• Section 4: Tararua Ranges

    29. december 2025, New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    D tararua ranges si bitz nördlich vo Wellington und die section is beschribe als eini vo de schwirigste uf dr nordinsle, wills scho zimlich alpin und wild isch und s wätter sehr schnäll cha wächsle. Wäge däm hämer au für 6-7 täg ässe packt und im vorus güebt mitem garmin inreach grätli wätterbricht z empfange. Mit däm wüsse und bitz nervosität im buuch simer am 28. Dez vo Levin a trail head gstöpplet und bi wunderschönem wätter losgluffe. Mir hei scho gwüsst, dass am 30. Dez bitz räge wird cho und mir dr teil übere grat und pass guet müese verwütsche.

    Am erste tag hämer sicher mol welle die 900 höhemeter zu dr erste hütte ufstiige und wenns längt no bis zu dr zweite hütte witer go. Nachem lange ufstiig dure dichte wald und schlamm und wägem wunderschöne usblick vo dr erste hütte (waiopehu hut) hämer eus entschide, dört z übernachte. Bim wätter checke am obe, hämer denn gmerkt, dass e starke wind scho am zweite tag öpe am 5i zobe wird starte und dases e wind warnig für idr nacht vom 29. und dure tag vom 30. gmäldet isch. Wäge däm hämer dr wecker uf die 5i gstellt zum vill vom tag zha.

    Scho mit bitzli wind, aber sunnigem wätter, simer am zweite tag über 3 gipfel gstiige mit wunderschönem usblick uf d Tararuas. Dr wäg isch no bitz schwiriger worde, mit vill schlamm und steile uf und abstiig mit chlättere über wurzle und stei. Scho gli het dr wind azoge und es het bitz angst gmacht. Wäge däm hämer afo plän diskutiere. Mir hei denn entschide bi dr zweite hütte mol z luege wie dr sturm sich entwicklet. Und vorallem e sehr usgsetzti stell nach dr zweite hütte nid im sturm z wooge. Das isch für eus au e guete entscheid gsi - dr sturm isch immer stärker worde (ca. 150 kmh wind). Idr nacht het die ganzi hütte grüttlet und am morge isch no es fänster usegheit.

    Dr sturmmorge hämer idr hütte verbrocht und überlegt wasmer wei mache. Dr wätterbricht het gmäldet dases abem spötere nomitag guet wird, aber dases die nöchste täg immer widr rägnet und windet. Mir het das füre grat und füre pass wo die nöchste tag agstande wäre zfescht angst gmacht und mir hei eus entschide umzchehre und dr glich wäg widr abe zgo - dr vorteil isch au dasmer so silvester idr zivilisation chöne verbringe. Ufem rückwäg hämer s usmass vom sturm gseh. Villi umgheiti bäum und äst ufem wäg.

    Währendem sturm abwarte idr hütte si insgesamt 6 te araroa wanderer cho pause mache und si im sturm witer. I ha e bitz e krise gha öbi denn tough gnue bi zum überhaupt e section uf dr südinsle zschaffe, weni so vill weniger schaff wie die andere. Im nochhinein dänki dass d TA wanderer au bitz crazy si und ich die wanderige au möcht gniesse und nid möcht risike igo und wägem wätter gar nüd vo dr landschafft gseh.

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    The Tararua Ranges are located just north of Wellington, and this section is described as one of the most challenging on the North Island. It’s already quite alpine and wild, and the weather can change very quickly. Because of that, we packed food for six to seven days and practiced in advance how to receive weather forecasts using our Garmin inReach device. With that knowledge — and a bit of nervous excitement — we hitchhiked from Levin to the trailhead on December 28 and set off in beautiful weather. We already knew that some rain was expected on December 30, and that we would need to time the ridge and pass sections carefully.

    On the first day, our goal was at least to climb the 900 meters of elevation gain up to the first hut, and if possible continue on to the second hut. After the long ascent through dense forest and mud — and tempted by the stunning view from the first hut (Waiopehu Hut) — we decided to stay there for the night. When we checked the weather forecast in the evening, we realized that strong winds were expected to start around 5 p.m. on the second day, with a wind warning in place for the night of the 29th and throughout the 30th. Because of that, we set our alarm for 5 a.m. to make the most of the day.

    With some wind already but sunny skies, we climbed three peaks on the second day, enjoying beautiful views across the Tararuas. The trail became even more demanding, with lots of mud and steep ascents and descents, including scrambling over roots and rocks. Before long, the wind picked up significantly, which started to feel quite intimidating. That led us to discuss our options. We decided to reassess the situation once we reached the second hut, especially since there was a very exposed section just beyond it that we didn’t want to attempt in storm conditions. That turned out to be a very good decision — the storm intensified dramatically, with winds of around 150 km/h. During the night, the entire hut shook, and by morning one of the windows had blown out.

    We spent the stormy morning inside the hut, thinking about what to do next. The forecast predicted improving conditions later in the afternoon, but also ongoing rain and wind over the following days. The idea of tackling the ridge and pass in those conditions felt too risky for us, so we decided to turn around and hike back the same way we had come. One upside was that this meant we could spend New Year’s Eve back in civilization. On the way down, we could really see the impact of the storm — many fallen trees and branches were scattered across the trail.

    While waiting out the storm in the hut, a total of six Te Araroa hikers stopped by for a break and then continued on despite the conditions. I had a bit of a crisis, wondering whether I was tough enough to even manage a section on the South Island if I was turning back while others pushed on. In hindsight, I think TA hikers are a little bit crazy — and that I want to enjoy the hikes, not take unnecessary risks, and not miss out on the landscape just because of bad weather.
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