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TMB (Tour du Mont Blanc) Trail

Numerous years of dreaming and 1 year of planning. As per Laurie's wish we are tackling the famous TMB - Tour de Mont Blanc Trail, and doing it somewhat "in style" as we engaged Mac Adventures & booked their Extended TMB in Huts tour (13 days) Baca selengkapnya
  • EoD musings

    7 Juli 2024, Perancis ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    So... this was not exactly a piece of cake walk in the woods.
    While I'm not going to say that, we struggled, but it wasn't easy even with that initial shave of time and distance.
    At times, the trail was very muddy and slippery, and in those conditions, going down is worse than up.
    Here are some stats
    The elevation map of the trek from Bellevue Station and a video summarized the walk of the day
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  • Notre Dame de la Gorge

    8 Juli 2024, Perancis ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    The Notre-Dame-de-la-Gorge chapel is located in the commune of Les Contamines-Montjoie ( Haute-Savoie ) at the bottom of the Val Montjoie , at an altitude of 1,210 metres, on the edge of the Bon-Nant . Present since at least the 11th century , this former parish church was built in a Baroque style between 1699 and 1707. It has been listed as a historic monument since 2015.

    https://fr.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chapelle_Notre-…
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  • Chalet de la Balme

    8 Juli 2024, Perancis ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Situated at the heart of the nature reserve, this mountain refuge hut sits at the foot of the Pennaz needles (2688m) in the direction of the Bonhomme mountain pass.
    We stopped at a well-deserved break
    While Laurie opted for Orangina, I went for lemonade with Grenadone concoction
    This is also the last time that any communications will be possible for quite a while - a couple of more meters up and the signal just does not get that high
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  • Up up and away

    8 Juli 2024, Perancis ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    We continue climbing up after our rest.
    Running slightly behind, but it's so hard not to stop and take another picture
    Plenty of waterfalls and some look and sound like raging rivers
    Actually had to cross 2 of those. Quite an unnerving experience trying to put your foot into a water that is running like 100 MPH (on stepping stones of course) and move fast enough that it doesn't get into your boots! 😲 Poles help..
    Bunch of beautiful wild mountain flowers as well
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  • Up to and on Col de Bonhomme

    8 Juli 2024, Perancis ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Hit our first patch/field of snow that we had to cross
    Also saw our first ibex, but you really have to zoom in on the 2 photos (R2 P2 & 3) to see him/her ( no way to tell)
    Crested the Col... but getting tired and slowing down a lot
    ...Saw 2nd Ibex shorty after starting for Col de Croix Bonhomme... but it's not good - it means we are running out of time to complete the walk as they usually come out towards the evening
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  • Col de la Croix du Bonhomme

    8 Juli 2024, Perancis ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

    The Col de la Croix du Bonhomme is a pass in France located in the Alps , in the south of the Mont Blanc massif , in Savoie . Located at an altitude of 2,408 metres, it is adjacent to the Col du Bonhomme (2,329 m ) to the northwest and the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme refuge (2,443 m ) to the northeast, between the Crête des Gittes (2,538 m ) to the southwest and the Tête Sud des Fours (2,716 m ) to the northeast.

    At this point, the Refuge Col de la Croix du Bonhomme is our only hope. It's getting on 8:30 pm, the sun is going down fast and even under the better conditions and circumstances we would not dare to attempt a 9km descend in the dark.
    In addition, Laurie is complaining that one of her knees hurt and she might have a blister (or worse) so choices here are few to none.
    However, The Lord is Good, and Camino still Provides! 🙏 We are able to secure the last 2 bunks at the Refuge!😃
    They are in the 6-bunk dorm (and of course, at this point, neither one of us cares if we sleep on the floor) and they more than graciously open the kitchen that was already closed to provide us with yummy vegetable soup, quiche Fromage and some little cakes for dessert.
    So we are safe and situate ourselves in our dorm (Laurie's 1st) after the dinner, trying to "asses the damage."
    When Laurie takes off her socks, I almost lose my mind as the big toe is completely bloody 🙃😯..... and only after 5-10 seconds or so it dawns on me that I am looking at the Deep Burgundy nail polish color of my wife's pedicure (phew!) 😁
    Thankfully, there are no blisters, the feet get the usual nightly treatment (Crème de la Pied), but the knee is worrisome.
    Some Ibuprofen to take the edge off, and both of us are hitting the pillows (I took the upper bunk nice husband that I am) in a matter of seconds....
    The sunset is still beautiful and the views are stupendous
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  • EoD 2 (as in 2 tired to muse)

    8 Juli 2024, Perancis ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    Definitely bit more than we could chew, and the seriousness begins to dawn on us.
    I guess it was very easy to be swayed by all the YouTube blog videos and let our guards down. Too many "rookie" mistakes that should not have been materialized on this day (I most likely should carry the majority of the blame because "I should've known better" - I have more experience).
    In any case, again, we are safe and will have to see what tomorrow will bring
    All the stats for today
    As you can see in the elevation profile, we made it to the highest point but never came down
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  • What comes up must come down

    9 Juli 2024, Perancis ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    The morning was Serene
    The breakfast - quite plain (bread & jam, cereal, café au Lait)
    The sleep - much needed
    So we are fed and rested, but Laurie's knee continues to bother her
    5.76km distance took us almost 4 hours moving through some more snow patches, rapid streams,deep mud, and steep descendsBaca selengkapnya

  • Rest in Les Chapieux

    9 Juli 2024, Perancis ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Located on a remote part of the Tour du Mont Blanc, Les Chapieux is a small hamlet surrounded by steep hills and inhabited by shepherds and their goats and sheep.

    We stop for a much needed break at Les Chambres du Soleil - one of only 2 Auberges here (still no phone or internet connections) and fortify ourselves with Salade Montagnarde (which is some greens with ham, cheese and little nuts) washed down with some lemonade and fresh mountain water.

    The second Auberge -The Auberge de la Nova is where we would have been last night (not the initially scheduled one either - there is a very kind story to that which we will tell verbally upon return) It has welcomed hikers, explorers and locals for over 120 years and notably served as a refuge for French resistance fighters in the WWII...I think that would've been cool...
    Regardless, It is now apparent that there will be no more walking today and possibly at all 🥲
    We need to figure out a way to get to our next waypoint
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  • Crossing the Alps

    9–11 Jul 2024, Perancis ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    The hostess informed us that there are no public transportation to where we need to go - Courmayeur Italy - only taxicabs with a very hefty price ( due to the fact that it's a 2 hour trip one-way crossing the Alps and then the guy has to come back empty).
    Again, we have no choice...
    And again, God is Great and Camino Provides 😁
    A guy comes into the little terrace where we sit with 2 kids to buy them ice cream.
    I hear Polish when he talks to them, so I strike up a conversation... and Lo and Behold!, they are going to Courmayeur, and he already secured the taxi!
    Would we like to share?!
    WOULD WE?! 😁
    So in a short time, all 6 of us (his wife) are off crossing the Alps in a typical switchbacks/hairpins turns going up to and through the St. Bernard Pass
    (Yes!THE St. Bernard! Would've been very nice to stop - there are signs, monuments, St Bernard the dog statues...)
    The photos are still in Fance shortly before the Pass. We stopped because the little girl didn't feel well, so a breath of fresh air was needed (and frankly, I was very happy for that chance myself)
    Once over the Pass - Bienvenuto Italia! - and we go through the same sets of switchbacks and turns only now going down.
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  • Hotel Crampon

    9 Juli 2024, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Our abode for 3 nights
    Very nice place
    Our private room
    View from the balcony
    Bathroom - Laurie got enamored by the tiles
    Flowers for Julie and a door for Nancy Ish- both long overdue

  • Mixed feelings

    9 Juli 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    First things first, we stopped at Farmacia, where a technician volunteered to walk us to a local Dr's office.

    Now, Doctore came in, not stinking of gin
    And proceeded to lie on the table
    He said, "Laurie, you met-a your match-a
    No mor-eh hike-a Monte Blanco too much-a"...

    Or something like that, but you get the picture. He was a really nice guy, and him and I even swapped the stories of our youth travels - he wasin U.S. when he was 14, and I - in Italy when I was 15 - but all pleasantries aside the verdict was to stop, with bed rest, icing the knee and eating anti-inflammatory meds (we were duly prepared fir this type of emergency by having proper pills and bringing 2 ice packs).

    We went to dinner 6, somewhat sad and disappointed...and of course in the midst of it... Happy birthday, Laurie! - not exactly the way we envisioned the celebration to be ... but life is what happens when you are busy making other plans and some plans don't exactly end the way we envision them.

    So we cross the street to Pizzeria L'angolo di Mel and console ourselves with a celebratory Boutella a Vino Rosso and a place specialty - La Stella di Mel

    Laurie by now is visibly tired so we retreat back to the room, follow the prescribed regime and call it a night.
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  • EoD Day 3

    9 Juli 2024, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    The elevation profile is the same ad yesterday's only now we are descending from the high point to the right

    I stopped the Relieve tracking at le Chapieux since the intention always was to track the hike proper. So it dies not include the ride to Courmayeur and will not be used again for the remainder of the trip.Baca selengkapnya

  • Courmayeur morning

    10 Juli 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    I'm sure the morning is going Cerene but no video (sorry, Mandy)
    We are still understandably bummed but the views are still crazily good, and we ARE BLESSED in being able to see and experience as much as we did.

    The hotel has awesome spread for breakfast
    Variety of cereals, breaks, croissants, fruit salads, local hams and cheeses, pancakes, scrambled eggs, and tons of yummy looking desserts (which we regrettably do pass on)

    We go back to the room afterwards, and while Laurie continues to Ice the 6 go through all the machinations necessary for us to interrupt the trip and return home a full week before planned departure.

    I will not bore you with all the minute details of that task! Suffice to say that the new-normal world sucks, absolutely everything is a nightmare and may things never go wrong for anyone! Much angst and frustration it adds.

    It took a while, but we got it straightened out.

    We are supposed to stay here for 2 more nights. (Yesterday we would've hicked from Les Chapieux to a given bus stop and take the bus to Courmayeur.
    Today, we would've taken the bus back to that point and hiked INTO Courmayeur proper.
    Tomorrow would be a rest day to play tourists.
    The hike would thus be resumed on Friday the 12th)

    Instead, we will spend these 2 remaining days pretty much staying put and then will be taking a bus to Geneva on the 12th
    and flying back home on the morning of the 13th
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  • Courmayeur

    10 Juli 2024, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Not much Laurie can do
    I ventured out to do some recon as to where the bus station is and to scope out other eateries

    I come up to Piazza Abbe Henry check out the views there
    Nice to notice that China and France are our 2 "better" friends
    Preview the Alpine Society building which also houses Museo Alpino duca dealing Abruzzi
    Go into Parrochia Santo Panteleone (couple extra prayers and lots of thanks never hurt)
    Drop to Vallée Blanche - Traversata Monte Bianco looking at the crowd enjoying Gelato and crepes
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  • Courmayeur 2

    10 Juli 2024, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Laurie was finally able to venture out so we made our way to Vallée Blanche - Traversata Monte Bianco and comfortably settled in at Bar Visteria Walser and ordered 2 Weihenstepheners.
    (I tell ya those bottles are quite large .75L)
    We expected a small bowl of chips as it's customary and it did appear sure enough, but then this tray of foccacchias and local mortadella appeared per grati!
    Not too shabby fir a little break.
    We then took a little stroll taking in on little streets past Piazza Padre Henri and more into the town
    Of course there are tiny streets and awesome fruits (we did buy some for later enjoyment; the cherries were expensive but huuuge) and
    cool buildings and
    Camino boot 😉 and
    alleyways and courtyards and
    doors and flowers and
    yummy Bakery stuff and
    strange ancient carvings in the wall and even Klingon Ships
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  • Dinner

    10–14 Jul 2024, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    We strongly believe that good deed should be rewarded and so we returned to Bar Osteria Walser and boy no disappointment here!
    Camparo Spritz
    Salate mixta
    Trota di Morgex al cartoccio
    The server very skilfully fileted the Trout for us and in the end surprised us with 2 shots of Liquirizzia (Licorice liqueur) "from his own house" ( we think he probably is a member of the folks who make the wine) or maybe he does mean his HOUSE?
    All in all, amazing food and great friendly service
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  • Courmayeur 3

    11 Juli 2024, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Another beautiful sunny day and we have to stay put.
    More ice after breakfast which continues to be top notch
    About noon Ish I ventured out for some recon and briefly walked though some parts of Courmayeur we have not been beforeBaca selengkapnya

  • Linner today

    11 Juli 2024, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Laurie finally had enough staying in, so we strike out for Linner and decided to return to Osteria Walser ( on my part, basically, any other restaurants would require more walking and doing uphills/downhills... plus the food was really good so let's hope for the repeat this time around)

    We were not disappointed for a second off a second!!

    Aperol Spritz
    Franciacorta (Prosecco)

    Trio di Bruschetta - Bruschetta Mix (Tomatoes - Buffalo Mozzarella - Smoked scamorza cheese) shared app

    Carbonada con polenta - Laurie
    (Carbonada is a typical dish from the Aosta Valley , originating in Belgium and northern France ( especially Lille ) and widespread in Belgium, the western Alps, and south-eastern France .
    https://it.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbonada)

    Tris di stufati con polenta - YT
    (Polenta with venison, sausages and carbonada stews)

    And of corse the liqueur came out again per gratis this time we took a pic of the bottle so perhaps he did mean the "house" as his private stash as it is not produced and bottled locally...
    It still tasted good 👍 😋
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  • Arivederci Courmayeur

    12 Juli 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Last morning in Courmayeur
    It rained, and thunderstormed last night pretty bad! And boom-booms like we've never heard before
    We reckon it's because the thunder bounces off the mountains
    Last picture if the door
    Shortly after another scrumptious breakfast, we check out (BTW, the family that runs is the Gravil family - descendents of the guy who invented the Crampon) and make our way to the main bus terminal
    Just in time for it begins to rain again very steady.
    Lots of folks are at the station either abandoning the TMB all together or skipping today's stage and trying to move to the next one (The buzz is that it's not very nice "up there" with nasty bolts of lightning and overrun rivers and creeks)
    The 3 young kids behind Laurie 1st considered walking to the next stage via main roads not TMB but in the end, decided against it and caught the next bus behind ours to Chamonix and then will go to Austria 😄
    So perhaps it's all for the best anyway...
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  • Onto GVA

    12 Juli 2024, Perancis ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    On the way to Geneva Airport
    We had a ticket to go to Geneva on the 19th
    When we disembarked in Chamounix, the lady at the ticket office told us she could not refund that trip, but she could get us on an earlier bus now. So we saved slightly more than an hour sitting in Chamounix and boarded a 12:40 bus instead of 1:30 pm. I absolutely will take it as the weather is not good at all all over the region, but I'm hoping we might be able to hit a small lull window in Geneva

    I know it's hard to see, but we are going through the Mont Blanc Tunnel

    Couple more shots of The Alps with the final look of Mont Blanc still visible through the rear bus window
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