The Glory inside

So I woke up and had breakfast and got to the church early for The Port of Glory. The great entrance by Master Sculptor Matteo from Galicia. He was paid a handsome sum over years by King Ferdinand to create a great portal into the cathedral that houses the remains of St. James The Greater, Apostle and martyr. The work set the tone for the sculpture used in Spanish Romanesque style, it would go on to influence Gothic works. I was not allowed to take pictures or touch anything and they only let a few people in at a time. Beautiful amazing complex work it had recently undergone extensive research and conservation, hence the limits. The tradition of touching the center support by the many faithful Peregrinos over 800 years had worn a hand hold into the stone, so this has been stopped. For a full description with pictures see here:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portico_of_Glory

I found the leering prophet Daniel. His head is angled differently from the others, eyes wide in a leer, it’s almost immediately noticeable. The bishop at the time followed Daniel’s eyes across the hallway to a statue of a female saint. She had been rendered with quite large breasts. Unhappy, the bishop required Master Mateo to modify the female saint to a more winsome demeanor. The local Galicians got word of the order and took offense, Master Mateo was their greatest sculptor having been called to places all over Spain to work. The Galician cheese makers decided to create a specially shaped cheese to voice the regional displeasure, and that is how Galician “titilla” (little breast) cheese came about.

I attended Pilgrims Mass at high noon, going 90 minutes early to secure a good seat. I got word from my roof tour guide that a rare use of the botafumerio might occur then. The amazing glory of the altar cannot be understated. Incredible Baroque and Roccoco gold leaf works of an incredible and awe inspiring scale. The Angels holding up the ciborium (altar canopy) are over 30 feet tall.

Sure enough the botafumerio flew. It’s seen more this year because The Pope declared an extension to last years holy year and due to the millions lost during the Covid-19 epidemic. It is a five foot tall incense thurible made of a brass alloy and plated with a 2 micrometer coating of silver. It weighs 80 kilogram and is suspended from the transcept by a mechanism devised and place in the early 1600s. It takes 8 deacons or talioboleiros to swing it. It has hit the cathedral ceiling, over eight stories up, 6 times and come untied twice.

I concluded my visit with a trip down to the crypt where St. James’ relics lie. They no longer allow the public to climb behind the statue on the altar for a hug of the Apostle.Read more