the fictional figure Don Quixote, as described by author Miguel de Cervantes in 1615 in what is considered to be the world's first novel. It was entitled Don Quixote of La Mancha. La Mancha is the Spanish area we drove through today, and it literally means 'the dry land' in Arabic, because it is so dry in the summer months.

    The fort was amazing - a real medieval fortress with towers, long rooms, prisons, cisterns for water, 5m thick walls, a drawbridge, and much more. There was even a chest containing swords and a shield, which Sam immediately picked up and wielded dangerously. There was also an area within the walls into which villagers could flee and bring their cattle, sheep and horses and keep them safe in the event of an attacking army. The main cistern was huge and could have supplied water to the fort for months.

    The windmills date from the 16th century and they are amazing examples of how medieval people milled grain when water was not able to be reliably used to turn wheels and millstones. The huge windmills have huge millstones within them which are ingeniously designed for milling grain. We could climb up inside one of them and see the extraordinary oak wooden mechanisms inside for milling the grain.

    The stop at Consuegra was well worth it, even though we didn't end up pulling into Toledo until about 6 pm.    Läs mer

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    Arriving in Toledo

    18 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    Toledo is a spectacular town. Driving towards the city on the hill is a memorable experience due to the impressive fort and cathedral on the hill, along with all the other old buildings. The whole old part of the city is declared at World Heritage Site by Unesco. This town goes back to Roman times, but the medieval buildings are most impressive. It is one of the nicest places we have visited.

    Our hotel room is very spacious. It has three rooms and has a fridge, stove, dishwasher and clothes washer. It is really an apartment on the top storey of a Medival style building. There is also a terrace from which I can see the palace and the cathedral. Great spot!

    I went for a wander around the old city, which is on a hill so it is quite steep in parts. Once again there is a Jewish Quarter (Juderia) in this city. All these old Spanish towns have had a Jewish Quarter, where the Jews lived and thrived before the tragic expulsion and persecution of the 14th and 15th centuries.

    There are three synagogues in Spain which date from the period before the expulsion in 1492. One was in Cordoba, which was closes but I was able to see from the outside, and the other two are here in Toledo. It is amazing to see two synagogues which date from the early medieval period in one town in Spain.

    The first synagogue has been converted into a church. It is known and the Synagogue de Santa Maria de Blanca. The second synagogue is now a Sephardic Museum and which looks really interesting. Both were closed this evening so I was only able to view them from outside, but I hope to return to them tomorrow to see them inside.

    The Jewish Quarter has been marked by the Jews with all these little tiles on the streets with little Jewish symbols - little menorahs, little snippets of Hebrew, little Sephardic symbols and also signs that tell you that you are in the Jewish Quarter. There are hardly any Jews living in Toledo today, but the Jews have let everyone know that they were here and they don't want people to forget how badly they were treated.

    There is a little shop next to one of the synagogues that has a reminder message of the dry bones of Ezekiel 37 to highlight that despite the persecutions and expulsions, the Jews are still here and not going away.

    The sunset over the valley in Toledo this evening was spectacular. We had Maccas for dinner, just to be classy, and to keep Sam happy.    Läs mer

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    Alcazar of Toledo

    19 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    The Royal Palace (Alcazar) of Toledo sits prominently on top of the hill which is completely encircled by medieval walls and gates which enclose the old city. Our hotel is right in the centre of the old city. The walls and gates around us remind me distinctly of those in Jerusalem.

    It is only a short walk from our hotel to the Alcazar. We set off for what we thought was going to be a visit for 1-2 hours. It took four hours. The Alcazar has, since 2010, housed the main museum of the Spanish Army. It is a War Museum of the whole of Spain's military history from ancient times until the present. There are about seven floors of exhibits moving more recent in time as one climbs higher in the Palace. It is similar in size and scope to the French military museum in Paris.

    It was a revelation to Sam to see that a country could have a military history spanning not just a few centuries but more than two millenia. The complex military history of Spain was somewhat clearer after spending over four hours moving from ancient Roman Spain to the present, but it is a complicated history. One thing is clear, the history of Spain, like so many other European nations, is a history of war, bloodshed, power struggles, empire-building, victories and defeats.

    The Spanish military history includes: Roman invasion an empire, Visigoth invasion and empire, Christians, Moors and muslims of various kinds and their empire, the Catholic invasion and their empire, the Spanish expansion beginning with Columbus into the new world in South America, but also later into other areas like the Philippines who were a Spanish colony, the Napoleanic Invasion, Austrian Hapsburg invasion and empire, the Spanish civil war of the early 20th century, the Franco dictatorship which lasted from 1940 till 1975, then a parliamentary democracy with a monarchy restored. All that and more. And everything explained and exhibited in this amazing museum.

    The weapons, military paraphernalia, uniforms and tactics were all displayed from each period. It began with Roman weapons and armour, right through medieval, moorish, renaissance, to more modern weapons and uniform. An incredible collection. It is hard to fathom how many suits of armour, swords, spears, pikes, pistols, muskets, rifles, cannons, artillery of all kinds were in this collection. Amazing. Very educational. I can only imagine how interesting it would be to teach history in this country and be able to bring the students to such a place to see the artefacts.

    The building in which this museum is housed is a sight in itself. It is a palace with four huge towers on each corner. It stands out on the city skyline. The foundations were laid by the Romans in the first and second century. Since then there have been many iterations of this fortress in that very place, and many of the walls have been excavated and these also are on display deep below the current floor level of the palace, three-four levels below ground.

    It was a fantastic experience going through the museum. Sam and I got mentally fatigued trying to take it all in. But it was a revelation.

    Toledo is the location where the weapons factory for Spain was located. It is famous for its knives, swords, armour and weapons made from metal. Toledo steel is famous and all the tourist shops sell swords, armour, pistols, rifles, muskets as souvenirs. There are more swords in this town than people. It is extraordinary. There are enough weapons in the tourist shops here to arm and entire regiment. Sam is quite keen to buy some swords and pistols but I am not sure how customs woulr view them in Sydney airport.    Läs mer

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    Two medieval synagogues

    19 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    Two out of the three synagogues that remain intact in Spain from the Medieval period are here in Toledo. The third is in Cordoba where were yesterday. At about 5 pm I walked to the Jewish Quarter to investigate both.

    The first synagogue I went into is called the Synagogue of El Transito. Originally it was built by Samuel ha-Levi Abulafia and it was joined to his palatial home as his personal place of worship. He was from a very prominent family of Jews who had been served the Castillian kings for many generations and had grown rich and powerful. The founder eventually lost favour of the royal family and he was executed when things went sour for the Jews. It was first built in 1356, just prior to the persecution of the Jews commencing in Spain.

    The synagogue was very large and built in a unique style which incorporated Muslim elements. In fact, the stucco wall decorations are in the Mudejar style similar to the ornate Al Hambra in Granada. The wooden ceiling is ornate and clearly influenced by Moorish style. It is possible that the Muslims actually did much of the work as they were the most skilled tradesmen in Spain in that period.

    This synagogue is now a Museum of Sephardic Jewish culture. The rooms to the side of the synagogue are filled with interesting Jewish exhibits and the garden has large Jewish tombstones that have been recovered from around Spain from the pre-expulsion period.

    The second synagogue I visited is called the Synagogue of Santa Maria la Blanca and it was even more surprising than the first. It is made of columns and arches clearly in the Muslim style. It was converted into a church after the expulsion of 1492 but the essential nature of the building was unchanged. It has now become a museum for its history as a rare 14th-century synagogue.

    It was fascinating to tour these two Jewish places of worship, knowing what we know now about what happened to the Jews in Spain and their Sephardic culture. There are a couple of really fascinating Jewish shops near the synagogues in which I also spent some time browsing the books, manuscripts and maps they had for sale. There was an old scroll of the book of Esther for sale. They even had Asterix books for sale in Hebrew. I was tempted but resisted.    Läs mer

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    Walking around the walls of Toledo

    19 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    Toledo is entirely encircled by massive medieval and Roman walls, just like the old city of Jerusalem. It is a citadel of considerable size. It sits on a steep hill with a river bend sweeping around it much lower in the valley. The fortress would have been impregnable. The gates and towers can be climbed and the views are spectacular.

    I went for a walk right around the city. It took about one and a half hours to get right around but it was worth it for the amazing views of this magnificent city.    Läs mer

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    Toledo to Madrid

    20 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Today we said goodbye to Toledo, stopped on our way out of town for one last photo and then drove to Madrid. We checked into our Airbnb in the centre of town at about 3.30pm. The traffic in the centre of Madrid was crazy. Our host could not believe we had brought a car into the centre of Madrid. She doesn’t even own a car and recommended that we get rid of ours too. I am already scheduled to return the car tomorrow.

    We walked around town to get our bearings. We found a supermarket close by to stock up on supplies.

    Sam had a quiet night in. I had planned to attend the bullfighting display in the Madrid bullring. There were young matadors, picadors and banderilleros putting on a bullfight during the summer while the more experienced bullfighters take a break. It was an interesting spectacle.    Läs mer

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    Dropping off the hire car

    21 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    This morning I braved the crazy Madrid traffic to return the hire car. In some ways I was happy to return the car in one piece after braving the Madrid traffic, sitting on the left-hand side of the car, driving on the right-hand side of the road, and just to add a bit of spice, the far right lane in Madrid city centre is reserved for buses and taxis. The far right lane is the slow lane, my preferred lane in the circumstances, but that was unavailable to me, something which my Spanish compatriots on the road were equally frustrated about - they were all quite keen for me to move into the far right lane, something they regularly urged me to do by use of their loud honking horns. Also, turning right from the middle lane is something the buses and taxis are not keen for motorists to do, as it means cutting through their lane. I discovered that buses have much louder horns than cars, and taxis are even more ready to use their horns as well in such circumstances, as I discovered, having many right turns to make as I circled rather fruitlessly around the train station trying to find the hire car drop-off point. One-way streets are also something Madrid town-planners have embraced with enthusiasm disproportionate to their practicality. I am not sure the complete guidelines around their use was complied with in my driving experience this morning, although I am unsure I could pinpoint exactly where I went wrong. The Spanish were keen to give me hints about this, once again using their horns to maximum effect.

    The hire-car depot was in the huge Madrid Train Station, which is so large and filled with commuters and tourists coming in on the fast trains that it is more like an airport. It took me three hours just to drive to the station via a petrol station to fill up, find the appropriate location to return the vehicle, and then find my way back to the apartment. It was quite an ordeal, for me and the Spanish citizens who interacted with me for various purposes, including providing valuable feedback on my use of large roundabouts.

    As I walked back to the apartment I was sidetracked by quite a few fascinating sights and spectacles in Madrid. It was a Saturday so there were markets aplenty. One market I came across was just all bookstores selling second-hand books. There was a line of permanent wooden stalls that housed thousands of books in little stalls. It was amazing. Even though I can't read Spanish, and there wasn't an English book to be seen, the atmosphere was similar to the stalls on the walkway beside the Seine in Paris. I found a copy of Asterisk in Spain, in Spain, in Spanish.

    I also tried churros for the first time in Spain, having resisted until today. I ordered what I thought was going to be some churros with dipping sauce, but turned out to be churros completely covered with chocolate. A carb overload for sure. I was given a bag-full of them and I only just managed to finish them.

    Madrid is an entirely different kind of city from anything we have seen before in Spain. This is a much more modern city like Sydney or Melbourne. The crowds are packing into the city and its shoulder to shoulder. As our Airbnb hostess was keen and correct to emphasise - never bring a car into the centre of Madrid.    Läs mer

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  • Simon and Sam Europe Adventure

    Segway Tour of Madrid

    21 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    I came across a shopfront in Madrid, on the way back to our apartment after dropping off the hire car, that organises and runs Segway tours of Madrid. I have seen plenty of them running around many of the other cities we have been to, but it seemed today was a perfect time, and Madrid a perfect place, to give these cute two-wheelers a go. I booked a 2-hour private tour via Segway at 6:30 pm and then returned to the apartment and told Sam. He was very keen, as was I.

    We arrived promptly at 6:30 pm to begin the tour. It doesn't get dark here till 10:00 pm so things are just getting started in Spain at 6:30 pm. We were given instructions on how to ride the Segway, and a guide named Irene (what is it with girl guides named Irene in this country? we have only had two young female tour guides and both of them have been named Irene) proceeded to lead us on a 2-hour journey around the most beautiful sites in Madrid.

    Our tour took us through the gardens which were once part of the Royal Palace. The gardens had a French area, a huge greenhouse and a massive lake. The greenhouse was for plants from the Philippines (named that after Philip the King of France at the time of colonisation) and the massive lake was for mini naval battles using full-size galleons for the entertainment of the king and the nobles.

    We spent about an hour through the gardens, then we went on a tour through some of the older areas of Madrid. We saw the impressive Royal Palace and the Cathedral on the opposite side of the square, both built in renaissance style. We also visited the Main Square which dates from the 15th century and used to be used for bullfights. Also, it was used by the Inquisition to execute convicted heretics - about 4000 were executed in that square alone over the years. Franco, the dictator on Spain from 1939 to 1975 also like to use the square for executions. There were places for hangings, beheadings and garrotings. The last garrotting took place in the square in 1975 (yes, only a little over 40 years ago) under the orders of Franco.

    Ernest Hemingway, the famous American writer who spent a lot of time in France and Spain, travelled to Spain and fought in the Spanish Civil War in the 1930s. He also watched many bullfights here in Madrid. His famous book, For Whom The Bell Tolls, is based on his experiences fighting in the Spanish Civil War. He also wrote at least three books in which bullfighting plays a major part in the story, including Death In the Afternoon, and The Sun Also Rises. We saw the restaurants and cafes where Hemingway had a regular table and watched the Spanish day go by in the 1930s.

    We saw medieval prisons, the town hall, museums and concert halls, the world's oldest continually operating restaurant. I have visited at least three restaurants claiming to be the world's oldest, in various countries now, one in Paris, one in Vienna and now one in Madrid. The guide assured me that it was in the Guinness Book of Records so I will have to remember to consult it to verify the claim.

    The Segway Tour was a highlight. They are remarkably easy to control, despite them appearing very difficult to ride. They are very stable, extremely maneuverable, and quite speedy. I really thought these would be useful in Australian cities as an alternative to other modes of transport. They run on rechargeable batteries and go for at least 2-3 hours on each charge. I am not sure of the rules in Australia about their use, but I would presume the rule-makers and fun police would have outlawed them.    Läs mer

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  • Simon and Sam Europe Adventure

    Prado Museum

    22 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    Today we explored some of Madrid's most amazing sites - the Museo Nacional del Prado, the Palacio Real de Madrid, the Madrid Cathedral and the Royal Gardens. These places are magnificent.

    The Prado Museum takes its name from the "meadow" (Spanish "prado") which once existed in the area gave its name to the location in which the museum now stands. It is one of the pre-eminent art museums in the world. It's collection rivals the Louvre. There are some huge paintings in the collection, and many fine works by artists such as Goya, Rubens, El Greco, Titian, Valezquez, Rembrandt, Caravaggio, just to name a few. We spent four hours there and still did not see everything. It was an amazing place. The artworks are breath-taking. One could just look and the giant paintings by Rubens in the main arched hall for hours and still see new things in them. One of the paintings that captured my imagination was a 16th-century painting called The Triumph of Death by Pieter Brueghel the Elder. It depicts life as a battle between the forces of death and life, and that death is winning the war and everyone living is, or is soon to be, a prisoner and casualty of death, who is depicted as a scythe-wielding skeleton on a horse leading an army of skeletons swamping the army of the living. It is very graphic, almost cartoonish, and difficult to believe it was painted in 1562.

    There are many famous paintings in the Prado, and around every corner, there were new amazing sights to be seen.    Läs mer

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  • Simon and Sam Europe Adventure

    The Royal Palace

    22 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    The Royal Palace of Madrid was the next site to be explored. Spain currently has a monarchy - King Felipe VI. Spain has been through various versions of political constitution, including republic, dictatorship, monarchy. At the moment it is a parliamentary constitutional monarchy. In that sense, Spain is like Australia (except our monarch is really the Queen of England). There are two strong views in Spain - one group say that the monarchy should be eradicated in favour of a republic, and the other support the king. One of our guides said that one day there will be another civil war to decide the matter. Obviously all the previous civil wars have not decided the matter satisfactorily, so I'm not sure what another civil war will achieve.

    The Royal Palace is not the permanent residence of the King and his family, although it is used for special state occasions. The royal family live outside Madrid in a more peaceful setting. The Royal Palace is now used for state events and a whole wing of the palace is open to tourists. This wing is furnished as it was in the 18th century in the reign of Carlos 111 (Spanish for Charles 111). The sumptuous palace and its rooms are magnificent. The artwork and furnishings on display are much like the other great palaces in Europe. In fact, this royal palace is the largest palace in Europe by floor area. It has 3418 rooms. If you visited 10 rooms a day, it would take a year to visit all the rooms!

    The throne room in which the king received ambassadors is furnished as it was. The visitors would wait in a smallish room, to get acquainted with their smallish status, and then enter the grand throne room where the king (and queen) would be seated, elevated, and surrounded by royal fabrics and statues of lions with their paws resting on carved spheres, representing the power of Spain over the earth.

    There was one thing on display that particularly caught my eye. In one room there is a full quintet of Stradivarius string instruments of the highest quality. It is the only such set in the world. They are on display in glass cases. There are two violins, a viola and a cello, all decorated the same. Then there is an additional undecorated cello that is the finest instrument of them all and one of the best in the world. I wasn't expecting that. With all the crowns and gold sceptres around, it was these instruments that held the most value from my perspective. It was tempting to break the glass case right there and do some busking. The instruments are all set up ready to play, and apparently they do get played on special occasions. These instruments would be priceless, but I would reckon the set would be worth more than 150 million dollars if it went onto the market right now.

    The Royal Palace is worth a visit for a number of reasons, not least of which is the collection of Stradivarius string instruments. Unfortunately, photos are not allowed in most of the palace, so my photos are only those I could surreptitiously take when the security personnel weren't watching and they will be low quality.    Läs mer

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  • Simon and Sam Europe Adventure

    The Royal Gardens and the Cathedral

    22 juli 2018, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    The Royal Gardens are attached to the Royal Palace and are as impressive as would expect them to be. The largest palace in Europe is not going to be embarrassed by a small veggie patch and a few pot plants out the back. The formal gardens were huge and well kept. They were pleasant to stroll through and they are open for the Madrid residents and tourists to enjoy on the hot summer days.

    The Madrid Cathedral is very young as far as cathedrals are concerned. It was only completed in 1993, 110 years after the foundation stone was laid on 1883. When the capital of Spain moved from Toledo to Madrid in 1561, the seat of the church remained in Toledo. The cost of running and maintaining an empire came first for the monarchy, and then some wars with France, civil wars and other costly ventures diverted funds from a project that was alwayd meant to happen, but just didn't for lack of funds. Finally the project was completed in 1993. The external design is classical to fit in with the architecture of the royal palace across the square, but the inside is neo-gothic, a bit more modern. There is also a large crypt which is the same size as the cathedral itself, underneath, which was completed many years ago and houses some famous Spanish graves.

    After visiting the cathedral and the crypt, it was time to wander back through the streets of Spain for our last night in this amazing country. Tomorrow we fly to Paris. It has been an whirlwind tour, and an amazing journey, around this unforgettable country. Grazias, Espania.    Läs mer

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  • Simon and Sam Europe Adventure
    111

    Goodbye to Spain

    23 juli 2018, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    This morning Sam and I packed up our Airbnb apartment in the centre of Madrid and caught the train to the airport. The metro in Madrid is pretty good and it was not difficult to find our way to the airport. We boarded a small plane booked with European budget airline, Vueling. We grabbed something quick to eat at the airport and then boarded the plane. It was not long and we were in the air, on our way to Paris, glimpsing out the plane window the last views of Spain for some time to come. We have enjoyed our three weeks immensely, but who knows if we will ever have the opportunity to come back to this unique country.

    We touched down in Paris at about 1:00 pm. We went straight through without delay, as Spain and France are both parts of the European Union. The international tourist with carry-on luggage can walk straight from the plane out of the airport and onto the next adventure. So we did.

    We caught the train to the centre of Paris. The station we alighted from was Chatelet Les Halles, not far from the Seine and very close to our next Airbnb. Our host, Rachel, met us and showed us around our very spacious and rather luxurious Paris apartment. We can walk to Notre Dame and the Louvre in five minutes from here. What a great spot.

    It wasn't long when Ben and Emily came around to our apartment. They arrive in Paris one day ahead of us. They have really enjoyed their trip to England and Scotland. They are having a great time. We swapped stories for a while and then ventured out for a walk.

    We headed first to the Louvre, to see the magnificent palace of Louis IV and his predecessors. We walked past the famous pyramid of the Louvre and through the Tuileries gardens to the Place de la Concord, where Marie Antoinette and many others had their heads separated from their bodies by the guillotine during the upheavals of the French Revolution.

    We met Sam and Jo Ryan, who had been up to the Arch de Triumph, and then we walked to Eglise de Madeleine, Place Vendome where the Ritz is located, to Angelina's coffee shop and then back to the Tuileries gardens to go on a ride at the Fair that is set up in those gardens. We went on a crazy roundabout which gave us a rotating view of the skyline of Paris. Then we enjoyed some churros and citrus gelati.

    We then decided at 7:00 pm that we would go to the Eiffel Tower and buy a ticket and go to the top. We waited for a bus near the Louvre for about 25 minutes in a queue (it wasn't to be our first queue of the night). The bus finally arrived and it was chock full of commuters. We pushed our way in and squeezed a few extras in by breathing in. This bus took us to the base of the Eiffel Tower.

    We waited in the queue for a ticket for two hours. After we bought the ticket we were expecting to go straight into the lift. What we then learned is that the queue for the lift was another 45 minutes, which we dutifully waited. When we finally got to the second level it was about 10:30 pm. Then we waited in the queue for 30 minutes for the lift to take us to the top. We got to the top at about 11:00 pm.

    We spent about 15 minutes at the top, then got in the queue to descend down to level 2. We got to level 2 at about 11:40 pm. Then we got into the queue to descend to the ground, another fifteen minutes. It was just before midnight when we saw the ground again. We caught the bus back in the direction of our apartment. Then we caught a train the rest of the way. Then we grabbed some McDonalds for dinner at 12:45 am, then finally got to bed about 1:30 am.

    We were in Spain this morning. Now we have just walked around Paris and been on top of the Eiffel Tower. Eating fries from McDonalds at 1:00 am was not the most unusual part of the day. It was an amazing day. And we were able to share much of it with Ben, Emily, Sam and Jo. Very special.    Läs mer

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