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Camino de Santiago
  • Steve Barber
  • Charity Morris
May – Jul 2024

Camino de Santiago

A 49-day adventure by Steve & Charity Read more
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  • Camino de Santiago
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    Leon - Astorga - Ponferrada

    Jun 16–17, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Day 26. Due to a painful injury, we opted to condense several days of the Camino to get back on schedule. Public transportation in Spain is top notch, and for just a few Euros we covered several days of walking in just a couple of hours. Our first stop was Astorga where we toured the Gaudi palace and enjoyed their signature chocolate. The palace was gifted to a local bishop upon his retirement by the local families. However, he was a humble man and believed it was far to magnificent to make his home, and thus unoccupied for many years. It was converted to a government building after the Spanish civil war and remained so until after General Franco's death in 1979. It is now a museum housing many cultural and religious artifacts with some dating before the birth of Christ.
    After leaving Astorga, we travelled through long, winding mountain passes to reach Ponferrada. We toured the Templar Castle constructed in 1226 to guard the Camino, and protect the pilgrims on the way to Santiago from Moorish incursions along with bandits. At the heart of the city is the beautiful Basilica Virgin de la Encina.    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago

    Ponferrada - Villafranca de Bierzo

    June 17, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Day 27. We arrived in Villafranca del Beirzo. The town was quiet for the most part. We stayed in the Iglesia de San Nicolas el real, and ate a quiet meal in the town square. It had beautiful gardens in the middle of town which were well maintained. In the middle-ages, pilgrims who were too ill to continue were permitted to end their pilgrimage at the Iglesia de Santiago and consider it a success. We stopped at a local farm store and purchased our own Pimentos de Padron seeds for our garden at home.Read more

  • Camino de Santiago

    Villafranca de Bierzo - Vega de Valcarce

    Jun 18–19, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Day 28. A rainy morning out of Villafranca del Bierzo with squishy shoes and a long walk to find coffee. The Camino followed a busy road through a gorge with green mountains stretching high above us. We passed under high over passes on our way to Vega de Valcarce.
    We stayed in the Albergue El Paso nestled at the foot of the mountains we would have to cross the next day to reach O'Cebreiro.    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago

    Vega de Valcarce - O’Cebriero

    June 19, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Day 29. After departing Vega de Valcarce, we walked along small roads until we reached Las Herrerias where we opted to ride horse up the mountain. It was a magical day of leisurely riding horses while enjoying the beautiful, mountain views.
    The strong celtic connection in the first stop in Galicia, O'Cebreiro, is easily seen in the stone buildings with thatched roofs. The mountain village is home to the oldest church on the Camino Frances which was originally built in the 8th century. We stayed in Venta Celta pension and ate Pulpo de Galego at a local resteraunt.    Read more

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    O'Cebreiro -Triacastilla - Samos

    Jun 21–22, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

    Day 30-31. A bus ride from O'Cebriero to Triacastella through dense fog on mountain roads made us both nervous. Although we were still plagued with injuries, it would be the last time we had the chance to take a bus before reaching Santiago. The remainder of our Camino must be walked from this point onward.
    We had a quiet rest day in Triacastella of laundry, snacks and movies before heading out the next morning on our way to Samos. It was a beautiful walk through green foliage, rolling hills and stone stacked walls which was reminiscent of Ireland. A friendly cow received a nose rub.    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago

    Samos Monastery

    June 21, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    The Samos monastery has been in operation since the 5th century. The ornate architecture and beautiful murals filled every glance of the eye. The garden in the cloister was nothing short of breath taking. The monk who gave us the tour of the monastery was very kind, but due to our limited Spanish were unable to understand much of what he told us. We purchased Orujo, "Spanish, grape, liqour", from the monks and attended Mass.Read more

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    Samos - Sarria

    Jun 22–23, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Day 32-33. A beautiful walk through forests and parks on our way to Sarria. The city of Sarria is the final starting point for pilgrims on the Camino Frances. It is 108 kilometers from Santiago and the shortest distance one can walk to earn a Compostela. This was the last day of our pilgrimage before we were joined by droves of brand-new, noisy pilgrims. We stayed in Sarria an extra day due to ongoing injuries.Read more

  • Camino de Santiago

    Sarria - Ferreiros

    Jun 23–24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    Day 34. There were tons of new pilgrims on the way to Santiago today. Although it was crowded, the way was still pleasant and full of experiences. An unattended table of snacks was left for pilgrims . Brimming with food and drink by donation, these tables pop up from time to time when they are most needed.
    A friendly donkey greeted us after first breakfast. We passed by an horreo, a relic of a bygone era, where grain was stored to keep it safe from pests. We ended our walk at a small hamlet that is off stage to avoid the hordes of pilgrims that were on the road since Sarria.    Read more

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    Ferreious - Portomarin

    Jun 25–26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Day 35. Just after starting the day, we passed the 100km marker. The walk to Portomarin was short, but a treacherous ravine slowed us down on our descent into the town. At the bottom of this ravine, we found a very small, frail, french woman who appeared about 75 years old named Marie.
    She was struggling with her backpack. Pulling it down the dangerous path in surges until she got to the last few feet. Along with a young Spaniard named Miguel, we escorted her into town to find her something to eat. As we walked, she told us she is camping along the Way and that is why her pack was so heavy. At best guess, her pack was 50 lbs. Her struggle and determination was inspirational.
    Of course, at the end of the walk there were more stairs to get into Portomarin, but thankfully not as steep as the ones in Sarria.
    The main attraction in Portomarin is the 12th century church that was torn down block by block and moved up a steep hill when the town was relocated. When the government decided to flood the valley the original town and the church were located, the people loved The church was loved so much they decided to move it. It took 5 years from 1956-1961! It looks like it was always there. The work it had to have taken to build in the 12th century was immense but to tear down and move must have been quite the feat! If you look closely at the blocks you can still see a number on them. I guess to use to put the puzzle back together! There is also makers marks on many of the stones from the stonemasons from the 12th century.    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago

    Portomarin - Ventas De Naron

    Jun 26–27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    Day 36. An especially busy day on the Camino. At times, there were so many pilgrims the road it suffered traffic jams. We tried to stop for breakfast but the queue of pilgrims was daunting so we moved on. Often, we walked along roads with busy cars wizzing by us. We stopped in a resteraunt / albergue in Ventas de Naron for the day. A pilgrim walking with three dogs stopped at the resteraunt for a rest, and an unsuspecting group of teenage pilgrims got too close to the man. The dogs barked at the kids until they scattered. A good nights rest.Read more

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    Ventas de Naron - San Xulian

    Jun 27–28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Day 37. A leisurly walk today. We took our our time and stopped at every cafe along the way. In this part of Galicia, there are eucalyptus trees and their smell filled the air. We passed several concrete crosses called Crucerios. Some are as old as the Camino itself, and in the time of the Templar Knights were the original markers of the Camino de SantiagoRead more

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    San Xulian do Camiño - Boente

    Jun 28–29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Day 38. We were able to break free from the crowds of pilgrims that have been on the Way since Sarria. While not nearly as quiet as it was in the early weeks of our journey, it was still enjoyable.
    In Melide, we stopped for lunch at the famous Pulperia de Garnacha where we enjoyed pulpo, pimentos de Padron, and cervezas grande. It was devine.
    We saw a lot of funny graffiti and bought trinkets from hippies along the way. We ended our day in albergue Boente. It had a pool that was closed but they did allow us to put our feet in the water. It was ice cold.    Read more

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    Camino do Boente - O Pedrouzo

    Jun 29–30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Day 39. Lots of flowers today. The flowers are just amazing. The walk was long and lots of up and downhill. But mostly a beautiful walk.

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    O Pedrouzo-Monte de Gozo

    Jun 30–Jul 1, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Day 40. On the second to the last day of our Camino, the rain finally caught us. The morning was a pleasant walk surrounded by eucalyptus trees and beautiful flowers. However, by noon the clouds burst, and we spent the next couple hours drenched.
    The dirt paths we walked gave way to small paved roads as we moved closer to the city. By the time we reached the suburb of Monte de Gozo, the sun was shining brightly. We walked across the park, stood by the pilgrim monuments, and had our first glimpse of the cathedral in the distance. Its spires towering over the city.
    We stayed in the hotel Santiago Apostol at the edge of town, so that we could arrive early the next morning at the pilgrim's office and Cathedral.    Read more

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    Santiago de Compestella

    Jul 3–5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    Day 41. We made it. As we hobbled down the morning streets of Santiago, each step brought us closer to the Cathedral. A journey that has take us many weeks to accomplish.
    We started in St Jean Pied de Port 798 km ago, and despite sore legs and a few injuries, we walked into the Praza de Obradoiro at the end of our pilgrimage. We sat in the shadow of the cathedral for a while, and let it soak in before heading to the Pilgrim's Office to receive our Compostelas. We checked into Libredón Rooms, and spent the remainder of the day touring the Cathedral.
    The following morning we attended Pilgrim's Mass and were fortunate enough to witness the swinging of the Botafumiero, a 140 lb censor that requires eight men to operate and dates to the middle ages. We visited the tomb of St. James under the alter, toured the pilgrim museum, and walked the roof of the cathedral where the Spaniards turned us loose to walk around as we wished.
    The pilgrimage definitely reminded us how much we rely on God to carry us through the difficult roads we walk both physical and metaphorical. Many a prayer was spoken in the last 41 days, for each other, our children and grandchildren.
    A large amount of our time in Santiago was spent in the Praza de Obradoiro watching pilgrims arrive to the Cathedral. It was by a bit of Camino Magic that a pair of Italian brothers that we met in Orisson arrived the day after we did. We shared a hug. It was good to see them again and know they made it.
    All in all it was an adventure of a lifetime that we will always remember along with the tattoos from Sagrado Corazón.    Read more

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    Finisterra

    Jul 4–5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 66 °F

    Day 43 - Day 44. The End of the World that leads to a big question. We left Santiago de Compostela and travelled to Cape Fisterra. During the time of the Roman Empire, Cape Fisterra was known as Finis Terra which translates from Latin as "The End of the World." The Romans believed it to be the edge of the world beyond which there was nothing.
    We walked along a beach as the tide was coming in, collected sea shells, and ate BBQ at a resteraunt in someone's backyard. We made our way to the lighthouse before sunset. After walking around the rocky cliffs over the ocean and just as the sun was starting to set, Steve asked a pretty big question. On a cliff overlooking the North Atlantic, he proposed. Through the journey to get here, we knew we would go to the End of the World for each other.    Read more

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    Muxia

    Jul 5–6, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Day 45-Day 46. The Beautiful church by the sea, "Our Lady of the Stone Boat" is breathtaking. Ocean waves crash on nearby rocks just a few meters away from the main entrance, and located between the church and the sea is the Stone Boat. A rock structure that strongly resembles the hull of a boat. One of the stories about St. James' return to Spain after being martyred, involves him travelling on a stone boat from Jerusalem.
    We spent the night in a hotel. The sound of the ocean waves through our open window was magical. It was a perfect ending to our pilgrimage, but just an opening chapter in our life together.    Read more

    Trip end
    July 8, 2024
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