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Camino de Santiago
  • Steve Barber
  • Charity Morris
May – Jul 2024

Camino de Santiago

A 49-day adventure by Steve & Charity Read more
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  • Trip start
    May 21, 2024
  • Camino de Santiago

    Saint Jean Pied de Port

    May 22, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

    A day of rest and exploration of the old town. We spent the evening in le’ Chemin vers l’Etoile albergue. Due to a lingustic mistake, we ordered an entire bottle of wine which we enjoyed to the last drop.Read more

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    Saint Jean Pied de Port-Refuge Orrison

    May 23–24, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Day one of the Pilgrimage. The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step, or so the old saying goes. Today was HARD. While, it was only five miles, it was straight up a mountain that was both physically and mentally challenging. We made it to Refuge Orisson and had a most enjoyable day with other Peregrinos. After a communal meal complete with wine, each pilgrim was able to share their individual purpose for their pilgrimage. Everyone has their own reason for walking the Camino de Santiago.Read more

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    Orrison Refuge - Roncesvalles

    May 24–25, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 45 °F

    Day 2. Refuge Orisson, France to Roncesvalles, Spain. A day of unexplainable beauty. We walked eleven miles, of which seven and a half were straight up the Pyrenees mountains. We encountered free roaming horses, sheep, and we saw the memorial for the battle of Roncevalles where Count Roland and his army were slain in the Valley of Thorns. After a hard day of crossing from France into Spain, we limped into the 12th century monsatery of Roncesvalles which now serves as a pilgrim's hostel. They provided wonderful accommodations, a pilgrims meal and the chance to wash our clothes in a washer and not a sink.Read more

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    Roncesvalles - Zubiri

    May 25–26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Day 3. Roncesvalles to Zubiri. After being awoken by Gregorian chants, we embarked on a day that turned out to be more mentally and physically exhausting than the trip across the Pyrennes. The beauty was undeniable, and so was the pain. Thirteen miles total and over 30,000 steps travelled.
    We were greeted in Zubiri at Albergue Zaldiko, afterwhich w soaked our feet in the beautiful Arga river. Buen Camino.    Read more

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    Zubiri - Pamplona

    May 26–27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Day 4. Zubiri to Pamplona. Due to a snoring pilgrim in the albergue, we had a tough start to the day with little sleep, and the day would only get hardeer. Due to it being Sunday, all cafes were closed so food would have to wait until we reached Pamplona.
    However, we were blessed with beautiful weather, and the chance to take a small detour to the Church of San Estaban "St. Steven." The beautiful, 12th century church is well maintained and we even had a chance to climb the bell tower and ring the bell. An act that only Pilgrims (Peregrinos) get the honor of doing. We limped into Pamplona a few hours later because of a foot injury.    Read more

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    Pamplona Rest day

    May 26–27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Day 5. Rest day in Pamplona. A bustling city, where families congregate in the Plaza de Castillo and the many streets of Old Town. We sampled multiple Tapas bars while visiting with locals and other pilgrims. We toured the 15th century Cathedral of Santa Maria la real, and marvelled at the relics of a bygone era surrounded by Neo Classical and Gothic architecture. Regardless of religious convictions, anyone can appreciate the cathedral's beauty, history, and all the love it houses. We traversed the Encinerro route where the "Running of the Bulls" occurs every July during the festival of San Fermin. A day of relaxation, chocolate pie, tapas, and coffee at cafe Iruna.Read more

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    Pamplona - Zariquiegui

    May 28–29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

    Day 6. Pamplona to Zariquiegui.
    After an eventful stay in Jesus y Maria Albergue, the "Home of No Toilet Seats", our day began. It was what one would imagine the Camino to be: a beautiful walk through Pamplona, it's suburbs, and into the countryside surrounded by fields of wheat and growing sunflowers. We took an easier day due to injuries, and only walked eight miles. The combination of the sun and breeze across the wheat fields was hypnotizing.
    All along the Camino, there are memorials to fallen pilgrims. Often found in the shade of trees, pilgrims stop to visit the memorials and take shelter from the Sun. We ended our day by staying in a tiny hamlet at the foot of Alto del Perdon, "the Hill of Forgiveness." The small Albergue was a welcome stop where we ate, drank, and toured the church of Saint Andres. It is unique due to its components dating to the 11th, 14th and 17th century in Romanesque, Gothic, and Neo Classical design.    Read more

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    Zariquiegui - Puenta de la Reina

    May 29–30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Day 7. We started out the day hiking up to Alto de Perdon, which we believe is so named, because of the forgiveness you need for the choice words used while ascending the mountain. The top was windy and cold, but provided amazing views. Snails and pink honeysuckle were found all along the way amongst almond trees and olive groves.
    After descending from Alto del Perdon, we stopped in a little town for breakfast and rest. Then a longer, alternative route took us off the pilgrim route, but was worth the effort as it allowed us to see an 11th century Templar church.
    Total distance for the day was fourteen miles when we arrived at Puenta de la Reina. We stayed a the Hotel Jakue, and after the long, very hot day, the place felt like an oasis in the desert.    Read more

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    Puenta de la Reina - Lorca

    May 30–31, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Day 8. After crossing the Arga river via the medieval bridge of Puenta de la Reina "The Queen's Bridge", we returned to the countryside. Where we were greeted by fields of poppies, and the yellow, Spanish Brooms. Later, olive groves and vineyards lined the way and escorted us to the ancient town of Cirauqui. Known in the middle ages as "The Viper's Nest", Cirauqui's bandits once robbed pilgrims of everything including their pants then sent them on their way to Santiago de Compostella.
    We stayed at a small albergue above a bar in Lorca where an odd pair of pilgrims, Andy and Miguel, provided entertainment through there hijinx. A communal meal ended our day which we shared with pilgrims from Germany, South Africa, Oregon, and Texas.    Read more

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    Lorca - Estella

    May 31–Jun 1, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    Day 9. On the way to Estella, we stopped at the 11th Century Monastery of San Miguel. While little more than ruins, it was still beautiful. Nestled in an olive grove, San Miguel provided a respite and a glance back thorugh time.
    After we arrived in Estella, we explored both the churches of San Andres and San Juan Baptista along with the ruins of St Peter and the Holy Sepulcher. Along the way, we encounted a questionable, clown fountain.
    Snails where everywhere, and perhaps cheering us on. We finished the day with Paella.    Read more

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    Estella - Los Arcos

    Jun 1–2, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

    Day 10. On the outskirts of Estella, we found an "old world" blacksmith and his forge. Truly a master artisan, the blacksmith creates all manner of ironwork. From the humble pilgrim shell necklaces to the intricate Spanish Fighting Bulls it was amazing.
    One of the landmarks of the Camino Frances is the Irache Wine Fountain. The bodega gifts 100 liters of wine to pilgrims everyday, however, by the time we arrived the wine was gone. We left both sad and thirsty.
    Before the day ended, we hiked sixteen miles through beautiful, but unending landscapes beside mountains and across flat plains.
    After arriving in Los Arcos, we showered, did laundry, and found food for our famished bodies. As has become our custom, we toured the gorgeous Santa Maria Cathedral for which words have little ability to do justice. Every wall was intricately painted, the alterpiece breathtaking, the cielings were stunning, and the cloister flawless.
    We will be taking it easier for the next few days.    Read more

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    Los Arcos - Logrono

    Jun 2–3, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Day 11. There is a saying that "The Camino provides." It gives you what you need, not what you want. Today we rode a bus from Los Arcos to Logroño due to injuries sustained on the way. The camino provided both the bus and the wisdom to get on it. Not every lesson needs to be learned through needless suffering.
    Logroño is the first large city we've entered since leaving Pamplona. It's streets were bustling with activity, and at the Cathedral of Santa Maria de la Redona a parade honoring the Sacred Heart of Jesus was just starting when we arrived.
    The plaza before the cathedral was packed as parishoners joined in the celebration. Inside the church, the beautiful music of a pipe organ echoed.
    We stayed at the municipal albergue where our bathrooms were on different floors which made midnight bathroom trips especially intersting for Steve. However, it did have toilet seats so it was rated as good in our book.    Read more

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    Logroño - Navarrete

    Jun 3–4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    Day 12. We walked nine miles through the Parque de la Grajera into Navarette. In the park, Spaniards fished from the bank of the lake right along the Camino while families of ducks paddles across the smooth water. The park gave way to rows of grape vines in one of the many vineyards of the La Rioja region of Spain.
    After reaching Navarette, we checked into the Albergue Buen Camino then toured the stunning, 16th century church which was complete with it's own small botafumiero and beautiful alterpiece. We cooked a delicious, spaghetti dinner for ourselves in the albergue kitchen, and shared a bottle of vino tinto.
    The Spanish love their parks and churches, and both are growing more beautiful as we travel along the Camino.    Read more

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    Navarrete - Najera

    June 4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    Day 13. In Najera, we visited a 11th century monastery and a museum. The monastery was amazing and was built into the side of a mountain and had a cave where a wooden carving of Mary or "The Virgin of the Cave", the oldest in Europe, was placed. The statue of Mary was built over a thousand years ago. There was also multiple tombs and sarcophagus’ holding the remains of nobility, and knights.Read more

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    Najera - Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    Jun 4–5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    Day 14. Santo Domingo de la Calzada, and one of the best stories along the Camino de Santiago.
    The story goes that in the 14th century, a German 18-year-old named Hugonell, from Xanten, goes on pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela with his parents. A Spanish girl at the hostel where they were staying makes sexual advances toward Hugonell; Hugonell rejects her advances. Angry at this, the girl hides a silver cup in the German's bag and then informs the authorities that the youth had taken it. Hugonell is sentenced to the gallows, in accordance with the laws of Alfonso X of Castile.
    The parents sadly decide to examine their son's body, still hanging on the gallows, but suddenly hear his voice –he tells them that Saint Dominic has saved his life. His parents quickly make their way to see the magistrate and tell him of the miracle.
    The magistrate, who is at the time eating dinner, remarks: "Your son is as alive as this rooster and chicken that I was feasting on before you interrupted me." And in that moment, the two birds jump from the plate and begin to sing and crow happily.
    The rumored descendants of the two miracle chickens are housed in the Cathedral and also the municipal albergue. It is said that if the albergue chickens "cluck" at you that you will return to Santo Domingo, and they clucked at both of us.
    The cathedral in Santo Domingo is the only church to have live stock in it.    Read more

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    Belarado

    Jun 5–6, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Days 15-16. We forgot to post on day 15, but it was a short day where we stayed in a ghost town called Redicilla del Camino. It was a different Camino day in which our hospitaleros abandoned us and no food was to be found. However, the Camino provides, and an ice cream truck saved the day by selling us ice cream, potato chips, and beer. The hospitolero returned to prepare our meal which was done in haste and not very good.

    On day 16, the hike to Belerado was beautiful with several little villages sprinkled along the way. We got some encouragement from pilgrims that have walked before by way of grafatti, but the wisest of them was from St. Preaux to “Loose your anger and never go to lost property office.”
    We walked the path that Martin Sheen and Emilio Estevez walked in the movie "The Way" and saw their hand and foot prints. The town of Belerado has a lot of beautiful murals, but also a lot of gnats. We spent the night in a great little Alburge called Cuatro Cantones. We had dinner with a sweet couple from Austria, and visited with an Irish couple biking to Santiago.    Read more

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    Burgos Part 1

    Jun 7–8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Day 17-18. We arrived in Burgos and spent a rest day. On our first night we stayed on the fourth floor of the Hostal Rimbombin which provided a beautiful view of the busy street below. Since it wasn't a pilgrim albergue, it operated more like a hotel with front desk clerk, round the clock access, and general apathy to the guests. We toured the gorgeous Cathedral of Burgos where El Cid is buried underneath a starlight dome, and walked the city streets. The city was quiet with many places closed due to a large festival a few miles away. Dinner was pizza and beer on the promenade.Read more

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    Burgos part 2

    Jun 7–8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    We stayed at the municipal albergue today which is very nice and wonderfully located right behind the cathedral. We spent the day between walking the city, touring the Museum of Evolution, and visiting bars between rain storms. We ate a wonderful meal where we ran into the Irish biking couple again, and stopped for churros in the cathedral plaza.Read more

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    Burgos - Rabé de las Calazades

    Jun 9–10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Day 19. Burgos to Rabe de las Calzadas. A ten mile day and a beautiful walk. We were unable to find any open churches which was rare, because they were either closed or no longer in use. However, we did attend vespers with the nuns of "The Daughters of Charity" convent. All elderly women who were devout in their belief, and espoused the kindness we should all embrace.
    The town had one mural that we caught our eye. It featured Albert Einstein, Nelson Mandela, and Ben Kinglsey. Ostensibly, the artist looked up images of Mahatma Gandhi, and selected the one of Ben Kingsley from the 1984 movie in error. We still chuckle at the mistake.    Read more

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    Hontanas & Castro Jeriz

    June 10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Day 20 -22. After leaving Rabé de las Calazades, we walked toward the Albegue at San Bol. During the morning walk, we passed fields of beautiful poppies blowing in the wind. A bit of bad luck just before noon threated the remainder of the Camino when a bad, ankle injury occured crossing a muddy ditch.
    We made it to San Bol, however, they were unable to provide us a bed. So, we journeyed onward for another five kilometers and arrived at the lovely, roadside albergue of Fuentes Sidres located in the middle of nowhere. The flat land around the albergue granted a beautiful, unobstructed view to the horizon.
    We woke up early the next morning to watch the sunrise and then walked into Hontanas to find breakfast. The injury from the day before forced us to take a taxi into Castrojeriz where we would spend two days hoping for the injury to heal.
    In Castrojeriz, we stayed in the Albergue Ultreia. The owners were a lovely, older couple who were extremely kind to us. They provided our meals, drinks, and took care of our laundry. After dinner, the husband showed us how the old, grape press worked and took us underneath the albergue into the remains of the old bodega. Originally, the bodega's tunnels connected with several points across the town. A distance of several hundred meters. He completed the tour with a sampling of very old wine.    Read more

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    Castrojeriz - Boadilla del Camino

    Jun 13–14, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    Day 23. The day started with us walking the long streets to get out of Castrojeriz, crossing a mountain, and sharing the road with one of the most memorable people we encountered on the Camino. La senora loca del gato, "The Crazy Cat Lady", who walked the camino with a kitten in a waist bag, sometimes her shoulders and occasionally on a leash. Judging by actions, the kitten didn't seem to be enjoying his pilgrimage.
    We arrived in Itero de la Vega where a local helped us find a lost backpack. He was kind enough to drive us back to get the backpack which was delivered some miles behind us. He was very kind and would accept no reward for his generosity.
    We finished the day's walk by running into the town of Boadilla del Camino.
    In hindsight, the run was a bad idea. The evening meal was our last communal meal of the Camino. We shared it with people from Texas, Japan England, Brazil, and Israel.    Read more

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    León Part 1

    Jun 15–17, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F

    Day 24-25. The run into Boadilla del Camino was a bad idea indeed. The following morning the injury from a few days before removed the ability to walk. We travelled by car to Frómista, onward to Palencia by train, and then a bullet train into Leon. The train travelled around 200 miles per hour which reduced the trip from Palencia to Leon to around 25 minutes.
    The next two days were spent in Leon hoping for the injury to heal. We took the time to tour the beautiful cathedral of Leon, and enjoy the local food.    Read more

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